MisterCreators Custom MOCs

Hello Everyone, I've got an update regarding the RC Box Mini: All the functions I wanted are now included. There now is a low voltage cut-off and the option of combining an RC Box Mini with a second Mini as a slave (without receiver) and accessing all 16 channels. I am also working on expansion modules that can be used to convert the servo ports into PF ports, as well as light modules. Best regards Adrian

Hello, I'm not quite ready to share all this information. The AFHDS2A Protocol is a FlySky Protocol. It stands for Automatic Frequency Hopping Digital System (2A or 3 has to something with the Version) and it is not open, so It's really hard to find any information, how it really works. That's why the only ready-made component I use is the receiver. The "Bind" Button is located on the Bottom of the RC Box. All of this is outdated and is not going to be used anymore. The PowerFunctions Connectors in the middle have the 2 extra golden contacts. These are 5V and signal contacts So you had the VCC and GND of the PF connector which was 12V and 10A and then one of the extra pins was +5V to the GND of the PF Connector so noting to special. The adapter then had the same contacts on the underside and a small PCB inside that then led the contacts out to the front. So when you put the Adapter to one of this special ports you could hook up a Servo to the Adapter as shown in the video. If you hook it up to one of the dual channels, then nothing would happen, since there is no 5V available. But as I already said, this is really outdated since it was hard to manufacture for me and generally really impractical to use. So all the following RC Boxes (including the RC Box Mini) will have the Servo ports exposed on the top or somewhere else without the need of any adapter.

Hello Everyone, last weekend I was able to test my RC boxes on an Exhibition in our Area. I had one RC Box running continuously for almost three exhibition days and two others running sporadically without any major problems. Nevertheless, I sadly found another tiny problem that I'm currently still working on which caused the PF motors to have slightly more power in one direction, than the other. I'm pretty sure that I was able to identify the source of the problem and that I'm able to solve it. Currently, I'm waiting on new PCBs with an upgraded chip and even more functionality, these should also be able to solve the motor problem. If they work as intended, and I don't find any more problems, I will start to take pre-Orders for testing, hopefully in the next few weeks. But there will be another post about that when the time comes. So it remains exciting... Stay tuned for further updates. Best regards, Adrian

I used all these basic components (and H Bridges) to make the motor Controller. I wrote the code to decode the Signal from the Receiver as well as the code that runs the motor controllers and tells them when and how to accelerate/reverse That seems to be a problem with the "basic" pistol remotes. With more advanced ones (even Pistol ones) you can choose which input it mapped to which channel. E.g. I got an Absima cr4t Ultimate (4ch pistol remote) which cost about 120 € where you can select which channel is mapped to the steering wheel, or even copy the signal to more channels. My other remotes that I use for scale models all support that channel mapping. I'm extremely limited by the space. So sadly it's not possible to add all the channels as servo channels.

Hi, the PF ports are not physically reversible as this won't work with the size of this box, furthermore it would destroy LEGO Servos as soon as they are plugged in the wrong way around. So I rely on the fact that most decent remotes should be able to reverse the ports on the transmitter end. Yes the PF Ports are separately controlled, so you have 8 independent Channels you can use. That should be no problem if the controller is an AFHDS2A controller, but you will not be able to use the 4 Servo ports since they are CH 5-8 and this is not configurable. I probably expressed that incorrectly, the receiver is contained in the RC Box, but the binding button can be accessed from the bottom. When I'm going to sell these (small batch production) you will be able to choose which version you get. So you can choose to get the AFHDS3 version, then you will get the RC Box which is configured for the AFHDS3 protocol (that means, that the AFHDS3 reiceiver is installed in the Box, as well as the telemetry). For now the AFHDS2A Version will not support telemetry, but I'm currently working on that. Yes, this can be used, but you won't be able to use the full potential of the 8 channels. So you will lose the Servo channel 7 & 8, I don't know if I get the question right. I designed the Motor controllers myself, but the Motor Controller itself consists of normal off the shelf parts (capacitors, microcontrollers, resistors...) Yes, the receiver is the separate, but soldered to the main pcb. So it is not possible to change the receiver (thats why you get the option to choose between the two different protocols). Maybe in the next few days, since I'm currently not at home. By the Fact that you are using a pistol remote I would guess, that you are mostly building cars and fast models (I checked on your YouTube :)). Keep in mind, that the Buggy motors don't really like 3S (the RC Box can do 2s as well as 3s). I did notice, that the Buwizz motors don't have a problem with 3s, while all other Buggy Motors just tend to thermal shut down every few minutes. For that use case, the separate brake function of the RC Box also might come in handy, since you can enable the brake function for the driving motor(s).

I edited the post so that it now includes the images. Thanks for the Suggestion, I choose to use my own website instead :)

