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Found 8 results

  1. Hello, I'm back in business after some years of dark age and I want to present you my new MOC, which is actualy a facelifted version of my older rat rod presented here years earlier. The model is build from scratch using current pieces and building techniques, sharing the main concept with its predecessor. Model features drag link steering operated steering wheel in cockpit, openable doors, detailed fake engine and fuel tank. I hope you will like it!
  2. Hi to all, I haven't posted anything new here for a while. It was started as a model team style hot-rod but I don't have any crome parts except this 4 wheel so there is! My main goal was make lowest steer-able vehicle. Ground clearence is about 1 plate/half liftarm. So pictures, 02 by nikolyakov, on Flickr 03 by nikolyakov, on Flickr 04 by nikolyakov, on Flickr 05 by nikolyakov, on Flickr 06 by nikolyakov, on Flickr 07 by nikolyakov, on Flickr 10 by nikolyakov, on Flickr 12 by nikolyakov, on Flickr
  3. Hello, I’m Kevin, 32 years old from Willebroek, Belgium. I’m now building a Castle themed setting which is nearly finished. My latest MOC is this Custom truck, I finished this in late November 2017. The car is based on a 1930 Ford Model AA truck with custom chassis, RWD drivetrain, suspension and several other details. I tried to incorporate as many technical details as I could. Since it’s brick built, those technical details don’t work, they are esthetical except for steering.. More on Flickr
  4. Hey All, Back again with another creation. Perhaps even zanier than my last creation using air, http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/428357 but part of an overall theme of builds I call FUN WITH AIR http://www.moc-pages...r.php/198856. This one is an air-turbine powered rat rod dragster. Try to say that five times fast! I am going to give the meat and potatoes first (pics and video), but a full explanation and details about the build is given below. I hope it is worth the read. Of special note although I spent a little more time on looks, the main purpose of this build was initial speed, so, again, like my last creation I really wanted to keep the weight down. Therefore no special functions/etc. were added and panels and other elements for aesthetics were kept at a minimum. This creation was built out of 100% LEGO, and no parts were modified. I am not going to post all the pics. If interested, visit the main page for this MOC. http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/429100 The main feature of this build is that it is driven by an air turbine engine. Building air turbine engines out of Lego has a very short, limited history. Youtube documents some turbines built out of Lego but findings are sparse. Those that were done were more like in 2009-2011ish and not much else has been done since. In addition, they were bulky, color-vomity, and limited in functioning. The turbine created for this build was designed to at least appear like a real turbine engine. Gearing is internal and is geared to roughly 9:1. The turbine is also fairly modular, can easily be taken apart by separating the two halves of which comprise it, and gears easily changed. Gearing to 9:1 (internally within the turbine) produced the best results for the drag racer but I also changed the gears and experimented with 2.8:1. This ratio did not work well at all and involved too many breaks in the drivetrain. 9:1 produced no breaks, slips, etc. In the main video above you can see it working, internals, etc. Building was a little more tricky than it might appear at first glance. But I have to say, I am happy with the geometry of it all. In my opinion connectors are much underutilized for structure/chassis builds. They can be quite strong when combined with others. As can been seen in these pictures, the rotor was a Technic motorcycle wheel. This piece offered many advantages. It is very robust and therefore the rotors would not bend/move to the pressure of the air. It is also pretty beefy. Once it got moving the inertia of the rotation kept it cookin’ for quite some time. The geometry added up perfectly to the encircling #4 connectors. Although the wheel got very close to the edges, as can be seen below and the video they never actually touch the sides of the turbine. The cross section shot above shows the internal gearing. Although the axles did not fully penetrate to the other side on the final model they did on the initial model. I tried to make the turbine as compact as possible without creating too much friction so I tried it as such (usually you want axles to penetrate to the other side for greater strength. Widening the turbine and adding liftarms between the gears below would have allowed for that). So in the final model I shortened the turbine and the space for the gearing (disallowing room for the axles to penetrate to the other side) and it worked just fine. I did give the half-bush space on both sides of the gears so they would not be flush against the liftarms and connectors (too much friction). I made the car a little customizable. Initially I didn’t think I would really add any looks, but as I got playing with things, well…. it just became more and more fun. One version is your classic rough, edgy, rat-rod look, complete with rat-faced gear shifter knob. The other is a more hip, night-out-on-the-town, pimped-out look. The drivetrain is the same to my previous dragster. Interested parties can look there for reference/information. Overall, I must state that I am impressed with the LEGO clutch gear, drive ring, and changeover catch. In my previous project using this mechanism we saw that using the LEGO gears, drive ring and catch held when trying to engage gears moving at an estimated 900 RPMs versus 0 RPMS (1500 RPM x 0.6 = 900) and the elements did just fine. Here, we see them engaging an estimated 1100 RPMs versus 0 (10,000 RPM x .11) and the elements also did just fine. In fact, when I stated earlier that I used different gear combinations in the turbine, the other being 2.8:1, that would mean I am engaging a gear moving at an estimated (10,000 RPMs x .36) 3600 RPMs with one that is not moving at all, and guess what, the LEGO elements discussed above worked just fine! I did not keep the arraignment because, like I said, it failed but this was NOT because of discussed elements. This is because it ripped apart the internal gears in the turbine or other parts of the drivetrain. But the catch, drive ring, and clutch gear all remained intact. NOTE: The estimation of 10,000 RPMs is just that. An estimation. I don’t have a speed counter and did not buy one for the project. Maybe I should have. I did some research and other similar projects and saw a range of 8,000 to more than 30,000 RPMs. Given that I was using much heavier turbine blades mine is likely moving at the lower end of that range. But, given the sound of the turbine heard in the videos, and when holding the turbine while it is going and feeling the gyrations, I feel that 10,000 is likely an accurate estimation. And yes, I did use lubricant. I took the motor apart initially after the first set of videos and saw no damage. I need to take it apart again and inspect for damage a second time. I used 60 PSI of air pressure to drive the engine in the engine-only demonstration in the video; 90 PSI of pressure when actually driving the vehicle. The last two trials in the video did not even use the neutral setting. As can be seen, as 90 PSI the car runs just fine with the gears engaged from the get-go.
