BrickieB

Eurobricks Citizen
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About BrickieB

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Modular buildings - Technic - Star Wars

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  • Country
    Belgium
  1. I've had the small Y-wing (9495) for some time now, but I still love the UCS version. As I'm slowly working on a collection of UCS spaceships I feel the Y-Wing should be present too. Now, with the new movie I suppose a re-release won't happen anytime soon so it's worth bricklinking it. As you may know, it can be found second hand at prices of around €500-700 - or a lot more. I'm not prepared to pay this amount for this ship. I like it, but piece count dictates a price of around €150 so bricklinking it should be easy enough, and a lot cheaper. I started by looking at the parts I already had in inventory and I came at about 40%. Of course, the remaining 60% would be the hard to get items, so I was prepared to make a few changes. The idea is to make the model as intended (or close to it) at first, and then mod it to my satisfaction. I would not do this if I had bought the original, but as it will not be identical to the released model anyway I will improve it. First complication: hard-to-get items. There are a few of these. - The white tube parts (78c02) that make the sticks towards the rear of the engines. These are still available but very expensive (over €1 each at this time, and you need 112 of them!) I replaced them with 6538b, which were available new at about € 0,12-0,20 each at the time I ordered them (last year). Unfortunately, these too have become hard to get now - and very expensive. - The wheels at the rear of the engines (32077). These were only used in white on this model. You can find them in silver but that would mean you had to paint them (eww!). So I found an alternative in part 2903 which is easy to find in white. It's the same diameter but only half the width. This actually appealed to me, as I find the original wheels to be too wide. - All the tubes as greebling on the top of the ship are hard to find in the correct lengths and colours. So I used Reddish Brown 6L bars where possible, and ordered longer reddish brown / LBG bars which were cut to length for the other bars needed. - The 2x8 slopes in DBG are not that hard to get, but none of the stores I ordered from had them in stock. However, I had some 2x4 DBG slopes which I used, and they worked perfectly. - 1x2 Bricks with handle (30236) are very uncommon in Dark Orange - I've seen prices of €16 each! I was thinking of taking these in reddish brown colour or tan ones. I ordered both colours but stuck with reddish brown as it's closer to the original. - Same goes for the Dark Orange grille-tiles. I have replaced these with gold ones. - A bit of a weird piece: Light Bluish Gray Slope, Inverted 45 6 x 4 Double with Recessed Center (30183). Luckily, I managed to replicate this with parts I had in my inventory, so there was no need to buy them. (1x 60219 + 2x 64799 did the trick) - Tan 1x1 plates with clip were not so easy to find either, so I chose gold ones to match my grille tiles. - I could actually use the windscreen from my smaller Y-wing. The only problem is that it doesn't have the white roof, but I can live with that. - White Technic, Axle Connector with Axle Hole (32039) is also hard to find, that's been replaced by LBG ones, which again I already had. In my model, I could also replace them by white piece 32013 - I haven't done so yet. Second complication: small changes to improve on the model. Mainly the long sticks towards the rear of the engines. As I was already going to use different parts to 'thicken' those sticks, I wasn't depending on cross axles to support the original tube bits. So I could move the connections to the engines slightly to make for a better, more continuous part. Another consideration is replacing the parts you won't see anyway. I'm thinking of (for example) black 1x16 bricks where they could really be any colour, or yellow 2x2 bricks with a pin poking out, you don't see a thing of this either. So these can be replaced by different colours - or even different parts. It is very hard for me to put a price on this model: I had a lot of the parts already, and I also ordered parts for other projects with these orders to save on shipping. One of these projects is Anio's Venator which needs a lot of plates - which are very expensive. If I was to guess I'd say I have about €150 into the Y-wing. Below are some pictures, I welcome your thoughts, questions and comments!
  2. Thanks for the kind comments, guys! I'll post an update pic (or pics) when there's something to report. I could make a third stand but that does not align with my view on the finished model. :) Total length is about 145c now. But after I took the pics, in order to fix the sagging middle, I completely redesigned the spine of the hull. Needs a little more work, though ;)
  3. So here are my progress-pics I promised. First, a global overview. I finished the base of where my city will be. Here's a (sort of) top down pic to see the dimensions of the ship. It's not 100% perfect but still a whole lot better than the Lego one. Opened up. The top halves of the hull rest on the bottom halves. But the city base is also a seperate part. There are multiple reasons: my frame is 3 bricks wide, but it's sort of annoying to build on a surface that's shifted half a stud. It's also easier to build the city when it's not connected to the rest of the ship. It reduces weight and vulnerability of the ship, makes repairs easier, and allows me to flip the ship upside down to work on the engine area. So lots of advantages! Another view... The rear end of the ship. As you can see it's sagging a little in the middle, I'm still going to fix that. Another view of the rear. The mounting spots for the engine bay are in place, but the engine bay is not built yet. Here is a more detailed pic of the sagging middle. I will be able to fix this by adding material to the wings, but I needed to wait until I knew what plates I would have left after building the rest of the ship. So when the rough enginebay work is done I will be able to reinforce these parts. Hopefully this will also tighten up the nose section. One of the advantages of my detachable hull / city: easy access to the bottom of the ship. One of my stands is bright red: I used parts that are not part of the SSD kits, and this way it's easy to recognize them. For the final model these will be black. Another bottom-up view of the hull. The rear support used to be in the middle of the plates, but I had to move it to the back because the weight of the engines would be too much for the frame, bending or tipping the model.
