nico71

Not sure about that, the rubber acts like a damper, not really like a spring. Even if I mounted vertically, the weight will compress it but the suspensions effect will not be very visible because of the small weight and driving force. The rubber liftarm are good in suspensions when twisting so ideal in axle crossing for instance. The best to reproduce here considering the physics is low damping suspensions so a soft spring or elastic band. Yes, the system part help a lot to have a smooth finish, mostly tile and curved parts to fill the hole, as well as thinking about the orientation of each parts, it truly make the difference at a low cost. But it requires to think about all the needed connections and the extra dimensions needed. You can not just put tiles on holes and voila, it is more subtil than that. What helps also the design here is the 1/2 stud constructions everywhere (mostly made with half connector/beam and half axle). In order to have correct alignement and design homogeneity. If I had built only on the LEGO grid, the design would have been bulkier "for sure 😎" Thanks TLCB team !

Basically the cabin in articulated on the front, and resting on the back, the trick is to have narrow connection and enough space to enable the wooble. It is not a true suspension in the way it can not compress, but for sure when you take a fast corner, the cabin move sideway. Thanks ! I personnaly prefer the US version, but this is my inclination for nose truck ^^ The scania is moreover more pleasant to drive with the short wheelbase. Oh, I have to look at it ! (Edit : too late ^^) Thanks for your message, indeed, I like this scale, so why not continunuing with other 1/30 truck for the lineup. I am thinking of classic US cabover like kenworth K100 or european ballast truck in 6 or 8x4 ! Proposing both version is now something I want to propose, it enables to choose the way you want to build and is upgradable, surely it is more difficult to handle the two models but I think this is great to propose that. Thanks for all you messages !

Following my 1/30 LEGO Technic American Heavy-Duty Truck, here is the European version, based on Scania design. Features drive, steering, a tri-axle trailer with fixed or steerable axle, openable doors and tilting cab. Available in motorized or manual version in a single download, all upgradable. Specs : Model inspiration : Scania S Serie (High Roof) Dimensions : 21cm (50cm with trailer) x 10cm x 15cm Øwheel : 37mm Two versions available : Manual or Motorized (Power Functions) Rear wheel drive with a L-motor and differential Small turning radius steering with overhang PFS Servo motor, rack and pinion Battery source compatibility : PFS+Buwizz 2.0 or 2.4GHz battery On manual version, steering operated by Hand of God on the back of the cab On manual version, working L4 engine under the cab All versions are included in a single package and are upgradable from and to each version Tri-Axle Trailer with fixed or automatic steering axle using linkage and a locking pin Landing gear on the trailer with friction gears Openable doors and tilting cab See in action : Design Process : After the good reception of the US Heavy Duty Truck, many asked for the European equivalent, so I did ! It shares the same philosophy with high playability and motorization upgradability with two versions. But with two improvements : a fake L4 engine on the manual version and the placement of the battery in the cabin for the motorized one. The drive is identical to my US truck, except there is only one axle on the rear, and so no suspensions. The differential can be swap for dark bluish grey 28t and 20t to have more speed but less controls. The steering is different, with the servo motor placed in front of the wheel, instead of behind, thanks to the set-back-axle configuration or european cabover. It enables to have space for the fake L4 engine on the manual version in place of the servo motor. The turning angle is the same but the wheebase being smaller, the turning radius is even smaller than the US truck. Thanks to the cabin shape, I placed the battery inside, behind the seats, which avoids to have cables between the truck and trailer, enabling an easy coupling/decoupling when playing. At a cost of a loss of traction on the driven axle, as it has less weight on it. The cabin can wooble sidely to mimic cabin suspensions and can be tilted as a whole in equilibrum, retained by chains to enable the wobble (comparing to a beams solution). A recessed cover panel replaced the battery on the manual version and provide a better access to the steering hand of god placed behind the cab instead on the top to improve stability during play. The trailer uses the same mechanism as my US truck (courtesy of TechniMocer for the original idea), but have a different exterieur design and colors, with longer platform, sideguards, front bulkhead and a different bumper, moslty based on Schmitz Cargobull and Krone trailers. To finish with the design, it is inspired from the Scania S Series high roof, with the iconic front grille and upper cab shape. Which has been recreated with a lof of half stud to get the correct proportion at this smal scale. I changed also some details like the grille and roof light, as well as some colors to fit the LEGO parts to have homogeneous design and color consistency. Links : Pictures and Instructions on nico71.fr Bill Of Material (Motorized) on rebrickable Bill Of Material (Manual) on rebrickable If you want to build only the Truck in motorized / manual version, or the trailer, you can download the dedicated Bill Of Material here in csv format, or watch online Truck Only (Motorized or Manual) Trailer Only (same for both version) Let me know what do you think about !

