Front Posted August 29, 2008 After doing the Red Walker a couple of days ago, I opened a box# 4884 (Designer set, with lion, bird etc.) to do a different coloured Walker. By the way, I guess that Designer set would have been called a Creator Set, had it been released a year later. It's a splendid set, where you get a huge amount of bricks for a very good price. I love that main model, a big Lion. Now the Desert Walker has no guns or missiles what so ever, so you may find it does not suit the Exo-Force team well. The design can be added any kind of armory needed though. The driver is an immigrant to the far east, here he proudly present his fast beast. Climbing into the cockpit, he is well protected from enemies, and the aircondition will keep him at the top of the game. Here a view from the front, as the walker approch the camera in fast motion. Notice the very wide steps this machine can do. Here a view showing the rear, while the machine is in a "get set" pose with the tip of a feet in the ground, ready to do a sprint. Now my next project is to see how the basic design could be used for a mech of larger scale. Stay tuned Front Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stauder Posted August 29, 2008 (edited) Great Moc Front! The design is a very interesting one, very posable. Can the head turn 360? The wide steps must be good for avoiding Sarlacc pits But I must be honest, and say that I am more interested in how you took those pics. Mind explaining please? Stauder. Edited August 29, 2008 by Stauder Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Front Posted August 29, 2008 But I must be honest, and say that I am more interested in how you took those pics. Mind explaining please?Stauder. I use a Canon 5D DSLR camera and is these particular pictures, I've used a 14 mm wide angle lens in the first, and a 50 mm macro lens in the last three. The camera is set to manual, and I dial in a shutter time of 25 sec, aperture f/11 and iso 400. That is I prepare to take a picture over 25 sec. Now the model is placed on a dark gray plate, and the camera must be absolutely still. Now I turn of the light in my room so it is completely dark, and then turn on a small diode flash light. Then I "start" the cameras 25 sec exposure, and "paint" at the model from different angles with my flashlight. That way I completely control where the light come from, and which parts of the model should recieve most light. The technic is called painting with light. Front Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stauder Posted August 29, 2008 (edited) *snip*Front Wow! Thanks for the info! I don't know if you are in the Review Academy, but if you are not mind if I post a quote of this there? It is a great technique! I will try this. Stauder. Edited August 29, 2008 by Stauder Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Plural Posted August 29, 2008 I love unconventional mechs, and this is as unconventional as they get. The cockpit reminds me somewhat of an A-wing as well. Good work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Front Posted August 29, 2008 Stauder, no I'm not in the academy, as I don't expect to do many reviews, but the academy is a great idea. Surely you should have a go at this. It takes some practice and tuning in to how long the picture should be taken, depending on flash light etc. The background turn out black, and it can be a problem when showing black models, as the kind of blend in. But ofcourse a white background could be put up behind the model, that would also recieve some light from the flashlight. A problem with doing this kind of unatural light photography is that the colours may get all wrong. I dial in the so called white-balance setting on Flourescent-light, which looks like what the flash light produce. That way white bricks will be white in the final picture, and not colour-casted. Finally I use Raw photos vs. jpeg, so I can adjust white balance before converting the picture to jpeg. After the photo is taken (e.g. 25 sec) the camera automatically takes a second photo also of 25 sec lenght, but with the shutter closed so no light reach the sensor. That is a so-called black frame that is subtracted from the real photo, resulting in a picture with less noise. You need quite a good camera to do these long exposures, but any DSLR or good "point and shoot" camera should be able to do the trick. In some cases I place the camera on a tripod, but often I just place it on the grey plate on front of the model, and use a book or something, if I want the camera raised a bit. Front Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stauder Posted August 29, 2008 (edited) The camera I use is a Casio Ex-S500. Unfortunatley for me, my camera only has a "slow shutter speed" and "fast shutter speed" setting. I cannot imput the number of settings... I wonder if it is time for a firmware update, if at all possible... I have tried, and made one interesting photo which I will upload shortly. Stauder. EDIT - Edited August 29, 2008 by Stauder Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Siegfried Posted September 1, 2008 Great Mech! I bought mine with the same plans but I still haven't managed to break it. It's too nice a model.... Thanks especially for explaining your photo techniques. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peg Leg Pascoe Posted September 6, 2008 Great job! i really like this moc. The colour schemes great and i can just imagine to way it would walk across the dessert. Good detail, yet simple. I would love to see you build more mocs like this! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Admiral Blockbeard Posted September 15, 2008 I wonder through here from time to time, I like mec's, never made any, but I like them none the less. Firstly those pictures are beautiful, It makes me want to go out and buy a new camera. One question, as this mec walks, how does it balance, it seems so wide with a low center of gravity. Regards, Cpt. PB Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
