[WIP] Utility Vehicle

[TechnicRCRacer]

Hi guys,

After feedback from my last MOC, I decided to start a new one. I am focusing on the bodywork first. I used a "dummy" chassis to build the front of the vehicle until I finished the front of the chassis. I then transferred the bodywork over. The chassis has independent suspension and a flat 6 engine. The engine drive is transferred below the steering shaft via the use of clutch double bevel gears. I also used one of the new gray double bevel gears which happened to fit perfectly on he engine crankshaft. Photos:

 

I am at a point where I am not sure how to continue the bodywork. I have never been able to get doors right and looking around the internet has not really helped. Does anybody have advice on how to do the sides of the vehicle?

 

-TechnicRCRacer

[Jurss]

Maybe make hood front from

[TechnicRCRacer]

1 hour ago, Jurss said:

Maybe make hood front from *pic*

I will try that, thanks! 

[suffocation]

1 hour ago, Jurss said:

Maybe make hood front from

Seconded. A brilliant start in any case

[TechnicRCRacer]

@Jurss and @suffocation what do you guys think of this? I changed the front to slopes.

I also changed the wheels to white since this suspension setup is dependent on the old variant of the wheels. I still need the most help with the door bodywork, any advice on that?

 

[Jundis]

Maybe these will complement better with the panels on the side, but just an idea :-)

[TechnicRCRacer]

I've finished the chassis for the most part and now I am moving on to bodywork.

I found a neat trick to get panel #5 to align with the smaller 3x7x2 panel and some beams: the micrometer pulley part makes it perfectly align with the curvature and a 1/2 pin on the 3x7 slots in to the gap in the #5 panel. More details if someone asks. 

I do not have enough 1x6 thin lifters to make a fourth seat yet. The chassis has a 2-speed gearbox(I would rather keep it simple) and full independent suspension. It steers with the steering wheel.

 

Now I'm stuck. Bodywork is not my strong point, so progress will be much slower from now on. I can't find a good angle for the back trunk area. If anyone has ideas let me know.

 

-TechnicRCRacer

[Scoar Sonander]

Perhaps something simple, such as a jeep back-opening-thing? So that the back door opens that way, and that it is relatively flat. I don't know if that would go with the overall scheme...   Maybe put it on a slant, using some half-stud pieces?

[TechnicRCRacer]

I am still working on this! I was busy with some other LEGO-related activities. My Bricks&Pieces order is arriving soon with TONS of the new parts so expect an update to this in the near future.

On 2/8/2021 at 2:39 PM, Scoar Sonander said:

Perhaps something simple, such as a jeep back-opening-thing? So that the back door opens that way, and that it is relatively flat. I don't know if that would go with the overall scheme...   Maybe put it on a slant, using some half-stud pieces?

Sorry I missed this, I did not get an alert for some reason. Good idea, I still want to finish the back bumper to determine the shaping of the back, but I will experiment with a Jeep-style hatch.

[TechnicRCRacer]

Finally made some progress, I have been pulling my hair out on a special transmission on an upcoming dark green car... 

I am missing 3 pieces in the correct color. Every bit of bodywork is complete, minus possible revisions. The main problem was the back, which has gone through 4 revisions.

 

Can anyone share advice on the back? It still is a little too flat. New parts have become available since I built the front and sides, therefore I should consider the new options. I will not be making instructions for this model; the chassis uses many subpar building techniques and steering is poor. I am overall happy with the bodywork.

[P McCatty]

Aesthetics isn't my strong suit so I'll defer to others with more experience on that. With that said I like the way you enclosed the model. I bet you wish you had those 9L Links in white . If I could make one suggestion, it would be to revise the front suspension by using the 5L or 6L Steering Arms (with tow-ball sockets). The knuckle has much better security & you can also (vertically) brace the upper & lower arms with a connector for a solid overall assembly. I did an RC Mod of 8858 Rebel Wrecker a while back & the front wheels would routinely fall off using the original linkage, which is what prompted the switch.

Edited November 15, 2021 by P McCatty

[TechnicRCRacer]

@P McCatty Solid point! I haven't had any issues with the wheels falling out yet, but I will have a look at strengthening it. I still need to figure out the aesthetics of the rear of the vehicle.