voltio Posted August 1, 2008 Posted August 1, 2008 (edited) I recently negotiated to trade an old 8480 Space Shuttle set for an 8448 Supercar ( ), but one condition was that the 8480's electrical system was functioning. I successfully tested the micromotor, other motors, and fiber optics, but I was at a loss as to how the pole reversers worked. Short of building the whole shuttle (which would be a bit of a waste, since I have to disassemble it in the next few days anyway), is there any way I can tell that the pole reversers work? I have tons of cable and a battery box at my disposal, but no idea what to do. Thanks for your time! FYI, this is the switch I'm talking about: Edited August 1, 2008 by voltio Quote
CP5670 Posted August 1, 2008 Posted August 1, 2008 These are simple to use. Just attach one end to the battery box and the other end to the motor. Turn on the battery box and then stick an axle into the top of the switch to use it. You can also put the axle through the side and rotate it, which is actually how it's done in the space shuttle. Quote
radiant7 Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 (edited) I actually just bought an 8480 Space Shuttle MISB, and I was a bit confused too!. The reversal of polarity is actually controlled by the position of the switch, not the electric stud surface that the switch is pointing to :) CP5670 is absolutely correct, but I'll put it into instruction form for you and anyone else who is interested: 1. Position a large or small 9v battery box (possibly a Power Functions box too, not quite sure if they work) to one side of the pole reverser, and a motor or fibre-optic unit to the other side. 2a. Clip wire onto battery box, lead wire over to reverser and clip onto electric surface. 2b. Clip wire onto motor or fibre-optic unit, lead wire over to reverser and clip onto empty electric surface. 3. Insert a Technic axle (at least 3x long) or a yellow pole reverser handle (should be in the 8480 set amongst the tiny pieces, have a look) vertically into the top of reverser, or alternatively insert an axle horizontally into the side of the PR and slide it through. 4. Press either switch on the battery box and electric current will be delivered to the reverser. Flick/rotate the axle on the pole reverser and it will switch the polarity (forward/reverse - plus/negative) of the motor without you having to touch the battery box. 5. Watch as the classic Lego electric system comes to life :D I don't know why but I just really love the old 9v Electric System. PF is fantastic, and I can see it taking Technic into new areas, but I guess it's just the nostalgic, cutting-edge, high-tech 90's feel of the old system that I like. For example, I recently combined an 8837 Pneumatic Excavator (1992) + 8720 Power Pack (1990) that I found together on ebay. Sure I could have easily pulled a PF motor out of my Bulldozer, but sometimes I just like to build a set as a Lego fan would've back in the early 90's. Most Technic sets from that era had steps in the back of their instructions for adding a motor and it just felt really cool :D Edited August 4, 2008 by radiant7 Quote
CP5670 Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 The main thing I like better about the 9V components is their flexibility and how well they integrate with the rest of the Lego system. The earlier 9V motors had convenient brick-like shapes and actually looked like Lego, which can't be said about the PF motors, and the lights were basically small bricks that could easily fit just about anywhere. On the flip side though, the PF motors are much more powerful. The 9V wires and conducting plates are also just like Lego bricks and can fit into any standard model, and the AC-powered sources like the control center or original RCX are much more convenient to use than battery boxes. I liked the 9V motorization instructions in all the old sets too. We might see a return of that soon, with the new PF motor pack they have released. There was a wide range of 9V components from over the years, all of which were compatible with the rest of the system, although the PF range will probably grow just as big over time. Making the PF extension cable compatible with any 9V component was a great idea, but I hope we get a genuine PF wall powered source at some point. I hate batteries. By the way, one interesting thing about these polarity switches is that sticking an axle into the top creates more friction in the rotating center piece than putting it through the side. This was intentional, as it allows the switch to "lock" into the three possible positions. I used this feature in the rocket launcher in my signature; I wanted to control the switches from the sides but also have them lock into place, so i stuck 2-length axles into the tops of the switches just for that. Quote
Brickthus Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 Making the PF extension cable compatible with any 9V component was a great idea, but I hope we get a genuine PF wall powered source at some point. I hate batteries. The 9V backward compatibility in the extension leads was something we AFOLs pushed hard for in the feedback we gave about PF components. Many AFOLs have invested heavily in 9V so it was essential that the new system be compatible with the old devices. We also pushed for the ability for the PF polarity switch to have its polarity swapped independently of its lever position, to mitigate the loss of 360 degree rotation from the switch, compared to the 9V switch. It resulted in the tiny switch on the end of the PF switch. It means that if the switch is used to control motors for rail point control, the direction can be set as desired by the operator. If you want to power PF items from a power source, plug the 9V-compatible end of a PF extension lead into a 9V train controller. Then stack the other end of that lead and a PF IR receiver plug on the output plug of an empty PF battery box. Set the battery box switch correctly and it will transfer the power from the C1 and C2 pins of the extension lead onto the 9V and 0V pins of the IR receiver in the right polarity. You'll know when it works because the light will come on on the PF IR receiver. It is possible to do this power fix with a PF polarity switch instead, if you have one and you want to put the fix in a smaller space than a battery box. Mark Quote
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