Advice on Acquiring Track

[MarkV]

I've did electric trains as a kid and got interested in Lego sets after getting one of my old Lionel trains out of storage from my parents. I'm completely new to Lego trains, but I am now the proud owner of a Maersk set and Emerald Night set. Both are still MISB and will remain that way until I get some time this summer. I plan to "PF" both of them and have various parts already for this purpose.

I have other Lego sets, but nothing in the way of train gear - specifically track. I'm looking to set something up that wouldn't be larger than a 4' x 8' - at least I can't see that for some time. My basic lego math says that a 8' straight would require 19 lego straight tracks. So, that's about 57 straight track pieces ignoring curves to cover the outside of a 4'x8' area. That's about 7 boxes of 7499. That seems about where I should start for a single train.

What's the best option for doing track?

I see buying at least two 7895 (switching tracks), maybe 4 initially - obviously will need more track...

I was considering some 4520s since there are complaints about flexitrack and they still seem to be available although I don't see 9v in my future.

Are curved 9v sections a better option than the flexitrack? I am cheap to some extent, but constant derailings eliminate any sense of fun for me.

Is a better way to do this than straight up track purchasing? Many of the sets include track, but I'm paying more for the additional engines and PF parts than the track that is included. Are there any really good values on sets for current shipping product?

Is it a good idea to look at baseplates under the track area? I noted some threads about ballasting track. Still going through those...

Thanks,

Mark

[MetroiD]

Hi Mark, good to hear you're getting into such a great hobby. I also started my Trains collection from scratch about 3 years ago, and I was pretty much in the same situation as you are now. For me personally, the thing that's worked best was purchasing train track in bulk - i.e., via eBay or Bricklink when there are good deals available. I've invested both in 9V and PF, since I'd like to run trains using both systems. If you've made up your mind though and will only be using the newer PF track, you should have no problem in acquiring large quantities of those on eBay as bulk lots.

In case you decide that for one reason or another you'd still like to have metal rails, I could also recommend ME Models - at least for straight sections, since their curves are hard to come by.

As for baseplates - you'll probably need those if you're planning on landscaping and ballasting the track. I've run my trains without baseplates on multiple occasions, but it's not a great sight since the track just doesn't look right. That is, of course, if you're into realism. If you just want to run some trains, you probably shouldn't worry too much about what you put the tracks on, as long as the surface is stable and flat. Incorporating that into a real layout though does require baseplates.

[Hrw-Amen]

I built up enough curved track for a loop from bricklink easily enough and purchased a couple of boxes of straight. I found it much easier to get cheap curved on bricklink than I did straight. You can also get track sections on the LEGO Shop at Home website although they are a bit expensive that way.

I am not a fan of the flexi track and found that especially the EN does not seem to like long lengths of it, having said that it is useful for those times when you just cannot make it fit and need a shorter section. I find them useful on reversing loops.

I also went with the EN and Maersk first, but since then have purchased the three basic trains sets as well so I now have loads of track, although I am sure enough is never enough!

So I would say get yourself a good sized loop first that will fit on your table, run the trains. If it is fun and you enjoy it then invest in some base-plates to attach them too. If I had room for a set up that I could leave up I think I would get enough to do this. As it is I don't so only bits that are scenic and will stay made up are on them. Ballasting everything would be very expensive (I have done my station.) it looks better but it is expensive. I guess you don't have to do it all at once though.

[gotoAndLego]

...Ballasting everything would be very expensive (I have done my station.) it looks better but it is expensive. I guess you don't have to do it all at once though.

Ballasting raises the track by a two or three plates. So while you don't have to make it look perfect you'd need to at least lay some plates under all your track. But you are correct that you don't have to make everything look super nice at the same time.

[Andy Glascott]

I have other Lego sets, but nothing in the way of train gear - specifically track. I'm looking to set something up that wouldn't be larger than a 4' x 8' - at least I can't see that for some time. My basic lego math says that a 8' straight would require 19 lego straight tracks. So, that's about 57 straight track pieces ignoring curves to cover the outside of a 4'x8' area. That's about 7 boxes of 7499. That seems about where I should start for a single train.

Welcome Mark,

All my recent layouts have been on a table 4'x8', and the oval of track that went round the outside had 13 straights on the long sides, 4 on the short sides and obviously then 4 curves in each corner. As the layouts evolved the ovals became more complex, but the outer loop on this image follows those dimensions. That's a total of 34 straight sections, a lot cheaper than 57

On an 8'x4'table that doesn't leave very much room at the edges on the long sides, but does leave an inch or two at either end. This folder has images of the layout the above loop was on which will give you an idea of the space I did (or didn't) have to play with. Occasionally, the track on the edge was over the edge by a stud or two!

Hope this helps, it should at least save a few quid buying track.

Andy

[MarkV]

Welcome Mark,

All my recent layouts have been on a table 4'x8', and the oval of track that went round the outside had 13 straights on the long sides, 4 on the short sides and obviously then 4 curves in each corner. As the layouts evolved the ovals became more complex, but the outer loop on this image follows those dimensions. That's a total of 34 straight sections, a lot cheaper than 57

Hope this helps, it should at least saver a few quid buying track.

Andy

Thanks! That's a great layout. I bit the bullet on a bunch of 4520 sets today so I should be good on curves for a while.