Make your trains run more efficiently! Haul a more, longer!

[Carefree_Dude]

I've been thinking about running long trains, and the limitations of lego train motors and other parts. I know there are a few ways to get around these, and was hoping we could all chip in with some knowledge. My first thing I would like to add is info on replacing O-rings!

 

I now a lot of people here know this, and I made this same topic roughly 10 years ago (back when RC trains first came out) but I wanted to say it again. 

Remove the clear/grey o-rings on the train wheels on your motors. Replace them with 14mm Inner Diameter, 17mm OD sealing gaskets, and watch the magic happen. 

By simply replacing these O-rings, you get much more grip onto the track and it helps stops the wheels from slipping due to lack of weight. For instance, I have a UP Big Boy that I tried to push with the tender from the Disney train (single PuP motor and battery box). The wheels just slipped in place and couldn't budge the big boy. 

I then replaced the O-rings on the 4 wheels with the sealing gaskets, and the difference was shocking: Not only could the tiny Disney Train tender push the Big Boy, but it moved reasonably fast, power right through tight lego curves, AND pull 3 train cars and drag the Disney train behind it all. 

In the past, I modified the Santa Fe Super Chief to work with power functions, and replacing those O rings allowed it to pull all 5 santa fe cars and a few emerald night cars with no issue. 

And best of all, this isn't an expensive modification. You can get a package of 40 O rings for under $10. 

That said, I'm just imagining what kind of performance you can get if you add in bearings and lubrication on top of all this...

 

(If someone has experience with lubrication and bearings, please add some info!) 

(Also, some info on aftermarket powering solutions (sbrick, fx brick, buwizz, etc would be nice)

[Toastie]

Without any deeper wisdom, I fully second that (which does not mean anything!)

In essence, you get a rubber surface - by action of the weight of the upper structure - interacting with the track more closely.

With all plastic rails, i.e., no intention of picking up power from the track, I am all with you: Go for the O-rings you are using. The more rubber there is between wheel and track the better. Well - sort of. Don't overdo it.

Whenever you are on a 9V layout from the good ol'days - >and< the power is picked up by a 9V motor (equipped with O-rings as well) - be more careful, as the metal wheel needs to be in contact with the (metal) rail. Here the O-rings need to be very carefully balanced.

I am sure all you guys know that, I just want to make sure!

All the best,
Thorsten

[Phoxtane]

Is there a difference in results between a train motor with new O-rings on all four wheels and one that has new O-rings on only one side (two wheels)? If there isn't any difference, I would run new O-rings on only one side since the wheels do need to slip inside a curve - they're connected through a solid axle but will be traveling different distances due to the curve.

Hmm - if there's traction issues with replacement O-rings on one side only, maybe it would work better with O-rings being on opposite corners of the motor? 

I don't have any locomotives or track set up, so I can't test this myself unfortunately.

[Daedalus304]

3 hours ago, Phoxtane said:

Is there a difference in results between a train motor with new O-rings on all four wheels and one that has new O-rings on only one side (two wheels)? If there isn't any difference, I would run new O-rings on only one side since the wheels do need to slip inside a curve - they're connected through a solid axle but will be traveling different distances due to the curve.

Hmm - if there's traction issues with replacement O-rings on one side only, maybe it would work better with O-rings being on opposite corners of the motor? 

I don't have any locomotives or track set up, so I can't test this myself unfortunately.

I've not run into these issues with the small train wheels, actually.

I have run into it on some locos running larger wheels, BBB Med or larger. In those cases, I actually found removing 1 O-ring and having a total of 3 fixed it. You only need 1 single wheel to be able to 'slip'.

Another interesting fact is that you are less likely to run into this issue on wide-radius curves. I have a 4-8-4 using XXL drivers, F-B-B-F, with O-Rings on all four flanged drivers. You'd think this would be asking for trouble, but I run it primarily on r72+ and it doesn't have the issue.

[zephyr1934]

One word: "roller bearings!"

I'm a recent convert, my double stack train grew to 21 wells. Using lego wheels I would need two super magnets between the engine and the first car. The engine was pretty heavy so I had no problem with wheel slip. After switching to roller bearings I do not need the super magnets and I was able to pull it with my much lighter Maersk repaint.

 

Meanwhile, I have not had troubles with the bands on the PF train motor wheels slipping. Lego went through at least 4 different sets of traction bands on the wheels though. The first two generations were very loose, but I think those disappeared within the first year of PF (after lasting the entire duration of the RC train motor). In fact, my heaviest PF train would trip the overload resistor in the IR receiver before any wheel slip problems.

[ALCO]

@Goldenmasamune is there a particular brand you recommend or a store where these might be found? Do you know what material the ones you recommend are made of?

[Carefree_Dude]

8 hours ago, ALCO said:

@Goldenmasamune is there a particular brand you recommend or a store where these might be found? Do you know what material the ones you recommend are made of?

The ones I use specifically are these. There may be better options

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9NQTXL/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KvHODbK1SB3CH

[ecmo47]

I use these from Lowes. #35 O-rings.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-10-Pack-11-16-in-x-1-16-in-Rubber-Faucet-O-Ring/3369372

[wildchicken13]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but how exactly do you remove the stock LEGO rubber bands from the wheels without damaging them?

[Jeffinslaw]

1 hour ago, wildchicken13 said:

Sorry to revive an old thread, but how exactly do you remove the stock LEGO rubber bands from the wheels without damaging them?

Dental pick or very carefully slide a blade underneath them.