SNIPE Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 Hi, i made a W16 engine by mounting 2 flat 8 engines on top of one another but the bottom engine is wider as the 2 blocks are spaces side apart more so the top flat 8 can sit in it to save height. (see images) i can get the top flat 8 working fine but when i tried to use either normal technic con-rods and cranks or my own custom made con-rods and cranks the thing jammed, i needed custom con-rods and cranks because the technic ones are too short for the gap between the bottom 1 blocks also im not sure but i think the custom conrods also got stuck on the outer rim of the block port/hole since the con-rods move up and down on a pivot a little. i also tried the technic ones with 2 crank shafts on the bottom but they got stopped by the obstructing top block I've tried using the different holes in the girders on the front and back of the engine but no luck so i need some ideas of Quote
DLuders Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 You can get a peek at a Lego Technic W8 engine design by Mortalswordsman on MOCpages and Brickshelf, and then make it twice as long. On Feb 8, 2011, he put it into a Lego Bugatti Veyron 1:13-scale model with Hand-of-God (HOG) steering. Maybe you can add a comment on MOCpages and he might reply to you: Quote
SNIPE Posted April 6, 2011 Author Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) sorry i forgot to upload the pics http://oi55.tinypic.com/2ngyk9k.jpg http://oi56.tinypic.com/xo4f9j.jpg Edited April 6, 2011 by SNIPE Quote
SNIPE Posted April 6, 2011 Author Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) any ideas on making some mechanisms for the bottom block (mechanism as in pistons, conrods, cranks and crankshaft) Edited April 6, 2011 by SNIPE Quote
Nequmodiva Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 I would suggest using two axles both with standard con-rods for the bottom engine. When I think about "custom con-rods" the only official technic set that comes to my mind is 8051 Motorbike. But this solution does not allow powering two opposing engine blocks. It's only for inline engines. Plus they might be too long for your construction. Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) I would suggest doing this in one of two ways: 1) Like Nequmodiva suggested, you could use two cranks on the bottom set of pistons. 2) You could build your own connecting rods similar to the 8051 motorbike, but you would have to use the "Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Toggle Joint Smooth" part. I'm not sure if this solution would fit, but it might be worth trying. Just my $.02. Edited April 6, 2011 by dhc6twinotter Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 Sorry for the double post. Snipe, sorry, I just read that you already tried the dual crank idea. I should read more before posting...lol. I would suggest building your own connecting rods. I don't think you will have a problem with the connecting rods hitting the inside edge of your cylinder. Quote
SNIPE Posted April 6, 2011 Author Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) the way i did it was simular to this exept i used the dark grey technik 3 axle with stop and the piston fitted over the stop the piston did not tilt much so ill try the new idea like on that motorbike. as the.ball joints will let the pistons tilt more which could prevent the jamming if this does not work, i will need more ideas on custom mechanisms Edited April 6, 2011 by SNIPE Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted April 7, 2011 Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) Yeah, if you use the ball joint pieces on the end, the pivot point will be slightly different than using a 3L axle with stop. You should have barely enough clearance using this method, although I'm not sure if connecting rods would clear the upper block. Edited April 7, 2011 by dhc6twinotter Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted April 7, 2011 Posted April 7, 2011 Well, after looking at your diagram again and building a mockup, my suggestion won't work. The axle connectors used on the connecting rods hit the upper block. I'm out of ideas. I don't really think there is a way of doing this without moving the upper block away from the lower piston block by 1 stud. There isn't enough clearance in the current configuration. Quote
SNIPE Posted April 7, 2011 Author Posted April 7, 2011 Well, after looking at your diagram again and building a mockup, my suggestion won't work. The axle connectors used on the connecting rods hit the upper block. I'm out of ideas. I don't really think there is a way of doing this without moving the upper block away from the lower piston block by 1 stud. There isn't enough clearance in the current configuration. ok ill make a new block Quote
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