ilcanty

Hello Toastie! Thank you for your suggestions No, I didn't modified the switches, only removed the "(yellow) lever". I tried different switch supplier (original or not) without any issue. In all the switches model i tested, the standard friction gear allowed the switch to effectively change without "clacking". If you want a more soft friction, you can carefully open the gear and use some sandpaper to lower the friction points. Micromotors : I used both 2x3 and 2x4 without problems. The torque is quite interesting, to give you an example, this cargo crane use a micromotor to rise and lower the container without issues (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wBi4-0NAI4). Why the friction gear: I used it mainly to protect the motor because it may be hard to know "when" the switch effectively changed position. In my automation I engage the motor for about 3sec: without a friction gear that the motor will get stuck maybe for half a second; with the friction gear, the worst case is that the gear make some "clacking" and that's it. Another information: as far as the battery discharge, the motor took more time to effectively "switch": - full power : less then 2seconds - 40% power (about) : less then 3 seconds This is why I set the interval for the higher response time, to be sure that the switch effectively change position, and I let the friction-gear manage the "overtime" when i've full power batteries. Next steps: * manage the 3-way switch => how to determine the central position accurately?) * double crossover switch => more resistance because you move basically 2 switches with 1 motor. best regards!

Hello, don't know if it can help, but actually i discovered that standard electric wire 1x2,5mm fits perfectly in the 48729, 2555 or 15712 part. I've used a black wire to make a handrail in my train turntable platform. Here the platform with the handrail : https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54080283542_cf5c9ab618_c_d.jpg Here the control room with the handrail : https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54081406098_4a28dc4d1c_c_d.jpg Here the wire on a locomotive : https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54080338077_393647d40f_c_d.jpg You can remove the copper inside the tube to make it more flexible, or keep it to model hard-to-reproduce shapes. Hope this helps, any comment and suggestion is appreciated!

Hi! this is my first post, hope to respect all the rules. Actually I've automated my switches using a little different technique: I've used LEGO-compatible Powerfunctions micro-motor (2x4 studs) and a technic friction gear to avoid motor overload when the switch is at the end of its "switch". Flickr album : https://www.flickr.com/photos/201727625@N08/albums/72177720321362045/ Here a photo of the assembled "automation box" : You could connect my MOC to a standard powerfunction receiver, but i've implemented a little circuit to drive my automation (you can see it installed in a couple of images and working in the videos). The circuit allow me to drive the switch over WIFI connection, and drive the direction light too. If you want to see 2 automated switces working together on a complete track, here a youtube video : https://youtu.be/LO3hQh2Fjj0 Any suggestion or comment is appreciated!

Ah ah ah.... I get the fair irony I know we're a lot! Don't know exactly why, but we're in good company :-) Thank you very much for your warm welcome!

Hello everyone! I’m ilCanty, I've rediscovered LEGO in 2016 and now I am definitely an AFOL! My main interest is the LEGO trains theme. When I’m not building with LEGO, I work in IT, which often inspires me to combine my technical skills with my LEGO hobby. I’m also a dad, sharing the joy of building with my young daughter. I’ve been reading the forum for a while now, but I finally decided to register and join the conversation. I’m excited to connect with fellow LEGO enthusiasts!