BARC speeder.

[BrickArtist]

Hi all, here is my BARC speeder. Very sorry for the fuzzy pics, at some point i'll put up some better ones. Enjoy!

Heres the speeder.

Side view.

Front view.

back view.

Forward laser cannons.

Forward repulsor-lifts.

This is my favorite part, the control yoke. I felt like the lego yoke piece was to innacurate, so i made my own.

Control pedals, touch figs feet.

And last but not least, rear repulsors, armor, and rear blaster cannons.

Thanks for looking, please criticize!

[Brickdoctor]

All right, I'll criticize.

First off, I notice that your model is a straight one stud wide between the control sticks and the front. It should taper. Secondly, the 'real' BARC has an air intake with a fan inside it on the front end, yours is just flat. Thirdly, BARCs have two sets of control handlebars and all four sticks need to move independently. You've got the movement down, you just need the second pair. Fourthly, the peddles should angle downward, not up to meet the legs. While LEGO makes this hard with their minifig design, it is possible using rubber bands. (see my 74-Z)

That's all I can think of off the top of my head, but I'm sure Mr. fallenangel327 will be along shortly to point out any dimensional errors. That said, this is a very good starting model, better than most I've seen.

Edited December 12, 2010 by Brickdoctor

[XimenaPaulina]

Ah, another BARC, I hope you don't mind I'll give my POVs too.

First, the positives: I like how you made the front part 1-stud wide, IMO that is the way to go achieving the slim orientation in the front. For me, a 2-stud wide seat transforming into the 1-stud front is already the tapering into somehow of a point. I also like the unique way you made your control sticks, quite clever use of minifig hands. The foot breaks are nice details too, something that is always left off most BARC MOCs.

Now, for the constructive criticisms, I feel the rear slope part needs to be a little longer, probably by 1 more stud and tapered into more of a point (less thickness at the point). And like what Doc said, the front needs some air intake 'hole' in it. Also, though it looks good in grey, but white is always the more accurate color IMO.

Overall, I like it a lot, good job on this one!

[Brickdoctor]

Ah, another BARC, I hope you don't mind I'll give my POVs too.

First, the positives: I like how you made the front part 1-stud wide, IMO that is the way to go achieving the slim orientation in the front. For me, a 2-stud wide seat transforming into the 1-stud front is already the tapering into somehow of a point. I also like the unique way you made your control sticks, quite clever use of minifig hands. The foot breaks are nice details too, something that is always left off most BARC MOCs.

Now, for the constructive criticisms, I feel the rear slope part needs to be a little longer, probably by 1 more stud and tapered into more of a point (less thickness at the point). And like what Doc said, the front needs some air intake 'hole' in it. Also, though it looks good in grey, but white is always the more accurate color IMO.

Overall, I like it a lot, good job on this one!

I think light grey isn't a bad choice, judging by this pic where the speeder appears ever so slightly darker than the Star Corps trooper's armor:

I think the most accurate color would be very light grey, but there aren't very many pieces made in that color. It's a similar case to the T-47.

[XimenaPaulina]

I think light grey isn't a bad choice, judging by this pic where the speeder appears ever so slightly darker than the Star Corps trooper's armor:

*snip*

I think the most accurate color would be very light grey, but there aren't very many pieces made in that color. It's a similar case to the T-47.

Yeah, it really depends how we look at it, light grey could be the battle-worn version while a white BARC is a brand-new "Shiny" (rookie).

[angel06]

hello

The work altogether is very well made, but it misses detail or parts specific

bye

[BrickArtist]

All right, I'll criticize.

First off, I notice that your model is a straight one stud wide between the control sticks and the front. It should taper. Secondly, the 'real' BARC has an air intake with a fan inside it on the front end, yours is just flat. Thirdly, BARCs have two sets of control handlebars and all four sticks need to move independently. You've got the movement down, you just need the second pair. Fourthly, the peddles should angle downward, not up to meet the legs. While LEGO makes this hard with their minifig design, it is possible using rubber bands. (see my 74-Z)

That's all I can think of off the top of my head, but I'm sure Mr. fallenangel327 will be along shortly to point out any dimensional errors. That said, this is a very good starting model, better than most I've seen.

Thanks for commenting Brickdoctor, you actually were my inspiration to do a BARC, and yours is one of the best , I'm happy to get advice from you. The transition from singe stud, to double stud, is going to be a real challenge . Do you have any recommendations? I'm gonna start brain-storming soon.

[Brickdoctor]

Thanks for commenting Brickdoctor, you actually were my inspiration to do a BARC, and yours is one of the best , I'm happy to get advice from you. The transition from singe stud, to double stud, is going to be a real challenge . Do you have any recommendations? I'm gonna start brain-storming soon.

