jaster

here it is: i really wish that it were 2 studs deep instead of 3.

You could, you know, build your own methlabs and distilleries.

It is nice to see a layout that is not just a collection of Lego sets. Keep it up.

Does anyone have pictures of the new mudguards? I am really excited for them and would like to know their dimensions.

Very impressive!

It looks great. Nice modification.

Thanks, everyone. The instructions are finally public: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=482976

Hello, all. I built this corn syrup tanker a little over a year ago and today, while I was building a duplicate of it, I thought it would be a good opportunity to make instructions. Many of the pieces can be other colors because they are not visible. Additionally, if you are not as concerned with weight as I am, you can use regular 2x2 bricks instead of panels between the dark purple cylinders. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for looking! Click the above picture for instructions (once moderated).

Have you tried making the train itself lighter? Use panels instead of bricks where you can and use one big brick instead of several small bricks. One 1x2 brick is lighter than two 1x1 bricks, for example. The difference is only .08 grams, but it all adds up once you do it enough. As others have suggested, make couplers out of technic; they will certainly be stronger than magnets.

Here are some pictures taken by COLTC member Ken: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=476436 I did not participate in this show because it was 2 hours away and I had classes to attend.

The RC wheels create a lot more friction than 9V wheels, apparently.

Build your own couplers and buffers EDIT: oops, I just realized that his topic had been brought back from the dead!

Designing your own cars in light bluish grey would definitely be more affordable and potentially more realistic. Swoofty made some good ones not too long ago, they are certainly worth reverse engineering and gracing your (or anyone else's) layout with:

The image that "mostlytechnic" posted is not what my model is based off of. He linked to an SD50, whereas my model is a GP40-2. I linked to it in my OP, but here it is again for those who did not read it: http://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1988397

Thanks, Gerrit! Does this mean that you will be at the Ohio State Fair this year?

Wonderful! You hid all the PF equipment well.

Thanks, guys. As I said in the OP, I do not plan to put any decals on it.

If you look closely, the rails are 12v after the switch and have empty space between the ties for the ore to fall to the boat. The train uses regular hopper cars:

I recall seeing this in Detroit almost 4 years ago. It is still impressive today: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2640620

Nice use of studs for the firebox.

I just finished building a Chesapeake and Ohio GP40-2 in the Chessie System color scheme. The Chessie System used to run a branch line not far from where I have lived nearly all of my life (Indiana and Ohio now owns and operates on it; Baltimore and Ohio used to) and now makes up one of the two main railroads (CSX and NS) in Columbus, so it is somewhat special to me. Conveniently, my club takes its logo from Chesapeake and Ohio's, so it will fit in nicely at our exhibitions and with the other C&O rolling stock that our club members have built. The top two-sevenths of the locomotive should be dark blue, but I chose black so that I could render the locomotive as realistically (and cheaply ) as possible. I also chose not to make decals for it because I feel that the color scheme alone is enough to evoke the image of the real thing. I greatly appreciate any constructive criticism! The prototype: http://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1988397 See more pictures in my flickr photostream here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jastermereel08/tags/chesapeakeandohio/

The spring is very clever. I should like to modify it so that it looks more at home in North America (no buffers), but still retains the spring idea.

Try sending the seller a message, asking what it means.

I built a lot of my freight cars almost entirely upside down and use 1xnx1 panels to make the car sit lower. Here is an example: If you build wider than 6 studs there are infinitely many more solutions.