zephyr1934 Posted January 20, 2015 Posted January 20, 2015 Thanks Zephyr, I had no idea that old version of the pin connector existed. That would look much better, although I'm also on the lookout for a black palm tree segment that somebody else said would be the best piece for the chimney. I will do my best to get both to try out. Yes, if you trip over a black palm tree they are great stacks for steam engines. However, in this case I think the pin connector is closer to the actual profile (there is a slight expansion on the prototype, but to my eye it is closer to straight than to the angle of the palm tree). Also, inside the top of the palm tree is a stud facing up but fortunately it is a hollow stud. So you could use a bar or hose to connect to the downward facing stud from the dish. Well, the wheels are a problem with every Lego model built 6 or 7 studs wide. Also that huge flange is a problem as, as it makes the wheel appear bigger than it actually is. The driver diameter of the 57xx where only a little bit smaller than standard gauge, so the wheel should be smaller than Lego's gauge, which is about 11.5 plates, whereas the large Lego driver is about Lego's gauge. So the solution would be in the middle, but that is exactly the problem You might be able to fake it at 6.5 wide using "studs out" 1x6 or 1x8 tiles. Quote
Redimus Posted January 20, 2015 Posted January 20, 2015 You might be able to fake it at 6.5 wide using "studs out" 1x6 or 1x8 tiles. That's what I did with the Q class and it works well, although the clearances between the brackets they're attached to and the wheels are minimal, which means you can't really allow for pivoted or floating wheelsets (you could use less brackets but I chose against that due to less structural integrity and the holes that would have left in the footplate along the side). Quote
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