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Found 3 results

  1. Video Found Here: Specifications: Number of Gears: 4 Gear Ratio Spread: 5:1 - 1:1 Shift Reliability: 99% Friction Level: Low Transmission Type: Dual-Sequential Synchronized? Yes Auto-stop? No Optimal Transmission Motor RPM: 15 - 40 Length: 10 studs Width: 11 studs Height: 5 studs (6 with optional support) Note on dimensions: dimensions are measure to the furthest protruding point of the transmission; that is to say, the transmission does not actually occupy all of the space designated above. Also, I know that the measurement for width is greater than that of length, (which is against their very definitions) but length was measured as being parallel to the drive axles. This is the transmission I used in my RHM Wutzwerg (http://www.eurobrick...opic=125571&hl=) supercar. It is a dual-sequential transmission, meaning that it is actually a pair of 2-speed transmissions (one with ratios of 3:1 and 1:1, the other with ratios of 1.67:1 and 1:1) which are shifted in sequence to produce 4 distinct, sequential speeds. It is very smooth and very reliable, the only potential concern being that it can slip under <b>extreme</b> stress situations; this can be remedied by added a gear reduction later in the drivetrain. It does also lack an auto-stop function, however I will be posting an appropriate stepper-motor shortly. Instructions are here: https://drive.google...XVFRGc. Before building, please read the following important notes: -Instructions are in *.lxf (LDD - Lego Digital Designer) format. Sorry, I am horrible with other Lego CAD programs. -Green marks the drive input, red marks the drive output, and purple/pink marks the transmission shifting input. -I do ask that if you use this in a model, you give me credit as the designer of the transmission. -Elastics have to be fastened like this: http://www.moc-pages.com/image_zoom.php?mocid=426942&id=/user_images/116595/1459193308m …so that the yellow part (orange in the instructions) is pulled on axis towards the shifting axle. -The yellow ribbed axle connectors in the instructions need to be replaced with the part below: http://www.moc-pages...595/1459193300m -Any questions, comments, or otherwise can be addressed to me in the comments and I will make an attempt to respond as quickly as possible. This thing won't accept pictures at the moment, so here's a full catalog of them: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/426942
  2. Link to MOCPages: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/426649 VIDEO FOUND HERE: Hello, this is my first post on Eurobricks. Anyway, here I present my custom supercar RHM (Rage Hobbit Motors) Wutzwerg. Note: this model is on Lego Ideas, the link for which is here: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/136011. I'm not really expecting the model to get either the necessary votes or to get turned into a set, but hey, I like to be surprised. Propulsion: 1 x L motor Steering: Front wheel with 1 x Servo motor and working steering wheel Drive Type: RWD Transmission: 4-speed sequential synchronized V2 Weight: 1.3 kg (2.87 lbs) Length: 41.5 cm (16.3 in, 52 studs) Width: 18 cm (7 in, 22.5 studs) Height: 10 cm (3.9 in, 12.5 studs) Power source: 7.4v 8878 Li-Po rechargeable battery box Estimated part count: 1800 pieces Suspension: All-wheel dual-wishbone independent Opening hood, doors, and engine V10 piston engine connected to drivetrain through transmission Build time: ~60 days Short Description This is my first vehicle to be built without a real subject vehicle in mind. It has less of a focus on performance than my other vehicles, with only a single L motor for propulsion. It also has front-wheel steering with a working steering wheel, a new version of my 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission (link here: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/422999), and a motorized rear wing. Introduction For this car I was trying something a little bit different. I had just designed a new version of my 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission (link here: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/422999) and I wanted to use it in a car, but I also wanted to build something a little less performance-oriented than usual and thus fit in more functions. This time, there is no original vehicle; make what comparisons you will, this car is entirely a product of my imagination. I think. Drive Train Part of my plan for this vehicle was to eliminate one of my customary 2 drive motors, leaving only a single L motor for propulsion. This freed up space for another M motor, as well as allowing room for the V10 piston engine. The V10 piston engine located behind the front seats, and was connected to the drive system through the transmission; as such, it varied with whatever gear the transmission was engaged into. Because of space restrictions, I had to replace the usual cylinder brackets with a custom rig, after spending a solid hour determining the exact geometry of the original brackets. The transmission used in this vehicle works off of the same principle as my previous 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission; this transmission is also a dual-sequential transmission. What this means is that the transmission actually contains TWO separate transmissions which are shifted in such a way as to produce 4 distinct speeds. What differentiated this transmission from the previous versions is that the switches were not hinged: instead, they moved back and forth in a straight line. This can be seen and understood better from the video above, and you can expect instructions sometime sort of soon-ish. The transmission itself was shifted by an M motor geared 10:1. Because of the lessened power from using a lone L motor, the motor had a gear reduction of 1.25:1 before being fed into the transmission, and then another reduction of 2:1 before the differential at the rear wheels. The car wasn’t fast, but it did pretty well for a single motor. Steering and Other Motorized Functions Steering was simple as usual - with a Servo motor and rack-and-pinion system - but this time I added a working steering wheel. That’s just about all there is to say for the steering system. The final M motor was for the rear wing. This was no fancy job, just a linear clutch and lever mechanism to raise the rear wing, but again space restrictions made the implementation of this system difficult. The rear aesthetics were somewhat compromised to make room for the rear wing & mechanism. Aesthetics With this being the first time I’ve ever come up with my own large-scale car, I didn’t really know where to start, and all the online comments saying “Making your own car is SO hard!” were not particularly encouraging. The front was actually the first area to be built (because of the awkward and inconvenient position of the battery box) and the rest of the car was built using the front as a reference point. Obviously, I can’t give my own unbiased opinion on the car’s aesthetics - many hours spent designing it have probably compromised my opinion as well - but I think the aesthetics turned out pretty well. Please, give me your honest opinions in the comments section! Reflections Not bad, I think, for a first attempt at making my own vehicle. Space was a little bit cramped because of the scale I chose to build it in, but everything mostly fit together in the end. It functioned really quite well: the transmission, rear wing, steering, and propulsion systems all worked without malfunctioning even once in the final vehicle, despite considerable use. That may be a first for me. Despite having fun crafting my own vehicle, I can’t see this as being something I’ll repeat frequently. That’s not to say I’ll never do it again, but I do enjoy recreating existing cars, and of course brand familiarity with my viewers gives people something to compare to. Enjoy the pictures!
  3. Sorry for the little bit misleading title but I was building and found out that unless the wire is in the exact right spot my XL-motor does not work What makes me so mad about this, is that it has happened to me MANY times (4 times) before and the motors are only about a year old. It first happened to my servo motor and I contacted Lego about it and then they sent me a replacement and I was happy about that, then a few weeks l was using 1 of my M-motors and the same thing happened, but the wire was already damaged from another project so I let it slip. About 2 months later I was using my other M-motor that was in perfect condition and found out that it had happened that that motor too, and then just now as a already described it happened to my XL-motor. I am wondering what should I do at this point, I want to contact Lego to get replacements but I don't think they will believe that within a year 3 of my motors have had the same problem and they have already sent me a replacement servo. Should I contact Lego and find out if they will sent me a replacement, or just suck it up and hope it dose not happen to my 2 L-motors? Sorry if this topic is kind of useless.