Didumos69

42083 Bugatti Chiron - MODs and Improvements

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On 12/26/2018 at 9:02 AM, nerdsforprez said:

The holidays have allowed me time to actually build and tinker.  As I was building my 42083.... I noticed something.  Late to the party - yes - but I do not think this has been discussed yet.  Apologies if it has.  A quick search of "air brake" on this thread did not yield anything I am alluding to. 

Anyways, the rear spoiler deploys with no problem with the key. But as mentioned in the original 42083 thread, in the real car, it also elevates into a ~45 degree angle to serve as an air brake.  Even the full-size Lego Bugatti got this right. 

However, 42083 does not.  Uses friction 3L pins on step 508 that hinders the whole process.  Check out this little video to see the correction. 

 

 

@nerdsforprez, great Idea!

In Episode 6 oft the Bugatti Chiron podcasts LEGO designer Markus Kossmann tells why he used friction pins: to combine two motion sequences (lifting and tilting the spoiler) with one technic axle for the speed key. But your solution is still a worthy improvement. By just replacing 2 friction pins by frictionless pins there still remain some friction pins in the spoiler mechanics. In the result Markus' idea still works, but with less friction.

I tried it today and it works smoothly, but with one disadvantage: With less friction the spoiler may tilt to ~90° and when returning the spoiler from this position to idle, it may block with the body frame and not return to idle position. But I found an easy solution to fix that issue by adding two ball pins to the dark blue 3x5 liftarms. The ball pins give a tighter bearing to the liftarms and prevent the spoiler to tilt ~90° so it doesn't block anymore.  

640x640.jpg

Now the air brake MOD works excellent!

 

On 12/26/2018 at 9:31 AM, Didumos69 said:

Excellent. @jb70, will you add this to the pimped up version?

Yes, I will do this soon!

Edited by jb70

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I tried to change the body of the bugatti chiron, let me know if the experiment was successful for you, link: -removed-
Edited by Milan
Removed questionable link.

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15 hours ago, fdfs said:

I tried to change the body of the bugatti chiron, let me know if the experiment was successful for you, link: 

Very nice mods! I have to ask though: how did you obtain those red wheel arches?

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15 hours ago, fdfs said:

I tried to change the body of the bugatti chiron, let me know if the experiment was successful for you, link:

Sorry to say but it really looks like the L**in version...

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Surely it is not the Lego version.. the rims are also "not Lego".

It looks the red panels have a differend shade of color, maybe this is the difference between original and fake parts...

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Pimp up my Bugatti v1.3 has been released and includes the air brake fix from @nerdsforprez. Thankx for your contribution!

For those who have already build the Bugatti, these changes can easily be made afterwards:

  • unmount the grey bumper parts that are mounted on page 262 step 51
  • unmount the black panels that are mounted an page 260 step 49 by pulling out the grey pins from page 258 step 48
  • add the black ball pins from page 208 step 21
  • exchange the 2 blue long pins by 2 tan frictionless long pins like on page 203 step 7
  • remount everything and you are finished.

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On 1/3/2019 at 1:37 PM, jb70 said:

@nerdsforprez, great Idea!

In Episode 6 oft the Bugatti Chiron podcasts LEGO designer Markus Kossmann tells why he used friction pins: to combine two motion sequences (lifting and tilting the spoiler) with one technic axle for the speed key. But your solution is still a worthy improvement. By just replacing 2 friction pins by frictionless pins there still remain some friction pins in the spoiler mechanics. In the result Markus' idea still works, but with less friction.

I tried it today and it works smoothly, but with one disadvantage: With less friction the spoiler may tilt to ~90° and when returning the spoiler from this position to idle, it may block with the body frame and not return to idle position. But I found an easy solution to fix that issue by adding two ball pins to the dark blue 3x5 liftarms. The ball pins give a tighter bearing to the liftarms and prevent the spoiler to tilt ~90° so it doesn't block anymore.  

640x640.jpg

Now the air brake MOD works excellent!

 

Yes, I will do this soon!

