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  1. EDIT: Improved Interior -------- I’m a big fan of medium-size models. Ever since the first appearance of the curved panel (part 18944), I’ve been planning to make something out of it. And it couldn’t be more suitable than putting it on a supercar. Finally, presenting my first ever supercar - the Challenger. This MOC is equipped with 56 x 28 tires, making it a roughly 1:11.5 scale model. It’s really challenging to design a bodywork with complex curves for a supercar at this scale, hence the name Challenger. BODYWORK Normally wheel arch made of liftarms has flexible axles inside, but I choose to use rigid hose because it’s slightly better than soft axle in terms of keeping shape when the desired curve is short and subtle. Together with the curved panel, they create a beautiful silhouette. Even though this MOC looks like a Porsche, and indeed it is mainly based on Porsche design, but it is not a Porsche. Especially when you look at the rear end, it’s definitely not a typical Porsche style. Actually the whole bodywork referenced several car brands, it’s more of a combination of all my favorite parts from different design styles along with some of my own thoughts. DRIVETRAIN & SUSPENSIONS It is powered by 2 L motors, and steered by servo motor. Front suspension is a conventional independent suspension; rear suspension is a multi-link suspension which incorporates what is called a Watt’s link. It works just like a Panhard rod, but slightly different from Panhard rod. PERFORMANCE COMPROMISES & IMPERFECTIONS Due to limitation of the size, I really couldn’t put everything I want into this MOC. One big problem is the seat. Since the motors take too much interior space, the seats have to sit high on the motors, while in a real car they are much closer to the floor. And they don’t look like racing seats. Secondly the rear suspension is really stiff and suspension travel is short, so it couldn’t take full advantage of the Watt’s link. Also the absence of working headlights and taillights and the noncontinuous curve of this liftarm-made wheel arch are the compromises I have to make. Anyway, I’m basically satisfied with this MOC, it’s a good start of creating motorized medium-size supercar for me. Hope you guys like it And happy Chinese New Year!
  2. REVIEW - 42096 - PORSCHE 911 RSR INTRODUCTION Not too long ago, 2016 to be precise, I wrote a review about a big orange Technic Porsche. Only 2,5 years later a new Porsche is added to the Technic range! This new Porsche 911 RSR uses the same wheel arches as the 42056, but slightly smaller tires. It's hard to qualify the exact scale, but for roughly half the price, we can expect less detail than the previous one. At first glance I am very happy with the looks and especially the color scheme. Looking at the name of the set, the color scheme wasn't a surprise, since this is how the actual model looks like. That diffuser means serious business. Edit: The wheel arches are a different size than the ones we already know. They are two studs shorter. Thanks to @LvdH for pointing it out. This review might be less detailed than usual, but time was limited. Sorry about that. I do hope you enjoy it anyway! PICTURES Pictures can be clicked to view hi-res versions. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by the CEE Team of TLG. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefore, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. SET INFORMATION Number: 42096 Title: Porsche 911 RSR Theme: Technic Released: 2019 Part Count: 1580 Box Weight: 2266 gram Box Dimensions: 47,7 cm x 37,2 cm x 9,0 cm Set Price (RRP): € 149,99 Price per Part: € 0,095 Links: Brickset, Bricklink THE BOX CONTENTS OF THE BOX The box contains: 1x Sealed booklet 2x Sticker sheet 4x Tires 13x Unnumbered bag BOOKLET STICKER SHEETS Two sticker sheets, with loooooots of stickers. There is even a completely white sticker, without a print. Seriously?! TIRES BAGS HIGHLIGHTED PARTS WHEEL ARCHES Okay, let's get the big black-red-grey-white elephant out of the room. If you know a bit about TLG's sticker policy you will know that TLG avoids applying stickers to curved surfaces. And by curved I mean curved in multiple directions. So, it wasn't (or rather should not have been) a surprise that the wheel arches are printed. But man o man....are you kidding me?! These look like stickers I applied after a couple of brewskies....several brewskies....lots of brewskies! I totally understand the difficulty of printing these parts, but I expect more from a company claiming that only the best is good enough. Two thumbs down for these arches. These wheel arches are slightly smaller than the ones on the 42056 by the way. I somehow missed this when I was building the model and writing the review CANOPY Clever use of the Windscreen 6 x 4 x 2 1/3 Bubble Canopy with Handle. 7 x 3 CURVED PANEL I almost missed this one, but it's the first time we get this one in white. 3 x 13 CURVED PANEL Thank you TLG for finally providing this part in white! BANANA GEARS We have seen these 11x11 Curved Racks in the Rough Terrain crane, but they are cleverly used in this set too. PINS AND CONNECTORS Not all of these connectors are new, but the Pin with Ball Joint has never been released in red. And the Pin with Pin Hole has never been released in white before. And the Axle with Pin Hole has never been released in black before. PART LIST The part list for all of the 1580 parts. THE BUILD Unsurprisingly, we start building the chassis, with the rear suspension. Here's the front suspension with steering rack. The chassis with front and rear suspension. The single seat and steering wheel have been added. The water-cooled six cylinder 4.0 liter boxer with 510 hp (375 kW) has been placed behind the driver's seat. Wheel arches and doors have been added. The car is taking shape. Yes, there is a sticker with track information applied to the inner side of the door. In case you get lost hehe. The front of the car looks spectacular. I love the usage of the "banana gears" and curved panels. I also like the canopy parts. I know they make the car look like a frog, but I still like ' em. They work for me. Like the front, the rear of the car looks stunning too. I absolutely love that big bad-ass diffuser. The hoses and panels complete the package, along with the big spoiler. Thumbs up for the rear. These are the left-over parts. COMPLETED MODEL We proudly present the Frog 911 RSR. I'm just joking, because I absolutely love the looks on this car. The color scheme is spot on. Maybe it's because I am working on a Mindstorms project with the same color scheme The gap behind the front wheel is actually present on the real car as well, so it's by design. Obligatory picture of the chassis. Isn't she a beauty?! I love this shot. What I don't like is the abundance of white stickers. And by white, I mean actually white. The color of the stickers don't match the white on the panels, at all. A very simple solution would have been to print the stickers off-white, instead of pure white. Printing the stickers in pure white even resulted in the need to apply a totally white sticker to one of the roof panels. A white sticker to match the other roof stickers, otherwise the color difference would have been even more obvious. I can't get my head around this approach, because a very simple solution seems to be available. Another approach would be transparent stickers, but I haven't seen those in a while. The doors and the engine cover open up. Combined with fake engine, steering and suspension, that pretty much sums up the functionality in this car. There is no HoG (Hand of God) steering, which is a huge let down for me. I can imagine the people at Porsche had a say in this. Makes you wonder whether the licensed approach, over proper functions, is the right path for TLG to take. The wind shield wiper is fixed in place by the way. The side view shows that the wheels are slightly too small for the car. Or the wheel arches are slightly too big hehe. The size of the wheels just doesn't feel right. Of course, there is limited choice in wheels, so I understand this choice. No biggie. All things considered, the car is eye candy! A final view of the rear, because this is most likely the part of the car that you will see most, unless you are a really good racing driver COMPARISON WITH 42056 This review would not be complete without a comparison with the 42056 - Porsche GT3 RS. When you are building this model, you get the feeling that you are building more or less the same scale, maybe because of the wheel arches. But looking at the comparison images it is clear that this model is indeed a different scale. This obviously explains the lower part count and price. Both fronts have that distinctive Porsche look. I like the canopy style headlights. This picture from the rear clearly shows the difference in scale. The