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  2. I was actually contemplating hosting again if no one was going to. I've got no desire at the moment to run an anonymous game, so it'll probably be a similar format to Kintobor's Cosplay Mafia.
  3. XG BC

    [MOC] EMD FL9 6-wide

    nice model! the only thing i would change are the boogies. you have to somehow cover the wheels. XG BC
  4. tismabrick

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Hey @Berthil I also think that there’s something wrong on page 277 as @t0mster mentioned above. P.S. I hate your Axle Tester! It prooved that about 50% of my axles are not straight 😳. Thanks!
  5. M_longer

    Volvo L350F farming-style

    They are not bad, but it depends when they are used. In opened mechanism like this the would work fine.
  6. M_longer

    How to deal with the thieves

    He has banned me some time ago from one of his Facebook groups, because I have pointed few times that he is posting MOCs stolen by Lepin.
  7. Hey @Raskolnikov and/or @legolijntje, I just bought the instructions and started to collect the parts. Thanks to you both for making the model available! I have a question about the Technic bricks 1x14 (8 pieces) and 1x16 in LBG (11 pieces). I do not have these in those quantities. But I do have some in DBG. Does it matter if those will be 'mixed' in the build? I now have 6 LBG 1x14's en 2 DBG 1x14's (total of 8 pieces) and 7 LBG 1x16's en 4 DBG 1x16's (total of 11 pieces). Thanx in advance! Kind regards. PS @legolijntje a response in Dutch is no problem!
  8. I chose 30551: Cinderella's Kitchen mainly because of the pun. The original used 37 pieces, this one used 50, but most of them are quite small. I also build another Ninjafied Set Here
  9. Dave42

    How to deal with the thieves

    @Wolf_Zipp nice to see that i'm not the only one who prefers doing, not talking
  10. Cocoa

    LEGO Ninjago 2019

    I was looking forward to seeing this one IRL as the pictures didn't impress me. Hands-on, though, this looks stellar! The Wyvern - It's quite good, almost Green NRG good. I wasn't expecting that level of shaping in this build. Love the shaping of neck and head, and the use of the ragged texture parts throughout. Mixed on the wings, as they look too big. Main Fortress - The center is a bit jarring, but the function is very innovative! The builds for the fortifications are great, with many great part usages, such as the 2x1 round plate and small barb for icicles, the masonry brick, the use of the flag panel parts for the roofs. Since space is limited, it was smart to use the second level as watchtowers. It allows you to display figures on the exterior and interior of the build. Additional Fort - It feels incomplete. It doesn't have the level of detail that the main fortress does, with a lot more prefab parts making up the build. That said, the function they fit in is good, and so is the crossbow shooter on top. The figures - So many good figures! Lloyd and Cole's new garbs are among some of the best this wave. I love the look of the FS masks, and the spinner is glitter. Enough said. As for Akita, I love the ornamental look of her garbs, and the tail cloth element and hat/hair combo part top it off fantastically. For the baddies, they're alright. First, the Ice Emperor looks awesome in the white armor. Wish they would've made the other Samurai white as well. Speaking of which, you get three of them here. The "ice" printing looks uber fake. They're only good with the armor, IMO. However, the Samurai armor are among some of the coolest parts introduced in this wave of sets. Can't complain there.
  11. Today
  12. Rufus

