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Found 2438 results

  1. Hi everyone, This is my P-51 Mustang Racing MOC. It is made out of 401 official LEGO pieces. Blue Bull is 28.7 centimeters long (11.3 inches), its wingspan is 30.7 centimeters (12.1 inches), it weighs 263 grams (9.3 ounces) and its top speed is just over 400 km/h (over 250 mph)! A single pilot can sit in the comfortable cockpit and take control of the plane any time. Although Blue Bull has an aerodynamic design, its mainframe’s strength is not compromised! The model is designed with agility, durability and playability in mind, so in case of an accident, the plane is sturdy enough to withstand any drop from the height of up to 30 centimeters (12 inches), without any part breaking off. The model can be easily and carelessly swooshed by holding any part – main body, nose, wings, tail or even the propeller. Plane’s nose, wings and tail are connected at a slight angle. Sideways and top-down building techniques are implemented to achieve the appropriate design of the nose and tail. Nose has a smooth narrowing shape towards the propeller, while tail also narrows towards the endpoint. Main wings also have a slanted design – rear line of the main wings is angled in two points, contributing to the overall appealing shape and leaving enough room for the front landing gear. Front landing gear can be deployed or retracted, but rear landing gear is fixed. If you like the plane and would like to see more photos, visit my Flickr album. And if you especially like the model, consider supporting it on Ideas, under a title "Blue Bull"!
  2. There are not many fictional spaceships as recognizable as the x-wing. Because of that, most of us had built one at some point of time. After all, it is both iconic and pretty simple: long, thin nose, four wings on hinges, cockpit somewhere in the middle and long guns on wingtips. It was built so many times it is as boring as it is popular, which is why I never attempted doing it. If not BrickVault, with whom I am cooperating on making models with instructions, I would probably never make my own. Eventually though popular demand made it an obvious choice and so I started. What was initially a build stuck somewhere between one TIE or another, took me about four months to complete, which is huge for such a relatively small ship. Let me present you the finished product first. Because we were not entirely sure which color variant is the best, I ended up making three - this way everybody will have one which fits him! So: are X-Wings simple? I just can't emphasize on how wrong was I. There are so many things that need to be done right. Thin wings. Front fuselage which has no parallel surface and has an annoying stripe which interferes with structural work inside. Rear fuselage which is neither rectangular or hexagonal, it is something else. And don't even get me started on the cockpit situation. LEGO part designers made one cockpit which has good front, but bad back, and then the new one has good back, but bad front. Had they merged the designs into one it would be perfect, and without it we can only pick whether we will have abnormally wide nose section, or abnormally square-looking cockpit. Altough there are many great X-Wing designs in the AFOL world, most notably those from Atlas, Cehnot, Inthert, Mike Psiaki and Dmac, among many others, most have their noses either studded, or with jagged edges. So instead of starting with the wings, I started with the front fuselage, as it was the most difficult part. And after all what can be hard with simple wing-opening mechanism? This was the fist sketch. I had no clue how to join this all, and tried all possible cockpit pieces, but I liked the idea of using hinges to make smooth upper sides of the ship. But since my designs modelled in LDD end up being... uh, not too perfect, I had to move to real bricks, and fast. So immediately after a batch of pieces including the cockpit arrived, I made the real version of the nose. ...yeah, so it does not look like the LDD one, because the LDD one was really bad. This one features a lip I was pretty sure was the standard feature of the x-wing, later I discovered that the lipped version is a hangar model, and miniature model has none of it. Also, I noticed the fuselage is already too high so it will have to be lowered later on. Here it has some of the rear fuselage, and first of many variants of nose tip. So far so good. Except it totally did not hold together, so... I also got a hunch that something odd is going on with the proportions at this stage, but "eeh this is a prototype, I will get back to it later". Having front part more or less done, I started doing the wing gearbox: It worked well enough so far, so I