orange one has a much bigger ass I do think the RSR's rear design is much cooler than the RS3's. I know it's not fair to compare a street-legal car with a circuit racer. I would love to see someone give a go at an RSR version in the same scale as the 42056. Actually, I am surprised I haven't seen one made by @JunkstyleGio in LDD yet, but I might have missed it B-MODEL Like the previous Porsche, there is no official B-model for this car. I'm sure some fan made B-models will pop-up. SUMMARY To be honest; I am torn between two opinions. My first opinion is that this is a stunningly beautiful car. I absolutely love the color scheme and looks on this baby. I can't stop looking at it and it looks so much cooler than the 42056. My second opinion is that the printed panels and stickers look horrible. This may sound confusing, because I just said it looks stunning. Well, it looks stunning from a distance, in a cupboard or something. You can see a lot of flaws from close by. The lack of HoG steering is also a bit let down for me. Basically, there is zero playability, so yet another display piece. The 42039 had some simple functions, which made the car fun to play with. Like the 42056, this is just another display model. A display model depending on lots of stickers. Would I recommend it?! You bet I would. Why? Because it's reasonably priced and I can't stop looking at it. I will probably get a second copy and have a go at a Porsche 911 EV3 PROS Color scheme Stunning looks Price (you can get a big Porsche for a reasonable price) CONS No hand of God steering No playability whatsoever Awfully printed wheel arches White stickers too white Too much stickers SCORE How do I rate this set? 9 DESIGN I love the design and color scheme. 7 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Plain build. No interesting functions. 6 FEATURES Which features?! 6 PLAYABILITY Push the car back and forth. Hard to steer. 7 PARTS Finally, white wheel arches! Oh wait...they are printed...badly. 8 VALUE FOR MONEY You get a cool Porsche for a reasonable price. 7,2 GREAT LOOKING DISPLAY PIECE...FROM A DISTANCE FINAL WORDS Thanks you for reading this review. All pictures can be found here.
  3. Here's a build, I simply had to post here... Basically it's a heavy transporter, which uses 3XL motors powered by BuWizz which can carry a weight of a child and use that to tow a real life Macan: And behind the scenes video with more info about the development: For me this was one of my biggest and most impressive achivements, especially when you think about the forces we are dealing with here... Any ideas what should be the next pull?
  4. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
  5. Hi! I present my entry to the Rebrick Porsche contest, a 962 C Le Mans racecar. In this moc I tried out some newly developed techniques. I was happy that I could finish it before the deadline, many, many working hours, days, "sleepless" nights were required to make it. If I had to choose, the 962 C is my dream Porsche, it exists. A legendary Le Mans racer, the first race car with real ground effect, and a road version was also produced in the nineties. I tried to design everything to represent the real car, both esthetically and in functionality. I put every information, explanation into the video, so here I list the main features: - Full independent suspension, in the rear with rocker arms and angled springs - 4 speed sequential transmission with indicator in the cockpit - Automatic friction disk clutch - works when a gear change happens - Working front brakes with small pneumatic cylinders and air tank - Brake pedal works, too - Openable doors and removable rear cover - HOG steering and working steering wheel - Kingpin inclination, Ackermann geometry - Real boxer crankshaft (instead of 180°V) Details: Antenna, interior, engine, turbos, rear view mirrors, headlights, windshield wipers, fuel caps, fire extinguisher, instrument panel, radiators, etc. Video: Pictures: Gallery: Hope you like it. Comments, questions are appreciated, as always.
  6. I never imagined I would say this, but as of today I am the proud owner of a Porsche 911 GT3 RS. How cool is that?! Waiting for this set to arrive seemed to take ages, so I was definitely on cloud nine when the set finally arrived. The 911 is one of the oldest sports cars on the market. It's lineage dates back to 1963, which is quite impressive! Since the production of the 911 there have been lots of different versions, like the Carrera, Carrera S, Targa, Turbo, R, GT1, GT2, GT2 RS, GT3 and GT3 RS. The GT3 RS can be easily recognized by the race-inspired inlets in the front wheel arches. Due to legislation there's a grill in the inlets. It can be removed during track days, which will improve the downforce. The LEGO Technic Porsche 911 GT3 RS is a 1:8 scale model and is 17 cm high, 57 cm long, and 25 cm wide. It has been designed by Andrew Woodman and Uwe Wabra. When TLG started the initial drafts in 2013, the Porsche 911 GT3 RS project remained top secret. Therefore TLG had to build the first LEGO version using photos of the camouflaged prototype of the original from the internet. The first LEGO prototype was ready in a matter of weeks. Like every sports car with the Porsche emblem on the hood, the LEGO version of the Porsche 911 GT3 RS also combines design, performance, and functionality. Still concealed in black-and-white foil as a mystery model at the Nuremberg toy fair late January, the color of the characteristic bodywork has now been revealed and shines in bright orange. Thus, it corresponds to the special coating of the original sports car in lava orange authentically. With the right skills you can get the GT3 RS around the Nürburgring in 7 minutes and 20 seconds. Factory driver Brendon Hartley took it for a spin on the Nardo circuit in Italy. The video can be found here. When you talk about a genuine sports car, you immediately talk about performance, which is pretty impressive, to say the least. Let's take a look at the specs: Horsepower: 368 kW or 500 pk (at 8.250 rpm) 0 - 100 km/h: 3,3 sec 0 - 200 km/h: 10,9 sec Top Track Speed: 310 km/h or 193 mph Price: around 250.000 euro (no extras, Dutch price) If you are interested in buying (or configuring) your own 911 GT3 RS, you can click here and indulge yourself. Instead of buying or configuring we will be building a Porsche 911 GT3 RS today. That's something not a lot of people could say, until now! Although I must admit that even though this version is a fraction of the price of the real car, it still has a pretty heavy price tag. Forking out 300 euros for a collection of ABS isn't something everyone will understand. Before we start I like to point out some of the questions which have arisen. For example; why is this set rated 16+ while the Mercedes is 12-16 year? Is the price tag of 300 euros justified? Does this model replicate some of the real world mechanics? Does the luxury packaging add any value to this set? These are just some of the questions I will be answering in this review. This review will have a different setup than my regular reviews. Since this sets focuses on the entire experience instead of the model alone, I will try to share this experience in my review. Instead of opening the box, discussing the parts and taking you through the build, like I usually do, I like to focus on the different aspects of the set and model. When it comes to the model, I will try to compare it with it's real life counterpart. TLG made a teaser for this set using the word Ultimate. There will be little discussion about the real Porsche's association with this word. But will it's LEGO counterpart live up to the expectations?! I think it's time to move onto the interesting part and find out whether this LEGO Technic set also deserves the predicate Ultimate. PICTURES Pictures can be clicked to view hi-res versions. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by the CEE Team of TLG. