talltim

As far as I know 162 and 7740 are the only train sets that had much yellow in the locomotives. There are various other locos that could possibly be described as Krokodil-ish, but not in yellow

A nice loco, and normally I like the utilitatian look, but in this case I prefer the sister loco 11852

I'm not sure why you think it should be shorter, to me it looks like a Vossloh G1700BB A G1700 is 15 metre-ish long, while, for example the DB V160 family of locos (which the yellow loco from 7939 looks like without its pantograph) is 16 metres long. However this isn't to criticise your model, which it nice work.

Sorry Dan, I should have thought of yours, I commented on your Flickr pic! Your construction breakdown shot is really informative too,

Jeff Christner, a long time ago (1999?), used Kadees on his small Lego switching layout. Unfortunatly his site is no longer online but a copy of his page from another defunct site can be seen at the Wayback Machine http://web.archive.org/web/20080423110002/http://www.ozbricks.com/jediagh/a_trains/projects/kadeeswitches.htm One thing to consider is that you don't want he couplings to be able to pivot from side to side like Lego ones do. The Kadees do not have the self centering effect produced by the magnet.

I have a set of wheels like this that I purchased new from Lego Supplimentary (the yellow bit in the back of the catalogue) back in the eighties. I bought two packs and one had the red pins. I should have complained at the time but its probably a bit late now! I assume it was a manufacturing error.

And why can't you?

The car I bought (can't remember which one it was) had one bley wheelset!

I assume they found the original design wasn't strong enough This pic shows the difference, I suppose it could make a difference if the 'hanging down' bit got in the way of other elements I hadn't realised the sealed type had been around since 2006, where has the time gone!?

Both those Swiss locos are Vosslohs (or MaKs, Vossloh's previous name)

There are usually some spare of the smaller parts in sets The provisional Bricklink inventory shows most of your spares as spares (I've not compared in detail) http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=10219-1 There does seem to be more than I would expect, are some to allow for motorising the set?

A few of the comments have mentioned an 'older' or 'classic' style of building here, but I'm not certain what you mean? I do think that all the vehicles are very nice, well proportioned and with a good consistancy in detailing. Oh, and I do like the antenae handrails...

I agree with Matt (Jaster). My only issue with it is jealousy!

I have to say, the wheel placeholder parts do throw the proportions off a bit, but apart from that its a great model. I realy like the cabside cutout shape, whats the part you've used for the lower curve? Edit: just worked it out, its the new PoP half arch upside down

I'm going to ask on the http://www.brickish.org forum Tim

Why a class 92? apart from the fact that it is electric and has two cabs, its pretty much unlike it. not enough wheels, wrong shape and wrong colour! I thought a DB 218 too, but one sold to H F Wiebe http://www.flickr.com/photos/kbs478/5476526594/in/pool-v160 Just remove the pantograph!

In the early days of hood diesels in the US, common practise was to run long hood forward. The reasoning behind was was crash protection for the crew, this was in line with the design of steam locos where the boiler set the crew a fair way back. Gradually the thinking changed so that visibilty was considered more important so short hood forward has become the norm. Also the short hood has become lower (original hood units had tall short hoods). The Norfolk and Western Railway and the Southern Railway were the last to keep long hood forward. Some locos have controls set up for one direction only, other have controls for both directions. As has been pointed out, using the locos in multiple means that there can be a cab at both ends of a lash-up. If, for some reason the loco's are couple nose to tail (elephant style) then they sometimes get turned as a set, on a wye, which are far more common in the US than the rest of the world. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_hood http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wye_(rail)

I really like your model, very good selective compression and it really captures the features of the real thing well. I went to Norway last summer and travelled behind a Di4 from Åsen to Trondheim. I also like your viaduct running in front of the poster of Norwegian landscape and the clock on your station.

There were two versions of the Santa Fe loco set (10020), one with the limited edition certificate and number tiles and one without. There was no limited edition BNSF set (10133)

Sureley it would look more like an O scale layout?

Although it doesn't offer much scope for shunting/switching (does anyone do that on their Lego layout?) it does have a pretty long train and looks realistic (ish)

While I understand your point, I can't help feeling you are 20 years too late! With regards to point geometry, I think that the 9V/RC/PF version is better although neither is perfect. I'm sure someone has built a 19V to 12V track converter section out of Lego and posted it here, but I can't find the thread. Edit, roamingstudio has posted the link in the post above, while I was searching!

Really like that, it looks like they have had to build the container transhipment depot into a small space in a valley bottom.

Realy like this, especially the sideframes of the trucks and the windows in the neds of the cab.

A very interesting post, I'll have to come back and read in more depth later