Hello everyone, it's been a long time since the last update on my RC Box, so I want to share the newest progress with you. I worked on the RC Box Ultimate until May and tested it at an exhibition in our area. In doing so, I discovered serious problems, which I spent several weeks trying to find and fix. I realized that this would not be possible without a complete redesign of the box. So I took some of the suggestions on board and first focused on the smaller version, which I redesigned from scratch, changing everything and making it better. Which then led to the RC Box Mini: The RC Box Mini measures 5x4x3 studs (LxWxH) and has 4 PF and 4 servo channels, i.e. 8 in total. It has inverted studs on the bottom so that it can be attached to a plate, and 3 pin holes on each end, which are (unfortunately) only 0.5 studs deep, so half and third pins can be used there. The bottom also provides access to the bind button and the receiver's status LEDs. An AFHDS3 receiver with telemetry or an AFHDS2A receiver without telemetry can be used. The AFHDS2A protocol is also supported by the multi-protocol or the more affordable Flysky radio, for example. The battery connection (XT30 plug), PF ports, and servo ports are located on the top. There is no longer a switch - as soon as a battery is connected, the box is on. The 4 PF ports can each handle 10 A peak and can also operate original LEGO servos (so they are not dual ports). Geekservos or other equipment like light Modules (still in planning) can be connected directly via the 4 servo ports. The 4 ports share 4 A between them. All of this is now possible because, for the first time, I didn't use off-the-shelf components for this box, but developed everything myself except for the receivers. So I have my own motor controllers with my own software and new PCBs. All of my own circuits are now designed so that they can be scaled as required and then installed in a new RC Box Ultimate if necessary. I have now built a few more of these boxes and will soon be stress testing them at the Modell Hobby Spiel trade fair in Leipzig (Germany). For the first time, there is now also one that has the AFHDS2A receiver installed. Yesterday, I was able to successfully test that it also works in practice (I used a Jumper T18 pro with EdgeTX), as everything had been purely theoretical up to that point. One of the boxes still has an old board (which will be replaced) and I still have to print a case for one of them, then I'll be ready for the exhibitions. The next version will include a few other features. For example, you will be able to activate a brake function separately for all PF channels using a switch inside. There will also be a slave port to which you can connect a slimmed-down slave box, giving you 8 PF and 8 servo channels. A detailed video will be available soon. If everything works well after the exhibitions and there is interest, I would then take pre-orders. The price will be around €100.

oh yes, I meant the smaller version of course. The power module can deliver 75A continuously. I'm pretty sure that this is enough, but all motor controllers combined can theoretically deliver 64A peak when all ports are under full load.

Hello Guys, thank you very much for the positive Feedback :) Originally I planned to send out the first few test samples last year, but due to some tiny errors and assembling difficulties it had to delay that and only finished one Box for the video. I have to make some tiny adjustments and reorder the PCBs until I'm ready to sell the Handmade batches. But I really hope, that it won't take long. I'm going to be really busy in January, but I'm confident that I can start selling afterward. If you are really interested, just e-mail me at info@mistercreator.de. The planned things like lighting Modules and Brushless Modules are independent of the Box and can be added separately if needed. Yes, the Servo did not rotate full 90 degrees, but I think this is only a setting in the transmitter regarding the servo signal and this should be fixed easily. I will take a look at that problem later I will sell the Box if possible, but I won't sell the transmitter or batteries with it. For the transmitter it should be your choice to pick, but for now the Box only supports AFHDS3 remotes, which will stick you to the Paladin. But even there the "cheap" one starts at €250 while the high end one is priced at €1000 so you have to decide for yourself. Otherwise, you can buy a AFHDS3 expansion module and stick it in the expansion slot of an opentx remote or another remote you might already have. For the battery, you have to make sure that it fits your model, so I won't sell a generic battery which most people wouldn't use because it doesn't fit. Also, there would be the problems that @Mr Jos already mentioned. No, for now there is no RC Box planned which already houses the battery. Maybe I will think about this in the future. The good thing is, that the Box is (nearly) fully modular, so makeing another powermodule which houses XT plugs will not be a big deal (but not sure if a XT60 will fit the dimensions, maybe it would be a XT90 then). Having the PWM ports as they are, will not be an option for now because the ports on the RC Box provide 5V as well as 12V and some of my planned modules will require one or the other. So having an normal PWM Port which only supplies 5V BEC is not possible. It maybe makes the Box a bit more complicated because you need an extra adapter, but it also makes the Box a lot more versatile. best regards Adrian

Hello Guys, after 6 months without a single post, I want to share with you the progress I made on the RC Box. I now have 10+2 channels in the same box size as before. 10 normal Power functions ports (2 with finally working servo support) and 4 dual channels. Additionally there are two PWM channels which can be used to hook up non power functions components such as Geekservos, lighting modules (WIP) and Brushless motors (WIP) bringing the maximum motor count to twelve. I made a new video which shows everything: Best Regards Adrian

Hello technic friends, I have some interesting new information about the RC Box. After I tested some different electronic speed controllers, I was able to get proportional servo control to work properly. So There will be an improved or fully working Version of the 10 Ch RC Box very soon, As well as the versions with different channel amounts.

I've now hooked up my multimeter to the Buwizz ports and as I already expected, the Buwizz does not output an PWM Signal, it outputs proportional voltage. That means: to get the servo turning just a little bit you need 1,6V from C1 to C2. The more voltage there is between C1 and C2 the more the servo will turn. As the PWM Signal always provides full voltage, the servo will always turn 100%. I hope this is understandable for everyone and clarifies any open questions.

I now tested everything again and built a small testing rig, to make sure that it's nothing wrong with my RC Box. But same as before, the servo still only turns all the way to the left or to the right, no proportional steering possible. I used an 2S lipo to make sure that I'm not overvolting my servo.

It was a original LEGO Servo which was tested on Buwizz to work properly.

My servo outpouts are fully wired up, so they do have 0V, 9V, C1 and C2 thats why they are not labeled as a dual channel. But even with that, I had no luck getting the servo to turn proportionally, no matter how less PWM I applied it always went 100% left or right, that's why I thought that they might need proportional voltage input and not PWM input. So I was able to turn the servo and the connections were ok, but the servo was not able to decode the signal correct for proportional turning. I will try some more things this weekend