BraselC5048

OK, have some, tried it, and the printing can be scratched off under some circumstances. For sealing: Would Testor's decal fixative spray (applied to the sticker sheet) be an acceptable choice? I don't intend to get it wet, but the printing scratching off could be a somewhat important issue.

Simply put, I'd both like to print stickers that I designed (based on scans of official stickers), and copies of existing ones. (I'm not going to pay 20 dollars for a sticker sheet with a single sticker I need 5 of, so I made several scans before application.) I know about the clear background issue, and plan to print on white sticker paper. My basic question is - what kind/which brand of sticker paper should I use? It would need to be close to official stickers and Lego bricks, especially in terms of surface finish/glossiness, and in terms of not peeling over time. (My try a few years ago is peeling up now. Color matching I can deal with via photoshop adjustments.) Thanks.

Pretty much as the title says, has anybody heard of somebody who came up with a mechanism to make a MTT unfold like it's supposed to on the movie version? Or somebody who modified theirs to do that? I'm considering modifying a MTT that way, and I'm stuck for ideas.

Nope, they don't have it, I'm looking for stickers for the old USC Naboo starfighter. Do they do custom work? Any other places?

I'm hoping to order some custom stickers (high quality) to replace the crumbly ones that come with the old set I'm building. (I currently have a set of non-crumbled and unapplied stickers, along with scans.) The thing is, I don't know where to go to get them. Stickers, not waterslide decals. They would also need to be pre cut, like official stickers, (as in 'I don't have to cut them out with scissors'), since there's no way I can cut the smooth curve on the edges of several of them. Anybody know of a place? Thanks.

I'm wondering if anybody knows of a reasonably close paint color match for preferably either old light gray or old dark gray, although if not, either of the new grays would work too. Hopefully something that also comes in a spray can, since I can't brush paint with most paint brands (or really anything that comes in a glass bottle). I'm intending to paint some old parts that only come in clear colors into gray.

Judging by your signiture, do you happen to be in the business of doing exactly that? It looks that way, and I know my way around image formats and scanning pretty well, but there's no way I could create a vector image, just at most a 900 DPI one.

I'm rebuilding the 2002 UCS Naboo Starfighter, and I've got a brand new sticker sheet to replace the old crumbled away stickers. Before I put them on, I'm wondering about the best way to preserve them so they don't suffer the same fate as the previous ones. I've already scaned them as a .tiff at both 300 and 600 DPI. I've heard about Tamyla clearcoat, but since there's a ton of chrome on the model, I can't apply it after the stickers are applied. Does it work if I apply it to the sticker sheet before they are put on, (and would the stickers go on if I do that?), and is Tamyla clearcoat a good idea in the first place? I know exposure to UV light is the problem, but I also wan't to display it. One potential spot is in the northeast corner of a room with a single west facing window near the southwest corner. So far I haven't seen if direct sunlight goes that far into the room during the summer, but the blinds on the window are closed all the time anyway. Another posibility is on top of a tall dresser (2/3rds the height of the window) against the wall a few feet to the north of the window. Anybody know of any other tricks for making the stickers last?

So there's no way at all to make a slightly/moderately dulled chrome part like new again? Some of my parts in good condition you can see a reflection in, but the rest are worse off, and I'd like to clean them up.

I'm wondering how to polish some LEGO (non-aftermarket) chrome parts so they shine like new .There's some sticker residue to remove from one of them as well. I don't want to risk damaging them, so I'm hoping for some expertise. Thanks.

I happen to have the head off of Professor Archibald Hale, 3626bpb0531, Minifig, Head Glasses with Brown Sideburns, Moustache and White Pupils Pattern, but with the hair in dark orange instead of brown. It's also somewhat worn, with small portions of the glasses being heavily worn. I didn't realize it was a misprint until I ordered one to replace it that wasn't so worn, but then I realized it when the replacement was brown. (I got lucky on the first one I ordered.) Is this a common misprint, or did I get lucky, or is it a result of wear, and possibly fading from sun exposure? If it is a common misprint, then I'm hoping to get another one without the wear. In any case, he's now wearing a dark bluish gray suit (crack along one side) and some dark orange hair, and makes an ideal postmaster.

The printing (or really, actually having in the molding) of a couple of recessed panels, in reddish brown and a couple of other colors, of that piece is exactly what I was thinking of. Thing is, they haven't done it yet, and the flesh door isn't the right molding in the first place.

I wondering (although I think the answer is no) if anybody non-offical-LEGO has decided to make a piece of an interior door that fits the standard 4x6 frame. Right now the only options are various clear glass and with a 4 pane window, and neither works well for interior doors. Seems like it would be the perfect opportunity for somebody who makes custom pieces to make one, and yet I can't find anybody who has. So has somebody decided to make one, or is it still a gap waiting to be filled?