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefor, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. Number: 42056 Title: Porsche 911 GT3 RS Theme: Technic Released: 2016 Part Count: 2704 Box Weight: 4,8 kg (approx) Box Dimensions: 47,1 cm x 37,3 cm x 14,7 Set Price (MSRP): € 300 Price per Part: € 0,111 Links: Brickset, Bricklink Will this be a Limited Edition set? No, it will be as limited as other Technic sets. Which is also stated in the press release: The exclusive LEGO set of the exceptional sports car, which has been developed in close conjunction with Porsche AG, will initially be available at from June 1st, 2016, as well as in the 13 LEGO stores throughout Germany and Austria. It will be available in other stores from August 1st, 2016. This means that when you are reading this review, the set is already available, which is usually not the case with other Technic sets. The box is a key feature of this set. Instead of a regular Technic box, this set is packaged like the 41999 - Crawler Exclusive Edition. The term Exclusive indicates that we are dealing with a special set, which is obviously the case for the Porsche as well. The following question (asked by JGW3000) is more than justified: Since the box presentation is a key feature of this set, perhaps Jim can comment on packaging and outer packing used to protect the box, so we can determine if we should go to a LEGO store or risk mail order in order to purchase this. In my Review of the 42043 - Mercedes Arocs I explained that my box was severely damaged. Obviously that's something you don't want to happen when you are buying a 300 euro Ultimate LEGO Technic set, with exclusive packaging. Lo and behold; the box arrived in pristine condition. The set box snugly fits inside the outer box, which avoids taking damage too easily. I am very pleased with the condition my set arrived in. I don't think getting the set in a physical store will guarantee a better condition. Thumbs up for shipping it this way. I hereby present, the Porsche 911 GT3 a box! It's way more luxurious than a regular LEGO box. Black and orange obviously work very well together. The bright color, combined with some post-crop vignetting really makes the Porsche stand out. I can honestly say that the box makes you anxious to open it. A LEGO box has seldomly made me feel more exhilarated before opening it. This is definitely a plus. This box is pretty big and feels massive. Since it's filled with additional boxes it feels very sturdy and doesn't dent easily. Since it's filled to the brim, the box isn't much larger than the box of the 41999. The width and height are the same. It's a bit deeper though, which can be seen in the image below. FRONT SIDE The front side of the box shows the model itself, along with the Porsche emblem and the set information. In case you are wondering what the 18 means in the upper right corner; that's not 18, but 1:8, the approximate scale of the model. It also states that this set is 16+, which is rather unusual. Hopefully we can answer Allanp's question at the end of this review: What makes this set carry the 16+ symbol? It isn't the largest or the most complex set to date, so why the 16+ age thing? BACK SIDE The backside of the box shows a top down view picture of the Porsche, along with four key features (interior, suspension, engine, upholstery). INSIDE The reason the box feels so sturdy is that it is literally filled to the brim. I can't think of any other Technic set which was filled like this. In the old days TLG used an inlay, but they never entirely filled a box like they did now. Showing the rims instead of packing them inside the box is a nice touch. The way the book and rims are being presented, is an indication that you are in for a treat. Another bonus is visible on the inside of the cover. It shows the history of the 911 from the original 911 (911) to the 2011 911 (991). The box contains: 1 x Book 1 x Sticker sheet 4 x Box with parts 1 x Box with rims and tires Each of the smaller boxes depicts what you will be building during that phase. I sure hope we will be building more than just an engine, seats, hood and a spoiler After discussing the box, the book definitely needs our attention. It's presented as the center piece of the contents and it's an absolute eye-catcher. The book packs a whopping 580 pages (including the front and back cover), which is unprecedented (not having seen the 2016 2H BWE instruction manual). Being designed as a coffee table book, it doesn't simply provide the building instructions. It also contains an abundance of historic information about the Porsche 911 and of it's LEGO counterpart's design process. Comments have been made that this book makes the set more expensive, which is debatable. Around 40 pages have been devoted to this additional information, which boils down to around 7% of the book. Maybe I'm simplifying the calculation, but this means this book can't be more than 7% more expensive than regular instructions would have cost. While we are on the subject of a coffee table book, TLG could have gone the extra mile and provide a hardcover book. This surely would have increased the costs, but you would get something in return. I'm not saying they should have, I'm saying they could have. Personally I think this book is fine, since it only contains about 7% additional information (concentrated at the beginning). It would have been a different case, if it contained more information throughout the book. Riffling through some pages of the book, we even see the previously mentioned Brendon Hartley making an appearance (top right image). The first step in the construction of your 911 GT3 RS is to build the drivetrain, complete with dual clutch gearbox (PDK), paddle shifters, suspension and the heart of the 911 GT3 RS, the 4.0 flat 6 engine. When you have completed all the steps in box 1 you will be able to test out all the functions and see how they work. Reading this means we are working on the fun part of the vehicle. Which immediately raises the question; is all the functionality of the car built during this phase? The first box contains 11 numbered bags. It even contains the new fender pieces, two printed and four unprinted. Will we be using these already in the first phase? Below are two images showing the new (and orange) parts contained in the first box. New pieces are the orange fender pieces, flex axles, the 3L axle with stop (color coded brown), new wheel hubs, changeover catches, suspension with red finish, panels and a tile with a unique code (supposedly to unlock online content). Instead of taking you through the build, I will discuss the different technical aspects of the real vehicle and compare them to it's LEGO counterpart. The single most interesting part about this set is the gearbox, which you start building early on. The picture below shows where the lever, to change the selected gear mode (Drive, Neutral or Reverse), will be placed (between the two blue 3L pins). As you can see, selecting Reverse simply changes the direction of the gears. Does this mean we have the same number of gears in Reverse as we have in Drive? Yes, it does! It’s the year 1983. In the new 956 Group C racing car, Porsche is putting a double-clutch transmission – Porsche Doppelkupplung (PDK) – through the rigors of motorsport for the first time. PDK offers a crucial advantage: the driver can keep the accelerator pedal depressed and change gear easily by using buttons on the steering wheel, even in the corners. This is how it works. PDK is essentially two gearboxes in one and thus requires two clutches. This double-clutch arrangement provides an alternating, non-positive connection between the two half gearboxes and the engine by means of two separate input shafts. During a gear change, therefore, one clutch simply opens and the other closes at the same time, enabling gear changes to take place within milliseconds. Highly responsive and particularly sporty. More information can be found here In the picture below we can see how TLG implemented the double clutch mechanism. There's a clutch at the top and one at the bottom. This is obviously a simplified interpretation of the real PDK. How about making your own four wheel drive Porsche? Does the transmission have an output that could be sent to the front easily, like 8448's (asked by Lego Nerd)? The red changeover catch is probably placed for stability (you will connect a liftarm to it later on), but it also provides a possibility to turn this into a 4WD car. Of course, you would need two additional differentials, one between the front wheels, and one in the gearbox between the front and rear axles. What's the point of having clutch gear inside all this? (asked by Allanp) Unlike in a real car, there's no stop after the highest or lowest gear, meaning that you can switch the car from 4th to 1st gear and from 1st back to 4th. That's one of the reasons the clutch gear is used, since the axles/gearbox will generate a lot of resistance/strain at some point. Another reason is that it's there to prevent possible damage to the gears if two speeds get temporarily engaged at the same time while rolling it. Or possibly if rolling in neutral and engaging drive while in first gear. Here's a video of the gear changing sequence. I have temporarily attached an axle to demonstrate the gearbox. Obviously you will not be shifting gears by turning a gear. You will be shifting this car, using the flappy paddle gearbox! How cool is that! The paddles are integrated in the steering assembly, which is shown below. The right paddle shifts the car into a higher gear, while the left one switches down. Here you can see the steering and shifting assembly attached to the chassis. The video below demonstrates shifting with the flappy paddles. Bear in mind that the subassembly is not yet properly secured, so there's some movement, which will be gone when the chassis has been finished. How am I supposed to shift gears by the way? As you can see there's no convenient position to operate the paddles. You need to grab the bushes and elastic bands to operate the gearbox. I can hardly imagine there's no better solution for this. Extending the axle by 1L would probably have done the trick. This feels somewhat cumbersome. The best solution would have been to design custom flappy paddles, but I understand this decision can't be taken lightly. What I don't understand is that TLG didn't provide an extra set of elastic bands. The bands will wear out after a few years on the shelf, rendering them useless. Providing a spare set would have been a nice gesture. Onto a more delicate matter. Some of you might have heard or read the rumors about this set being potentially flawed. Before jumping to conclusions, let's take look at the supposed flaws of the gearbox. First of all, the gear sequence is incorrect. Instead of switching from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th, it's shifting from 1st to 3rd to 2nd to 4th. Say what?! I talked to Paul (Boratko, Crowkillers) about this possible issue, and without seeing any picture he immediately figured out that some of the gears must have been switched. As it turns out, there's indeed a mistake in the building instructions, or in the design, but I reckon it's not the latter. The video below demonstrates the incorrect sequence: I can (more or less) understand why this mistake has been made. What I can't understand is that this has not been caught before production. Quality control guys most likely aren't petrol heads, like some of the AFOLs. Let's take a look at what's wrong. On the left you will see the assembly when you follow the building instructions. On the right you see how it needs to be built. The grey 16T Gear and the black 12T Double Bevel Gear need to switch sides. the center gears are placed correctly. Here's a short video of how to apply the fix. The mistake has been made on page 267, 268 and 269 of the manual. So make sure to apply this fix when you reach that stage. After this fix, the sequence of the gearbox has been corrected. The gearbox is now shifting in the proper sequence, which can be seen in the following video: So it's all good now?! Well, not exactly. There's an even more pressing matter which we need to discuss. Occasionally the gearbox seems to stall completely. Take a look at the video and see what happens: Since you are not supposed to hook up a motor near the fake engine, the white clutch gear can't do it's job to prevent stalling. However, the main question is; why does the gearbox stall completely? And why does it stall so often? One of the reasons can be that the fins on the new red driving rings are slightly too thick. This will increase the change of the gears getting stuck. However, it happens quite often so I am not sure whether this is the case. The majority of the people building this set will probably never notice this flaw, since the clutch gear will hide the gearbox issues. But this set being The Ultimate, you'd expect the gearbox to function properly. The gearbox being the single most important technical function in the car, I am baffled by the fact that the mistake in the building instruction has not been caught, and that the actual gearbox itself seems to be flawed. Next time TLG better contact Paul before releasing another supercar This issue has been communicated to TLG, so let's wait for them to come with an official statement. Comparing the Porsche to the 42039 - 24 Hours Race Car we can see that the width from the end of the wishbones (where the ball joints connect) is 23L versus 19L. The Porsche itself is actually 4 studs wider than the 42039, two on each side. Compared to the steering assembly of the 42039. You notice the gear rack is much smaller, yet the turning radius is better. Two of half pins are limiting the turning radius of the Porsche. Removing them will slightly improve the radius, but the wheels might slightly touch the inside of the chassis, especially when the suspension is compressed. Here you can see the steering linkage, a pretty straightforward mechanism. Fitted as standard, the new rear axle steering with sport tuning combines performance and everyday driveability. An electromechanical adjustment system at each rear wheel enables the steering angle to be adapted based on the current driving situation, steering input and vehicle speed. The advantage for day-to-day driving: during low-speed maneuvers, the system steers the rear wheels in the opposite direction to that of the front wheels. This has the virtual effect of shortening the wheelbase. The turning circle is reduced to make it easier to park. The advantage for sporty driving: during high-speed maneuvers, the system steers the rear wheels in the same direction as that of the front wheels. Driving stability is increased by the virtual extension of the wheelbase and agility is enhanced by the simultaneous steering of the front and rear axles, especially during overtaking maneuvers on the racetrack. One of the coolest feature about the real 911 GT3 RS is the fact that it has rear axle steering. It even alternates between steering modes! At low speed it counter steers (to improve the turning radius) and at high speed it steers in the same direction (to increase driving stability). That's so incredibly cool. And it's definitely something we expect to see in The Ultimate supercar TLG is releasing. Unfortunately they haven't. I am very disappointed to conclude that there's no real axle steering at all. Not even counter steering rear wheels, which would have sufficed. Obviously having both modes would be super duper awesome, but at least give us the counter steering mode. Not sure why TLG hasn't implemented this feature. They might have felt the need to do both of them. But omitting rear axle steering altogether is a huge letdown for me. RECTIFICATION I need to rectify something. According to this interview on the Top Gear site, Porsche vetoed the inclusion of the rearsteer. Obviously Uwe was able to recreate this mechanism. Makes you wonder why it wasn't included. This electronic active damping system offers continuous adjustment of the damping force on each wheel based on the current driving situation and your driving style. At the press of a button, you can select between two different modes. ‘Normal’ mode is designed for sporty driving on public roads and on wet racetracks. ‘Sport’ mode is specially tuned for maximum lateral acceleration and offers the best possible traction on the track. To continue with cool features, or letdowns, the 911 GT3 RS has, what's called PASM (Porsche Active Suspension Management). This basically boils down to ride hight adjustment, which is another potential cool feature to incorporate into the model. Unfortunately, like the rear axle steering, this feature has been omitted too. The engine of the new 911 GT3 RS sits just above the tarmac. At the rear end, of course. With its low center of gravity, it was predestined for motorsport. Indeed, this water-cooled six-cylinder unit with four valves per cylinder, VarioCam and dry-sump lubrication with a separate engine oil tank could not be more ideally equipped for its role. The engine draws its power from a capacity of 4.0 liters. This equates to a power output per liter of 92 kW (125 hp), and acceleration that simply knows no limits: the sprint from 0 to 60 mph is completed in a mere 3.1 seconds. The real Porsche has been fitted with a 4.0 liter 6-cylinder boxer engine, while its LEGO counterpart is fitted with a flat 6 engine. The difference between a boxer and a flat engine, is the movement of the pistons. The boxer engine has horizontally opposed pistons (when one piston moves in, the opposite piston moves out), while the flat engine has pistons on each side moving in and out simultaneously. More information about flat engines can be found here. Edit: Techniccrack pointed out that it's exactly the other way around. So the boxer engine has pistons moving in and out simultaneously. Thanks for pointing this out. While the engine in the LEGO version isn't realistically correct, I certainly don't mind TLG choosing this solution. It would have been cool to see new engine parts, but it's perfectly understandable that TLG used the currently available parts. After 323 steps (of 856) you have finished 38% of the model, resulting in the chassis. If there's no additional technical functionality (which seems that way) this means that 62% of the build consists of adding body and interior parts. Constructing the gearbox is interesting, but the overall build of the chassis is a bit underwhelming. The engine has been completely covered by panels and other parts, which is true to the original Porsche. But it does prevent you from seeing the pistons move at different speeds