Thanks ! The scale is very good for that, a compromise between 1/35 (30mm tire) which is too small and the 1/25 (43mm tire) which is too big. I wanted to create the smallest creation to fit all I need to keep cost low and have maximum playibility regarding available space to play (I like big rig, but they need too much space to drive). That is why I came up with that scale (and because I like the look of the tire). In deed, all trailer axles have the same angle, for simplicity. At start I wanted to try to have different angle but as it is composed of linkage which cross on the center, it was not easy to do it without having a side which turn more than the other (linkage effect as you need to choose a side the operate primarily). I have then looking to different length of the knuckle but as the wheel are close together there is not enough space, or I can limit all the wheel angle to small angle but it doesn't make sense for playability if it is too close of the fixed axle setup. The best is to use rack and pinion with gearing but it create too much backlash and play so suitable for back driving. Thanks ! In fact you can not, first because there is no room for the bevel gearing near the servo (it occupy the whole cabin), secondly because there is also the control+ version, which do not have the same form factor and the cross axle in it, and lastly and more importantly, because you can not operate the servo motor by hand, it is too hard to rotate. So I prefer the approach with or without motor. But the true difficulty was to have the same attachment point or at least the same parts to attach all the various motors, there is only some leftover parts for the hog. A way to use the manual and motorized together is to use a system to disengage the servo motor like a clutch, as I did on my Rally Car V1 in 2013/ Thanks TLCB for the featuring !

Totally, but the aim was to share the most of the parts between the two versions in order they are upgradable by just adding the motors without the need to all dismantling. The speed is not that bad with a gear multiplication and tiny knob. It also enable to lock the model in position which is important especially in articulated steering when offloading (even by pushing by hand, it avoid an obstacle turning the steering). EDIT : I assume you talk specifically of the manual version

Thanks David for the updated edition ! I have not read yet but this is still a reference book for who are interested of want to create clock. Bravo for the works !

After some demands, I have released a manual version of the Werner Uniknick with the removal of the electronics, and adding a Hand Of God and ratchet mechanism for the winch. Both versions are included in a single purchase / download as they are very close, and are upgradable from and to each version. The Bill Of Material on Rebrickable have been updated for that with the adding of 14 parts for the manual version. Ghost view of the functions (manual version) : Link unchanged : On my website : https://www.nico71.fr/product/werner-uniknick/ On rebrickable : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-241304/Nico71/werner-uniknick/#details

Thanks for your comment ! Here is a picture of the real one : And some old footage : Indeed the articulated steering is not the best for trial truck, ultimately because the center of gravity are affected while turning and balancing. So as long as it remains on the support polygon, evertyhing is fine, but when it goes out, the model tip over easily. The steering made by linear actuator make it accurate but a bit slow, so yes, back and forth movement is tedious. I can put a servo steering directly on the articulation, with buwizz servo control, I can have both accuracy and speed, but I do not want to always power on the steering actuation during a turning to keep some power to the motors. I find the linear actuator more aesthetically accurate to the reality (hydraulic in real). The portal hub is very usefull to have the output at the same height of the chassis but being a 4x4, it block a lot on the root as shown on the video. A 6x6 will have a better performance here, or a 8x8 Tatra style with a very short distance between axle 2 and 3. I have not use the winch during the truck trial. I think it can help and we are authorized too, but to have some pulling power, it is geared down and so are slow, so the needed time to unwind, attach, wind, detach, wing will take more time that just try and retry to pass the obstacle I think. At final, this is primarily a reproduction of a forest truck, that I bring to a trial truck competition so not the best in term of performance as not intended too. Now I need to create sort of attachment to the front and/or rear ^^