  4. Yes, you will save bricks because the ship needs to be more shallow, but you could use the space to make a more sturdy support structure. So now it's more of a challenge to fit the structure into the hull. The jagged edge around the top city is needed to get the dimensions right. If you don't do this OR use a different size wedge (the right ine does not exist for my dimensions of ship) you will have a city that's too small in comparison to the rest of the ship. I will try to get the greebles to cover up this edge. Bottom line on the 2nd SSD: if you just want to add more detail to the greebling: just order the parts. If you also want to increase the size of the model: get the second UCS set. You'll also get an extra manual (you can probably sell that seperately), minifigs, stickers, ... On top of a heap of parts. Sidenote: I started construction on my model again today, hopefully I will have some new pics to post in a few days. I moved a support stand more to the back, started the engine bay and figured out a way to get the city in the way I want. I also measured it: total length is just 148cm at this time. Stay tuned...
  5. All I'm saying is that, with the standard greebles, you'll probably always get a pretty similar effect in detailing, making it pretty monotonous. That being said, I'm also going to try using the standard greebles for mine - at least initially. If you build the model using the flat base and just size it up to like 120-140% I'm pretty confident you'll be able to do it with 2 SSDs. The only problem you might encounter is that the standard engines will be too small in comparison to the rest of the model, so you might need to add some bigger engines. The slanted bottom needs more technic (ideally, but other bricks would do, too) to keep rigidity. The flat bottom in the standard model is like 2 or 3 layers of plates with a technic structure on top. This layered design makes a very stiff & sturdy base, and the bottom layer supports itself. If you make it slanted, you not only lose the extra rigidity of the flat bottom, but you need to suspend extra weight from the main technic structure as the (bottom) hullplates need to hang from it as well - without adding to the sturdiness of the whole. If that makes sense :) Also, to make the dimensions fit, the model needs to be a lot flatter than the TLG one. So you lose space for stacking bricks for the support structure. It's all a bit of a puzzle :) So far I have used some extra technic parts, but I'm not sure I will need them in the end. Other than that I'm counting on needing extra 1x16 technic bricks, some LBG wedge plates, bigger engines and probably some more small bits here and there.
  6. The original model uses a flat base, combined with technic bricks to create a rigid structure. If you want to have a slanted bottom of the ship you will lose this rigid structure. This will need to be fixed with a better Technic construction. Combine that with a 'slightly' larger model and you will need more additional technic than your Slave can offer. That's why I'd leave the slave alone. Personally, I'm for keeping my UCS models together, the normal models are parted out. Buying a second SSD is a great way to get loads of LBG parts - that's why I did it, too. However, as you say, the greebling on the standard model is pretty much the same around the model. So you will get very similar greebles. You will be able to get better results with other parts, which are not included with the SSD (binoculars, tools, wheels, phones, ... ). You will mainly get a lot of 1x1's w/ clip, for example. As for LDD: I suggest you try it. There's a thread on these forums with loads of LDD files for the original models, just start there and pull them apart / modify them. You'll gradually get better at using the software - it's not that hard.
  7. Thanks for your interest in my project. I've been very busy with various other things, so I haven't been able to set up everything to continue work on this project, but I hope I will soon be able to do so. This build is getting so big that I need to find a suitable workplace such as the dining table or something - my wife does not appreciate that. :) I'm still fully intending to complete the project, but it will be a MOC, I won't be making any plans for it. Unless it turns out to be spectacularly good in the end :) I bought my first SSD at full price, since I just had to have it. The second one came along at a very good deal (30% off) so I picked that up for this project. It was also convenient to me because I lacked the massive amount of plates needed to make the hull. This seemed like an easy way to get an assortment of bricks quickly. If, as you say, you don't have a lot of lego yet (mainly large plates and small pieces to do the greebles on top / bottom) it makes sense to buy a second set. If you're familiar with bricklink and just want to mod the original, I would recommend buying the missing parts that way. Also, I'm not a great builder - by far :) So don't aim to duplicate my masterpiece, as that may just turn out to be more of a masterpile (of bricks). I'm just seeing where I can get by using only the bricks in the 2 sets. However, it has become clear to me that I will need to add some more bricks to make it work (like 1x16 technic bricks). I fear 'just' 2x 10221 will not be enough. I would not part out a UCS set to feed other, similar sets - but that's just me. I also don't think the Slave 1 has a lot of pieces you'd need for the SSD, so I'd keep it together. Hope this helps, and good luck with your MOC. Obviously I will post any progress here. And if you have any further questions, feel free to ask!
  8. Very nice, I really like the R2 heads on the X-wings and the realism level on the trench surface. It would be better if it were a bit wider, but it's a beautiful MOC nonetheless.
  9. It's on the Lego store right now. I was thinking €200 was overpriced for this set. Guess what? It's €230... That's € 0,1365 per piece. I know I'll probably end up paying that, but... if this trend goes on I'll probably get out of the hobby pretty soon. http://shop.lego.com/en-BE/TIE-Fighter-75095
  10. Same here: I don't have another star destroyer so I had to have it. I liked the build and the techniques used. At standard pricing it is overpriced, however. Luckily they are being offered at decent discounts.
  11. I love this moc! Any idea how many parts you used?
  12. The head is a mini-moc in itself, I love it!
  13. I really like the Y-wing! I'm working on a larger version myself, but yours is excellent. The best I've seen at this scale...
  14. Beautiful moc! I'd buy this in a heartbeat if it became an official set. You've got my support, obviously!
  15. I never part out UCS sets, so I always sticker them. I generally do not sticker other sets. I think these sets deserve the respect to build them as they were intended, so with stickers.