could return to the nose area. It was too high, nose top was too long and some of other proportions were wrong. So I fixed it: The X-wing's cockpit front panel does not line up with top surface of the nose, there is a slight angle change. I wanted to have that, but obviously overdid it badly... it looks sort of vulture'ish here too, due to the nose, doesn't it? There. Much better, isn't it? I added cheese slopes on top of 2x2 slopes behind the canopy so I could make the cockpit lower in relation to rear fuselage. I also made a better nose tip. Even the bottom was shaping up quite nicely. By that time, however, issues with wing mechanism became too apparent. It clogged often, was wobbly because each wing was held only on one technic beam, and tended to detach bottom fuselage panels every time when it was opened. Something had to be done, which meant another major rework. Eventually after about two weeks of tinkering, I maged to find a solution which in short space (6 studs) contains an 2x2 gearbox and two attachment points per wings, with added benefit of entire assembly built sideways which greatly helps with wings stability. What the final model uses for wing mechanism is an evolved version of this mechanism. Notice how the control knob is on the bottom of the ship... With wing core situation solved, I could move on to landing gear, which proven to be super simple but effective. Building, however, is not just about the design itself. Sometimes you have to tend for the workplace as well, because I eventually ended up with such a situation: ...so where is that part? In the apartment I was renting back then, I did not really have enough space for building. Or, anything really. ...so I moved. How often do you move to finish a MOC? :D This was just before the departure. Having the workspace situation resolved, I could get back to work. By that time I also got most of the parts I required to finish the ship, so I made all the components or their placeholders, and pondered why it still felt wrong. It took me a while, but this happened to be caused by rear fuselage. You see... I had it like on the left, while it should be more like the one on the right. Easy to fix? Except because the ship has no internal frame, it is held by the outer parts. So any rework in this area was causing issues everywhere else. I figured out a way. Yup, from that moment on, the tile-to-clip connection is main structural connection of the ship. Basically the idea is that front fuselage attaches to rear fuselage by these areas (and similar on the underside), and they all together "wrap around" the wing structure. It holds together surprisingly well, to the point it ended up being the final solution! This was the version tested by BrickVault. In case of some harder models, and X-Wing totally qualifies, we do an additional verification step to ensure all works. The results of the tests were, if I remember correctly: - landing gear collapses - nose top part cannot be attached properly - angled fuselage sides cannot be angled properly - rear fuselage top part randomly pops off not to mention several issues with the instruction itself. ...and what do you mean R2 doesn't fit? Here during debug of the front cover issue. If you work in IT, you know these dreaded words: "hmm it works for me". Yet for brickvault guys, this connection was not possible because the jumper tile was too deep. The issue, as usual, was caused by a part being placed far away, in this case - under the cockpit. Making instructions introduces entire new class of problems. How often do you debug a MOC? Now, remember what I said about the control gear being installed on the bottom? The idea was that an axle would go through the stand, with a nice knob to spin the gearbox to open/close the wings. Unfortunately though, the force required to open up wings is so high, the axle bent and twisted in a way which made operation through the stand impossible. It surprised me, because turning it with fingers is reasonably easy. This issue I did not solve. The only thing I could do was to move control point from the bottom to the top. This triggered YET ANOTHER F**** REWORK, this time of both the underbody top fuselage panels. I lost count here, but it seems the rear part was redone about 5 times totally, with smaller numerous adjustments during the way. The story came to an end after four months of work, several rebuilds, several totally wrong ideas, and a lot of beer drunk. I hope this wall of text is interesting for someone. Thanks for reading and tell me what you think! ------------ This build was done with collaboration with BrickVault. You can watch a video review here: Instructions are available here: https://www.brickvault.toys/collections/all
  3. Lepralego