Thanks. For comparison, this is what the fire engine started out as: Anyway, the fire brigade has had a few improvements made. Out front, the previous dead looking tree that always fell over has been redone: Inside, the main new feature is a hose drying rack on the left side: From the back: On the right side, just a few new details (jack, toolbox), and some storage cabinets. (yes, that's the best image I could get.) And what would a 1930's fire station be without some 1930's firemen: Firemen on the truck, ready to put out a fire:

I wasn't happy with the 11930's fire truck from the Fire Brigade, so I rebuilt it a while ago, and now I've rebuilt it again. The left side: The pump inlets/outlets have completely redone, assisted by new parts lego has put out recently. The seats look better in dark gray. The right side: The fire extinguishers have been moved to the cab, making room for hoses in the hose bed (why didn't lego put hoses in there in the first place?): New to the current rebuild are the staggered hoses in the hose bed, made with some 1x2 tiles and 1x2 jumpers. The previously non-existent pump controls are now in the rear of the cab: To prevent seeing into the wheel well from the cab, there's now some details under the front of the cab, as well as new gauges on the dashboard: Pictures of the fire brigade to follow.

Thanks. Unfortunately, lego doesn't make full glasses The problem is, that would leave the hotel with only 2 rooms, and one almost 3 times the size of the other. Personally, I think most lego modulars don't have enough 'stuff' to stay in business, from not enough stuff for sale in the Grand Emporium and the Green Grocer, to only 6 seats in the move theater. Frankly, the hotel seemed to work better with a full 3 rooms. But yah, landings take up a lot of space. That's why I had to make the green grocer all 1 apartment (likely the store's owner), rather then put in apartments. There simply wasn't enough room.

The cafe corner, out of the box, completely lacks anything inside other then the stairs and railings. So, I gave it one. I first gave it one a few years ago, then rebuilt it heavily recently. Well, it's called the Cafe Corner, so here's the Cafe on the first floor: I'd like to call attention to the slightly rotated chairs, and the pastry on the counter. From another angle: It's worth pointing out that this isn't quite the most posh cafe, and they serve liquor here. Closeup of behind the counter: Upstairs, the sign says HOTEL, so there needs to be a hotel upstairs, so here it is, the lobby of the Great West hotel: On the left is the office, with check in counter, on the right is a room for guests. Sorry about the blurry pics, my camera doesn't seem to like this building. Photo editing I'm great at, but not photography. There's an address book on the check in counter, a newspaper on the table in the back, and a calendar on the wall. Drawers on the left a cabinet in the center (it has surface relief, but it doesn't show up in the pictures), and a safe on the right. There's brass (pearl gold) detailing on all the tables, but it doesn't show up. The room in pretty basic, with a rather plain bed, (sheets pulled back), a small end table, and small table and a chair: Upstairs are two more rooms, all the same: Just to illustrate why the 3rd floor of the cafe corner is such a pain, in addition to having small rooms inside: you have to take the roof apart, and fiddle with the turntable attaching the tower, to do just about anything involving the interior upstairs. All in all, not bad considering that the cafe started out as a blank baseplate.

If you don't mind me asking, since I'm making a similar building, how do you ever get the angled corner to work? It seems to be 10 wide, with hinges, but on my model, it doesn't quite fit - the length of 10 studs is a little off. Did you just have the corner not fit properly? I can't think of anything else that would work.

Ok, I've seen a picture of what appears to be a chrome silver 1x2 tile. And I have a chrome 1x2 tile in a weird silverish goldish chome. I'm pretty sure I got it from 1999? space themed set, making it one of the oldest bricks I own. Thing is, brinklink doesn't seem to think that exists. Am I missing something? (I intend to use a few to make a mirror).

I noticed the trend of corner-corner-straight, and private-private-public, a while ago. I pretty darned sure that there's going to be a post office and a police station in those. As for what the police station will look like, I'm probably going to be disappointed, because I already have a strong feeling of what it should look like. About fire station height, or maybe closer to pet shop height, in light gray with dark gray accents, 3 floors, perhaps a little grim looking, depending on your taste. Columns out front, likely against the front wall, going up two or more floors, heavy cornice, with "POLICE" in a brick-built sign centered at the top, light gray with dark gray lettering. Grooves or dark gray accents for a facade of large stone blocks. Basically, design wise like this, in light gray, with dark gray accents, and a third floor: As for the post office, I hope they break their trend, since it would make a great corner building. Late 19th century ornate style, a little gothic. Likely in white. Basically this (although it would somehow have to be shortened): Boy am I going to be disappointed when they don't look just like that.

When I build a modular buildings set, it isn't long before I look for something to improve. With the Green Grocer set, the second and third floors clearly needed an interior, since there wan't really anything in there. So, I gave it one: This is an overview of the second floor. With the fancy curtains in the windows, that clearly needed to be a bedroom, which meant some walls needed to be added. In the corner by the stairs is the bathroom, and in the lower right is the kitchen/dining area. Closeup of the kitchen: On the left is the sink, counter and oven/stove, with cabinets above. Closeup of the bathroom: And finally the bedroom: The bed fits 2 minifigures, held in place by those studs on the bed. The third floor is one big room: The radiator got relocated: And my personal favorite, the bookcase, with a radio on top: There weren't any changes made to the first floor, since it already had a decent interior, and the outside was unchanged. (note to moderator - do I need to make the pictures smaller?)