when shifting gears. The calipers are looking rather rectangular. Makes you wonder if it would have been better to use black parts combined with a rounded sticker. This would have reflected the actual shape better. Another option would be to create a custom part, but we obviously TLG can't keep designing new parts. It's cool that they included the calipers in the first place. The rear side has double shock absorbers, while the front uses a single absorber (per side). The back of the car is very heavy compared to the front, so this is good decision. Another aspect which has been discussed is the color vomit in the interior. I don't really mind using colors in the interior (like UCS Star Wars sets), as long as the different colors aren't clearly visible. Clearly visible are the blue pins (especially two of them in the gear box (D/N/R selector). Shouldn't these pins be black? More on this later. During production of the real 911 GT3 RS there is a stage called 'the marriage', where the drivetrain is connected to the body of the car. In this box you build the floor plan of the 911 GT3 RS, complete with seats and roll cage, before placing it over the drivetrain in a similar way to the production of the real 911 GT3 RS. The second box contains 9 numbered bags. The orange parts, including a 11L liftarm and axle connectors, which I already spotted in the Maze set. For me this was an indication that the Porsche would be released in Orange. The floor plan of the car is built separately from the car, in a modular fashion. Note that the body can't be easily detached from the chassis after completing the model, so it's not a real modular build. Here's a video demonstrating the marriage: After the marriage, and adding the seats, the car looks like this. At this stage you have completed 531 steps (of 856) or 62%. I really enjoyed building the second box. Placing the floor plan over the drivetrain is gives you a sense of building a real car. Clearly visible is the roll cage behind the seats. In box 3 you start to assemble the body of your 911 GT3 RS. Starting with the rear of the car and then onto the build of the iconic hood, now with distinctive shaping. Then it's the roof, again with distinctive shaping indicating the lightweight magnesium design only found on the newest 911 GT3 RS. The third box contains 4 numbered bags. Since you will be building the body, this box mainly contains an abundance of orange parts, including lots of panels. This set contains the full range of available panels in orange, except the 5x11 Panel. If I counted correctly this set contains 31 black, 59 orange and 2 grey panels, resulting in a grand total of 92 panels! It also includes 18 frames, which is quite a lot. At the end of box 3 you have finished 79% of the car (679 of 856). It is starting to look like a real Porsche! I absolutely love the new-ish 13x3 Curved Panels. They work really well on this model. Thumbs up for the part designer who designed this part! Now you build the front before adding the distinctive wheel arches with air outlets only found on the 911 GT3 RS. Next you add the massive, motorsport inspired, adjustable rear wing before finishing off your 911 GT3 RS by adding the doors and the exclusive wheels. Like box 3, this box also contains 4 numbered bags. Also containing mostly orange parts and panels. This leaves us with a finished car...okay, almost finished. Next stop, wheels & tires. 20 inches at the front axle, 21 inches at the rear axle. For a wheel size combination, that’s a first in the 911 model range. The larger footprint makes another improvement to dynamic performance. The wheels are made from a forged alloy and feature a platinum-colored paint finish. The central locking device bearing the ‘RS’ logo is derived from motorsport. Compared with the conventional five-bolt wheel connection, it offers enhanced performance thanks to the reduction in rotating masses. And, of course, it ensures a faster wheel change, which is vital when you’re in the pit and the clock is ticking. The tire sizes on the new 911 GT3 RS are nothing short of impressive: 265/35 ZR 20 on 9.5 J x 20 at the front, 325/30 ZR 21 on 12.5 J x 21 at the rear. The last box contains the rims and tires (stored inside the box). As you can see the LEGO wheels have the same size for both the front and the rear wheels. I think this is a perfectly understandable choice. Different sizes would have been hardly noticeable, but it would have added significant costs. Great thing about these rims is, that they are custom designed rims for the GT3 RS. Another great technical specification is that the offset inside the rims reflects the real rims, resulting in a better steering geometry. The printed RS emblems on the 1x1 tile add a nice touch. What size of construction can fit inside the new wheels for when making custom steering and suspension geometries? 5x3? 7x3? 7x5? How deep are they? (asked by Allanp) Can you tell me if they fit on the portal hubs? (asked by Zblj) Hopefully the following images will answer both questions. The portal hub is touching the rims, so it's not possible to fit them without spacers. The image below shows how far the frame is protruding from the rim. Let's talk rims and tires! From left to right (links to Bricklink for easy reference): 42039 - 24 Hours Race Car (and 10 others) 42000 - Grand Prix Racer or 8146 - Nitro Muscle 42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS 8674 - Ferrari F1 Racer 1:8 42030 - Volvo L350F or 8110 - Unimog or 76023 - Tumbler 8466 - 4x4 Off Roader or 5659 - Power Puller This picture shows which wheels will fit nicely under the new wheel arch panels. Front view of all the rims. As you can see the Ferrari F1 tires are slightly wider and almost the same height. The Ferrari tires have a slightly higher profile than the Porsche tires. Hopefully this image will give you some reference as to how the different rims compare to each other. This clearly shows the depth of the different rims. After adding the wheels, you have finished your very own Porsche 911 GT3 RS! Let me start by saying that I absolutely love the looks of this car. It sure is a 911 GT3 RS, no doubt about it. I have read some criticism that the car doesn't look good from certain angles. I beg to differ. Taking in account that we are still talking about a LEGO model, I think this car looks magnificent. There's a gap between the headlights and bumper, which people have complained about. Admittedly, it would have looked better when the transparent dishes would be positioned half a stud deeper and half a stud lower, but I'm not too bothered with it. Here are several pictures showing how the model will look after approximately 10 hours of building time. I love the front view of the car, with the black gear racks in the front bumper/spoiler. And I love how the hood worked out, but that's because I love them curved panels Back of the car looks pretty decent too, although I am not really sure about the rear lights. On the other hand; these kind of shapes are hard to capture in a Technic model. EXTRA FEATURES We have spoken about the technical functions of this model, but obviously there are some extra features as well. These are depicted in the picture below: Open hood/bonnet Open trunk/boot Open doors Adjusting the spoiler (regulate downforce) A bag for storing your racing gear COLORS Take a look at the image below to see some of the color choices TLG has made. What's catching our eye, is that the decision has been made to use a Black 2L axle in the door handle, instead of the usual red one. Kudos for TLG! However, in the rear wheel arch they used a tan frictionless pin and a blue friction pin. Maybe I am missing something, but why did TLG use the tan frictionless pin?! There are no rotating parts in that assembly? Furthermore; wouldn't it have been a great opportunity to use black 3L friction pins throughout the model. This would acknowledge the fact that it's a 16+ set and it would have made bodywork look way better. This would also solve the blue gearbox pins issue. And while we're at it, throw in black axle pins, as the icing on the cake. I understand the regular color policy, but this set being a 16+ set, and the Ultimate, and blabla, catch my drift. 16+ AGE INDICATION This is the right moment to continue the discussion about the 16+ age indication. Asked by Allanp: What makes this set carry the 16+ symbol? It isn't the largest or the most complex set to date, so why the 16+ age thing? To be honest; I am not entirely sure. The build isn't that complex to justify the 16+ indication. My best guess it has something to do with the set being more of a display set than a play set. If it were a real 16+ set, all axles and pins would have been black and the instructions would have had a lot less steps. There's probably a good reason for it, but at the moment I can't explain why this set it 16+. COMPARISON WITH 42039 The picture below shows a comparison with the 42039 - 24 Hours Race car. While it's only 4L wider, you can see it's much longer. The next two pictures show the entire bill of material. A lot of discussion has been going on about the price. It is pretty steep, there's no denying that. But does this set justify spending 300 euros? I have tried to come up with a fair calculation, without any prejudice. Basically it's the same car as the 42039 (24 Hours Race Car), only bigger. Meaning it doesn't have Power Functions, Electronics or Pneumatics. Nor does it have an abundance of very special parts (some new molds and colors, which I will account for later). Both cars use lots of panels to make them look nice (don't get me wrong, I love panels). In my opinion a comparison with the 42039 is justified. I can even add the 42000 Grand Prix Racer to the equation. Also a car, more or less same scale as the Porsche, no Power Functions, Pneumatics, whatsoever. So let's do the math. The 24 Hours Race Car has an MSRP (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price) of 100 euro (same goes for the 42000). The Porsche has an MSRP of 300 euro, which makes it three times more expensive. The 42039 has 1219 parts (1141 for the Grand Prix Racer), so the Porsche should have around 3657 (or 3423 parts). Let's take the average, round it down and make it 3500 parts. 3500 versus 2704 parts. Something doesn't add up. Why am I missing around 800 parts?! Based on the 42039 and 42000, a Technic set like this should end up with a price per part around 8,5 cents (the average of 8,2 and 8,8 cents). Meaning the Porsche should have cost around 230 euro, but it doesn't. So, the conclusion of this little calculation is that you are paying 70 euro for added value. What can be considered added value? A nice book, special box (and packaging), new rims, and an official Porsche license. I don't think that counting the book as added value is fair, since any set of around 3000 parts will have a pretty thick book. The book actually contains around 40 pages without instructions. So around 7% percent of the book is added value. This seems negligible when it comes to printing costs. This leaves you with the box (including extra packaging) and the license. We've probably all seen the video where you see the packaging process, which is mostly done manually. Let's say the box and extra packaging adds another 10 euro. Still 60 euro to allot. For those of you who haven't seen the video; LEGO Technic Porsche 911 GT3 RS Sneak Peek from LEGO Factory in Kladno: Some new molds have been created (rims, fenders, panels) and a lot of parts in orange for the first time. Imagine this this eats up another 10 euro per set. This leaves you with 50 euros for the Porsche license. Maybe I underestimate the new rims/molds, booklet or packaging. That could very well be the case. But it's a fact that this model is relatively more expensive than the 42039 or 42000. Simple mathematics, no more, no less. I'll let you decide whether the added value is worth paying the extra bucks Almost at the end of my review, it's time to summarize how I feel about this set. Usually I am not overly critical. I acknowledge the fact that at the end of the day, LEGO is a toy. However, this is a different ball game. Being a 16+ set and TLG calling it The Ultimate made it clear that this set means serious business. UCS TECHNIC First of all I am really pleased to see TLG venturing into the Technic realms of what's commonly referred to as Ultimate Collector Series in the Star Wars theme. We've seen hints about this being the first in a new series, so I surely hope to see more models like the Porsche. UNBOXING EXPERIENCE When the set arrived I was on cloud nine. This is more than your run of the mill Technic set, so I was really excited to get building. This excitement continued during the unboxing phase. The box has a deluxe appearance and it's filled with nicely packed goodies. All in black and orange, which absolutely looks stunning. THE BOOK The books which has been included contains some cool additional information about the Porsche. Mainly before the start of the build though. The vast majority contains building instructions. Being a coffee table book, a hardcover would have been cool. It's no biggie that it's not though. THE BUILD The technical part of the build is concentrated in the first box, meaning that after 38% of the build you are done with the functional parts, leaving 62% of the build adding cosmetics. This is somewhat underwhelming. I really enjoyed 'the marriage' phase though, which gives you the feeling that you are actually building a car. TECHNICAL FEATURES Unfortunately, when it comes to technical accuracy there's a lot left to be desired. No active suspension management or rear axle steering. So two of the most interesting potential features have been omitted. Being the Ultimate it would have been cool to see both, or at least one of, these functions implemented in the model. GEARBOX The flappy paddle gearbox is supposed to be the star of the show. It's absolutely cool that TLG has implemented this feature. However, the mistake in the building instructions leaves you with an incorrect shifting sequence. This issue will most likely be corrected in a later version and/or an errata will be provided. I am not sure whether TLG will address the gearbox locking issue. This being a display model, I don't think this issue will be noticeable for the majority of the builders. The fact that Reverse has the same number of gears as the Drive mode is not accurate, but for me this is an acceptable choice. The flappy paddles could have been implemented in a way that you can actually operate the paddles, without touching the rubber bands constantly. PRINTED PARTS The RS 1x1 round tiles on the rims have been printed, which is nice! Makes you wonder why the 1x1 tile on the steering wheel (with Porsche emblem) hasn't been printed. It's plus that the wheel arches have been printed. This ensures the model still looking good after a decade on the shelf. At that time the rubber bands will be petrified and will most likely break when operating the gearbox. Therefor, it would have been great if TLG provided an extra set of elastic bands, for future use. PIN COLORS TLG has used a black 2L axle in the door handle, which definitely looks better than red ones. However, they haven't included 3L black pins. Instead they still used the blue ones. If you decide to use black 2L axles, why not use 3L black pins in several places. WOW FACTOR I showed it to some friends (non AFOLs) and the only interesting thing to show is the gearbox. Which actually doesn't really present well, since you don't see what's happening. You don't even see the pistons moving faster. Basically there's not much to demonstrate, other than it's an impressively big model. A very good looking, yet slightly boring, model. PRICE I have devoted an entire chapter on the price of this model, of which the conclusion was that you pay around 70 euros for added value. It depends on the type of LEGO buyer or builder you are (and the size of your wallet) whether this is justified. The price tag of 300 euro seems a bit steep for what you get in return, so I can imagine some of you will wait for a nice deal to emerge. CONCLUSION TLG definitely brings a unique experience, and I really like the looks of the model. However, the feeling that this "could have been" a better set predominates. That being said, I still think it's a must have for every LEGO Technic car enthusiast. It looks cool when you put it on display. And it offers lots of possibilities to modify. Or like brunojj1 phrased it: Seems to me like the Porsche delivers a perfect base for MODing and MOCing variations such as B-models or PF upgrades to make it a real ULTIMATE. If you are looking for the perfect set, you better look further. If you are looking for a unique Technic set with great potential, this is the set for you! ...and with this bombshell it's time to end Leaves us with the scores. 9 DESIGN This definitely is a 911 GT3 RS! 8 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Build itself is okay, the total experience adds a point. 5 FEATURES It lacks two functions and the major function is flawed. 6 PLAYABILITY This being a display model, it's virtually non-playable. 9 PARTS New rims, entire range of orange panels and new orange parts. 7 VALUE FOR MONEY Depends on your budget, purpose to buy it and other motives. 7,3 COULD HAVE BEEN BETTER I really wish TLG would have been more clear about the embargo rules. Pictures and videos were popping up everywhere on the Internet, while the review embargo stated the 1st of June. Additionally, the set already seemed to be available at some locations. Other than that, I still enjoyed the ride and I'd like to thank TLG for providing me this set! Thanks you for reading this review. All pictures can be found in my album.
