Anyway, here is what my setup looks like. I use a technique called three point lighting which you can read more about here.

I've numbered where I placed my lights and where I place three more when I use my softeners in red or blue...

My red and blue bulbs. Looks like there's been another walrus whacking in hinckleytown...
I set up the shadowbox itself with three sheets of foamcore. I took a regular cardboard box that LEGO was shipped to me in and cut off two of the sides. Then I taped the back of the foam core inside what was left of the box and glued it down with some wood glue:

So, that's it. I sharpen all my photos in Photoshop and switch the sharpen mode to screen to brighten them up and do basic color correction with the color balance tool (Ctrl + B for PC, Apple + B for MAC).
Foamcore and cliplights are relatively inexpensive. I probably got my whole setup for about $30. The camera was through the roof and so is the Adobe Photoshop software...but the shadow box and light setup are easier to obtain than you think.
I'm no photography expert so feel free to tell me where I may be going wrong if you know and impart more knowledge upon me and the rest of us!!! X-D
better LEGO pics on!
UPDATE 09.18.2007-Just wanted to update this thread with some more tips and tricks:
1. I've noticed a lot of people post pictures at 300 dpi or higher. This uses a lot of memory and bandwidth. To post a picture online, it only needs to be 72 dpi. You can't tell the difference on screen between a picture at 72 dpi and a picture at 5,000,000 dpi, trust me. If you have photo-editing software you should be able to change the dpi. Your camera settings should allow you to take pics at 72 dpi, although you want to keep your camera at 300 dpi if you like to print your pictures...Reducing the dpi will reduce the file size by a great amount!
2. When foucsing your three point lighting, focusing should be done one light at a time. So when you are focusing one lamp, make sure the others are off and that the light you are focusing is either spotlighting or filling the area you need it to...
3. If you don't have the lights or the rig to use this setup (mine is clipped on to the plumbing and gasline in my basement) you can reflect natural light from two points using posterboard or reflect light from lamps using posterboard. White poster board reflecting light from one lamp or window can be just as effective as using mutliple lamps.
4. Color correction-if you don't have photo-editing software and you need to color correct your photos, say they are coming out too yellow, you can use poster board for this as well. Using blue posterboard to reflect light into your shadowbox can reduce yellow, red balances cyan (lighter blues), and magenta balances greens...If you have access to gels which you may find in a theater or photography studio or the theater or photography dept at your school. You can balance color in your shadowbox with colored gels that cover the lights.

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