Scooter

Hi Thorsten, Thanks for that advice, I'll look into that. It's still running great today, no jerkiness, both other trains working great with no sign that the WD40 has got onto the track. Cheers. Scotty

SORTED NOW! Dont bother getting a load of new bits for the train, I've just given it a squirt of WD40 where the pistons locate at the front of the train, a thousand times better! Whoo Hoo, Scotty

That was what I was thinking too, any faster and things would get a bit iffy on the corners! The pistons are going mad at the current speed too! Ok, speed is sorted, just got to sort out the slight jerkiness of the engine. I'll read up on some of the other threads for the solution to that one! Why oh why isn't there an easy way to put a normal PF train motor into this train somewhere, still leaving the big wheels on for their looks? Need to figure that out too. Cheers, Scotty

Hi all, Just got my Emerald Night moving under it's own steam with the PF XL motor. The engine seems really slow compared to trains 7939 and the white passenger train from a couple of years ago. Is this right? When I turn up the speed on the PF remote, the increase in speed is really slight for each increment. I think I've put it together correctly, so is it just designed not to go as fast as the other trains? Cheers indeed, Scotty

OOps, will do in future!

Hi all, Just to let you know Argos in the UK has the RC switching tracks (or points if you prefer!) for £11.22 a pack with free delivery. Just got myself a few boxes. Thought you guys might like to know. Cheers, Scotty

Hi there, I've been thinking about this today, when I should have been working! Has anyone put a PF train motor under the passenger car, the battery box above it in the car, with the reciever hidden (well not the top part obviously) in the tender. The gears could be stripped out of the engine for less friction, and the motor would have some weight over it from the battery box. The other way I thought of was to use the PF train motor at the very rear of the engine, in place of the single wheel. That way the reciever can stay in the engine, as well at the battery staying in the tender, hidden of course. How difficult is to mod the rear section like this, still allowing it to connect to the tender? All of this is so that I don't have a honking great motor on show in the cabin of the engine and the driver can still fit in the cab! Sorry for all the questions, just want some ideas before I go and buy the kit. Cheers guys and girls, Scotty

Thanks for that, I'll take a look. Anymore ideas or info out there would be much appreciated, Cheers

Hello there, As this is my first post I'll give a little bit of a background. I'm 38 years old, live just outside London in the UK and am married with two boys aged 6 and 4. As a kid I was really in to Lego, but could never afford trains, so we did with lots of town stuff. We sold the whole lot years ago for £50 ! I know, what a fool! Well since my boys came along I've got back into it, and we now have the white passenger train, 7939 yellow cargo train, station,a whole load of town buildings and vehicles, as well as the Death Star, X wing and a few other Star Wars bits and pieces. I have to say I really enjoy building the Lego with my boys, then watching them play with it, just like I did (and still do!) That's the intro over with, now I've got a question for you. I picked up the Emerald Night train today, after reading a post somewhere that it may not be in the shops for much longer (I don't know if this is true of course). I've had a look at the instructions regarding the placement of the power functions items i.e. the battery box in the tender and the XL motor in the drivers cab. I'm not happy with how this looks, having it all exposed. I wonder if anyone has instead used a normal 'bogie' train motor, and if so where can it be placed. I was thinking under the tender, with a slight modifgication so that the tender runs with three axles (one unpowered of course) with the battery box hidden in the carriage out of sight. Would the tender have enough weight pushing down on the track to get the train to move? The other alternative is to place the 'bogie' motor under the front of the passenger carriage, and modify the rear wheels to match. This would allow the battery box to sit above it in the carriage and would mean more weight pushing the wheels down onto the track. The reciever would of course remain in its intended location in the engine. Any thoughts or hints would be most welcome, along with any pictures to help me. Got to get it sorted before I start buying the PF kit. Many thanks, Scooter