Ximbary

;) If you are looking for powerful creations then you will love what i am going to do with those 256 rubber thingys I have linked in my first post here :P I will post some pictures when its done. Also i really love your solution. But I think you misunderstood me a little: I will only use the servos to operate the switches. I wont use them to steer.

You just have to be cautious when purchasing, programming and using RC motors. Then you wont kill your legos. Of course.. if you connect a motor with 10x more torque then it will rip your legos apart. But you can easily find a motor with twice the power of a XL motor and half the size/weight. About the axle attachment to the motor you could try the following: Drill a hole crosswise through the axle of the motor (yes.. risky. Choose a proper drill). Then hollow out a short lego axle by drilling lengthwise. Also drill another hole through the lego axle crosswise. Now slip the hollowed lego axle over the motor axle (with glue) and press a very short metal pin of the perfect size through the crosswise hole (also with glue). That should do the trick. But you definitely need a motor with a thicker axle. all the dimensions are usually listed clearly on the RC shopping sites. All the less risky ways tend not to be strong enough.

Yes a 3D printer would be the next step.. but I dont know anybody who has such a thing plus I neither have enough time nor enough spare cash for another machine. I will simply create some lego piece out of the named hardware and some original lego pieces glued together. I will create something like this: - 2 switch modules made out of some lego piece, servos and lego switches. - 1 receiver module made out of some lego piece, receiver/esc combo and the ESC 3,7V lipo. - 2 lipo modules made out of some lego piece and a very light and small 11,1V lipo, connected to a lego extension wire (to fit the switch modules) So I can freely arrange the receiver and the 2 switch modules. I should be able to get that for under 100€. I already have a very expensive dual lipo charger with balancing stuff. Maybe in a few years, when I have more spare cash and when 3D printers are better and cheaper I might try to create this stuff in order to sell it on ebay. With servo perfectly embedded into some 3D printed parts, fully compatible with lego I should get a lot of customers.. theoretically.

Thanks for all the replies. I think I am going to try this: Super light 11,1V Lipo -> Lego electrical switch -> Lego Motor This setup for every motor. Now: Tiny 3,7V Lipo -> RC Receiver/ESC -> Micro servos -> lego switch 1 servo for each switch so that I can forward, idle, reverse each switch. Good that I only have to modify switch cables instead of motor cables. Anybody knows if the switches have a thermal protection? These are the products I have in mind. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=19325 <- 1S lipo battery http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=18822 <- ESC/Receiver combo http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=29547 <- Mega nano servo All in all only only 21,8 grams(!!!) additionally. Thats all I need to control the switches. I think I really will try this. Even without an additional lipo I will be able to directly connect a lego battery box to 2 switches without ANY restrictions at all.

I have been searching for this for quite some time and couldn't find much information (except for the batterie). I am searching for a very simple way to use lego motors, but real RC components, like a 11,1 Volt Lipo and also a non-lego receiver/esc. Has anybody had any sort of experience with that? The official Lego electronics are just so heavy and clumsy that the one and only challenge is to find a decent balance between weight and power. It is so annoying to have a vehicle with 8 XL motors fail (because you can't run fast enough and the sunlight blocks the signal of the very useless IR remote). I even went through the trouble of purchasing a NXT only to get the link between a 2,4ghz remote and my PF elements. The additional weight was.. disastrous. I really want to get rid of those receivers. I can do some basic soldering. I have some advanced RC experience but from an entirely different dimension.. I guess my 8S 6500mAh Lipo would blow the lego components through a concrete wall.. :D Also i have no idea how you would power two independend motors (not servos!) with 1 esc... I have been thinking about some (lego?) switch, in between a direct connection of a lipo and the lego motor, and the switch being controlled by a standard RC servo, connected to a RC receiver (with a tiny battery). But that sounds kinda clumsy too.. :( I am using buggy motors, XL motors, servos etc. These are the Lipos I had in mind: http://www.maxamps.c...30-111-Pack.htm (see the incredible weight!) 39 grams! Also I now officially inform all of you, that I have ordered 256 of these: http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=45590. I will soon post some pictures of my insane plan for world domination ;)

I ordered mine out of luck on the 1st of August. I had no idea when the set was going to be released. I just thought the 1st August could be about right, so i contacted the customer support and they sent me a link to order one of the sets. They also told me that they are CURRENTLY out of stock and that they cant keep up with the orders, so there will be a small delay. Mine was shipped on the 5th of August. I will leave it untouched and sell it on ebay in 2 years or so :D Sorry but at least i am honest. Also i ordered only 1 :P Very curious how much it is going to be worth. Also i really would LOVE to know how many of the normal sets they usually produce.. like the star wars UCS stuff or the other big lego technic sets.

looks fantastic but arent 2XL motors a little too weak? those insane polish freaks usually use 4 buggy motors for their truck trial trucks! also i find this 26sec videos pretty annoying. id prefer one long video that shows everything. and why are you using 2 recivers? isnt it only steering + drive? or did i miss something? keep up the fantastic work

i dont have a working camera right now, this is all i can provide at this point: all you have to do is to connect the 2 metal ends of this HL5L thingy as in this picture. i have never done solding before but i got it done with an extremely cheap solding gun (or whatever its called) on 4 battery boxes without fails within half an hour. its really a piece of cake.. but you have to take care that the solding is done rather thin or you will not be able to push the button of the battery box towards the right position anymore.. :D

loool you asking how much the explosion will damage your other legos? seriously? :D the batteries will explode (or go up on flames) if they are shorted, which means: trying to connect 2 PF battery boxes for example.. or using modified cables.. but ONLY if you modified your PF battery boxes as in the pictures above. if you dont modify them then you can do whatever you want because there is a thermal protection. if you stick to normal lego parts then it is most unlikely that you shorten them without noticing. btw i just did this with one of my battery boxes and the results are INSANE. this is SICK. ive built a very basic vehicle with 1 battery box and 2 buggy motors and 1 V2 reciever. its faster than my car with 8 XL motors...

thank you very much guys :) today my buggy motors arrived and i reaaaally need to remove this overload protection thingy because my car keeps struggling after like 3 meters.. thanks again that really helped me a lot!

i googled for a while now but all i can find are videos showing the results of the removal but there is no guide of how to actually do it. can somebody help me out please? i am using the normal new PF battery boxes (as in the 4x4 crawler).