Great information.... I had not listened to the podcast so thanks.  I actually think this is very interesting then, and I now am beginning to wonder if the variability in other's experience with this modification is due to variation in the tolerances of ABS or perhaps slight variations in how folks are building it.  As can be seen in comments here, but also on the youtube vid, some didn't have problems with the original but some did (like me).  But also, when I did the modification it did return to the idle position perfectly (see vid) but yours did not.  I guess I am not entirely surprised by this.  Seems like folks had a similar issue with the front suspension.  Some folks reporting problems with it returning to position after compression with some folks not reporting such problems.....

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14 hours ago, nerdsforprez said:

Some folks reporting problems with it returning to position after compression with some folks not reporting such problems.....

i can confirm, that there is a huge difference between the out-of-the-box suspension and the MODed one by Didomous/jb70: the former one doesn't react the latter one performs very well... or with other words: the former one is a complete misdesign...

IMHO the Retail bugatti is a full pitfall cause of its 0% playability cause of the actually not working suspension and the in fact unsteerabilty - even the padels for the gearbox are quite unaccessible for mens hands --> so i can not praise enough the "pimp my bugatti" package of @jb70, because it preserves 100% the design and looks but adds 1000% usability cause of its working suspension and its two HoGs, one for steering, one for gear-switching (the latter one AKA as gear-indicator) - without these MODs the bugatti is just a pretty bunch of well packed bricks, panels and beams, nothing more - just useful for a showcase or as parts pack...

 

just my 2 ct

Edited by Kumbbl

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I’m new to the forum and this kind of discussions, so first of all sorry if I make dumb questions or do not use the correct names for the parts.

I’m building the Bugatti, I just finished the marriage, and I’m puzzled with one thing. I have gone through all your messages of the present topic without figuring out the answer (by the way, awesome discussion and looking forward to try out the pimp your Bugatti version). When the DNR is in reverse, the wheels work, move the engine, and move the gearbox. Even shifting the gears works, and I can see the blue wheel of the DNR change it’s speed according to the gears. And everything with a reasonable friction.

But when I change the DNR to D the problems start. The friction grows so much that everything gets stacked (like a spring effect) and at one point the beige wheels of one of the differentials jump out due to the acting force. I just can’t find an explanation for this behavior taking into account that in the reverse position of the DNR all elements are moving as well and with a reasonable friction.

Any ideas are welcomed. I’m under pressure as my kids want to build further the car, but I want to iron out this issue first :-D.

 

Edited by Miguel76

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Hi everyone, newbie alert :) I have finally built my new Chiron (amazing!), but only after that i saw this modding and i really see that it improves the original design a lot. So i ordered the extra bricks and now i have a question for all of you: What is the best strategy to apply all the improvements? Should i disassemble the whole car and start from scratch using the pimp instructions? Would be possible to have a "whats changed" instructions version, comparing the original and highlighting only the parts from the original instructions that changed? 

Thank you all but definitely thank you @jb70 for the amazing work!!

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3 hours ago, ltrindade said:

Hi everyone, newbie alert :) I have finally built my new Chiron (amazing!), but only after that i saw this modding and i really see that it improves the original design a lot. So i ordered the extra bricks and now i have a question for all of you: What is the best strategy to apply all the improvements? Should i disassemble the whole car and start from scratch using the pimp instructions? Would be possible to have a "whats changed" instructions version, comparing the original and highlighting only the parts from the original instructions that changed? 

Thank you all but definitely thank you @jb70 for the amazing work!!

I am very curious of this too.

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8 hours ago, ltrindade said:

What is the best strategy to apply all the improvements? Should i disassemble the whole car and start from scratch using the pimp instructions? Would be possible to have a "whats changed" instructions version, comparing the original and highlighting only the parts from the original instructions that changed? 

Welcome to Eurobricks!

My suggestion: Dissassemble completely, build the Pimpy up my Bugatti version. Disassemble again, rebuild the original, compare the experience, rebuild the Pimp up version. Enjoy!

You will see that the Pimp up instructions are more challenging and therefore more interesting because they typically contain more bricks per image and often you have to puzzle a bit to see where each brick has to go.

