Shazam12

Really like the look of this set!

Hi Andromeda, Can you help me out on another electronics subject? No option to send a PM on this board, so I'm hijacking this thread here :-). Was trying to get a turning loop into action for the 12v track. I've found a nice schematic on this site: http://www.nproject.org/nl/algemene-tips/automatische-keerlus-met-een-relais-weerstand-en-twee-reedcontacten-voor-analoog-2-rail-systeem.html I'm not too good at electronics, could you spell out for me what components to use and how to hook them up? This is a nice automated setup where the trains can keep running instead of stopping and do a pole reversal.

Buhler does not have anything for the 12V motors anymore, that is a thing of the past. Have been told that brushes and commutators can be sourced from elsewhere but have no leads on that.

Ok, I was concerned with the + and - side of the magnet. With the ones you pointed out the poles will be on top and bottom when glueing the magnet in. Is that ok, thought the poles should come out front to back. Kinda cool, gold plated magnets. Lego gettin´ some bling on.

Hi Andromeda, if I would buy some magnets from supermagnete.de, which ones would I need to order for application in this switch motor application? Can't see what size or sort would fit.

Great, keep me posted if you find a solution and parts.

Good morning, Yes this is a common failure of the 12V motor. The motor has run hot and as a result the commutator started melting. Underneath the 3 copper plates that form the commutator is plastic so that has been deformed. Also, you will notice that the carbon brushes have been sheared off. I would also check the nylon gears on the axles to see if these have been damaged, which happens often. To repair this, it will require a new commutator and brushes. I've been told they can be found at certain train hobby shops, but I've not been able to track them down. I don't know why these motors run so hot that the plastic melts, anyone got ideas on that?

Ok interesting! Do you have a picture of the coil former, before being wound? For the connector tubes where the plugs are inserted you used the 3mm brass rod?

Wow that is great! Did you make the coils from scratch, or is it a standard part from somewhere?