  5. Hello, today I show you my latest MOC: The Roadster. My ’32 Ford roadster is probably one of the most classic and iconic “old school” Hot Rod around. Recently people has discovered again the old school Hot Rods with their smooth design, classic colors and without frills. Original and vintage Hot Rods are considered today as a treasure to conserve and preserve indeed they are sought after and very expensive. I'm fascinated by classic Rods and for this I built this Ford ’32 Roadster with the body of a Ford Model B, released by the American manufacturer from 1932 to 1934, painted in total black. The Roadster fits the V8 flathead with three carburettors and wheels are "oversized" respect to the original ones that were narrower (I didn’t find LEGO wheels that fitted well, at least to me). I used few chromed parts that I think look great on the car. I especially like the big rims with the chromed dish 4 x 4 inverted (Radar). The engine is made of light grey bricks with a touch of chrome. I like to imagine this Roadster racing at Bonneville Speedway in the fifties. Racing number: 74, of course! Below few pictures The Roadster in my garage, the engine has been overhauled and ready to be placed into the car The back: refined and graceful. The racing number on the doors The Roadster has been blogged by: The Brothers Brick The Lego Car Blog More pictures and details on flickr Thanks for your attention. All the best and happy building! Norton74 - Andrea Lattanzio Norton74 @ Facebook Norton74 @ LEGO IDEAS
  6. Hello, let me present to you my entry to Model Team contest. It is a rat rod derived from 1930 something Ford. Size of the model is 14 x 27 studs (edit: including wheels), it has functional hot rod drag-link steering connected with steering wheel, openable doors on driver's side (I have not enough hinges to make it on both sides :) and V8 show engine. pirate theme on passenger doors :) spartan interior, fire extinguisher is a must in such cars... this was the biggest challenge and my main motivation for this MOC. To make a compact and most realistic steering system and fit it into small car. It is quite steep but otherwise it works very well. Thanks for watching, and feel free to put some comments below!
  7. Ello all, been a while since I've posted an MOC here. Over this weekend, I've been working on a studfull build (haven't built like this for a long time) My aim was to make a small-mid scale rod, with realistic functions. It contains: 4 speed gearbox v6 fake engine Cowl steering (HOG) Not to mention the 'gothic' shredded interior. However, before I start the main bodywork, it's just that when I look at it so far, it doesn't seem right... Edit: @Jim - Thank you for the tip - I have resized them all to a max width of 1000, which should be fine! What do you guys think? - What's that thing that isn't right, or anything to improve? (Will post progress here too) - I will be finishing the build definitely! Thanks! - Enderman
  8. My very first Lego Cuusoo project got just published! Ed Roth´s Mysterion Show Rod http://lego.cuusoo.c...deas/view/58699 Please give me some feedback and comments. I will tell you more. And please go to see and click the "Support"! :) ************************************************** Here's some details about making of the "Mysterion". I have tried to learn new techniques. The frame with holes is 3-wide while the front section is 5-wide. The body is 7-wide but the interior is 4-wide and the bubble is 6-wide. There's also some SNOT design, for example the mismatching headlights, V8-engines, side panels, rear lights and top hinges. And as in the many recent creations there's no visible studs. It is also kind of "modular" as seen in the picture. This was fun to build and The Mysterion is also so far my most advanced creation. Hope you like it! :) *********************************************** Additional pictures of the real car.