  7. Hi, So, I'm in the middle of building my 911 GT3 RS and I'm at the stage where I'm putting on body panels now. I've noticed that whenever I spin the rear wheels, they both spin in opposite directions. Is it supposed to do this or have I messed up the build somewhere? Thanks Dark
  8. Hi everyone, i'm new to the forum. I've known eurobricks as a resource for content for some time now and Jim asked me to make an account. What do you think about my custom made display?
  9. It's bound to look bad after Brunojj1's mind-blowing McLaren P1, but oh well: Photos and reading:
  10. Now that we have two licensed Technic supercars, it's time to compare them carefully step by step, with special emphasis on the bonus category ;)
  11. brickverse

    [MOC] 356 outlaw

    So hard to recreate 356 using Legos =)
  12. brickverse

    [MOC] Porsche 911 (964)

    Here's my endeavour to model Porsche 911 (964). I wish this could be done in yellow, though there's one specific part forming headlights that is absent in this color. Hope in the future TLG will release it.
  13. hello, i have just bought the porsche 911 gt3 kit brand new on 15-5-2018 to build for my grandson, will i need to do any mods to my kit when i build it, been reading some interesting points about the gears not working as they should. if i do what stage of the build do i need to make the changes, thanks for reading.
  14. This is the second mod I have done to Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set. I used the same height lift as I used on my previous Porsche mod and moved forward the bottom arms in the front and the rear of the chassis to add negative camber. The car was able to roll without the body on, but once I put it on, it couldn't roll. This means the car is now purely a display model. As much as a JDM fanboy I am, I'm kind of upset with the result of the car not moving, but at least I'm glad that I stanced this car anyways just for the fun of it. Although, quote automotive YouTuber GasKings, the camber angle does seem a bit too much on here like "a baby giraffe taking its first steps." So, what do you think of this mod I have done? Is it CamberGang worthy? I think it looks neat, but I would like to get rid of the camber (and the height lift) so I can roll this car around again. Here's some more pictures of the car I took. Thanks as always for checking this out, and I hope you'll stick around for my next builds.
  15. I'm new to LDD and it's fun and easy to start with. Trying to design a 911 engine/transmission drivetrain with 5+R gearbox, shift linkage, 4WD and torsion bar suspension.. Which should be closer to the old air-cooled Porsche. Nothing really new and innovate here, just try to combine all the existed thing together. The final build should be slightly smaller than the official 911 RS (42056)
  16. Porsche Carrera GT Specifications Scale 1:8,5 Length 67s / width 29s / height 17s (54/23,5/13,5 cm) Weight: 2500 g Front suspension: independent pushrod Rear Suspension: independent multilink pushrod RWD Functions Driving - 2L Steering - Servo Moving spoiler - M LED headlights Working steering wheel V10 dummy Openable doors, hood, trunk Removable roof – like the original After a longer break I would like to present the Porsche Carrera GT. In my opinion it’s the best Porsche ever made. My nick commits, so I decided to build it ;) Original car was produced in 2004-2007, had V10 engine with power 612KM and the maximum speed at 330km/h. The construction isn’t very complicated. Porsche is driven by 2L motors with ratio 1,4. It eliminates resistance, which would be in the gearbox. Thanks to that the car is quite fast. My first decision was to place the Battery Box in the middle of the model for easy battery replacement. That’s why I had to build the frame a bit different, because in the place where usually were liftarms, now is Battery Box. The spoiler is moved by 2 mini linear actuators driven by M motor. The front and rear suspension is similar to the original one: independent pushrod. It works same as in F1 cars. In front there is also Ackerman geometry. For depreciation I used 2 springs from yellow 6.5L absorbers (in front) and 2 yellow absorbers 6.5L per wheel (in rear). Suspension would have worked a bit better, but it’s imitated by the original, and in the real Porsche all the links are form metal, here are plastic. The steering is really simple – servo, gear 12 and gear rack. I’m generally satisfied with the model, it looks and drives quite good, but the suspension would have worked a bit better ;) Pictures – of course with comparison to 42056 Gallery
  17. Here's my replica MOC of 42056 set: Porsche 911 GT3 RS in medium scale You can see many references to original set design and the Power Function system. Check the video: The model has: - PF: 2L, Servo, IRv2, LiPo - Full independent suspension - Floating differential at the rear - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Adjustable seats. The car is a pleasure to drive: It is quite fast and manoeuvre. Building Instructions:
  18. This is Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set with some unique rallycross-inspired features I added making it the perfect sports car to drive in the snow. Features Suspension system raised to make the car about two studs higher Wheels and tires from the 42037 Formula Off-Roader Mudflaps LED light bar Front off-road lights Rear bash bars Optional snowplow that attaches to the front The lights are fake and don't turn on, and all of the other lime-colored pieces are from the 42037 set as well. I had a lot of fun making this. I just had to switch of the area of the springs to change the height for the rear without any pieces needed, but for the front, I had to remove the entire Porsche's body to make the lift there using a variety of pieces. Overall, I'm proud that a got the result I wanted, which was making the Porsche 911 GT3 RS higher (so it wouldn't bottom out) and equipping it with off-road features so I could have fun with this set in the winter. It does need to drive in snow only about an inch high so I could move it without getting stuck (and so the plow can move the snow too). I recommend to anyone who has the Porsche set to try these mods out for themselves this winter! Here's some more pictures of the car and a desktop wallpaper that I created wishing everyone at EuroBricks Happy Holidays!
