Powering train engine through cars with CV joints?

[redeemed]

I just purchased an EN yesterday and I was wondering if it is possible to transmit power from a car in another part of the train up to the engine with CV joint? I really don't like the look of my L motor in the cab and want to put it in the tender with the battery box in the car behind that. I don't know how sharp of angles trains take so I do not know if this is feasible or not. Ideally, I'd like to power the whole thing with something more powerful like one of my buggy motors and just weigh down the train with boat weights to get extra traction.

What do you think? Has it been done? Is it possible or am I spinning my wheels?

[Spitfire2865]

The use of a Lego buggy motor would never work with the EN. Just saying that now. And I am assuming you want to power it somewhat like a tender driven model train. The problem is the center of the locomotives turn. It is far from the cab so the chances of getting power from the tender to drive the drivers is very low. And not to mention it would most likely look much odder than just a large motor in the cab, which from experience, can be covered up and still sit figures in it with an XL motor.

Though, You can use a PF motor bogie to power the tender and just push the loco in front of it.

[Alasdair Ryan]

I am no train expert,but I am a technic noob.....

I would not use a cv joint to power the main engine from the tender,but you could power the tender using a buggy motor,If you mount the buggy motor upside down it will take up a lot less space.

You could also make a simple gearbox so you get two different power outputs.

As you say you could use train weights and the battery box (if it fits) to weight down the loco inside the boiler.

[Spitfire2865]

As you say you could use train weights and the battery box (if it fits) to weight down the loco inside the boiler.

I didnt say that. The normal EN setup suggested by Lego works well enough with slight modification. And if a motor bogie goes in the tender, the battery box would weigh it down. Search the Train Tech for anything on the EN. Almost every threat on it is very helpful for those new to the EN. Much more helpful than anything I could say.

[Alasdair Ryan]

I didnt say that.

I never said you did....

The normal EN setup suggested by Lego works well enough with slight modification. And if a motor bogie goes in the tender, the battery box would weigh it down.

I am sure it works well,I am only suggesting a possible solution to what he asked above regarding using a buggy motor to power his train.

Edited April 19, 2013 by Alasdair Ryan

[Spitfire2865]

Wait what? XD sorry I thought you were the original poster. Sorry bout that. Ive been on my phone all day and I must have not seen the names correctly!

I was on EB from my phone if that wasnt clear enough...

I feel stupid now.

I never said you did....

I am sure it works well,I am only suggesting a possible solution to what he asked above regarding using a buggy motor to power his train.

The problem with the buggy motor is it is high speed and fairly large compared to Lego Trains. I dont see any way of fitting the buggy motor into the tender or loco. Though I may be mistaken.

Edited April 19, 2013 by Spitfire2865

[Alasdair Ryan]

If you put the buggy motor lengthways it won't take up too much space.

[Werlu Ulcur]

And if a motor bogie goes in the tender, the battery box would weigh it down. Search the Train Tech for anything on the EN. Almost every threat on it is very helpful for those new to the EN. Much more helpful than anything I could say.

My EN arrived today ( ) and that's the route I'm taking. I still have to wait for the motor, so I'll build it stock just to see how it looks, but as soon as the motor arrives I'm doing the powered-tender conversion.

I started a thread exactly about this a while back and there's a boat-load of useful tips and information there (it was titled "Emerald Night: Quick Questions" or something like that).

[JopieK]

You're welcome: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=80413

[BMW]

Yes it is possible to power a locomotive using CV joints. I've had a PF steam locomotive running for over a year using this approach with the motor in the tender. However, the geometry needs to be just right meaning it works best when the joints are closest to the outermost flanged wheel on each car/lok. This means the cars (or tender and lok) will be close together. And yes the joints must be lubed. The other thing you need to be aware of is torque. One reason model railroad manufacturers abandon this approach is that the torque tends to want to rotate the locomotive which can potentially lower traction and/or electrical connectivity. It hasn't been an issue with my lok because I tend to operate at lower speeds and don't pull a lot of weight.

I've got pictures of this lok coming soon. I'm just recently getting around to photographing a backlog of MOCs and should have this one in a few weeks.

- BMW

[Duq]

The cv joints can do the angles. Esben Kolind used them to power the doors in his commuter train:

[link]

You'll probably want to use half beams/liftarms for the pulling connection and only use the cv joints for drive train. The torque that BMW describes may still be an issue and may cause derailings.

Please post pictures if you get it to work.

[redeemed]

Wow, that is insane! Couldn't he have used some gears instead of ALL those joints?

BTW, I had the other style CV joint in mind, I was thinking of this kind in order to allow the train to disconnect easier.

However, the point made about torque transferred to the engine is a very good one, I am thinking about modifying the engine and making it longer and the tender longer and taller to better accommodate all the parts I want to get in there. I will likely have to just install the motor(s) in the engine itself and live with it.

I will be pulling three additional cars after the complete EN train and I want it to be able to scoot around pretty good.

Edited April 19, 2013 by redeemed

[Alasdair Ryan]

The new style of CV joint does not move as much as the older one,but yes it can be disconnected quicker.

[paul_delahaye]

I have a flex spring drive (about 15cm long) which has a white technic axle at each end, I'd always thought the part came from Technic Znap, but I cannot find it on Bricklink, if this part is real, it could be what you need, I will keep trying to identify it. It would overcome the issue of the universal joint.

[Alasdair Ryan]

I have a flex spring drive (about 15cm long) which has a white technic axle at each end, I'd always thought the part came from Technic Znap, but I cannot find it on Bricklink, if this part is real, it could be what you need, I will keep trying to identify it. It would overcome the issue of the universal joint.

Remember that the needs to uncouple the wagons from the loco.

[paul_delahaye]

ahh, I thought he wanted the motor in the tender

anyway, I've found the part I had in mind

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=x334c01&in=S

[Duq]

Paul, you just beat me to it. I also found a few of those flexi axles in my collection.

[dr_spock]

You could try a couple of CV joints like this for quick disconnect and expansion/contraction if you have to go up or down inclines.