    Rufus's Personal Album

  13. AfolFree

    [MOC/INSTRUCTION] ISD Monarch

    Note that the top should work almost as well as the bottom :)
  14. Nuts to the Falcon. The beautiful and graceful Lambda Shuttle has always been my favourite of all the Star Wars ships, and I'm delighted to present my LEGO minifigure-scaled version of this wonder. Didn't you already make one of these, Ru? Yes I did, and well-remembered! It was ten years ago, and a large part of the reason I joined EB in the first place. You can see it here. I revised it a coupe of years later but never publicised the update; you can see it here here (link to flickr folder). I had always intended to go back and tweak the original; however this is a totally new MOC. I started working on it back in 2016, but then we moved house and the LEGO went into storage for a couple of years. front The overall scale of this version is similar to my earlier version, and like the former is based around using the 6x3 vertical windscreen also found in 2015's System-scaled Shuttle Tydirium. The other major factor is the height of the rounded sides of the body: I've used the 4-wide cylinders to give what I think is the best approximation to the real thing. These are attached via a fairly complicated variety of SNOT techniques to a ten plate-high body. Not all the parts are (yet) available in white (the macaroni tiles now are, but not the 4x4 round plates with 2x2 hole), hence the splashes of grey at the sides (or trans-clear in one spot). Starboard The wings are a composite of Technic liftarms and plates. I chose this to keep the weight of the wings down; even built like this I had to work quite hard to prevent the wings flopping down too easily. Some more views: Rear High I've tried quite hard to make this accurate to the movies. There are actually two distinct versions in the movie canon - the sleek ILM model used in the space scenes, and the shorter droopier-nosed version which featured in the Home One hangar scene. The cause of this discrepancy is apparently due to the set designers at Elstree studios in the UK having access only to a few photos of the lambda, but not the ILM model itself thousands of miles away in California. If you are interested, and for a nostalgic reminder of what the Internet looked like in the early naughties, check out Lambda-class Shuttles: the Dimorphism Blooper. I've modelled this one on the ILM studio model. Mostly, I think it is accurate, but I have had to make a few compromises. The cockpit taper - which is only about a stud-width at this scale - is impossible to render without resorting to a solid-black windscreen, and instead is implied by the exaggerated taper of the cockpit sides. The cockpit is a little deeper than the original - required to allow minifigure seating at this scale; the original Kenner toys model did something similar. High close/detail I've take a bit of a guess at the sloping vent-thing under the vertical fin; it is difficult to tell from reference pictures what this is supposed to be. Pressing the silver grille-tile just in front of this operates a latch to allow the body to open. In some places aesthetics wins over accuracy. The bulges on the side of the fuselage should rise to about half-way up the fuselage sides, and should extend back about half-way along the body, but I was so happy with the effect of the mudguard pieces here that I've left them as they are. Detail Front The seven-wide cockpit does not allow a complete set of grille tiles at the front. I may have to resort to a decal on the central tile. The technic skis at the sides would perhaps work better with the pointy-ends at the front but there was no way to attach them that way round (and they could do with being two studs shorter!). There are few canon reference images of the rear. Rather than the usual blanket trans-blue tiles, I have instead tried to show what the engines might look like under the exhaust glow - inspired by this superb render by Thad Clevenger. The vents end up looking a little square; it might be possible to improve this with decals. Rear detail The extremes of the rounded rear end look a bit square, but this is the best solution at this scale, at least until LEGO produces this piece in 2x2. Here's a view from beneath. You can see the taper of cockpit sides, and how the technic skis are a little easy to knock out of position . underside One of the major challenges I faced was attaching the rounded sides of the body SNOT to the studs-up frame. Mostly this is achieved with SNOT brackets, but there was no room for this on the forward sections, which are actually attached via an internal clip. Inside here are two very hard shock absorbers which are intended to encourage the wings to sit in either 'up' or 'down' positions; see here. The smooth sections in the middle are the landing gear doors. An essential feature of any Lambda is that it must be able to fold its wings in order to land. With this, the wing-mounted guns need to fold outwards. I've also included a chin-ramp, though it is hinged a little further back into the body of the ship than on the real thing. Landed front low As you can hopefully see, there is also landing gear, with folding flaps to cover the recesses. It is retractable, as shown below: Landing gear detail The shock-absorber parts act as a kind of suspension when the ship is landed, and provide a spring action when folding to keep the retracted gear in place. It works surprisingly well. Towards the front of the above picture, you can see the cockpit floor is mounted at a half-stud offset, which allows two figures to be seated side-by-side. Having experimented with several ways to allow the cockpit to open, I found that having the nose section slide off provided the best compromise between accessibility and strength. Cockpit interior detail As you can see, the white 4L bars that frame the windscreen are held on by droid arms, and the sloping cockpit sides held in place at the front by 1L bars with claws. It's a bit fiddly to put together. The 1x4 trans tile at the rear unfortunately exposes the asymmetry inherent in any odd stud-width construction; if it were available in trans-black the stud might be better hidden! Access to the inside is easy: the whole top slides off. The red Technic liftarm at the front is a latch to keep the roof in place; it is released by pressing down the metallic silver grille tile. I've also removed a side wall for the photo. Interior I had in mind that this is the shuttle Darth Vader uses to transport Luke from Endor to the Death Star II. It is kitted out for high-ranking officers, with an Imperial Coffee Machine and an Imperial Waffle maker. For a size comparison, here's my Lambda next to the latest official playset version. Comparison to system set I really liked that set, despite is obvious compromises of proportion (and I infinitely prefer it to the hideous UCS set). I like to think that mine is on the same approximate scale to this but more proportionally accurate. The Lambda is the end result of a long process of trial and error, and I'm pleased with the result. I hope you like it too! For more pictures see my Flickr album. C&C welcome! Rufus
  15. Drew15