  19. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. The following summarizes what has been included concerning the gear shifting mechanism: I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). The following summarizes what has been included concerning the drive train: I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering. If there is anything unclear or if you find errors, please let me know. The idea is to make thing more fun, so all should be clear and correct. Thanks to everybody who shared his/her improvements!
  20. G'day all. So last week I decided to enter the Lego Porsche contest with this idea of a dream Porsche car. In Australia we have a racing category called V8 Supercars and since I follow this series and a masive Holden fan I thought well Porsche should race a car as well and that became my dream Porsche, a Porsche V8 Supercar. The car will be made in 2 parts, chassis and body.Overall size when finished- 570mm x 230mm x 170mm. My aim was to create a realistic car with roll cage and stuff but to have the body separate so that I can create other car brands to go over the chassis since in the race series the run a control chassis. If there is time Ill add front and rear independent adjustable sway bars. The chassis functions are: 4 wheel Independent suspension. 4 wheel disk brakes that work through the brake peddle. camber and steering geometry. 4 spd sequential gearbox. working clutch through the clutch peddle. HOG steering with a moving steering wheel. air operated car jacks. fake V8. V8 Supercar Porsche by Jono Mckinlay, on Flickr Hopefully it will be finished in time for the comp.
  21. I decided to open a seperate topic for this beast. Inspired by Letsbuild's idea to crawlify a Lego set, i decided to go full crazy and try to upgrade the biggest, heaviest and most orange set to date, Porsche 911 GT3 RS. First thing I built was the front axle, which uses the H frame as a placeholder for bewel gear, so there it no possible way of them to slip: Those with sharp eyes may notice the gears are not aligned, this was done in LDD development mode, more info soon The drive than goes directly to portal hubs with 1:3 gear ratio, giving the model 1:5 gear ratio on each wheel. Front axle also has a servo motor which steers the wheels and powers the Porsche's original steering wheel via a ball joint Rear axle powers the Porsche's gearbox via a couple of clutch gears in order to allow different motor speeds when steering or skid steering - Yes, this 4 kilogram heavy model can even skid steer thanks to its independent motor control. Here is the end result As with the original set, I kept the rear axle 2 studs wider than the front: For suspension I used 4 hard springs, which are hald compressed thanks to the model's immense weight. Due to the porsche's wide chassis springs are quite far apart, so the flex angle is not really big, but on the other hand that makes the model much more stable. Performance wise the crawler works very good, despite its massive weight, so far I had no broke U joints or gears and it has enough torque to skid its wheels on hard surface. Expect more pictures soon and a video soon.
  22. BrickMonkeyMOCs

    [MOC] City-Scale Porsche 919 Hybrid LMP1

    Watching the 24 Hours of Le Mans race last weekend motivated me to upgrade my 2016 model to this year's design and livery. The 6-wide design fits a minifigure comfortably, and features a detailed engine as well as a modular design allowing easy removal of the nose section, cockpit, engine cover, rear wing, and rear section. 2017 Model: 2016 Model: Instructions available at (click link in signature).
  23. Mirco Hussmann

    42056 Falken Porsche Mod

    Hello everyone! As this is my first real topic in this forum after a few years of reading silently, I will say the following about myself: I'm from Germany, just finished the Abitur and I love cars as well as Lego (Technic), especially Porsche, and I will probably start studying mechanical engineering this year. Sooo, this project was a pretty huge thing for me in the last few months. As a huge fan of their cars, when the Lego Porsche was announced I knew I needed it, and got it early this year. When it stood in front of me on the table, finished, I already thought about how awesome it would be to mod the sh*t out of this monster. I started with technical modifications on the gearbox, adding working door knobs, gearing the steering wheel up to have a rotation close to 900°, filling some holes in the body and including Didumos' Ackermann steering mod. After various tries, I kind of rebuilt the chassis for rc use. While the servo was pretty easy to throw in (while it was tight and a perfect fit), the whole gearbox flew out for 4 M-Motors. While at first I had one technic battery box laying on top of the rear suspension cover, I soon changed this solution to having two train bbs in the engine bay. The gear driving the differential which comes from the motors required the fake engine to be moved down as far as it goes, but this gave me the possibility to keep it inside. Next thing to do was the lighting, which I did by using the cables of broken PF motors to connect 10 white 9V LEDS from ebay. I then continued to see something new to be improved everyday and fix this one or that one, until I finally decided (about 2 months ago), that it is time to move on to the real stuff. So i bought RAL 6019 (the green one), RAL 5002 (blue) and RAL 9005 (black), 1200 ml each, and just started spray painting the parts. I did the panels and small parts laying on a metal sheet, rear side first, while I did the liftarms by putting them on a string with the middle hole so they spin when being sprayed. While the most turned out well after the first few rounds of painting, some got pretty ugly when drying, which I fixed by sanding the parts and spraying a thin layer over it. While the parts were still drying and between the paiting rounds I already did the interieur - removing the right seat, changing the seat colour to gray/black, removing the shifter knob, replacing the old dashboard, changing the steering wheel to a more GT3-style-thingy, adding a fore extinguisher and changing the orange cage to black. I also ordered the neon-yellowish headlight bricks, which looks hella awesome at night or even more in twilight. At this point, technical improvements had all been made, I solely focused on asthetics. When I was finished with the colouring, I had to decide how I would do the stickers. After I saw the extremely low prices for custom stickers on websites of printing companies (about 200€), I looked for alternatives. I saw a YT-video with a technique I didn't think of till then which worked surprisingly well. All the stickers on the car are made this way. Finally, a list of all the modifications: - Full RC, 4 M-Motors, 1 Servomotor, 2 Train BB's, 2 IR Receivers with nearly invisible placement that doesn't disturb the looks - steering wheel upgearing - several body fixes - head- and rear lights, neon headlight bricks - spray painted bricks and custom stickers - change of the mounting of the rear shocks so they are more stiff to carry the heavier weight of the engine bay - (still) working and repositioned flat 6 despite the rc mod - interieur, wheel and dashboard changes - new centerlock wheel nut bricks (no RS anymore :D) - carbon fiber covered exhaust pipes, that front thingy panels (no idea what the english word is ^^) and - diffusor - chassis changes to make rc mod possible While these were all my own mods, I also used two mods from other guys: - El Squattore's working door knob mod adapted to the large shocks - Didumos' Ackermann steering, also changed a bit because I was missing a few of the bricks. Man, I can't tell how many times I thought i just threw 200€ into the trash by f***ing up some of the bricks when painting them, but I think in the end it worked out more than just well. :) There's probably a video/car porn coming as soon as I find time and a nice location for it. Anyway, thanks for reading and let me know what you think of this thing!
  24. Hello! Im glad to present my new model for LEGO Technic Porsche contest. I hope it will be published soon at rebrick =) Porsche Carrera GT Features: - 1:10 scale - realistic Carrera GT V10 piston engine in mini scale - full independent suspension - rear wheel drive - HOG steering with working steering wheel - openable door, hood and trunk - rising rear spoiler Video below shows some of these functions. I recorded very simple video just for the contest, without any titles and sounds.