cozzie4d

Thanks, this is super useful. I might grab an additional transformer and check the connectors (spread the out slightly for better connection). Replacing cables is a last resort for now, as I've nicely hidden most of them with light gray 2x3 + 1x2's along side the tracks

So, now that I have everything connected, some findings: when pressing the electronic crossing buttons, the barriers come down very slow (need to keep the button pressed) when I disconnect the 3 sets of connected lights to the far left accessoire remote, the barriers open normal (I believe, for 40 year old lego :)) currently I have 1 transformer with 3 electronic switches 1 electrical railroad crossing (7866) 2 signal posts (7860) 3 sets of serial connected lights (each about 4 to 6 lights and another transformer, just with 1 set of 4 serial connected lights I'm starting to get the feeling that I need to spread the load a bit, OR use a different transformer (could also be non-lego) for my lights. Do you feel it should keep working fine with 3 +1 + 2 = 6 remotes attached plus a whole bunch of lights? Curious if someone has experience with this. In theory I could also have some bad connection somewhere, that interferes, but in that case I wouldn't expect the lights to work and the remote accessoires also to work.

Any ideas? I also thought of connecting them all in parallel and run longer wires alongside the tracks, which I can then tie together (tie wraps or something). But not sure if I want to buy a whole lot or cable just for this purpose

Hey. Correct, the buttons are indeed for switches, signals and crossing. I basically have 3 sets of connected lights; the 3 cables lead into the far left/ last remote accessoires’s side input

Hi. They go a bit darker and then lighter again, but only when I press a button on the remote accessoires (connected to the transformer). When I don't touch anything the lights shine normally I think. A bunch would be 6 or 7 going back to 1 connection in the transformer.

Quick update; I connected a bunch of them to each other and then to the transformer. All working as expected. One thing I did notice though, when I use any of the remote accessoires (press the buttons), the lights flicker. Any idea what might cause this, perhaps pulling too much power from the transformer?

Hi all, I've finished adding all my light masts/poles to my track layout and wired everything up. Besides some flickering of the lights when pressing accessoire remotes, it's all working fine :) But, all those cables around the tracks look so messy. So I'm looking for ways to nicely let the cables follow the tracks. The only solution I came up with so far, is taking light a gray 3x2 plate and a 1x2 plate on one side of it, attaching the other side to the sleeper, and let the cable go underneath it. This kind of works, but I don't have 200 or so old gray 2x3s and 1x2s. Any ideas on how to do this differently while making it look pretty still?

Oh wow, that’s super useful. Thanks 🙏

Thanks. Looks way to scary for me, better just slice of 2mm of 2 plastic center pins or find 2 connectors without them

Thanks for the quick replies. Also did some more searching, looks like also a variant of the dual connector exists, without center plastic pin. Maybe this switch came from a set where those cables were used. I will also try to attach a photo. apparently you can only upload 1x1 pixel images on the forum.. http://www.sierracosworth.nl/img/12v-connector-doesnt-fit.jpg

Hi all, I found a nice 'lot' with 2 12v remote controlled switches. But when connecting them, I found that one of the 2 has something weird. On both sides, so the remote and the 'switch box' I cannot plug dual connectors in, it's like the middle plastic pin is too long to fit in, causing the metal pins to not fully slide in. Any idea what might cause this? Perhaps different types of connectors. A simple solution would be to cut of 2mm of the center plastic pin of the connector, but ideally I don't want that. I also thought that maybe a pin broke off while connected (before I got the set), but it feels too much like a coincidence if this happened on both the remote as will as the switch box. I also checked all my other cables/connectors, but none of them have a shorter plastic center pin. Of course single connectors would also work. Any input is appreciated.

Wow, thorough and scientific explanation, thanks :) I'll give it a go and see when it becomes an issue, I guess cables getting warm. I'm currently using 1 transformer for everything, might go for a 2nd one to spread things a bit. Also useful for more control on 2 separated tracks.

Hi all. I was looking buying a bulk of new white 1x1, x2, x3, x4, x6 and x8 bricks, so I can freshen up some old sets (same for plates). Which got me wondering, where would people on BrickLink get them from? The prices look lower mostly then official new from Lego or Toypro for example. So they might as well be unused and 30 years old, with still the potential yellowing. Curious on your thoughts, before just running off and burning a bunch of euros on a mistake.

Ah yes, gotcha. So the only difference compared to 1 cable per light brick, is that the further down the line, more bricks share a single cable, but still in parallel. I guess it then comes down to “how well” the cables can handle this (resistance?)

Thanks all. @Toastie your picture looks more like serial to me, because you're connect 1 light to the transformer, and the other pass through one to the next.

Hi all, I'm working on recreating my legoland/town city of dreams, with multiple trains and lots of lights. Now I was wondering, is it possible to connect 12v light bricks in serial. Aka, do I have to run wires from each light to the side input of the transformer, or can I connect them to each other. If so, that would save a ton of wire and headaches. Any input is appreciated.

Wow, this is great. Thanks, I'll look into the parts and see if I can figure it out.

Hi all, I was wondering if there are any best practices in automating set 7866, the electric 2 track crossing. My idea was to look into 4 sensors, 2 for each track, a bit before and a bit after the crossing. And depending on the current state, send a 12v signal to the switch boxes that control them. But that might become complex when you also have the manual switch on your transformer, states going out of sync etc. Any ideas? I'm by no means an electrical expert, just wondering how I could approach it and what I would need for it.

Hi all, While working on planning and starting to build my 80s city, I was wondering. What do you all use to connect street baseplates together? Eventually perhaps small buildings or trees, but especially at the early stage it's quite annoying they move around, 2x2 tiles fixes it for now. Just curious if you have smart ideas on connecting them.

Ah that's a perfect solution, thanks. I'll get some 1x12's, ideally in light or dark grey. Thanks again

Thanks, I didn’t know 1x12 existed :) if you have a picture that would be great

Hi all, I've noticed that my track cross (7857) bends down when a train drives over it. Unfortunately there are no 'stud connectors' at the bottom to make it stronger/funded. Any best practices on fixing this?

Good news, I've almost finished my layout and started to build today (inner track first). There's one small issue, because of the switch points, I end up with missing half a straight section. Any ideas how I could solve this one? Ah never mind, I fixed it by using a different point (L vs R)

Thanks, always good to have a 2nd pair of eyes

Hi all, After buying a batch of new 2x2 tiles in light grey, I noticed that the bottom is different then most of my 2x2 smooth tiles. I dug up a bunch of them in different colors, to compare their backsides. My question is, do you think the grey ones (far right) are real or fake legos? Rebrickable and some other sites showed different variants that came out through the years. Maybe my light grey ones are one of the variants. Any input is appreciated.