    MOC: Boulevard des Lumières

    I'm glad to introduce Boulevard des Lumières, my very first big 'Moc'! I started this project in march 2015 and abandoned it a few months later due to professional and family reasons. Then I restarted it again last September and finished it now in January 2020. The idea was to create a building inspired in the Haussmann style present in most of central Paris, without any piece count limit that would keep the modular compatibility and the minifig scale. So this is not a direct replica of any particular one. The street name is also fictional, there is no 'Boulevard des Lumières' in Paris, but its spirit is highly Parisian. Also, I'm adding some extra info and videos in the next days in my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lepralego/. Any suggestions, questions or comments are welcome. Cheers!
  4. So, below is my list for figures and builds if LEGO were to do an advent calendar for LEGO Marvel Superheroes. Builds: Quinjet Spider-Cycle Spider-Mobile Daily Bugle Helicopter Fantasticar Thanos Copter X-Men Jet Avengers Tower Tony Stark's Hot Rod Sky-Cycle Shield Jet Helicopter Spider-Man Drone Minifigures: Spider-Man (Upgraded Suit from Far From Home) Hawkeye (Classic) Doctor Octopus Stan Lee Wolverine (classic blue and yellow with cowl and hair) Human Torch Mr. Frantastic Invisible Woman The Thing (minifigure version) Iron Man (exclusive Christmas colored red and green armor) Captain America (exclusive Christmas colored red and green variation to both his suit and shield, with the star in the middle still being white)
  5. There seems to be a flood of "What should I buy" type topics lately. The problem with these topics is that if everyone made one over ever purchase the forum would become unreadable. Thus to solve this problem this topic has been created to be the new home for all such questions. Do note though that there there's a topic about this already but since a lot of you Technic guys seem to not want to hang out with the System guys I'll make a similar topic here, but please do realise that EB is one site, not a collection of many small ones. I'm making an exception here, not a rule... Ask away!
  6. The war is continuing and the force of corrington and carno is pushing towards Jiangkai. While the other corrish units are together with the carnites, Major Brown is attacking the outer skirts of the town. Altough facing heavy resistance from experienced fighters and normal citizens of the Lotus, the recoats are pushing Meter by Meter towards the inner city. Despite the better technology the redcoats of Major Brown are also very experienced Men which know how to hold the Lotii on range where they are not as good as them. This is the third part of the Collab of @Bregir @Brickwolf and Me. Greetings
  7. BrickChampsCOM

    [MOC] Brick built Smurfs

    [MOC] Will you smurf me? This will be a gift for my wife for our upcomming 1 year wedding anniversary. I had a blast designing this. The parts will arrive next week. I hope she will like it! Polybag competition I have created some more Smurfs as entries for the Polybag Competition at Brickset.com. Each polybag contains one Smurf with associated accessories. All the polybags comply with the rule of "approximately 50 pieces". Collect all the polybags to gather a small Smurf Village! [MOC] Jokey Smurf [MOC] Papa Smurf [MOC] Vanity Smurf [MOC] Baker Smurf [MOC] Sleepy Smurf
  8. Finally finished my latest project, a Sdkfz 251/1 ausf.D in scale 1/10. History of the Sdkfz. 251 After the MK V tank, I wanted to do something different and the 'Hanomag' is just this. The suspension is made with torsion bars and works as it should. The MOC is powered by 2 x XL motors & steering is done with 1 x M motor with a clutch & an Sbrick module. I wanted to integrate the lock-steering system but I simply didn't have the room to get all things integrated, maybe this is something for the future. stickers are being made & maybe there will be a PAK-40 soon behind this, still thinking about it. Dimensions:51cm x 18cm x 20.5cm Weight: 2.5kg Total brick count: about 2.000. Leave a comment if you want. my Flickr page for more pictures on my projects & completed MOC's
  9. The Jersey Brick Guy

    Modular Building Sets - Rumours and Discussion

    Hi all, I figured that instead of hijacking everyone's threads with similar questions about modulars, to just create one thread where people can ask questions and the like. This way we are not junking up specific topics with questions about multiple modulars. I look forward to the discussion with everyone! ------------------------- First question for someone. In the Green Grocer instructions, I am having a hard time telling what color a few pieces are. I may just be colorblind, but I wanted to ask someone who has the set/would know. In step 6 of the Green Grocer, the part call out lists: 2 - 1 x 1 plates; 1 - 1 x 1 tile What color are these? Also, are the tiles also black that surround the white/medium blue tiles on the inside of the shop? Thank you!
  10. Jcreations912

