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About legoboy3998

  • Birthday 01/21/87

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    Whitefish Bay, WI


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  1. That is correct. Some modelers either use magnets (permanent or electro) mounted strategically under the track to actuate the magnetic trip pin in the couplers to uncouple cars. However, most modelers just use a wooden skewer or pencil to manually open the coupler knuckle to decouple cars. This is acceptable because in the real world train cars are manually decoupled. sal WFB, WI
  2. I use O Scale Kadee couplers for my trains. The look and function like real train couplers. The standard way to uncouple them is either manually with a "pick" or with a magnet under the track. They now offer a way to remotely operate their couplers. Info can be found here. Sal WFB, WI
  3. I am looking for a source for "flex tube". I know some builders have mentioned finding non LEGO sources, but can't find any reference to where now. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Sal WFB, WI
  4. It took me a little longer to co than I planned, but I finally got around to doing some needed coupler assembly and took what picks I could. They, along with descriptions of the process can be found on my flickr.
  5. I couldn't find the one I was looking for, but these might work. Sal WFB, WI
  6. I am not sure there are any pre assembled couplers out there. The main reason for the spring is to center the coupler in the box so it will always line up when you want to couple cars. I use a simple tweezers to grab and compress the spring in the middle. I make sure to leave a couple loops on the outside of either side of the tweezers so the spring won't pop off and go flying. It works pretty well, but I keep extra springs I get in a small ziploc bag just in case I loose one. I have a few more couplers I have to assemble. When a I get back home from vacation, I can post pics of how I assemble them. (I realize this doesn't exactly answer your question.) Sal, WFB, WI
  7. @codefox421, The only place I see it being an issue in your above track configurations, is the first one with the curve right after the switch. For that, I would suggest what legoman666 did. for the other two issues with the curves in parallel tracks, you can simply use 1 conversion track + 1 half straight on either side of the curve to convert back to 9v track. Sal WFB, WI
  8. Looks great as usual LT! It is very highly detailed and recognizable. Do you have more detailed pics of the smaller builds and merchandise? Sal WFB, WI
  9. I put this wireless camera into the nose of my 6 wide GP38. I tested it out at a show this past Fall and hope to have it at Brickworld this June. Here are some pictures of it in action. MF16 by BuriedinBricks, on Flickr MF9 by BuriedinBricks, on Flickr I can take pictures it in the engine if interested. Sal WFB, WI
  10. I have contemplated doing more traditional model railroad style scenery with LEGO being used for track, trains, buildings, vehicles, and non organic details like power poles. I had seen pictures on of someone I think in Germany who did something similar. It intrigued me in part because I think it might be a much more cost effective way to do scenery and save the LEGO for or I portant building. If I am understanding you right, and this is similar to what you are planning, I would be very interested to se in progress and finished pictures. Sal WFB, WI
  11. Not sure if you will be able to view this video, but here is a video showing how to remove the printing off a model railroad railcars. Use Micro Sol (available at most hobby shops, it is a setting agent for water slide decals). You brush the Micro Sol onto the printing you want to remove. Wait about 5 minutes, and dampen the area with water from a damp cotton swab. Lay clear scotch tabe over the printing, rub it with a toothpick to insure it sticks to all the printing, and peel up the tape. Most of the printing should come with it. You may ned to do it multiple times. When all printing is removed, clean off any remaining Micro Sol with wet cotton swabs and dry. since plastic models are made of similar materials to LEGO, and the printing is also likely similar, this method should not harm the LEGO much. Sal WFB, WI
  12. I use Microsoft Paint and Microsoft Word to create my custom stickers, than I print them onto Papilio Inkjet Glossy Photo Film. Because the photo film is white, the biggest challenge is color matching the background bricks. Here are some examples. 20160616_091410 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr 20160616_092312 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr One of my favorites, 20160619_091602 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr Note the Hazmat placard, 20160522_144047 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr Sal WFB, WI
  13. BrickOCD, why not either add a plate on tomp if the brick with the fishing line in between. Or stack up two or three plates with the line in between, no drilling needed. Sal WFB, WI
  14. Thank you SylvianLS. I finally got it to work using rebrickable. It took quite a bit more work, but once I get used to it, I am sure it will be easier in the future. Sal WFB, WI
  15. Actually it is quite accurate to the real thing. It is meant to access the pallet from the side facing the camera. The wheels (black 1x1 dots) ride up and over the bottom board and through the pallet (or just before the last board without sticking all the way through. Than the handle pumped to raise the pallet off the ground by lowering the front wheels. A real pallet jack (yellow hand truck) doesn't typically does not fit under the sides of a pallet. The fork holes usually aren't large enough. Sal WFB, WI