Narrower wheelbase?

[aol000xw]

Hello, I suck at LDD but... given something like this is it possible to make it 2 studs narrower?

1 stud seems possible using half width beams instead of the beam frame for the differential. Otherwise I could mount somehow those ball cup supports 1 stud closer each, but then the cardan ball with the universal joint needs to be 1 stud shorter right?

Whatever, can't figure this out, the aim is to keep indepent suspension, differential and 3 pin hubs while making it 2 studs narrower.

Edited August 22, 2013 by aol000xw

[Alasdair Ryan]

You have four options....

1) Use the new steering elements that where in the F1 car.

2) Make your own steering frames and wheel hubs using connectors and beams.

3) use Efferman's design below.

4) use all of the above.

Edited August 22, 2013 by Alasdair Ryan

[efferman]

[Lipko]

Yes, you can. Use CV joints on both sides on the half-axles and a 2L axle between them.

EDIT: PWNED!

Hmm, nope, those won't fit inside. Sorry

Edited August 22, 2013 by Lipko

[aol000xw]

isn't that the same?

[cgg199]

I wouldn't use those arms if I were you. I'll make an LDD file of a working design. Should I make some wheel hubs as well for you?

EDIT: This is harder than I previously thought.

EDIT 2: I'm not even sure this can be done without using some form of, incredibly inefficient, flex axle design.

Edited August 22, 2013 by cgg199

[aol000xw]

EDIT: This is harder than I previously thought.

Well that makes me feel less stupid

I want to use these.btw.

[skppo]

1 stud seems possible using half width beams instead of the beam frame for the differential.

Problem is that the diff has the middle block so you could only have half a stud of an axle sticking out of the half beam. That wont work well with the first joint in the axle. Unless you

are fine with cutting but then you should shorten the cv. I can't see this working with these parts.

Oh wait, if you use the CV joint the other way around then maybe one stud is possible.

Edit: Nope, the second cv joint makes it the same length again.

Edited August 22, 2013 by skppo

[aol000xw]

This is my best so far, and it doesnt look good.

[Ape Fight]

Hello. Yes, there is a way to reduce the track. Two that I know of anyway:

1: Switch from wishbone to swing arm suspension

Or

2: Look up 'Tyler Reid' on MOCpages, who has an ingeniously compact independent suspension design.

[aol000xw]

Hello. Yes, there is a way to reduce the track. Two that I know of anyway:

1: Switch from wishbone to swing arm suspension

Or

2: Look up 'Tyler Reid' on MOCpages, who has an ingeniously compact independent suspension design.

You are right swing arm is narrower, but as non independant suspension it gives very bad wheel contact when the suspension works so it is a last resort.

Tyler design is very nice but I don't want all the weight supported by one single axle at any point. Btw Tyler's design is this: (I can't see if there is a differential in there)

Edited August 22, 2013 by aol000xw

[nicjasno]

Or use a live axle.

[aol000xw]

Or use a live axle.

If no solution is found besides what has already discussed I'll try to fit de differential behind the rear wheel as in the previous picture and if I fail at that then i'll use a live axle. But I haven't given up yet.

Edited August 22, 2013 by aol000xw

[Junpei]

I can only see a realistic solution by modding pieces. I admit, Tyler Reid's design is ingenious, but the angular displacement of the trailing arm moving causes a lot of friction.

isn't that the same?

That isn't the same if you want it to function correctly because the u-joint version won't line up correctly without placing the a-arm 1 stud outward.

Also the one with all the gears and the two half beams won't work anyway because it's not lined up correctly.

[SNIPE]

How about this:

The diff is kind of just floating but the parts around it should stop it from wobbling much especially the gears, two more gears can be put on the diff to, top and bottom but I left them out.

Just connect the thin 3L lift-arms so that they connect into the bushes right inside next to the UV joint, if the suspension isn't too good just remove those bushes.

Here is a picture

Here is the LXF file

[AndyCW]

You can make it between two and four studs narrower by turning the differential sideways and using bevel gears at the inboard pivot point. This relocates the differential from between the wheels and moves it either forward or aft in the chassis. You could even manage 6 studs narrower, but you would need shorter control arms. v/r Andy

_{Like this, only instead of two different motors, the outputs of a differential.}

[aol000xw]

How about this:

The diff is kind of just floating but the parts around it should stop it from wobbling much especially the gears, two more gears can be put on the diff to, top and bottom but I left them out.

Just connect the thin 3L lift-arms so that they connect into the bushes right inside next to the UV joint, if the suspension isn't too good just remove those bushes.

Here is a picture

Here is the LXF file

Thanks for the LXF. Yesternight I got something like that working albeit with half width liftarms partially inmovilizing it (removing the block inside the differential or 2.5 axles are needed) but I am not completely satisfied yet. What I didn't think of was on putting gears on top and bottom, it may be worth a try.

You can make it between two and four studs narrower by turning the differential sideways and using bevel gears at the inboard pivot point. This relocates the differential from between the wheels and moves it either forward or aft in the chassis. You could even manage 6 studs narrower, but you would need shorter control arms. v/r Andy

_{Like this, only instead of two different motors, the outputs of a differential.}

Thats what I tried to accomplish with that design with all the gears. Not sure if I got enougth room for that.

[SNIPE]

Maybe get rid of the differential then it can be as short as 0L (both left and right side liftarms on one axle)