    Fantasy Castle

    Hello everyone! Welcome to my latest LEGO castle MOC! You can find the link to support the project here: Fantasy Castle Please also check out the video I made about the project here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClmoGd7x-7ZTzq7n5pDcQkA?view_as=subscriber Description Recreate endless different fantasy battles and stories with this epic citadel. Adventure and excitement await as you explore the many rooms in the castle, and fight the fearful foes! Will the goblins take the castle? Or will your heroes save the day? It's up to you to decide with the Fantasy Castle! Build This build consists of: The castle A pig and a bird A lookout tower with a catapault 7 minifigures: A cobbled courtyard Knight A moat Wizard A blacksmiths Dwarvern smithy A study Dwarvern warrior A bedroom Centuar A prison (with a hidden escape passage) Goblin A store room Hobgoblin A wizards potion room Hope you like this model! Please take the time to comment and support!
  11. Ford Model T 1908 by Isaac Yaw ( with instructions ) https://youtu.be/26kvGcIkWQw Check out the Video Review here^ Instructions: file:///D:/Ford Model T 1908/ford_t__technic_.pdf Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-11664/Isaacyaw/lego-technic-ford-model-t-1908/#comments
  12. This is my very own Tantive IV Main Corridor with Airlock Doorway MOC built of LEGO bricks: Served as an Alderaanian Diplomatic Cruiser, the CR90 Corvette TANTIVE IV played a central role in the events at the beginning of the Galactic Civil War, serving as Princess Leia Organa's personal starship in the leadup to the Battle of Yavin ... Tantive IV Main Corridor features the iconic round shape design for the walls, including very accurate wall-cubes and the iconic shaped side columns, as well as a smoothly sliding Airlock Doorway, that reveals an indicated Imperial Hallway behind to recreate the Borading Assault by using a pretty clever technique. The Hinge-mechanism allows you to get better access to the Corridor, and serves as a switch, so you can either close the Corridor, or open it which makes it easier to take shots of scenes with minifigures and reenact moments from Star Wars: A New Hope or Star Wars: Revenge of the Sith. The entire build is extremly sturdy which allows you to grab the whole build without falling apart, and every detail is securely locked in place. You can follow me on flickr or take a look at more Star Wars MOCs of mine: https://www.flickr.com/photos/the-creatorr/ What do you guys think?
  13. Brick-Wombat

    [MOC] Harrower Class Dreadnought

    I don't have any experience with the games, but I saw a picture of the Harrower and was inspired. Aesthetically, I love the aggressive shape of the ship. The engine design is quite different from typical ISD style designs and I really like how the ship is absolutely covered with quad laser and quad turbo emplacements. Strategically speaking, this ship makes a lot more sense than "newer" Republic or Imperial style destroyer designs. A few retro improvements (in my opinion at least): - Command bridge is less exposed compared to Acclamator, Venator, Imperator - Engines are recessed and less exposed compared to Acclamator and Venator -Quad laser turrets are placed on the top and bottom sides of the hull which provides better coverage than if placed in the trenches. -The front and side hangar entrances are recessed which would give ingress and egress of fighters more protection Time will tell if I make this IRL. Either way, it was a fun little build. More views in the spoiler. Reference Image:
  14. Ravelino