When you need a compact fake engine, without metapieces like 2×2 cylinder or new cam and piston , this is not easy to create. You have to make a functional model, without being blocky and if possible nice to see, top of the cake if it is easily removable and not part of the structure. During my works on different cars and trucks, I have designed several compact fake engines in different configuration and building style. Today I propose them for free in a collection of instructions and 3D model. Feel free to build it, look how it is made and reuse it. Each engine has its particularity : Nissan 4 Inline (based on LZ20BT, used in my Nissan Skyline KDR30) : longitudinal, rear wheel driven, 2l axle piston, beam to hold them, brick-built crankshaft, easily extendable to 6 inline Cummins 6 inline (based on X15, used in my Western Star 6900 Twinsteer) : longitudinal, 2l axle piston, stacked 3l connector to hold them, liftarm-built crankshaft, easily extendable Citroen FWD 4 Inline, (based on 11D, used in my Citroen Traction), longitudinal, front driven (gearing on the front), 2l axle piston, stacked 2l connector to hold them (when the 3l connector is too expensive), brick built crankshaft, with half stud connector for the chassis mounted if you want to place as low as possible with a 12t/12t spur gearing CAT V8 (based on CAT3208, used in my 6×6 Offraod Truck and Kodiak), longitudinal, 2l axle piston, angled stacked 3l connector to hold them, liftarm-built crankshaft, easily extendable Honda 4 transverse inline (based on B16, used in my Honda CR-X Del Sol), transverse mounting, gear inside the liftarm-built crankshaft for front wheel driven car, 1/2 pin piston on 1/2 beam, extendable to 5 cyl, no more Instructions and 3D models : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-238705/Nico71/free-engine-collection/#details 😀

New instructions for a 14-year old model, the Integraph ! If you are allergic to maths, run ! A LEGO Technic replica of an Integraph, a mathematics instrument created in 19th century by Abdank-Abakanowicz, for plotting the integral of a graphically defined function. Original model (Coradi edition) : How it works : The grey chassis with wheels move in x axis, the input stylus along the y axis. The stylus is placed on a sliding sub chassis with a slot. On this slot come the carrier which is connected to the main orientation arm, so when the stylus move, the orientation of this main arm change. On this main arm, there is a sliding mechanism which hold the red carrier. This red carrier is build in a parallelogram way, in order the orientation of the two beams remains parallel. And on the extremity of this red device, the rotating beam is connected the contact wheel. So when the stylus input moves, the main arm rotates, and the orientation of this main arm is transferred to the contact wheel. The contact wheel is mounted on a carrier which can freely slide left right in y axis, and hold also the pencil with rubber band, plotting the output graph. The trick is that the contact wheel acts as a tangent wheel where its orientation will defined where it goes by acting on the carrier, being free of moving on the chassis. When the tangent wheel is aligned with y axis, the carrier does not move. When it is angled, the tangent wheel forces to displace laterally the carrier, and as its orientation depends of the y value, it moved along the differential curve and plotting the output graph. But why its integrate ? Because by definition, the inclination of the tangent of the integral curve -the slope or gradient- is equal to the ordinate of the initial curve to integrate (differential curve). If you look the machine in the reverse order, and follow a curve using the tangent wheel, the orientation of the tangent wheel define the gradient of the curve and so its derivative on each point which is the Y value. All the mechanical complication around are just to transform translation into rotation movement, and decouple each movement to be independent and not dependent of their position with the different slide and carrier. The applications of the integraph was numerous, calculate or divide areas, determine centres of gravity, calculate moments of inertia or stability, load and resistance, and solve algebrical equations like simple differential equation. Compared to a planimeter which gives the area result under the curve, the integraph give the representation of the function (primitive) so further calculus can be done. Therefore it was use in applied mathematics and physics, civil engineering with earth transport and bridge design, electricity with electromagnetism, shipbuilding, irons constructions, optics and ballistics with displacement and velocity determination for instance. Example of result ( f(x)=x and x²+y²=r²) These types of machines reached their peak with the mechanical differential analyser and balistic calculator in the twentieth century and then decreased in popularity with the advent of the computer. Video : Some additional resource : Animated Diagram Online and Displacement simulation (youtube) Wikipedia Page Mathsinstruments page about an integraph Bruno Abdank-Abakanowicz books from 1886 (author, chap 3. french) Integraph Page on Drawing Machine Instructions : https://www.nico71.fr/product/integraph/ Bill of material : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-237895/Nico71/maths-instrument-integraph/#parts For the model, I used a quite rare boat weight ref 73090. You can replace by any heavy part of about 50gr or use the alternate LEGO weight setup below (remove boat weight, add the displayed partlist, use the weightreplacement pdf). How to use it : Fix the paper, ideally A3 for both input and output, on the support with tape Place the integraph parallel to x axis, and the stylus on the smaller value in y. Place the tangent wheel carrier on the middle of its travel. Displace the integraph along the x value (horizontal left to right) while following the curve with the stylus (vertical y value) You can help the yellow sub chassis to move, as wheel as the tangent wheel carrier if it get stuck It is easier to be two to operate the machine (on for the x axis by holding the wheeled chassis traight, one for the y axis to follow the curve with the stylus) Ensure the surface is plane and the pencil touch it without too much force (do not lift the tangent wheel) If a part of the curve is missing, you can draw by hand if you have integrated a continuous functions

It is made in Chinese bricks but yes it is quite nice to build its own creation :)

Hello ! I have published the design secrets video about this creation. If you like deep dive into technique, have a look ! (english spoken, 13min) : Regarding the first use ofsplit connector + heavy cv join, ApachaiApachai told me he was inspired by xfeelgoodx, so I credit here for that brilliant idea : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-77951/xfeelgoodx/monster-jeep/#details

Thanks for the post and picture. But your axle is nowhere a 11l knuckle to knuckle axle, but a 13stud. This is why you have room to place the servo like that and you can use 5l suspensions arm without problem. Attention, the use you do of the suspension knuckle 6571 on the geared hub is problematic as this piece lack a bevel on a side, so it collides against the geared hub and make it force when steered. It is better to use the new 3l suspensions arm or the 5l in your case. Also, to me you can not use the daytona differential on your axle, but I can miss judge, let me know if this is correct as you stated it works. Have a look to the my axles on rebrickable, https://rebrickable.com/users/Nico71/mocs/ The constructions is different because of the constrain of 11l width, that is why I have waited to get the news 3l suspensions arm from the Bronco. If you want a similar axle as yours in 13l width, have a look to my Kodiak axle here : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-155168/Nico71/chevrolet-kodiak-c70-control-version/#details

Thanks ! If I fit the Daytona diff, it collides with the servo, so I think you raise by one stud the servo on your model, which is not possible here because on the top it should be room for the fake engine, so I have made to compromize. If you have link on your work, let me know. For the suspension arms, there are angled to have more ground clearance and better secure the cv join and axle inside the diff. It is not illegal to my understanding as it doesn't force on the part but use the natural play, but clearly "out" the grid system. Thanks !

A small post to let you know I issued 3x free instructions for 11l motorized front axle using the news 3l suspensions arms from the Bronco. Background : The release of the new 3L suspensions arm is a very good news for axle building. The previous 5l arms was too big to create short width axle with gearead hub. So it was mainly use for 1/17 truck with 62.4mm wheel. After buying a LEGO Bronco, I start making 11-stud width axle which opens a wide range of LEGO Truck. Indeed, for trucks which have large tires compared to their width (for instance 13R22.5 14R24 or 16R20 like heavy hauler, logging truck, offraod truck, or military one), it is mandatory to reduce the width of the axle by 2 studs to comply with the scale if using the 62.4mm wheel. So here are the result, a 11-stud wide motorized front axle for truck with big tires at 1/19-1/21 scale, with free instructions and 3D models. Available in 3 Versions : No Onboard Servo : Onboard PF servo : Onboard PU (control+) Version : Specs : – 11-stud width (knuckle to knuckle), 13cm wide with 62.4mm wheel – Geared hub + CV-join (only two needed, other are standard CV-Join) – Inclined underneath suspensions arms (can be considered as illegal but give better ground clearance and differential secured) – Equipped with a 28t simple bevel differential, No onboard version compatible with all the differential. Onboard version NOT compatible with red 28t of yellow 22t crown – Steering with rack and pinion, 4 studs distance from the knuckle axis to use 180° of rotation of the Servo motor without forcing on axle end stops – Suspended with 3 or 4 links (2+1 central or 2+2 lateral) + 2 springs with lateral movement constricted (can be replaced by harder if needed), no need of Panhard rod but you can add one for better stability – Simple chassis for suspension mounting included (can be used for car depending of the scale, like pickup truck) Downloads : PDF instructions and 3D model (Ldraw+Studio) for building convenience https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-236196/Nico71/11-stud-motorized-front-axle-no-onboard-servo/#details https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-234780/Nico71/11-stud-motorized-front-axle-onboard-pfs-servo/#details https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-236302/Nico71/11-stud-motorized-front-axle-onboard-pu-servo/#details Have a nice build with these, please credit me if you reuse the model in case of commercial use 👍 Also, for tracking, here is the dedicated topic to my 6x6 Offroad Truck released in May if you missed it :