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Posted

i googled for a while now but all i can find are videos showing the results of the removal but there is no guide of how to actually do it.

can somebody help me out please? i am using the normal new PF battery boxes (as in the 4x4 crawler).

Posted (edited)

Got to 1:00

That thing needs to be shorted. Philo used a simple solder to short it, but it could also just have been a wire. It doesn't matter as long as that resistor or whatever it is is shorted.

Just beware that if you do this and then short a couple of wires to the motors (Not really possible) you will damage the batteries and they might explode.

Edited by Carsten Svendsen
Posted (edited)

@ Ximbary: Welcome to Eurobricks! On his website, Philo wrote this topic about the Lego Power Functions Battery Box, complete with picture instructions on how to access the inside: :classic:

as0.jpg

His photos below show the location of the current-limiting fuse. The first picture shows "Both sides of the PCB. On top side, from left to right, we see:

* D2, a power diode, preventing voltage reversal on PF output connector

* The PF connector

* LED D1 and series resistor R1

* PCB pads for slider switch

* Resettable fuse R2, limiting output current"

as4b.jpg

schema.gif

Edited by DLuders
Posted

thank you very much guys :)

today my buggy motors arrived and i reaaaally need to remove this overload protection thingy because my car keeps struggling after like 3 meters..

thanks again that really helped me a lot!

Posted

Performs much better,

what are the risks of the batteries exploding on the other lego parts? will it damage them?

How did you get 9v ro PF?

Posted (edited)

loool you asking how much the explosion will damage your other legos? seriously? :D

the batteries will explode (or go up on flames) if they are shorted, which means: trying to connect 2 PF battery boxes for example.. or using modified cables.. but ONLY if you modified your PF battery boxes as in the pictures above. if you dont modify them then you can do whatever you want because there is a thermal protection.

if you stick to normal lego parts then it is most unlikely that you shorten them without noticing.

btw i just did this with one of my battery boxes and the results are INSANE. this is SICK.

ive built a very basic vehicle with 1 battery box and 2 buggy motors and 1 V2 reciever. its faster than my car with 8 XL motors...

Edited by Ximbary
Posted

Performs much better,

what are the risks of the batteries exploding on the other lego parts? will it damage them?

How did you get 9v ro PF?

once my custom battery's open contacts pinched metal from a shock absorber in my drawer, and melted the shock absorber's plastic completely, good thing I noticed the smell before there was any more damage or fire *oh2* but now we charge it through a plug and contacts are covered :thumbup:
Posted (edited)

i dont have a working camera right now, this is all i can provide at this point:

as4ba.jpg

all you have to do is to connect the 2 metal ends of this HL5L thingy as in this picture.

i have never done solding before but i got it done with an extremely cheap solding gun (or whatever its called) on 4 battery boxes without fails within half an hour. its really a piece of cake.. but you have to take care that the solding is done rather thin or you will not be able to push the button of the battery box towards the right position anymore.. :D

Edited by Ximbary
Posted

Chances of exploding batteries are next to nothing, especially if you use your modified BB with normal motors and recievers. It will just drain your batteries faster, that's it.

Posted (edited)

Not how much, if it will or wont

This should be useful for my f1 car as I want it to be fast and im trying to make it light by using unnessesary fixings if there is another one tht requires les parts.

Edited by SNIPE
  • 2 months later...

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