    The Big Mystery WIP

    Tall Black Tower WIP by Jip Kempers, on Flickr So yesterday I started uploading my latest WIP Project to its own Flickr Album I decided to upload every day or two depending how fast it progresses to get some feedback and tips while I build instead of having to alter a thousand things in the end. Which’ll probably still occur lol! I also decided to make a little guessing game of what it will be and to spice it up a bit I upped the ante by asking what the full title of the finalized project will be. (I have it in my head since brick one) Winner will get a nice memento once the project is finished, and the rules are in the descriptions of today’s upload and if you don’t have a Flickr account you can send me a pm here or on the LowLug forum. C&c welcome, wanted, needed!
  15. After about 5 months of work (off and on), I've finally finished my modified C.K. Holliday train (Lego 71044). During high school and college in the 90s, I was a conductor on the DLRR, so this set hits close to home and is something I've wanted for a long, long time. It also means I was keenly aware of where the stock model wasn't quite accurate. This was my first time modifying a Lego set, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.The engine was pretty heavily reworked, and I made some changes to the parlor car as well. Approximate mod list includes: Changed boiler jacket to dark blue, inspired by @TJJohn12. Lengthened the engine by two studs. Increased engine width at pistons to 9 studs. Reworked the pilot to use a double-pin system similar to the Constitution. Reworked pistons inspired by @Carefree_Dude. Drive rods by @zephyr1934. Redesigned cab interior. Parlor car extended by 4 studs, additional chair inside. Replaced stock wheels with ball bearings and rods. Custom stickers by OKBrickWorks What do y'all think?
  16. 1925 Bugatti Type35-C MOC by Isaac Yaw Link to my youtube video: Description: Here are a few pictures of the newest MOC that I have made in about 2 months' time. I decided to turn back in time and bring back more antique builds from the past. One of my previous antique builds was the 1908 Ford Model T which is also posted on my Youtube channel. This newest build brings us back to one of the iconic Bugatti cars ever made, the Bugatti Type35-C. Features: -1:8 scale build -straight 8 engine -working steering system -every detail carefully replicated from the original car such as headlights, steering system, engine, exhaust, body shape, and etc.
  17. My brother and I ( @soccerkid6 ) have been writing quite a few tutorials on techniques we often use in our medieval creations. We will be using this topic to share these designs with all of you, and will keep an index of our tutorials in this first post while also posting new replies as we add new tutorials. Index of tutorials: Curved Thatch Roof Tutorial Corner Thatched Roof Tutorial Technic Rockwork Tutorial Stone Wall Tutorial Tilted Plate Landscape Tutorial Simple Angled Wall Tutorial 8x8 Octagonal Tower Tutorial Irregular Base Tutorial Shingle Roof Tutorial SNOT Stone Wall Tutorial Half-Stud Offset Wooden Wall Tutorial. Basic Arrow Slits Tutorial Turntable Stained Glass Window Tutorial Stone Cottage Wall Tutorial Medieval Hand Cart Tutorial Furniture Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #2 Round Well Tutorial Wagons and Carts Tutorial Snow Tutorial Four Sided Castle Roof Tutorial Simple SNOT and Studs-Up Rockwork Tutorial Wagons and Carts Tutorial #2 Furniture Tutorial #3 Furniture Tutorial #4 Simple Roof Gables Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #5 Middle Eastern Tutorial #1 Furniture Tutorial #6 Tree Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #7 Furniture Tutorial #8 Slanted Rockwork Tutorial 45° Skyrim Roof Tutorial Curving Staircase Tutorial Mixel Joint Tree Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #9 Doors and Gates Tutorial Large Onion Dome Tutorial Mottled Stone Wall Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #10 Flying Carpet Tutorial Stone Bridge Pier Tutorial Turret Roof Tutorial Elegant Fountain Tutorial Hexagon Tower Tutorial Hinge Brick Well Tutorial Semicircle Tower Design Stone Footbridge Tutorial 4x4 Dish Dome Tutorial Podium with Mosaic Tutorial Small Carts Tutorial Stepping SNOT Wall Tutorial Al-Danah Tower Design Small Onion Dome Tutorial Stone and Timber Wall Design Market Stalls Tutorial SNOT Panel Water Tutorial Doors Tutorial #2 Middle Eastern Tutorial #2 Furniture Tutorial #11 Winter Tower Roof Design SNOT Tudor Design 6x6 Octagonal Tower Tutorial Monastery Window and Roof Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #12 Large Round Tower Tutorial Bar and Clip Brickwork Tutorial Window Tutorial Free Floating Cobblestone Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #13 4x4 Roof Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #14 Dormer Roofs Tutorial Footbridge Tutorial #2 SNOT Water Tutorial SNOT Rockwork Base Tutorial Photography and Editing Process Headlight Brick Cobblestone Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #15 Wagons and Carts Tutorial #3 6x6 Elven Roof Tutorial Irregular SNOT Base Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #16 How to Angle Buildings Round Tile Cobblestone Tutorial Wagons and Carts Tutorial #4 Furniture Tutorial #17 We have many more tutorials already done that we will be posting here soon, but here are a few for starters. We hope you find this thread to be a useful resource for all your medieval creations.
