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Found 19 results

  1. The American Club Racing (ACR) model was introduced in 1999, starting with the Viper GTS (Phase SR II). Exclusive 1 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This model had suspension and engine enhancements focused on maximizing performance in road racing and autocross environments. Horsepower was bumped to 460 hp (370 kW) in these models, while torque increased to 500 lb·ft (678 N·m). Weight was reduced by over 50 pounds (23 kg) by stripping the interior and removing other non-essential items such as the fog lamps (replacing them with brake ducts). Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to its heritage, I've left this beast without bells and whistles in the name of speed.It sport a front clam shell hood, opening rear trunk, and spring back doors. The real catch here is in the speed and options. Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This Viper packs 2x Buwizz 2.0 (with Ludicrous mode) that power this monster directly to 2x Buggy motors. The gearing is accessible and can be swapped for a higher or lower gear in minutes. Ratios avail: 1:1 and 1:1.7. This model also has many build options: 1. 1 or 2 buwizz / 1 or 2 Lipo / 1 or 2 Sbrick 2. 2 Buggy motor or 2 XL motor 3. Fully manual car (just remove the electronics 4. Swap out the engine on the fly for a new one! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The Viper also has a rake to it that I also replicated. 1 stud off the ground at the front, 2.5 studs at the rear. Dodge Viper ACR- open hood by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Its been a pleasure playing with this car OUTDOORS (don't even think of play indoors, I smashed it over 10 times) and I hope you guys enjoy the video! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR - Overlay by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Flickr Album: Instagram: Crash compilation: Dodge Viper - Crashes by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  2. Long story short: my wife has access to an X-ray machine, so I grabbed a bagful of LEGO electronics and screened it all. The results are quite interesting, for example it's clear that the Powered Up M motor and the Boost motor have completely different electric motors inside, despite looking alike on the outside. Also, there's something crazy going on inside the RC unit :)
  3. Historical background: The experimental Aerotrain was built by General Motors using hard riding Bus Bodies for coaches, a new untested (and quite complicated) air cushion suspension system, and an under-powered motor originally made for switching locomotives. Two of these trains were built in the 1950's as a way to entice passengers back onto the railroads and out of their automobiles. The hard-coupled unit had one engine and 10 cars attached, including the observation car. These low-slung units toured the United States as a test of it's abilities. Needless to say, it was a tremendous failure. It toured on four roads including the Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe, New York Central, Pennsylvania Railroad, & Union Pacific before eventually being sold to the Rock Island for Chicago Commuter Service. In 1966, after less than a decade of service, one locomotive & two cars were sold to the National Railroad Museum in Green Bay, Wisconsin, while the other locomotive and two cars were sold to The Museum of Transportation in St. Louis, Missouri. The train can come apart (unlike the prototype Aerotrain) into 6 sections: 1 engine, 4 coaches, 1 observation coach. Model Notes: The original train had ten cars, which would be hard to do in Lego (and it's kinda pointless as 9 of then are identical) I have five cars on my train, four identical coaches and one observation coach on the end. My Inspiration for this model came from this Brickshelf account here: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=497396 and i give 99% of the credit for the model to Brickshelf user enquete-art. The other 1% comes from me, such as the reworked front bogie, front and back windshields, window work and using this numbered tile in red: http://www.bricklink...sp?P=3070bpb063 I used a lot of SNOT to hold the diagonal windows & front engine slopes in place. other than that, it's pretty straight-forward building. I found this picture on Google. It comes from a 1950's General Motors ad for the Aerotrain. It has been used by several different blogs and groups according to my search, so it should be okay to post here. Comments, questions and complaints welcome!
  4. The rules I am outlining for myself for this different no electric motors, no batteries, 100% Lego, and No Pneumatics. I am doing this because of the cheap price of Pull-Back Motors on BL, so I thought It would be worth a try! My first idea was basically to use a singe pull back and go motor and the large motorcycle wheels. It would look something like this: But It was not fast enough ( : So I have the Idea to actually add more Pull-Back motors. Using 4 of the newest ones I am hoping to get an increased speed using this method I have 3 more of these motors on order and am eagerly awaiting their arrival. I want to see if anyone else on this forum might have another idea I am willing to hear their ideas.
  5. Rezvonflux

