Help attaching UV joints, steering spingle and steering arms

[SNIPE]

Hi,

I decided to rebuild my project a little because when i compressed the suspention the steering spingle would not have stayed attached to the wishbones, or got Stuck at a point so instead I decided to use a dual pivot steering assembl so that the flat surface of the tire can stay as fullly contacted to the road as possible, this measn that the top and bottom of the wishbone pivots so that the wheel does not tilt to an angle like if there was only one pivot.

The project is basically a car that can quickly and smoovley transpose betweenbeing upside down and right side up, this menas that the wheels and tires are taller than the cars body to accomodate that function.

The way the car transposes between that is:

A the car is driving forward on a surface to drive the car forwards.

B the car goes up a sideways slope until it gets to a point where the tires are almost about to let go grip wise

C the power of the engines is cut off until

D the car is upside down and the tilt switch is engadged

E then the engines go in reverce which drives the car forwards otherwise if the engine spin was not reverced the car would be going backwards.

The wheels cannot land on their sides (which would be their 'face') because there is nubs on the wheels that prevent that.

The problem is that the mounting rings are close together so there is not much space for the univercal joints to move around

On the old model the wheel hubs/spindles were not really fixed down just barricaged which meant that they could not only tily but move sideways slightly.

These hubs/spindles can only tilt like normal.

Here is an image of the new desighn:

Here is the LDD file, the rear car assembly and the old front assembly is still in the model as well as the new front assembly.

http://www.brickshel...ollcage_car.lxf

I also Need something to attach to the steering arms that is either part of the spindle or an additional part with the spindle.

where the axles stick out of the rectangular plates is for the rotating axle hole of this part:

Edited November 26, 2011 by SNIPE

[DLuders]

@ SNIPE: Would you consider adapting Crowkillers' "All-Wheel-Drive Suspension designs that I am working on with the new parts. Only 23 Studs Wide from the tips of each steering gear. Also has enough room for an engine to be placed in the Front or Rear between the Shock Towers." Maybe the upside-down car would be QUITE THICK to accommodate the Technic Shock Absorbers on both TOP and BOTTOM of your vehicle. You could make two FRONT suspensions to allow for steering capability no matter which way your vehicle is pointed:

You could mount the Power Functions motors using Crowkillers' design for "Studless designed Power Functions Motor Mounts for Small and XL using new technic elements"? It uses a Technic Turntable in between the two modules to allow for rotation":[/color]

[SNIPE]

I think this desighn would be too tall for the car , the wheels I am using are the tallest lego make apart from the nasty wheels from the lego 8448 supercar, these are wiser than those ones too.

also the suspention box shown in the original post is much smaller and lighter, and can work upside down as well as right side up, it has the small stroke I am looking for too.

Edited November 26, 2011 by SNIPE

[DLuders]

OK, just remove the shock-absorbing suspension pieces from Crowkillers' designs. The overall thickness of the car should still remain less than the Technic Liftarm frames' width.

Edited November 26, 2011 by DLuders

[SNIPE]

ok, sounds good but there is just one issue, how do I attach the disk brakes?

[DLuders]

Sheepo explained his Disk Brake idea a bit on his Lego Technic Supercar 2011 Chassis:

[Technyk32231]

Hi,

I decided to rebuild my project a little because when i compressed the suspention the steering spingle would not have stayed attached to the wishbones, or got Stuck at a point so instead I decided to use a dual pivot steering assembl so that the flat surface of the tire can stay as fullly contacted to the road as possible, this measn that the top and bottom of the wishbone pivots so that the wheel does not tilt to an angle like if there was only one pivot.

The project is basically a car that can quickly and smoovley transpose betweenbeing upside down and right side up, this menas that the wheels and tires are taller than the cars body to accomodate that function.

The way the car transposes betwen that is:

Y

A the car is driving forward on a surface to drive the car forwards.

B the car goes up a sideways slope until it gets to a point where the tires are almost about to let go grip wise

C the power of the engines is cut off until

D the car is upside down and the tilt switch is engadged

E then the engines go in reverce which drives the car forwards otherwise if the engine spin was not reverced the car would be going backwards.

The wheels cannot land on their sides (which would be their 'face') because there is nubs on the wheels that prevent that.

The problem is that the mounting rings are close together so there is not much space for the univercal joints to move around

On the old model the wheel hubs/spindles were not really fixed down just barricaged which meant that they could not only tily but move sideways slightly.

These hubs/spindles can only tilt like normal.

Here is an image of the new desighn:

Here is the LDD file, the rear car assembly and the old front assembly is still in the model as well as the new front assembly.

http://www.brickshel...ollcage_car.lxf

I also Need something to attach to the steering arms that is either part of the spindle or an additional part with the spindle.

where the axles stick out of the rectangular plates is for the rotating axle hole of this part:

Try these hubs I made. Really, they are good for almost everything.

[SNIPE]

Hi

This post is quite old and my idea in it wont really work but in the newest post I did see your reply but after trying it the problem is -

The UV joint still gets jammed by the hub since one wishbone is flipped in your design which means having one of the parts of the hub also in-between the wishbones.

However I'm 90% sure that the simplified design Alasdair sent will work when I get the new wishbones, updates on that as soon as I get that done along with most of the whole car.

Edited August 2, 2013 by SNIPE