Technique for Smooth Slopes

[SNIPE]

Hi,

I am busy trying to get smooth slopes, since annoyingly, almost all Lego slope pieces have the stupid lip on them :hmpf:

This is just not perfect enough for my eyes, so I came up with the idea of stacking certain compatible slopes up using advanced techniques.

In this case, Technic 1X1 beams do the trick perfectly although I still need to test it in real life.

My question is, is there a way to connect the yellow 1x1 beams at their tops?.

Currently some of the slopes just rest on top of them.

If not, Is there a better solution than using 1x1 beams?.

I would like to have the sides filled in too so that the sides look perfectly solid (hence why I have a 1L gap either side for me to fill in later).

But if this is not possible just ignore the sides. As long as nothing protrudes out of the sides.

Here is the LDR file

Edited June 10, 2019 by SNIPE

[LEGO Historian]

Well good luck with that....

LEGO 45 degree sloped bricks were first introduced (in red) in sizes 2x2 and 2x4 in November in 1958, with the corner slopes (and 1x2/2x3) introduced in red in 1959... and then all 13 sizes were introduced in blue in 1960 (with the corner peak discontinued in 1972).  It wouldn't be another 10 years before other colors were added to the LEGO color palette.

 

But these were made with the lip for 2 reasons... 1) so that they can be attached to other stud bricks (including roof bricks), and 2) because it looks realistic because most real life roof tiles or roof shingles look like that (have that overlay effect).  Had TLG not produced these like this, then cheese slopes could not have been invented a half century later.  Also TLG made these with rough sloped surfaces to also make them more realistic.  I can only imagine what a smooth surface slope would look like, had that been included in the original 1958 design. 

What bothers me much more than a smooth top to slope bricks, is the squared off zigzag underside as seen on the edge of the bricks that are seen on the exposed overhang sides.... such as here...

 

Good luck with your endeavor!  

Edited June 10, 2019 by LEGO Historian

[deraven]

Well, if you get more clever with the plates under the Technic beams you can just use a half-pin with stud (part #4274).  You'd have to have a tile (or empty space) under the pin hole that you want to put the pin in so the stud from the plate under the beam doesn't prevent the pin from being fully inserted.  Should be doable.

[MAB]

There are many other techniques possible, but why not just tile a plate then angle it with hinges?

[SNIPE]

5 hours ago, MAB said:

There are many other techniques possible, but why not just tile a plate then angle it with hinges?

I might be able to do that, my idea however was to also use corner slopes however, but I dont want a 45 degree angle (basically, it's gonna be hard).

Tn the mean time, I could just use a 1x4 tile with 2 studs with either two 1x6 thin beams, or two 1x2  thick beam on top,its slightly illegal but heh.

 

Edited June 10, 2019 by SNIPE

[jpx]

I found this technique over on Reddit a while ago:

https://imgur.com/gallery/9KOJZiF

 

[Brengineer]

I wish I'd seen this sooner! A while back, I figured out a nearly seamless technique to do this, as I was creating a super-sized 45° 2x2 slope, and I needed one smooth slope and one giant lip at the bottom.
Revisiting it with newer brackets, I was able to make it simpler and seamless!

Here are some color-coded screenshots to demonstrate the technique:

 

 

[Mylenium]

It's almost like in "The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" - 4070 is the answer to everything. Plugging such bricks at 90 degrees creates a smooth base onto which other stuff can be plugged, eleminitating the half stud offset. You may need some brackets in there onto which the 4070's themselves get plugged as illustrated by some of the examples as well, but it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.

Mylenium