    RC set/parts advice

    Hello everyone, bare with me as this is my first post and my make some newb no-no's I've been looking to order a set online with future hopes to install a Sbrick and have some fun with the kids. Now, i can't decide what to order...if i order anything at all. Was looking at Aliexpress and can't decide what to get. i want a good decent set that offers most of what i'm looking for in a bundle. Keeping in mind, most of the outdoor area here is either bumpy, grassy or parking lot. - maybe looking for racer, possibly F1. but i see that getting stuck a lot around here except the parking lot. - WHEELS and SUSPENSION ;) family are mechanics, this is the only way i get to keep my hands clean ;) - parts gearbox, 4wd... - was planning to get SBRICK, motor advice? With that being said, i'm thinking of a crawler/buggy type..... long suspension, big wheels, room for motors..... able to "take a beaiting" Any suggestions, I thinking along the lines of the 3335 or 3360?
  6. Well, I recently took the plunge, and purchased a few Sbricks for use in my creations. In order to test the setup, I connected some motors, and used a profile I threw together. The setup I used has 2 SBricks being controlled by my device at the same time, and my problem is that, with one of the SBricks, I have two M motors hooked up to it, and when I activate them, they run just fine, but when I let the joystick return to center, the motors buzz, almost as if the SBrick is not fully shutting them off. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the SBrick, or not, as it is one I tested before, and it had trouble with controlling my other motors. Is there a setting I am not aware of that would fix this? Has anyone else had this issue? Update: I tested it, and it seems to be an issue with the brick, although, in a bizzaro twist, I don't have the problem with sliders, only when those channels are controlled by joysticks.
  7. In this special film, we put our 6x4 pullback car chassis to the test by racing it, taking it to the skate park, and jumping ramps! The vehicle itself is propelled by two pullback motors. LEGO pieces were unfortunately harmed in the making of this video. CAUTION: This video is action-packed. Comment below your thoughts on the video editing style! If you like it, I can try putting together more of these in the future :)
  8. Last month marked the second anniversary of my YouTube channel, so I decided to recreate the first video I posted: a high-speed Sport Utility Vehicle. In different ways, my production skills have improved, and in other ways, not as much. I think I still have a lot to work on... do you guys have any suggestions? I'd like to know how my videos are perceived. Thanks to all who have been watching my videos and have subscribed!
  9. Any tips on ways to put it in and use it with nly a small amount of space? * I meant only
  10. Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has tried using one of the other PF motors (8883 M-Motor, 8882 XL-Motor or 88003 L-Motor) to power a train, rather than the standard train motor? I'm curious as to which is best for use in trains, as I'd like to do a train where I don't have to rely on the standard train motor. Ideally I wouldn't use the XL Motor, as that looks a bit big to hide in a 6-wide train. I've looked for a thread like this but can't find one. I may have missed it however. Thanks!
  11. Well, I've got a bunch of ideas and other random things, as I am building more often, so rather than make a dedicated thread for every off the cuff thing or proof of concept I turn out, I'm just going to compile it here. The first item is a proof of concept chassis for a Gottwald crane, which I meant to be an AK-912, but there are many different models that have a similar chassis, including the AMK-1000, and the AK-680. It's a WIP, but I have other projects I want to finish first, so I made this, and am currently working on an LDD file. Once that file is finished, this thing will be taken apart, so I can use the pieces for other projects, and once I am ready to give this my all, I will use the LDD file to rebuild it. Gottwald AK-912 chassis. by Saberwing007, on Flickr The model is meant to be like an official set, like 42043, meaning one motor, and no RC. The chassi has a V-12 engine, like the real thing, and 8 wheel drive, with a single middle differential. I found that given how far apart the axles are, a differential is required between the 2 sets of driven axles. The different angle between the steering axles is achieved by a diagonal beam, which is very effective. There is almost no backlash, and the axles are in sync automatically. Also, due to how it works, the axles are set to the correct angle relative to each other automatically, due to how it is built, without any calculations. Another picture of the front unit: Gottwald AK-912 chassis. by Saberwing007, on Flickr In addition, the chassis can be separated into three parts, like the real thing. Seperate by Saberwing007, on Flickr Although the steering on the front and rear units works well, it's connecting the two that has proven problematic. I blame lack of stiffness in the middle reversing linkage, and using friction pins for every steering connection. But, for now, this is finished. I will get back to it later, I don't know how much later, though.
  12. someguy

    How to power 16 L-motors

    How can I power 16 large power function motors? I would NEED them all to be on the same IR reciever. No seperate circuits with seperate IR recievers. Would it be possible to open up an IR receiver and modify the components for the job? Could I even use a standard Lego battery box or would it drain too quickly? Edit: sorry meant 16 XL motors.
  13. Inspired by the classic 300SL. I started by developing a custom framework with 2 l-motors for drive and a narrower chassis with a nimble turning radius. All of the classic features were motorized with the Lego power functions. Gull-Wing Doors: Front end with Benz logo: Frame: Video: Once the whole car was built, it turns out the gearing was incorrect and because of the weight, the vehicle wouldn't drive. So I had to tear down the car to the main frame work and rebuild. Now the gearing is reliable and more support was added to the back end.
  14. Today, I found a video from our good friend Sariel about a new, Lego compatible motor system called RCBRICKS, from a startup of the same name. These motors look quite unlike PF motors, and seem to be based off of high torque hobby servo motors, and as such are quite capable. Watch the video for more information. (It's in Polish, but the subtitles are just fine, and in English.) Here are the Pros and Cons, as far as I can see: Pro: Lots of power Highly responsive Great range Should be relatively inexpensive. Compatible with any kind of RC gear. Con: Not compatible with Lego PF system in any way. RC receivers and transmitters are expensive. Questionable battery choice. Motors are entirely new shapes, and not readily compatible with the system, meaning that they are not drop in replacements Unproven startup. Receivers and batteries are not Lego compatible. I don't know, they sound okay, but the thing is, what most people have problems with is either the power supply, or receivers of the Lego PF system, and not the motors. While I think it is a valiant attempt to rectify the Lego systems short range, I don't think they are going about it the right way. I am also kind of dubious about the idea of using a USB batter pack for this, as it is not really Lego compatible, and has to be awkwardly rubber banded in place. It would be preferable if there were a way to go from RC standard to LPF standard, as having all new motors might alienate people who just want a drop in PF receiver replacement, like SBrick. What do you guys think?
  15. My first Technic pullback racer MOC, an aerodynamic race car with two pull back motors! Lightning fast + extreme torque! Features dual rear wheels for maximum traction and flexible metallic tubing. Upon further testing, Aero Racer was gauged at both a short distance test and a long distance test: traveling 10 feet in .9 seconds, and traveling 25 feet in 2.8 seconds.
  16. Hello everyone I'm new to Eurobricks and I want to build a small competitive RC race car. I'm using a servo motor for steering but I don't know what to use for propulsion. I want either the M motor or the L motor but I don't know which!
  17. Has anyone attempted to measure the power loss from gearing motors up or down? What I'd really like to find is something like Philo's excellent work on motor specifications, batteries, tire traction, and so forth. Ideally it would compare all common pairs of gears (8/8, 16/16, 12/20, 8/24, 8/40, etc.) for at least a couple of motors.
  18. Hi I am looking at doing some MOC's but I first need ot purchase some more IR kits and motors (all sizes) and other parts. Can anyone point me in the direction of good websites to purchase from.
  19. If you follow me on my youtube ( you might have seen my RC crawler project. It used 2 RC motors and was quite fast and well performing. You might have also seen my RC rally car videos, they were fast and nimble. However, I want to combine the best of both worlds in one trial buggy package. So after a lot of trial and error, i was able to incorporate a 2-speed transmission into a crawler with RC motors. The ratios are 15:1 (slow crawler) and 3:1 (fast buggy). It is shifted by a mini linear actuator via an m motor. I'll do some more testing, and as usual this most likely isn't the final version. Pictures: