Detroit-Funk Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 i'll watch the video shortly. two questions: Why does it show those Technic Hubs up in the Purple top left? those aren't needed, correct? and if i didn't want to run lights. would this application still work or would i need to change it? i probably won't run lights right away. Quote
Mr Hobbles Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said: Why does it show those Technic Hubs up in the Purple top left? those aren't needed, correct? Are you referring to the screenshot? Those aren't technic hubs - that's just the generic icon for a "hub". The first purple code section turns the indicator LED's on all hubs purple. So you know that they are all together. You can make this any color you like or delete the section all together. The hubs will just be white. The second purple code section is responsible for turning the head/tail lights on. If you don't want to run head/tail lights, delete the whole purple section at the top right. Edited June 15, 2020 by Mr Hobbles Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 got it. i thought the bluetooth/battery boxes were called hubs too, so when i saw both together i got confused: Quote
Mr Hobbles Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) Aha. The red section you have highlighted is the block for "change the LED on top of the hub". The green section you have highlighted is used to select which hub - in this case, hub 01. The unmarked part chooses the color - purple. The other two purple blocks do exactly the same for hubs 02 and 03 - the second locomotive hub, and the remote. Edited June 15, 2020 by Mr Hobbles Quote
Gimmick Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Mr Hobbles said: This my solution for this. for sharing :) I think you can simplify it a bit by switching from infinite loop + multiple nested if statements to this (image from racingbrick.com @kbalage) Combined with "=" for each controller key. Edit: This activates only if the condition switches to true. Edited June 15, 2020 by Gimmick Quote
Mr Hobbles Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 26 minutes ago, Gimmick said: for sharing :) I think you can simplify it a bit by switching from infinite loop + multiple nested if statements to this (snip) I did not know about the existence of that block, thanks! That simplifies it greatly!@Detroit-Funk Here's an updated, much simpler version, thanks to @Gimmick's tip: Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 @Gimmick @Mr Hobbles wow that cleaned it up nicely. does it still work? lol. think i'll put an order in for some PU components. maybe i'll even consider lights! do you all have a go to? last i looked at bricklink they weren't much better than shop@home Quote
Mr Hobbles Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said: @Gimmick @Mr Hobbles wow that cleaned it up nicely. does it still work? lol. think i'll put an order in for some PU components. maybe i'll even consider lights! do you all have a go to? last i looked at bricklink they weren't much better than shop@home It works exactly the same way. :) I don't have a recommended seller, I tend to go whereever is cheapest. Edited June 15, 2020 by Mr Hobbles Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 Just now, Mr Hobbles said: It works exactly the same way. :) haha, good deal. thank you both! question, i still have the 60198 cargo train running around and will probably add more. should i use the controller for the Horizon and the app for the Cargo train to make things easier on us? or buy another controller maybe? my partner in crime is a 6 year old and trying to keep things uncomplicated for both of us. Quote
Mr Hobbles Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said: haha, good deal. thank you both! question, i still have the 60198 cargo train running around and will probably add more. should i use the controller for the Horizon and the app for the Cargo train to make things easier on us? or buy another controller maybe? my partner in crime is a 6 year old and trying to keep things uncomplicated for both of us. Unfortunately you still need the app and code running while you're using the remote controller for the Horizon Express with my solution. :( Unless you have a second phone/tablet you won't be able to give it to your kid. A second controller is probably easiest. Horizon Express - 2x hubs, 1x phone/tablet with app, 1x remote control. 60198 - 1x hub, 1x remote control. Edited June 15, 2020 by Mr Hobbles Quote
ps1flyer Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) For the sake of completeness, I might add that I run two Horizon Express (coupled together) without switch or polarity reverser (so just one set of IR receiver, PF motor and PF battery box in each unit). I do this by having one motor placed on the front bogie in one unit and on the back bogie in the other unit. Both IR receivers are set to the same channel, obviously. Edited June 15, 2020 by ps1flyer Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 ah i see. you have to have the app on in the background to run the program. copy that. 1 minute ago, ps1flyer said: For the sake of completeness, I might add that I run two Horizon Express (coupled together) without switch or polarity reverser (so just one set of IR receiver, PF motor and PF battery box in each unit). I do this by having one motor placed on the front bogie in one unit and on the back bogie in the other unit. Both IR receivers are set to the same channel, obviously. i always wondered why folks didn't do it that way while running PF. do you have any issues with the engine placement? Quote
ps1flyer Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 15 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said: i always wondered why folks didn't do it that way while running PF. do you have any issues with the engine placement? No real issues, I think I had to adjust the underside by 1 stud to ensure proper movement, but it was easily done and is not noticable at all. Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 am i crazy to think the exact same thing wouldn't work for two PoweredUp hubs/motors? just place one "backwards" if you will in the opposite engine? Quote
Mr Hobbles Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 Just now, Detroit-Funk said: am i crazy to think the exact same thing wouldn't work for two PoweredUp hubs/motors? just place one "backwards" if you will in the opposite engine? That would work, yes, you can connect two hubs to one remote directly. You just have to make sure the motors are both running in the same direction, which as @ps1flyer says, means using the other bogey and moving the underside a bit, but nothing major. Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Mr Hobbles said: That would work, yes, you can connect two hubs to one remote directly. You just have to make sure the motors are both running in the same direction, which as @ps1flyer says, means using the other bogey and moving the underside a bit, but nothing major. even for PoweredUp? there isn't anything crazy about it knowing what is forward/reverse right since it's bluetooth? just making sure its wired opposite from the other engine? so you're saying use one motor on the front bogey in one engine and one motor on the back bogey in the other? that might be the easiest way. so then why go through all the trouble with the app? Edited June 15, 2020 by Detroit-Funk Quote