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Last weekend with my son have rebuilt original Porsche 42056 (with Didumos errata) to Pimping up version, using instruction from jb70 . Thank You very much jb70.

I disassembled Porshe, but not fully, remaining big blocks. For example, covers, roof, arcks, spoiler, seats, suspensions etc remained assembled.

Removable body (200 pages) we have assembled very quickly, because we didn't disassemble set fully.

Сhassis took more time, because of big changes in front suspension and steering.

Bugatty (after buy) we will build the same way. :)

Edited by ifilin

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On ‎7‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 6:45 AM, LegoHoops said:

 

43460461451_3c6bde4c4d_z.jpg

Chiron rear calipers are at 45 degrees. 

 

So glad I found this forum, I'm amazed at what you guys can do!

The 45 degree calipers look great but how exactly have you done it? I know you've used the piece with 2 holes and a 45 degree arm but can you explain how that's attached to the suspension arms please?

Thanks.

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3 minutes ago, Buzzfox said:

So glad I found this forum, I'm amazed at what you guys can do!

The 45 degree calipers look great but how exactly have you done it? I know you've used the piece with 2 holes and a 45 degree arm but can you explain how that's attached to the suspension arms please?

Thanks.

Sad, you should read the comments after it. I have write a comment about this in page 15 and show how to do it

Edited by SamuelYsc
Type

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25 minutes ago, SamuelYsc said:

Sad, you should read the comments after it. I have write a comment about this in page 15 and show how to do it

Yes I did see that and it looks good but looks more complicated than @LegoHoops's solution. It looks like yours will need a rear end strip down to change the blue pins (the ones holding the hub on) to axles.

The other solution seems to keep the blue pins and might be easier to do. I'm very new to all this so I'm looking for the simplest way!

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On 7/28/2018 at 11:11 PM, LegoHoops said:

Gaps in the front wheel arches closed up too, looks better than filling the space up.

@LegoHoops - Hi, hope you don't mind me asking, but please could you describe and/or post a photo showing how you closed the front fender gaps so cleanly?  I moved the entire inside fender units 1L nearer to the outer fenders, but my solution doesn't look as neat as yours, and actually still leaves a very small gap at the back of the fenders.  I think I can see a small spanner thing clasping the inner fenders and holding them outwards, but it isn't clear to me.  I'm moving towards the end of my build now and am trying to implement many of the Mods in these pages, this is one I haven't quite been able to figure out!

Thanks in advance.

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@jb70 I am close to completing the Pimp my Bugatti build - firstly, thank you for all of your hard work and generosity in providing the instructions.  I have a question - the rear wheels have a lot of play in them, e.g. when I pick up the car they hang down too far, and move around so much that the calipers often fall off, and the car almost crab-steers.  I've included some pics below.  Is there any obvious error that I've made?  I took apart the CV connection and couldn't see any issues, but I've certainly missed something...

Thank you so much for your (and anyone else's) help solving this.

Hanging/loose rear wheels:
IMG_3773.jpg

IMG_3774.jpg

 

Rear axle connection to wheels - there is too much 'play' in and out within in the circled area, meaning the wheels hang loose and shift in and out at odd angles:

IMG_3776.jpg

 

Edited by Paknaloid

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A few of you showed an interest to read more about my thoughts on the optimization process that I started a while back. But instead of starting a new topic I decided to test the waters first and write something on my own site NKubate.

In this first post I have a closer look at the rear axle of the model in which I claim that the crossbar between the suspension rods (top image) was added very late in the development process, a bit like an afterthought and why I think this is the case.

blueprint_rearsuspension_front-474x400.j

Then I explain the thoughts behind the redesign (bottom image) which is not only a stronger solution with less flex, but also improves the building process while reducing the number of parts. The only disadvantage might be that it is slightly heavier, although I haven't checked this...

Let me know if something like this is appreciated and if I should perhaps go in further details.

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@Paknaloid Looks like You didn't connect wheel hubs at all, light grey part (above red marking) and dark grey (the one with brake disc) should be pushed inside untill they click and become extremely hard to take apart using hands.

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