SuperCow

I have build the truck. The chassis was straight forward. The cabin was the most work. I've tried to make a small time lap of the build process. Warning allot of photo's :D Photos Chassis: Cabin: Chassis & Cabin: Next will be the crane

I have checked a few chains on my models, all of them are the bigger gap (the 6 the poster mention) one side it says © and the other side says lego. Some chainlinks say both sides lego

I have cleaned the parts. I have checked the parts with peeron, And this is what I have leftover parts.(no spares) I'm pretty sure that I need them. Everything nice sorted, ready to build There 6 DkStone Technic Beam 4 x 0.5 Liftarm, only 4 of them have a different colour (In the picture on the right is the good colour) Its not the sun, only those 4 have a different colour, strange.

Well, I think I'm still old school and prefer the studded bricks more. As for stud-less it looks very nice, I only miss a part of the technicality. Older models (studded) are often more technical, more functionality. Like the steer in the cabin, in a older model it would steer also.

My best experience with cleaning models i do this. Its its really dirty I use the dishwasher. I put the Lego in a special bag, use a dishwasher tablet in it and wash it at 40 C degrees. But this truck isn't dirty enough, so I clean the blocks with my hand using a wet wipe. Here are some pictures from disassembling the truck. The crane: cabin: Chassis: spare parts:

Last week I finally got my 8436 truck. took me about a 1.5 year to get it at the right prize. As this model is from 2004, in my dark ages, there is no way getting a new one (I will not pay crazy prizes) As at looking at my local selling site (marktplaats) someone offered this set complete with box and spare parts. And I did a bid, and after 1 week he called me... YIPPEE... I got it. I got it for 45 Euro (about 62 dollar) that is very cheap, most of the time I see them go for about 60-75 Euro (often without box) At the first look its very complete, even the white boxes are inside. I got the model assembled, but its very dusty. And of course I want to build it myself :) So like tomacwhite topic, I'm going to disable it, and clean all to blocks and build it again. Ill make some photo's for the steps I do. Here is the box, with the inside boxes: An here here it the model itself: And the dust on it: More Photos here link Later ill put some more picture on, I already have it disassembled.

I use those kind of boxes as well for the smaller parts. Bigger parts I use plastic containers or shoe box :D Indeed an very impressive collection. I have a better idea for hiring a janitor will you adopt me

Nice review! I already was thinking of buying this set instead of the 8258 cranetruck. This set seems the a much more technic value then the cranetruck.

Here in the Netherlands the shipping costs are normal, compared to other online shops, so that's OK. The pricing ...well bit expensive, they use the same pricing as big toy shops as "bart smit" and "intertoys" But then you have shipping costs extra, so its cheaper to get it in a store. But I order my Lego at third party online sellers, its much cheaper. The Crane Truck 8258 costs 159,99 Euro (227 dollar) at S&H But by third party its 122,50 Euro (174 dollar) that's a big difference. And the second thing that bugs me a little is, when I buy exclusive Lego stuff, like the Power Functions Extension Wire 8886 is at S&H 3,99 Euro (5,66 dollar) When I change it to the UK (also Europa) the price is 2,45 pound, that is 2,85 Euro. That pisses me a bit off, why is Lego much cheaper at UK? there is no hidden tax. (no offence to the UK people here )

its the same code, but a different name: "Technic, Pin WITH Friction Ridges Lengthwise" bricklink link to buy: http://www.bricklink.com/search.asp?itemID...&colorID=11 These new types are easy to remove, ive replaced in all my old models that use the old type.

Yes, my nick comes from there Thanks for the welcome

The new on looks like this, and its still used: Mine 8865 had the new friction pins. And I suggest to replace all the friction pins with the new type, buying 200 or so only costs a couple of bucks

This topic inspirited me to make the power function - servo idea I had for a while. And guess what, i pulled it off I managed to make a video with my 2mp camera What do we see? At the top its the PF battery box and receiver. From the receiver there is a cable running to the breadboard with 4 diodes on them. With this I can read the state with a micro controller. And from the micro controller I drive the servo motor The servo is embedded in the Lego piece.

The black knob left under is for channel selection, I can select 1 channel at the time. The left stick can do up and down(speed)(x) The right stick can go both ways (x,y) I have it programmed so, if I use the bulldozer 8275, I use only the x, up and down, like the original remote. And for steering i can use the right stick for left, right

I few months ago I made a own power functions remote. The power functions protocol is open sources, so with my newly gained micro controller knowledge I made my own controller. Its almost the same in functionality as the normal remote, only mine can do pwm (like the train controller I have 16 steps) Only the difference between the train controller is, when the signal is lost it stops, like the normal controller. I used a rc remote from a crashed helicopter I added 3 buttons, 2 for reverse, and 1 for channel selection And I removed the antenna and added a IR-led I used a ATMEGA 168 micro controller to read the knobs & switches and translate it to Lego protocol and send it out with the ir led. The programming language is based on the arduino project. The lego power functions library for the arduino I have made available: source code new link sourcecode

solenoid switch has 1 major drawback. I have thought about it aswell, but the drawback is this: With a normal switch you have 3 positions, up, middle and down. But with a solenoid you only have up, and down. With a normal switch, when you have the desired hight, you put the switch in the middle it stands there. But with solenoid, the cylinder only got to the max up or max down. So in the "rest" state the air is not blocked in the cylinder, so the cylinder will go down again. I have been thinking to solve this by using a servo motor on the Lego switch, and use a small micro controller to control it with the power functions

Hello, I'm SuperCow I'm from the Netherlands I'm back to Lego after 8 years or so, I started about 2 years ago again. In the last 2 years I have been adding some models again to my collection. Well I have bought more Lego now, then I had when I was a kid :D brickset As far I'm only interested in Technic models. And I still like the studded beams more then stud less beams.