  18. Hi all, these days I'm working a lot with Lego Technic, since I've bought some parts to experiment a bit this new world. I'm used to build old Lego Technic from the 80's and 90's...but these new sets are very very complex, and require a lot of time to figure out where and how to put a certain part. So , back to the Stud.io I started designing again...and came out with this thing: It's similar to old steam trams, to the GE 2/2 and HGE 2/2 locomotives, to some service railway cars...to the alternate 7720 model. Oh, well...it's a box and it's similar to all those boxy things! Dimensions are 13/14 stu...holes, units? for width and 25 for body lenght. Both buffers add an additional 6 studs to overall lenght. I'd say it is a small 1:22,5 locomotive, like my old yellow shunter with PuP. Since I'm still not so much able to recreate details such as doors and ladders...I simply avoided them. Pantograph is designed to use a rubber band for the moment - it could be nice to make it foldable with some gears! At least the body is self-consistent and can easily be removed. The battery is fixed on the central upper part of the body, right in the middle to increase weight on all 4 traction wheels. Rods are somewhat triangular and quite strange, but they're strong! Other kinds of rod arrangements can be done. Using a normal gear transmission could also avoid rods at all. The boxy body gives me the internal space to experiment for transmissions and motors. This chassis probably will change a zillion of times like the one of my XXL locomotives. In the picture above, you can see the possibility to have the double gauge solution (left axle is L-Gauge and right axle is configured for 45mm G-Gauge track). The gear you can see in the middle of left axle shows the possibility to implement a cog railway system using Lego flexible track. I sincerely do not know if the 45mm cog tracks could work with a Lego gear - so let's limit the cog solution to original Lego track It can become also a fancy Tram locomotive, like the "Gamba De Legn" ("Wooden Leg") used in Milan for many, many years. But for this one - I'm still struggling to create a proper, working engine. I've seen few full Technic locomotives, but it's really fun to build them! I hope you like it!!! Ciao, Davide
  19. With the announcement of Mafia Definitive edition from 2k Games, I got excited and created the iconic characters from the original Mafia game and share with you guys: Lego Mafia Definitive Edition by the Artizan, on Flickr
  20. Here is a project that I have been maturing for 4 years and which finally takes shape from this year, inspired by a french comic strip from Arthur De Pins.. Throughout this topic, you can follow the progress of the project and the WIP. This first post will bring together only the completed games and winks to the universe. For those who do not know Zombillenium, visit Dupuis, the editor of Arthur de Pins (link in french): https://www.dupuis.com/seriebd/zombillenium/3204 Park map: 1. Gretchen and his Mini Cooper S : 2. Carousel with skulls : Great inspiration from those found in the comic strip park, but which I found a bit repetitive, especially this one. 3. "At work !" : Zombillenium - "At work !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr 4. "Cheeeeers..." Zombillenium - "Cheeers... Creepy family photo !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr The family photo, with from left to right: - Sirius Jefferson the skeleton - Aton Noudjemet the mummy - A demon worker like Aurelien Zahner - Francis Von Bloodt the vampire and director of the park - Blaise Canilhac the werewolf and director of human resources - Gretchen Webb the witch 5. Candy shop : Zombillénium - Main Street, Candy shop by Stephle59, sur Flickr To be continued...
  21. Discussions regarding the rumoured Stranger Things D2C goes here. * No fighting. Respect each others opinion. * Keep the wishlisting on a low. *Have fun! What we know so far; * Set # is 75810 * 2287 parts * CONF_ST_2019 * Releases in June, May 15 for VIP's * Midnight reveal May 15th Important URL's: https://www.stonewars.de/news/lego-stranger-things-75810-joyce-byers-haus/ https://kockashop.hu/lego/conf_st_2019-75810
  22. Hello there! American all-wheel drive pickup from GMC. The model is built as a continuation of the Chevy K30 Big Dooley published in 2019. Of the main differences - the muzzle of an earlier generation, a shorter base, the design of the frame and bridges was changed. Planetary hubs and CV joints are used in driveshafts from 42099. Drive - for each axle by L motor. Steering - M motor, Power - BuWizz, a canister with gasoline in the back, spare wheel, shovel and a box of lemonade More photos
  23. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  24. Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Attika77/ultimate-pickup In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.