plingboot
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About plingboot
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Programming Technic Control+ hub
plingboot replied to plingboot's topic in LEGO Mindstorms and Robotics
BBC basic circa 1985 -
I just wondered whether anyone can point me in the direction of the correct lego iOS app to use for programming the Control+ hub? I bought one (along with motors) assuming it could be programmed in a similar way to the Boost Hub - as I want to use it as part of a GBC build. However, the PoweredUp app will only connect if the hub is set-up (motors connected) for the 4x4 model - and even then I'm unable to access any kind of programming functions. Slightly worried that I've wasted my money. Any help or pointers would be appreciated.
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Tried asking him direct without any luck unfortunately.
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Does anyone know if there is a specific lego (or other) part to label pneumatic hoses - making hoses in a complex set-up more easy to track? I've seen them on things like the quanix PBF and other similar MOCs, but not been able to track them down.
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Thanks. I like the switch from bricks to liftarms - looks much better.
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Thanks, when you get around to it could you also show some detail pics of your updated marble run too? Which motorbike wheel did you use for that build? If it's easier to share via email drop me a pm. Thanks
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I'm blindly optimistic that it'll function perfectly - given that I've had endless problems with my Invisible lift and not found the need to smash it to pieces, I can't believe this will be any more frustrating! :-)
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Well this is awkward… a couple of days ago I placed a whole bunch of orders for parts to build the rotary dumper 😕 if I’d have seen the above I may have thought twice about it.
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@Berthil could you post some detail pics of the top exit ramp modifications you made to your invisible lift? I'd like to do this to my build. Thanks :-)
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The one thing I found with the v2 train module is that the switch needs to be the version without the friction detents. When I first built the motor module I couldn't understand why the reverse mechanism wouldn't work and it was only by chance that when I was fiddling around with a spare switch that I noticed it moved smoothly - unlike the one I'd put in the build. With the switch swapped it worked flawlessly.
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if you [control]+[click] on the application you'll get an alert window which allows you to override that problem and [open] the app. Once you've done this it should open normally from then on.
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You probably need to download Bricksmith - the complete v3 + LDraw install rather than just the v3 app. Once this is installed you'll be able to open the instruction files. Once you have a file open you can do a piece count from the Tools menu - which can be exported as a .txt file - pity it can't export a bricklink .bsx file though.
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I did some more work on the Invisible Lift this weekend. First job was to move the power module - the XL motor now lives under the cam/lever mechanism on the right hand side. I carefully lubed everything with WD40 Specialist Dry PTFE lube - this make a HUGE difference everything runs much more smoothly. The change also improves the aesthetics of the feed section and means a shorter feed ramp. I have a separate motor powering the feed stepper which is now housed under the hopper. It almost works correctly now. I reset all the timing - using The Rebrickers' youtube video as reference. I still have a couple of antennas that refuse to align correctly, but the hand crank means I can see much more clearly whats going as the mechanism moves. I've posted more high res pics to my Bricksafe page HERE hope they're of interest to someone.
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I've been sword fighting with my invisible lift - when I first completed it everything worked well, but it simply refuses to hold the balls correctly now. grrrrrr Looks like I'll have to take it apart and rebuild it again… Anyway, I've also been doing some work on a waterfall exit. I've uploaded a pic to BRICKSAFE and will upload more later. Balls are dropped onto a short 'tube ramp', they then run down a 'liftarm ramp' before dropping into the waterfall chute zig zag. When 7 balls are in there it tips them out. The liftarm chute attaches at two points - one of the towers and the base. I wanted it to look as elegant as possible.