AussieJimbo

Eurobricks Knights
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About AussieJimbo

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  1. Narrow gauge straights and cross track

    Having played with narrow gauge before it's been great to see this discussion and the rapid prototyping of new solutions. I have made layouts with the LEGO narrow gauge curves and LEGO single straight rail pieces to make up the straights. It's not all that difficult using jumper plates to line up the different rail types but the new 3D parts I've seen here make it so easy. My preferred dual gauge solution would be a 3 rail system implemented on top of standard LEGO curves, with a custom curved rail piece with spacings for the studs so you can just place them on top of the LEGO sleepers, 2 studs in from the outer curve. You need 2 variants; one for when the 3rd rail is close to the outside rail and one where it's close to the inner rail. ie. .(.(..(. and .).)..). LEGO already has us sorted with the single straight rail piece for straights/ ie. .|.|..|. so you'd use the same square ended rail for the curve. These two custom curve piece would be enough to get started running narrow gauge trains with better radius than the standard narrow curves. However all this would depend on being able to produce the custom pieces with adequate clutch power. Is that achievable with the current 3D printing technology? Switches/points of course are a challenge and would probably require a completely custom piece. Looks like a great solution. This is where the 3 rail dual gauge gets tricky. You need two variations of the left hand switch to make the connection you've shown on the right. So four variations of the switch to cover all eventualities. Then again, maybe that's not such an issue when you are printing them one at a time anyway.
  2. MOC: "Tin Turtle" WW1 Trench Railway Loco

    Great little loco, Greg. > A little experiment in creating a track for it (and my other narrow gauge engines) to use. Unfortunately you may be set for disappointment. I've tried the same trick of putting two standard sets of straight track next to each other, using the "outside" of the standard rails as the "inside" of the narrow gauge track. Sadly it doesn't quite work despite first impressions. When I tried it, the resulting gauge was just a few millimeters too narrow and resulted in minor binding on the flanges of railway wheels. I would be interested to know if your experience differs. :classic:
  3. Maersk Train in different colours

    Hi ScottNick, thanks for linking to my variant. It's currently resting in a storage unit 10,000 miles away so it's nice to see it again. I'm missing my Lego trains. I noticed that the links to the instructions in my old post don't work any more but it looks like you can pick them up from here if you need them: http://lego.brickins...19/Maersk_Train I like your yellow variant too, hope you get a chance to build it, it's an enjoyable build and a great loco to haul trains with. Go the dual motors if you can, you won't regret it :classic:
  4. [MOC] Self guided vehicles based on Faller system

    Great job, looks like it works very well. The buses look really nice too. PS: On a side note, I was very impressed by the use of the Faller System that augments the massive model railway layouts at Minatur Wunderland in Hamburg. So glad I had to opportunity to visit a few months back, it's a brilliant attraction. Highly recommended. :classic:
  5. Creative track storage pin uses

    Handrails on my yellow Maersk loco. :classic:
  6. Arch Suspension Bridge

    Great stuff, legoman666. Very creative and original design. Clearly a very effective structure as I can barely see any deformation when the HE runs across it. I like your freight train and rolling stock too. :classic:
  7. Should we have a Suffolk brick show?

    I'd go but couldn't contribute anything. (Almost) All my Lego is in a storage unit in Canberra. My UK Lego collection consists of the Parisian Restaurant, the Ghostbusters set (awaiting assembly), the yellow racing car creator set (ditto), a brick calendar, a set of Simpsons minifigs, the panda bear minifig from the Movie series, a balloon seller polybag and a handful of other random minifigs. I almost bought a yellow cargo train mega pack when I was in Amsterdam, which was great value at 169 Euro but had other cities to visit and didn't want to be lugging a massive box of Lego around with me. :classic:
  8. Another hello from Ipswich, UK. Good luck with the event. :classic:
  9. Top job, Doc_Brown. Instantly recognisable as a GTHO. So many cool details and it looks like the Power Functions and gearing work really well. Very cool rendition of an Aussie classic. :classic:
  10. Australian NR class =The Ghan=

    Great work, Adamskii. The loco looks excellent and is really set off by the decals. I like your other locos too. Welcome to EB. :classic:
  11. MOD (WIP): Small Restaurant 10218

    Thanks everyone. > Perfect to be near the pet shop Yeah, it looks really nice next to the standard Pet Shop. Best set up with the Pet Shop on the left, otherwise the signs read "Eats" - "Pets" which is a bit dodgy. :classic:
  12. WIP: Streamline Moderne Building

    Thanks L@go. I'm really pleased with the spire too. It captures the skyscaper motif which is a common feature in Streamline Moderne. Cheers LT and timmyc. All in storage now. I'm heading to the UK after Xmas so my main collection will be half a world away. Thanks SlavoBrick and LEGO Family. The stairs are just a rough placeholder to show where they should be, I ran out of time to build a set of stairs in keeping with the rest of the building. Cheers, eurotrash. Cheers laka. Thanks again everyone for your feedback. :classic:
  13. MOD: "Big J" Orange Van and other Goods Wagons

    Thanks LT. Cheers, zephyr.
  14. MOC: Modalohr Intermodal System

    Thanks everyone for the great feeback. Cheers, it's an enjoyable challenge. Finding a way to both raise the ramp and set the levers in one motion was very satisfying. :classic:
  15. MOD: Red Motorised Tram 8404

    Cheers, Kintobor. Thanks, Hrw-Amen. The upside down battery was crucial to motorising the tram. I was initially stumped because the pin on the motor was in the way of an efficient fit but then realised this gave me the space for the connector and cables if I simply flipped it upside down. :classic: