Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About legoboy3998

  • Birthday 01/21/87

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Whitefish Bay, WI


  • Country
  1. @codefox421, The only place I see it being an issue in your above track configurations, is the first one with the curve right after the switch. For that, I would suggest what legoman666 did. for the other two issues with the curves in parallel tracks, you can simply use 1 conversion track + 1 half straight on either side of the curve to convert back to 9v track. Sal WFB, WI
  2. Looks great as usual LT! It is very highly detailed and recognizable. Do you have more detailed pics of the smaller builds and merchandise? Sal WFB, WI
  3. I put this wireless camera into the nose of my 6 wide GP38. I tested it out at a show this past Fall and hope to have it at Brickworld this June. Here are some pictures of it in action. MF16 by BuriedinBricks, on Flickr MF9 by BuriedinBricks, on Flickr I can take pictures it in the engine if interested. Sal WFB, WI
  4. I have contemplated doing more traditional model railroad style scenery with LEGO being used for track, trains, buildings, vehicles, and non organic details like power poles. I had seen pictures on of someone I think in Germany who did something similar. It intrigued me in part because I think it might be a much more cost effective way to do scenery and save the LEGO for or I portant building. If I am understanding you right, and this is similar to what you are planning, I would be very interested to se in progress and finished pictures. Sal WFB, WI
  5. Not sure if you will be able to view this video, but here is a video showing how to remove the printing off a model railroad railcars. Use Micro Sol (available at most hobby shops, it is a setting agent for water slide decals). You brush the Micro Sol onto the printing you want to remove. Wait about 5 minutes, and dampen the area with water from a damp cotton swab. Lay clear scotch tabe over the printing, rub it with a toothpick to insure it sticks to all the printing, and peel up the tape. Most of the printing should come with it. You may ned to do it multiple times. When all printing is removed, clean off any remaining Micro Sol with wet cotton swabs and dry. since plastic models are made of similar materials to LEGO, and the printing is also likely similar, this method should not harm the LEGO much. Sal WFB, WI
  6. I use Microsoft Paint and Microsoft Word to create my custom stickers, than I print them onto Papilio Inkjet Glossy Photo Film. Because the photo film is white, the biggest challenge is color matching the background bricks. Here are some examples. 20160616_091410 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr 20160616_092312 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr One of my favorites, 20160619_091602 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr Note the Hazmat placard, 20160522_144047 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr Sal WFB, WI
  7. BrickOCD, why not either add a plate on tomp if the brick with the fishing line in between. Or stack up two or three plates with the line in between, no drilling needed. Sal WFB, WI
  8. Thank you SylvianLS. I finally got it to work using rebrickable. It took quite a bit more work, but once I get used to it, I am sure it will be easier in the future. Sal WFB, WI
  9. Actually it is quite accurate to the real thing. It is meant to access the pallet from the side facing the camera. The wheels (black 1x1 dots) ride up and over the bottom board and through the pallet (or just before the last board without sticking all the way through. Than the handle pumped to raise the pallet off the ground by lowering the front wheels. A real pallet jack (yellow hand truck) doesn't typically does not fit under the sides of a pallet. The fork holes usually aren't large enough. Sal WFB, WI
  10. I tried to Upload the following model to my Bricklink Wanted List. I got an error message that briefly appeared on the screen before disappearing. The message read something to the effect, "the file could not be uploaded because one ore more parts are invalid or do not exist in the Bricklink library". My problem is Bricklink gives no indication what parts are good and which are "invalid", so I have no idea how to correct the file so I can upload it and order the parts. Does anyone know how I can find out which parts are "invalid" without having to upload each part individually? Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions, Sal WFB WI
  11. My only concern would be the one you linked dows not seem to mention if it is plastic safe. Many of the Labelle lubricants specifically say they are safe for plastics. Sal WFB, WI
  12. That happened to me. When I purchased 10 packs (500 ball bearings) a few weeks ago, I got an email saying the bearings were back ordered but they would send a PCB board as a free gift and the bearings would be sent when they came in. I recieved the ball bearings about a week after I recieved the "free" PCB board. The bearings actually came well before Ebays estimated delivery. Have a little faith and give it a couple weeks. Between EBay and PayPal, you have plenty of recourse if they don't arrive. Sal WFB, WI
  13. Look into Labell Industries lubricants. They are specifically made for model trains and RC cars and are plastic compatible. Sal WFB, WI
  14. They look great! I like the dump trailer you made. Dose the dump trailer dump? If so, can you post pics showing it dumping please. Sal WFB, WI
  15. I just imported a model into LDD Manager 125 and it says part 15573 (Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove and Inside Stud Holder (Jumper)) is not available in Black, Tan, an Yellow. I checked Bicklink and it is available in all three. I don't know if this is an error in LDD Manager or some other issue. On a side note, is there a way to check for updates to LDD Manager, or do you need to check the link in the first post manually? Thanks, Sal WFB, WI