Mr Hobbles Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 10 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said: even for PoweredUp? there isn't anything crazy about it knowing what is forward/reverse right since it's bluetooth? just making sure its wired opposite from the other engine? so you're saying use one motor on the front bogey in one engine and one motor on the back bogey in the other? that might be the easiest way. so then why go through all the trouble with the app? You basically have two options: 1. Plug both motors into the same port on both hubs (port A or B). This way the respective buttons on the remote (left or right) control both motors at the same time. But because one locomotive is turned around, the motors will run in opposite directions. So you need to put the motor at the other side of the locomotive and turn it around, and make the required modification to the underside. 2. Plug both motors into different ports. This way you can run one in front and one in reverse. But you need to press both buttons on the remote at the same time as covered in page 1 of this topic. Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 Just now, Mr Hobbles said: You basically have two options: 1. Plug both motors into the same port on both hubs (port A or B). This way the respective buttons on the remote (left or right) control both motors at the same time. But because one locomotive is turned around, the motors will run in opposite directions. So you need to put the motor at the other side of the locomotive and turn it around, and make the required modification to the underside. 2. Plug both motors into different ports. This way you can run one in front and one in reverse. But you need to press both buttons on the remote at the same time as covered in page 1 of this topic. got it. that's where the little contraption came into play to ensure you nail both speeds at the same time. @ps1flyer do you recall any modifications you had to make? I believe the train engines are the same and the battery boxes are the same dimensions, so my scenario should be the same as yours even using PoweredUp. Quote
legotownlinz Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) My Horizon Express uses Power Function motors at both ends. I've reversed the polarity of one motor. I've done the same for the Powered Up passenger train as well. My instructions on how to do that are available here and here. I like the idea that there is no visible mess inside the engines. Everything can be build as described in the instruction and the remotes can be used as usual, too. The Power Function receivers may run out of sync if one side of the train has no connection to the IR transmitter, but this rarely happens and if it does happen you'll not notice it if the difference is small. And if you notice it, either go to maximum speed or stop and the receivers are synced again. Powered Up has no sync issues as long as the remote is close enough to the trains (approx. < 10 meters). Edited June 15, 2020 by legotownlinz Quote
Lok24 Posted June 16, 2020 Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) @Mr Hobbles You could zip your program and link a post to a download instead of pictures. As a summary of this thread: - use 2 PU hubs - use a smart device and a self-written program in the Powered Up App - Controll with either smart device or pysical handheld form LEGO. - Create a program yourself or download it from someone else. Edited June 16, 2020 by Lok24 Quote
Mr Hobbles Posted June 16, 2020 Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Lok24 said: @Mr Hobbles You could zip your program and link a post to a download instead of pictures. @Lok24It’s only possible to do so this Android. iOS doesn’t provide the same filesystem access, and Lego hasn’t provided a way of doing this yet. Edited June 16, 2020 by Mr Hobbles Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 16, 2020 Author Posted June 16, 2020 3 hours ago, Lok24 said: @Mr Hobbles You could zip your program and link a post to a download instead of pictures. As a summary of this thread: - use 2 PU hubs - use a smart device and a self-written program in the Powered Up App - Controll with either smart device or pysical handheld form LEGO. - Create a program yourself or download it from someone else. think we need to add two more scenarios if i followed what @ps1flyer and @mr hobbles stated above 1. Plug both motors into the same port on both hubs (port A or B). This way the respective buttons on the remote (left or right) control both motors at the same time. But because one locomotive is turned around, the motors will run in opposite directions. So you need to put the motor at the other side of the locomotive and turn it around, and make the required modification to the underside. 2. Plug both motors into different ports. This way you can run one in front and one in reverse. But you need to press both buttons on the remote at the same time as covered in page 1 of this topic. Quote
Gimmick Posted June 16, 2020 Posted June 16, 2020 20 hours ago, Mr Hobbles said: I did not know about the existence of that block, thanks! That simplifies it greatly!@Detroit-Funk Here's an updated, much simpler version, thanks to @Gimmick's tip: Maybe it escalated a bit =/ Disclamer: I do not even own a lego train or remote control .... sooo even if it does not work without tuning... I hope it at least shows the idea behind events and methods "Features": Two event triggers, one event-method, two seperated methods, two break modes. There are some obvious improvements like: loop for checking constant button pressing to improve brake behavior, combine with interface to display speed, selection for different trains,... but well it is more of an inspiration ;D And it looks like there is a bug preventing methods from being deleted. =/ Quote
Detroit-Funk Posted June 17, 2020 Author Posted June 17, 2020 @Gimmick thanks for the continued reply's. Although I don't mind toying with the LEGO APP in the future, i'm just looking for the simplest route to get two trains running together. And to not over complicate things as I will have a six year old wanting to drive it as well. :) Quote
Gimmick Posted June 17, 2020 Posted June 17, 2020 3 hours ago, Detroit-Funk said: @Gimmick thanks for the continued reply's. Although I don't mind toying with the LEGO APP in the future, i'm just looking for the simplest route to get two trains running together. And to not over complicate things as I will have a six year old wanting to drive it as well. :) No problem. It was just an example to show what could be done and what types of blocks exist and what they do, since they have no tooltip :) Quote
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