Brickstepper

This looks nice, seems like it saves three whole track pieces in length. I've got some old rundown points lying around but am still reluctant to cut them up... Might have a go at a threeway point though, see if that might work, to save one track in length. Do you use the Chinese servo's with arduino? I have never used those in combination with Lego.

Great, this really helps. Seems there is quite an oxydation layer on the tracks, even though they are still shiny. The sanding does the trick, the solder bonds well after that. Especially he 12V crossings have issues with conducting as the 4 track pieces are connected by a metal strip that is pressed underneath the rail clamps so was working on soldering those. It has worked, resistance went from 12 Ohm to zero so mission accomplished. The 12V rails do tend to get rusty when moist so was thinking there must be some iron in there. I used Inox flux but that did not seem to help in getting a good bond to the metal. I used silver solder 3,5% which worked pretty good. @LEgotux, I would be interested in seeing the points monstrosity you have created, maybe you can post a picture?

Hello all, Has anyone got experience in soldering to the 12V electrical tracks? I'm trying to get a good connection for wires, want to solder them to the metal conducting parts. When using flux for inox and 60/40 solder it doesn't seem to flow and bond properly. Would a different type of solder work better there? Also I don't know what kind of material the tracks are, seems like a nickel/steel alloy of some sort, different from normal inox steel.

Ok sounds good, maybe ZezaR can chime in?

Found an interesting item today, the railway station 7824 in a box the size of the 7822 station box. I thought they came only in a more narrow sized box. Does anyone know if this is an early or late style packaging? Also, the accessories in the 785* range seem to have had a redesign of the boxes at some point, when would this have started, would think very late in the production period up until the end?

Great lead, thanks for that. After googeling in that direction I think a clear film for graphic purposes will fit the bill. Wondering what they used back in the day, if it was celluloid or acetate like material.

I'm looking to fix up a few boxes from eighties Miniland sets and trains, and want to replace the transparent foil that is glued into the box's display side. What kind of foil can be used for that, and where can you buy that? What kind of glue works best?