Cleaning / Repairing old 12V blue track + switches

[roamingstop]

I recently struck silver, and got a really nice load of 12V blue track for a very good price on a Swiss website... now it is time to clean up the track, and see if the motors and automatic points are working... but without any other pieces as reference it will take some time, so looking for some pointers...

I already use Oxyclean + Hydrogen Peroxide on older white bricks (and some yellowed light grey) from other sets, but want to be a bit more gentle with the models listed below...

1. Cleaning the conducting rails. Ive read of the toothpaste trick, but what recommendations for brand and type of brush? Would they also benefit from a short dunking in Oxyclean?

2. Checking the motors. I got one complete 12V motor, plus two working gearboxes (without motor). These later ones are probably not worth the hassle of repairing, but given as supplies to others... (Sokrotez?)

3. Checking the automatic points. There were no obvious wires coming out from the boxes; but there were white tubes above which would have once housed some bricks. I did not see any obvious connection points so guess the wires are missing? Or were there purely manual blue 12V switches (but with big boxes beside them).

4. Train Signal Post (Blue). I have one stand (broken mechanism) plus one complete assembly, which does not seem to work properly. Held upside down, the lever can rotate easily, but when upright it seems to be locked in position. Is there a way to fix this?

5. The following models were more or less complete (I have a load of track as well)... but what to do with it all (all my other models are modern era)

113: Motorised Train Set(needs motor to be checked... which batteries?)

116: Starter trainset with motor(needs motor to be checked... which batteries?). Or is it 127? (whats the difference?)

125: Tipper wagons, (x2) just need a good clean

128 Mobile Crane with Train Base. Just needs a good clean

136 Tanker Wagon,

146 Level Crossing (no 6x24 plate, but alternatives),

124 Goods wagon (stickers in good condition)

and an unidentified red caboose...

Edited September 12, 2011 by roamingstudio

[Sokratesz]

All plastic parts can be machine washed at low temperature.

For cleaning the conductor rails I would use the type of plastic-friendly cleaning oil available in model stores (I forgot the name but its a white plastic container with a steam engine on the side), if it's rusty you can use sandpaper to clean it off and smooth the steel parts a little.

What kind of motors are they? The classic 12v ones from the grey era are really easy to take apart and clean.

- Sok.

[roamingstop]

Well... I have two of the 1966 Blue 4.5V motors - one works noisely, the other works a bit quieter... the 12V motor is the one with the integrated connections, so I think Type III, and works as well... and finally another 4.5V motor which works... so I hit lucky (the lady said all 12V stuff was broken). Pity I did not get any lights.

I recently picked up a 9V version of 7735 locomotive; when it arrives it will be backwards fitted to the 12V motor with side rods; I have a spare 12V coupler somewhere if need be. It will make a nice switcher to fit with the container crane depot (7823) I picked up cheap some time ago.

To the 12V owners out-there... what is the biggest appeal in 12V? Do the B-Models also get a good looking? (I could imagine a nice 7735 crocodile version)...

[Sokratesz]

To the 12V owners out-there... what is the biggest appeal in 12V? Do the B-Models also get a good looking? (I could imagine a nice 7735 crocodile version)...

Personally, I like the 'LEGO' look of the 12v era trains, combined with decent detail and the ability to easily rebuild them into different models. The 7777 train book and the back covers of the leaflets and building instructions offered endless inspiration for rebuilding. Add to that the electrical detail (lights, remote switchpoints, signal posts) and you get a lot more fun per unit of layout than with 9v for example. Much of it is a matter of taste though, so don't take any of this as fact :)

- Sok.

[Andy Glascott]

The best bet for cleaning the metal conducting rails and the connecting shoes on the 12v motors is cotton wool and methylated spirit. I've used it on my 25+ year old 7740 and track without any problems.

Andy

[patje]

I use wadding and decontamination alcohol

from pharmacy already more than 32 years

no problem for engines and electric components

because its rapidly gone

Edited September 12, 2011 by patje

[harnbak]

Congratulations with your buy. For the cleaning of the conductors I use some cloth damped in de-naturalised ethanol.

All plastic parts can be machine washed at low temperature.

For cleaning the conductor rails I would use the type of plastic-friendly cleaning oil available in model stores (I forgot the name but its a white plastic container with a steam engine on the side), if it's rusty you can use sandpaper to clean it off and smooth the steel parts a little.

What kind of motors are they? The classic 12v ones from the grey era are really easy to take apart and clean.

- Sok.

I never managed without breaking some of the inside plastic clamps forcing me to glue the top and bottom of the housing when assembling again.

The following is by far the best topic on cleaning I have ever found: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50345&view=findpost&p=893107.

@Sok: do you manage without breaking and glueing?

Edited September 12, 2011 by harnbak

[Sokratesz]

That's right, you cannot open them without breaking the seal, but with a very sharp knife you can cut between the plastic parts and remove them without much damage. I've taken two apart, glued one, taped the other and both run fine albeit the taped one is a little noisy.

- Sok.

[Andromeda]

I've used the knife method but it is messy, even if you take the time. I've read about using something that fits in the top 12v plug holes(small screwdriver), either side where the contacts go, putting it in a vice and giving it a whack. I have not tried it but having used the above first mentioned method, and I can see why it can work because of the coductive/weighty metal lumps either side, which should pass the force downwards. I think i'd firstly use the exacto carefully aswell , just to break any of the glue that has run up the sides. The bond points are similar to the below picture, except they are each side of the wheel, and as below, two at each end.

I'm experimenting with 12v remote switch motor opening at the mo. Again they are as fickle, they have a similar flange to the engine motors. The construction is also similar, see pic.

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1834/12vmotorswitchfixings.jpg

I use MEK(Methyl Ethyl Ketone) to bond broken bricks, I think it's the base for polystyrene cement and plumbers pipe weld. Clean breaks can be bonded with pure MEK on both sides, wait a few secs and press together. Older breaks you can dissolve some shavings from a same colour donor brick into the MEK to fill any gaps. This is what I also use to bond the above.

With the conducting rails - usually they're filthy:

If they are corroded, I use Silvo, the wadding type, it is less abrasive but enought for the job. To clean up afterwards I wipe down with IPA(Iso Propanol).

If just mucky then hard rubber and IPA - although when lazy a light silvo rub as above works well...

Any thoughts or q's....