SNIPE Posted December 31, 2025 Posted December 31, 2025 3 hours ago, McMarky said: Hi guys, I've made a quick and easy MOD adding two more levers to enable operating 3 functions simultaneously. To do it I modified the changeover catch parts boring them out The idea is ok, but wouldn't it make more sense to just use 4 levers on independent axles? You can also make a lever that has a pinhole by using a 1x1 technic brick along with a 25893 on the bottom. Quote
McMarky Posted December 31, 2025 Posted December 31, 2025 32 minutes ago, SNIPE said: The idea is ok, but wouldn't it make more sense to just use 4 levers on independent axles? Yes, but your solution would need more rebuild work. I've made only 3 levers assuming that I won't use quick coupler while digging. 34 minutes ago, SNIPE said: You can also make a lever that has a pinhole by using a 1x1 technic brick along with a 25893 on the bottom. Great and pure idea using original parts. Thanks. I've never heard about this part. Quote
Bartybum Posted January 1 Posted January 1 (edited) 6 hours ago, SNIPE said: The idea is ok, but wouldn't it make more sense to just use 4 levers on independent axles? Sure, but in the case of a gearbox that's played with top-down, it's more compact when the levers all share the same axle. The only advantage the cross axle hole has over a pin hole is to rotate the lever via the axle. While this could sometimes be useful, it's redundant since you already have the cross axle hole at the tip Edited January 1 by Bartybum Quote
McMarky Posted January 1 Posted January 1 I switched the power from a quickcoupler to a hammer. It's completely useless. It's far too slow and there is no enough power to break a cookie. Quote
howitzer Posted January 2 Posted January 2 On 12/31/2025 at 8:35 PM, SNIPE said: The idea is ok, but wouldn't it make more sense to just use 4 levers on independent axles? You can also make a lever that has a pinhole by using a 1x1 technic brick along with a 25893 on the bottom. That's a cool idea, but I wonder if the parts stay together or tend to separate over time when the switch snaps to on and off. Though I'm sure it stays together well enough when using 26287 but while using 18948 it might separate. Quote
SNIPE Posted January 3 Posted January 3 On 1/2/2026 at 3:20 PM, howitzer said: That's a cool idea, but I wonder if the parts stay together or tend to separate over time when the switch snaps to on and off. Though I'm sure it stays together well enough when using 26287 but while using 18948 it might separate. Yes, they come apart easily. Quote
Fyredog Posted January 14 Posted January 14 I plan to follow the plan I used when I reverse engineered the 8043. I will try first using technic hubs with L motors. If that fails I will resort to trusty power functions. The movement and speed of the 8043 was acceptable to me. So if I can get the same movement and speed out of the 42215 I will consider that a success. We have to remember we are limited to what Lego gives us to build with. I build GBC modules now, one thing I have learned is there are several ways to accomplish the same outcome. Some are better some are worse. The 42215 is too expensive IMO, but with more $$ and some work it can be a great working model. Technic models can always be improved, and I think that's why I enjoy them the most is because we can improve them over and above what Lego gives us. We can share what we have done to improve them here for others to try on theirs. I enjoy seeing ideas that others have. There are very smart people here. I wish Lego would learn here and improve on their end giving us more diverse models. The cars are starting to get old. we need more variety at Technic from Lego. anyways - if you are interested here is the thread to my 8043 if you are interested. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.