BarrySteer

I have avoided all the problems by just doing my own DIY metal track. I am using rails using aluminium bar 10mm x 3mm in 3 metre lengths that i can get here in Australia from any hardware shop or metal dealer. The rail slots into the 1x1 clip on top lego part. So far I have straight sections, and can do curves of any fixed and variable radius. Progress is slow due to lack of money but eventually I will be free of limited geometry and get to have points on curves and double crossover points that are only limited by imagination and space. The tricky cross over bits can all be 3d printed. I started this as I found the straight 9v rails I couldn't get and would eventually get to expensive being discontinued. ME models at the time didn't look like they were manufacturing or were going to get kickstarter funding and battery IR control with plastic track is limiting. What I have tried to do is stick to the KISS principle by doing away with a rail profile which makes bending the bar to a radius difficult without specialised equipment. The eventual goal is Digital command control of all the trains.. I am also making copies of the wheels in metal to adapt the power functions motor and doing a power pickup bogies. The other problem of why i am also not using lego track is the radius is to tight and the trains too long when modeling trains in minifig scale and 8 stud wide. So it's just easier to not use power functions or 9v lego track as both have their problems, although you need deep pockets to have a large layout and the space but a garden railway is a possibility. https://www.flickr.com/photos/128316127@N08/with/15389451003/