Physical part size verification

[Dilvish]

I have created a SNOT road model as in the attached image.

Could someone confirm 100% that the cyan parts are actually the same size/height in real life as in LDraw? They are part "2555.dat" "Tile 1x1 with clip".

If they're off by even a small amount, it will ruin my build.

Thanks.

Edited December 29, 2017 by Dilvish

[legolijntje]

Could you post a 3d view of how exactly the road is attached to the sidewalk? I'm not exactly sure what you're doing with those white and yellow parts on the left side.

[SylvainLS]

Yellow parts seem to be jumpers.  So the space under the road is 1 plate + ½ stud = 2¼ plates = 18 LDU.

I just measured a 12825 and a 15712, they are both 0.736 cm = 18 LDU high.  So it’s a perfect match! 

And, FWIW, that build works in LDD with 2555 and 12825 but not with 15712.

[Dilvish]

Thanks, Sylvian!

http://www.mediafire.com/file/7518lfbhvi9kkpp/ldr_snotroad_tripleblankcross_1_20171231.zip

 

Edited December 31, 2017 by Dilvish

[Dilvish]

How about this build?

Does the "LEGO" logo on top of the bottom-right stud prevent this from working IRL? Thanks.

[SylvainLS]

Yes. Page 5 of Jamie Berard’s presentation “Stressing the Elements” 

 

 

[Umbra-Manis]

To add to that, however, the same presentation says using a hollow stud in such a situation is perfectly allowable. 

[Dilvish]

6 hours ago, SylvainLS said:

Yes. Page 5 of Jamie Berard’s presentation “Stressing the Elements” 

 

 

It says, "This extra height causes the stud on the blue brick above to touch the side of the yellow one." I kind of NEED it to touch the sides. What I DON'T want is for it to alter the direction of or lift the yellow part.

Edited January 1, 2018 by Dilvish

[SylvainLS]

He says it’s illegal.  That means it adds stress.  Therefore the yellow brick is not merely brushed, it’s slightly pushed.  That’s how I understand it.

On the other hand, there’re several examples of official sets (and modern ones) that use “illegal” techniques and “near-enoughs.”

[Dilvish]

It should be easy to instead switch to a hollow studded brick. But might that not leave a gap between the bottom and top bricks? Since I am trying to support the top brick with the bottom one.

Edited January 4, 2018 by Dilvish

[SylvainLS]

Theoretically (that is, as I understand the theory):

With a hollow stud, there will be a little play, the usual brick tolerance (0.1 mm is the value given most often for brick width).  Tolerance is good.

With a logoed stud, there will be stress (0.14 - 0.1 = 0.04 mm), which isn’t advised.

Practically (I just tried, with new bricks):

With a hollow stud, the fit is perfect.

With a logoed stud, the logo clearly pushes the brick.

[Dilvish]

Okay thanks.