I'd go with SNOT and illegal connections. Personally I never though mine was that good, but I used tiles angled to make the transition.

[Fallenangel]

All right, I'll criticize.

First off, I notice that your model is a straight one stud wide between the control sticks and the front. It should taper. Secondly, the 'real' BARC has an air intake with a fan inside it on the front end, yours is just flat. Thirdly, BARCs have two sets of control handlebars and all four sticks need to move independently. You've got the movement down, you just need the second pair. Fourthly, the peddles should angle downward, not up to meet the legs. While LEGO makes this hard with their minifig design, it is possible using rubber bands. (see my 74-Z)

That's all I can think of off the top of my head, but I'm sure Mr. fallenangel327 will be along shortly to point out any dimensional errors. That said, this is a very good starting model, better than most I've seen.

Don't act so friendly sir, you're forgetting we hardly even know each other... for all you know I could be a 10th grader lusting after my 9th grade sweetheart.

Anyway, as I've said, the Wars aren't exactly my area of expertise, but here goes...

Regarding the pedals, this picture appears to have the pedals angled upward. Oh, wait - the pedals themselves are angled upward, but the skinny bits they're attached to are angled downward, unlike your rendition. The real issue here is that the legs don't touch the pedals - though I think doing something like this might do the trick.

I realize that the taper is nearly impossible at this scale, but using these (rather than the 1x1 bricks) with the tiles attached with SNOT for the nose may work. In other words, I'm going to go with Brickdoctor on this one. Of course, I'm not sure whether this won't end up making the nose fatter, so experiment...

You may want to rework the section around the handlebars - it doesn't quite look right. That area is really weird on the "real" BARC, so I'm not exactly sure what's wrong.

As for dimensional inaccuracies, all I will say is that Wookieepedia lists this vehicle as 4.57m long, which translates to around 13.5 studs in length. That would mean this thing is (like most BARC speeder MOCs out there) too big. However, I don't see that - the rear section is the right height, the nose appears about the right length. The only really obvious mistake here is that the pair of large air intakes just behind the set should be farther back.

Nice job putting a 91st trooper on the speeder, but what's happened to his crest?

[BrickArtist]

Don't act so friendly sir, you're forgetting we hardly even know each other... for all you know I could be a 10th grader lusting after my 9th grade sweetheart.

Anyway, as I've said, the Wars aren't exactly my area of expertise, but here goes...

Regarding the pedals, this picture appears to have the pedals angled upward. Oh, wait - the pedals themselves are angled upward, but the skinny bits they're attached to are angled downward, unlike your rendition. The real issue here is that the legs don't touch the pedals - though I think doing something like this might do the trick.

I realize that the taper is nearly impossible at this scale, but using these (rather than the 1x1 bricks) with the tiles attached with SNOT for the nose may work. In other words, I'm going to go with Brickdoctor on this one. Of course, I'm not sure whether this won't end up making the nose fatter, so experiment...

You may want to rework the section around the handlebars - it doesn't quite look right. That area is really weird on the "real" BARC, so I'm not exactly sure what's wrong.

As for dimensional inaccuracies, all I will say is that Wookieepedia lists this vehicle as 4.57m long, which translates to around 13.5 studs in length. That would mean this thing is (like most BARC speeder MOCs out there) too big. However, I don't see that - the rear section is the right height, the nose appears about the right length. The only really obvious mistake here is that the pair of large air intakes just behind the set should be farther back.

Nice job putting a 91st trooper on the speeder, but what's happened to his crest?

Thanks fallenangel. The technique you've recommended for the pedals is a good one, yet I'm not sure how that would be incorporated into this MOC . What did you mean with the modified 1x1, could you clarify?

Edited December 13, 2010 by brickartist

[Brickdoctor]

Thanks fallenangel. The technique you've recommended for the pedals is a good one, yet I'm not sure how that would be incorporated into this MOC . What did you mean with the modified 1x1, could you clarify?

I think he means to put the 1 x 1 modified plate either underneath or in the forward section, and add a stud or so on either side, and attach tiles to that and simply bend the tiles towards the front to create the taper.

Edited December 13, 2010 by Brickdoctor

[BrickArtist]

I think he means to put the 1 x 1 modified plate either underneath or in the forward section, and add a stud or so on either side, and attach tiles to that and simply bend the tiles towards the front to create the taper.

Ohhh, I see, I'll give it a try.

Edited December 14, 2010 by brickartist

[CommanderFox]

Not bad brickartist!

The grey color is nice.

Pics are quite fuzzy, but the hand and feet controls look good.

I think the front is okay, but perhaps alittle to blocky. So maybe some work needed there.

Not bad though, and keep it up!

CF