Lego RC Motor 5292 power consumption

[aol000xw]

Hello

Assumption: PF Remote and Receiver can work both outputs at the same time.

If my assumption is not correct then probably I wasted a thread However If that is correct I got a problem.

I am using an IR Receiver V2 with 5292 on one output and Servo on the other output. When I try to run both at the same time the servo simply does not work. My guess is that the RC motor is taking so much power that the receiver can't power the servo. I guess the weak link is the receiver because I am using the Lego Lipo battery.

So what is it? Can't PF work both outputs at the same time? What are the real power requirements of the RC motor? Is one Lipo enougth for one RC motor? Is one V2 receiver enougth? Do the RC motor need the power of both ouputs for it alone?

Whatever is the answer any hints on how to properly power one or two RC motors are welcome.

[MrNumbskull13]

Try using two recievers, a V2 one preferably for the buggy motor. :)

[D3K]

I am also building a buggy with the same setup, but haven't come to the point where I can test it yet, so this is useful information..

I am going to use two aaa battery boxes, two buggy motors and one servo for steering... What would be the best way to wire this?

[AndyCW]

I can operate a single 5292 and a servo from a single v2 IR rx and powered by a single LiPo. Try doing it without any load on either the servo or motor. It is true that when I activate the servo, I can hear the 5292 motor "draw down", but no to the extent that you are talking about. It even worked with a v1 IR rx, just not very well. What you are describing seems like abnormal behavior and an indication of a problem. v/r Andy

[aol000xw]

I know that V1 receiver can't properly power the RC motor also it did not work properly with the AAA battery box, the thermal protector was cutting power all the time. With the Lipo battery the motor aparently worked fine... until I added the servo, then noticed the problem I am trying to fix now.

My supply of receivers is limited until Lego adds V2 to S@H thats why I try to run one RC motor and Servo on the same receiver, but the behaviour was completely unexpected. I'll try to switch channels and see what happens, as in the current configuration my 5292 is totally unaffected in performance and the Servo simply does not work until 5292 stops drawing current.

[clarkdef]

You can build a relay

Use two battery boxes, bridge the thermal switch on box A (Just solder a small wire from one end to the other on HL5L)

Battery box B will remain untouched and will power two motors one for steering and one for a switch (a clutched M and a servo would be good)

Now wire box A to the switch and from the switch wire to the one or two buggy motors.

I have a lipo mod which brings the weight of the battery box down by 140g and you can power four buggy motors from it easily.

Crazy setup I know But you avoid putting load through the IR so V1 is fine to use.

[aol000xw]

So on the drive motors you bypass the IR Receiver with an M motor and a switch. Good idea, I just expected too much from V2 receiver I guess.

[clarkdef]

So on the drive motors you bypass the IR Receiver with an M motor and a switch. Good idea, I just expected too much from V2 receiver I guess.

Exactly. I have not done this but it works in theory, the M motor would have to be somewhat geared up I think because the switch's return to center spring has to quickly bounce back. Not intended for a small car, more like a truck that has motors on each wheel to help performance and not look like a geared down robot while keeping weight down.

You could power four xl motors no worries and with the lipo mod eight no worries. One could go CRAZY WITH POWAA!

[AndyCW]

I am currently using a 9.6vdc custom battery pack with a relay to bypass current limitations on the receiver. The relay is made from a pole reverser switch, a PF med, and a hockey spring. It results in about 2.5 times more torque than through the receiver. It completely changes needed gear ratios and structure strength requirements. It is like stepping up to buggy motors all over again.

[CP5670]

I just use the 9V train speed controller with this motor. This seems to be enough, or at least I haven't encountered the current limit yet (as opposed to the control centers, RCX or v1 receivers, which power down very quickly).

[clarkdef]

I am currently using a 9.6vdc custom battery pack with a relay to bypass current limitations on the receiver. The relay is made from a pole reverser switch, a PF med, and a hockey spring. It results in about 2.5 times more torque than through the receiver. It completely changes needed gear ratios and structure strength requirements. It is like stepping up to buggy motors all over again.

Isn't this what I described? How is the system, anything that is annoying about it?

[AndyCW]

Yeah this is pretty much what you talked about. I sometimes have problems with the hockey spring re-centering the pole reverser properly. Other than that, 5:1 gearing is adequate to drive PP tires. It will lift a tire accelerating with Unimog tires. Getting the 12t half bevel to not pop with a 20t db was a challenge. It needed a double shear pinion support and 2 studs worth of pinion snout bearing. v/r Andy

[sunnykoomos]

I guess it doesn't working because of the current protection inside the battery box.Although it works for me even with 2 rc motors at the same time(same port on IR).....

[aol000xw]

So any hints on a compact automation for that pole switch with a medium motor? That thing is.... Studded!