MOC: German BR103 in original TEE colors

[Selander]

I updated my German locomotive type BR103, with a new color scheme for the lower part of body, in DkRed which is very near the prototype colors. TLG recently released element 6005 in that color, which made this rebuild possible. Three passengers wagons are also completed in the same Tan/DkRed color scheme.

A lonely alpine skier is admiring the set from above

More pictures (indoors) to follow, when I have time to set up a photo shoot.

Meanwhile, I hope you enjoy watching.

Feel free to comment.

[lightningtiger]

'Selander' those colours really make that train pop.....AWESOME work and Brick On !

[ZueriHB]

Really nice, But isn't the BR103 a Co'Co'? OK, it is hard to model in LEGO.

Anyway, looks great and sexy. Also, are these remodeled emerald night wagons?

Can't wait for more pictures.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

Beautiful MOC ...is this the same model who inspired Lego with set 7740?

I like the details and the white background in the snow ...very impressive and realistic!

[Gareth]

Nice,

On the Railbricks site I found instructions for this train and am currently in the process of constructing it, process because I have to wait for Brick link deliveries of all the various parts.

I like the colour they look the same as the pictures on Wikipedia but i'm going to keep mine the same red and yellow like on the insructions plus it would fit in with the colour scheme of the other trains.

I like the backdrop too with the alpine skier, great model.

[Selander]

Really nice, But isn't the BR103 a Co'Co'? OK, it is hard to model in LEGO.

Anyway, looks great and sexy. Also, are these remodeled emerald night wagons?

Can't wait for more pictures.

Thanks ZueriHB, yes you are right but I made a 4axle version....

Wagons are similar to Emerald night, but longer and with "brickbuilt" baseplate, (and Tan/DkRed).

I'll upload more pictures later

Nice,

On the Railbricks site I found instructions for this train and am currently in the process of constructing it, process because I have to wait for Brick link deliveries of all the various parts.

I like the colour they look the same as the pictures on Wikipedia but i'm going to keep mine the same red and yellow like on the insructions plus it would fit in with the colour scheme of the other trains.

I like the backdrop too with the alpine skier, great model.

Thanks Gareth. Instruction that you refer to are indeed for a BR103, but James Mathis version.

Mine is quite different, where the whole sides, and part of front +front windows and roof, are redesigned,

to look more like the prototype, (which was Tan/DkRed).

However if you have the yellow/red wagons of 7740, I appreciate you stay with those colors for your BR103.

[Rijkvv]

Your first version was already great, this is even better.

However, I have at least one, and maybe two ways found to improve your MOC:

-Use round buffers. For what I know, the real one has round buffers too, and lacks a plough;

-well, wouldn't a 6-axle version be better? I'm not sure how much interior space you have, but there is a 3-axle bogie/truck design (with instructions) on the site of Railbricks already. All you have to do is find space for the motor, battery box and receiver.

Edit: I now see you didn't motorize it at all. May I ask you why you made it a 4-axle version?

Edited February 27, 2011 by Richie

[LEGO Guy Bri]

Great MOC Selander Great choice of colors and neat pic of the train in the snow

[peterab]

This is a nice colour update of an already nice Moc.

I've just started ordering parts for my own Moc of this. Your old one is one of the references I've been using. One of the difficulties I haven't solved yet is the spacing of the vents along the side. I'd be very greatful of a picture or explaination of how they are held in place.

I updated my German locomotive type BR103, with a new color scheme for the lower part of body, in DkRed which is very near the prototype colors. TLG recently released element 6005 in that color, which made this rebuild possible. Three passengers wagons are also completed in the same Tan/DkRed color scheme.

A lonely alpine skier is admiring the set from above

[Selander]

Your first version was already great, this is even better.

However, I have at least one, and maybe two ways found to improve your MOC:

-Use round buffers. For what I know, the real one has round buffers too, and lacks a plough;

-well, wouldn't a 6-axle version be better? I'm not sure how much interior space you have, but there is a 3-axle bogie/truck design (with instructions) on the site of Railbricks already. All you have to do is find space for the motor, battery box and receiver.

Edit: I now see you didn't motorize it at all. May I ask you why you made it a 4-axle version?

Thanks Richie,

To achieve the realistic look I wanted, this loco is absolutely full of more or less advanced SNOT:ing, which for the sides, (with those for BR103 so characteristic rectangular “vent holes”) demands building “deep” inwards. As a consequence the loco body is absolutely full of plates and bricks, and there is no room for any PF-stuff - especially not a PF battery box.

=> This loco is designed to have one (or two) 9V train motor/-s, which explains the 4-axle design.

I am mainly into 9V-trains, but when shooting the above photo in snow, I used the few plastic rails I own, and didn’t bother to fit any 9V motor to the loco (due to moisture environment)

However, if going for James Mathis BR103 version (as mentioned in a previous post) I think it would be possible to make a PF version, because that design can be made quite “empty” inside the body to preliminary fit a PF battery box etc. Though even if using James Mathis design, I believe that building a 6-axle PF motorized version would represent quite a challenge.

This is a nice colour update of an already nice Moc.

I've just started ordering parts for my own Moc of this. Your old one is one of the references I've been using. One of the difficulties I haven't solved yet is the spacing of the vents along the side. I'd be very greatful of a picture or explaination of how they are held in place.

Thanks Peterab, and good luck with building your own BR103, it'll be very exciting to see what you come up with !

Regarding spacing between vents, I acknowledge this is probably the trickiest part to achieve. My design is built from 4 equal brick built modules with a tan plate 4x6 as a bearing element.

Over and under that plate 4x6, you find the "vents" (brick 1x2 w grille). Direct inside the "vents", hidden from outside, you place elements like 87087 and attach tan tiles 2x2 vertically. By using technic brick 1x2 w 2holes + suitable plates in between 87087, you can dock each module to the next module. To satisfy the classic 5:2 SNOT ratio, there are 4 modules and 5 rows of tiles 2x2 which results in one big module with a correct even number of studs. (18studs in total)

I forgot to mention that on top of each module there are tile 1x4 beacuse otherwise the train roof cannot be attached becuase of stud mis-match.

Now, if you are completely lost after this very theoretical explanation (I probably would be..) you can send me a message through EB and let me have your e-mail address, so I can take and forward some close-up pictures for you.

[peterab]

To achieve the realistic look I wanted, this loco is absolutely full of more or less advanced SNOT:ing, which for the sides, (with those for BR103 so characteristic rectangular “vent holes”) demands building “deep” inwards.

Thanks Peterab, and good luck with building your own BR103, it'll be very exciting to see what you come up with !

Thanks for the explanation, I understand what you've done. I'm building in 7-wide and probably a bit higher, and I'll try to include all five sets of vents. I'm also trying to fit PF battery and motor in it. I think I'll have to use bar and clip methods, and just hold the vertical tiles in place by friction.

I'm really poor at photographing my Mocs (and in fact finishing them) so it may take a while for me to post anything.