    Ideas for CMFs

    Hey Roberto, This is kinda a dumb question that u've probably gotten b4.... But, where do u come up with the ideas for new pieces... What is ur process for imagining them and then creating them. Thnx... and keep up the good work! Well i won't doubt u... I am currently learning Spanish in High School from another native speaker, however that's not why i'm responding. I just want to say that even if those letters are outdated, you could still use them to allow for more space for ur future ideas. It'll really just allow u to keep the same system for a longer period of time. Also one question.... What kind of Advent calendar are u making? City? Star Wars? Ninjago? Castle? thnx.
  16. Hello iuliand, Simon and Oldlegonerd Thank you very much for your advice on buying a game controller suitable for our purposes. My mobile crane 42009 is almost finished. Now comes the adventure with S-Brick, BrickControll and Bluetooth. I will report, also from the failures. Grandpa Lothar
  17. Well, here are some calculations of the different R's. A R104 = 32.75591 Inch. I hope that the calculating to Feet is right. (Inches / 12 Being European and use only the Metric system, i'm not familiar with the US dimensions. Way too complicated for me. R 1 stud (= mm) 1 Meter(= 1000mm) Diameter (= R*2) 1 inch (= mm) Feet ( = Inch/12) Diameter (= R*2) 8 1000 2 25,4 12 2 = mm = meter = meter = Inch = Feet = Feet 40 320 0,32 0,64 12,5984252 1,049868766 2,099737533 56 448 0,448 0,896 17,63779528 1,469816273 2,939632546 72 576 0,576 1,152 22,67716535 1,88976378 3,779527559 88 704 0,704 1,408 27,71653543 2,309711286 4,619422572 104 832 0,832 1,664 32,75590551 2,729658793 5,459317585 120 960 0,96 1,92 37,79527559 3,149606299 6,299212598 136 1088 1,088 2,176 42,83464567 3,569553806 7,139107612 152 1216 1,216 2,432 47,87401575 3,989501312 7,979002625 168 1344 1,344 2,688 52,91338583 4,409448819 8,818897638
  18. Arkeeos

    [MOC] Another AT-AT

    Thanks! Yeah, the 1 brick legs I think works really well, It also, actually stands relatively sound. Thanks! Thanks! I added more pictures to the top comment.
  19. LegoModularFan

    Inspirational Modular and Castle MOCs

    That’s interesting, I was sure I wrote a reply and sent it but, well, apparently not... What’s happening to me these last days? 🤔 Anyways, that’s a pretty impressive looking MOC @Digger of Bricks! Here’s another impressive MOC, not size-wise but... I don’t think I need to write why it’s impressive, it’s obvious I guess... ~A creature in the dark - Baba Yaga’s hutt by @Legonardo
  20. Id say it will be packaged with the blu ray
  21. @Matt Dawson @legoman666 What size diameter circles do those make? If I remember correctly, a circle of r120s makes a roughly 7’ diameter... so these r168s make like a 9’-10’ circle...?
  22. charlesp1138

    [MOC] EMD FL9 6-wide

    Working on my EMD FL9 Locomotive. I'll put up instructions for sale if people are interested enough to make it worthwhile. Thoughts? I'll change the front window a little in the end version.
  23. I’ll rephrase what I said because even though we argue a lot in every mafia game we play in, I think you’re a good friend to me. I wasn’t calling you out specifically when I said certain people, quite a number of people were upset at the mechanics of Pirates. Even jamesn expressed his concerns about a shitstorm brewing when the game was over when people found out about things such like the recruit and double scum night action. It might not look it, but I do understand your position very well. I like trying new things and experimenting with every mafia game I host, but I also take feedback from the players in the previous game, which is why I’ll be fixing a lot of the concerns people had and clarifying things in the rules. I’m hoping you don’t retire again because I think you’re a damn good mafia player. I’m also hoping you’ll participate in the sequel to Pirates which will take place later on this year. I want people to host between now and then so there’s not three anonymous games in a row. Plus I’m looking forward to Cosplay 3.
  24. sandtrooper

    [MOC/INSTRUCTION] ISD Monarch

    I'm about 70% done with getting the pieces for the build. Off the top of my head, the list below are either ones still being looked for or are hard to get in quantity needed. They are all available but can be expensive to get. 298c03 lever small base with light gray lever - black 6141 1x1 plate round - dark red 604552 tool wrench - flat silver 98115 - Death Star hemisphere - the bottom half is harder to get than the top 12885 paint roller - light bluish gray 75c14 hose - light bluish gray 3043 slope - light bluish gray - substituted light gray for this 85861 1x1 plate round with hollow stud - orange 6141 1x1 plate round - sand green 3960 4x4 dish inverted - trans clear
  25. There are some nice solutions for automatic pumps using an electric switch, a cylinder and and elastic bands. These turn on automatically when pressure is low enough. Here is an example of the idea: Another idea: It might be cool to have the pump on remote control instead so that one direction runs the pump and the other direction turns a valve to release pressure and slam the suspension down
  26. Thanks! There is space for a motorized pump, but does it have to be activated at all times in order to maintain pressure?
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