mEan

I am struggling with the Pop-Up book-like design, because unlike the book, I want to have plates instead of brick wall on sides, so I need to figure out how to attach hinges to these plates. But every SNOT technique I can think of deals with a problem with the hinge plate being placed on top of side of a brick, creating a 1 stud width (8 mm) vercital gap, which I cannot compensate by brick height: Is there a SNOT technique which alows placing the plate aligned to the bottom of a brick? Like this:

Oh yes. I missed the part where he describes magnets, thanks.

Wow, that's a lot of work and very interesting post, thank you for that! Now I understand what you and 1963maniac meant when recommended to use Technics beams. When I tried to attach the beam to two bricks with holes and failed due to colliding edges, I thought about loosing it a little somehow, but I didnt know there are Technics bars with smaller diameter. If I understand the solution correctly, one beam is missing a base plate, which moves the hinge axis to one side and helps to avoid the edge collision. That's really clever idea! I am still working on a clean method to SNOT attach hinge plates to sides of the board, I really like the idea of pop-up book like 2 hinge design, which is the only one that completely solves protrusion problems and looks cleanest overall. But if I fail, I will probably use your method. It's interesting idea to have a small 16x16 box, I'm just afraid the height of the box would have to be quite big to fit all the pieces inside. The folding mechanism is a must for me, I'm basically trying to make copy of a regular chess set I have at home.

Just an update on the Techics beams method. I was thinking to attach the beam like this, but then I realized I woudln't be able to open the box, becase the bricks dont have the same round shape as the beam. Or you had different idea on your mind?

Hello, really beautiful chess set. I am working on a similar project and I will inspire by your pieces. I see you are using 2 2x4 tiles as chess squares, but on last picture you switched to 1 2x4 and 2 1x4 tiles. Can I ask you the reason behind this? I am thinking about using 4 2x2 tiles for the sake of symmetry.

Do you mean a 16x16 box with four 16x16 lids stacked up on each other and then attaching these lids on top of the box to create a 32x32 chessboard?

Oh, you meant a lid on the whole board... yeah my main idea is to have a 16x32 box instead of a whole board. Well, I was trying to avoid the pop-up book design because of the studs and holes on top and bottom, but this is interesting idea. If I will manage to implement hinge plates to my studs-up design, I could try to build the 3-part hinge and solve the problem with protruding joint. Thanks

Thanks for your suggestions. I prefer a solution with permanent hinge, I'm afraid the clips would like to disconnect. And I cannot use the Technics parts because the studs would be interfering with each other when opened, I need the axis of the joint to be between studs of both parts. Interesting idea, but the half with studs would be higher that the other when placed on a table and I think it's good to have both halves connected when playing chess.

Yes, exactly! I am aware of this problem and I was thinking I could live with this small design flaw if there is no other solution, but I think the beam methid could solve this! I'm not sure I understand, what is the difference between the hinge brick 1x4 you posted and a standard hinge plate 1x4? I thought these parts are identical, except the plate one has 3x smaller height, but they should open in the same angle. Yeah, hinge plate with two more plates is the same as a brick in height, but I need to rotate it and attach the hinge to the side of the brick, so I was thinking to use 5 hinge plates, that means the height of the plates equals to width of 1x2 brick. But I will be looking more into the beam solution now. Good to hear you are interested in this problem, I will definitely update this thread with a solution.

I'm building it 32x32 (from 4 16x16 plates) and all studs should face up when the board is opened. This has two reasons: I need studs on top so I can attach tiles as chess squares and I want to avoid SNOT technique used in LEGO Pop-Up book, because it has visible studs and holes on sides. So I was thinking using SNOT only to attach the hinge plate to this part, which will be placed in the side of the box, hope it's understandable. I thought the hinge you posted allows 180° - from 2x2 brick (0°) transforms to 1x4 brick (180°), am I wrong? As you mentioned the Technics beams, I realized I could use small standard beam with 2 holes and sorround it with two 1x1 Technics brick with hole, making a hinge... thanks for that idea, I will think about it.

This is the same as hinge plate, olny it's a brick. I meant something like this but with hinge a the he bottom, so when closed the studs aims to opposite direction. But I guess I will just have to use the one you posted and connect it with side studs.

Hello, I am trying to make a LEGO chessboard which closes in half forming a box and I am not sure which part to use as a hinge. Ideal for my build would be a part similar to a hinge plate 1x4, but with the hinge turning in different angle. Something like two 1x2 bricks connected with a hinge at the bottom forming a 1x4 brick when opened . But as far as I know, there is no part like that. Only solution that comes to my mind is to somehow use bricks with side studs to attach plate hinges, but I think it would not be pretty. How would you solve this problem? I guess there must be a solution for making a simple box. Thank you.