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Found 9 results

  1. MusicaRibelle

    Powered Up Hub not working at all

    Hello everybody, After thinking about it for a couple of months, I've decided to invest in the new PoweredUp tech and bought Hub and L-motor for my Crocodile locomotive.< So far the process of using the new tech has been.. terrible. The hub, when turned on, shows a blinking pink light (firmware update needed). The app finds the hub (from the app, I choose the Croc, shows the interface to run the train, and the BLE icon shows a few colors) - I suppose it starts the download of the firmware: it shows full screen a picture of the Hub with a big 0% - I suppose that it is meant to show progress and go to 100%.. except it doesn't. It stays at 0% for a few seconds, then it shows a list of connected hubs. The list has only one element "Lego bootloader", the app is frozen, the hub is "off", meaning it shows no light, and pressing its green button does nothing. The only way out is to restart the app, restart the hub (open and close the lid, disconnecting power). Nothing changed after repeated attempts, I tried on two different smartphones, one Android, one Apple, in case it was a phone problem - it isn't. I don't know what to do. Calling Lego is an option, but their traffic volume is high, I am not expected to speak to any human for hours... Any useful suggestion?
  2. Problem: Powered Up hub Bluetooth disconnects shortly after running a custom program in the Powered Up app Details: I have the Crocodile locomotive that runs perfectly when I'm using the Lego Crocodile program. It will run without the Bluetooth disconnecting. Recently I made a small custom program in the Powered Up app and noticed that the Bluetooth was disconnecting frequently. I've tried a lot of different combinations to see if I could isolate the fault of the problem. 1. (Android device) Ran the Crocodile locomotive using the Lego Crocodile program and timed how long it would run before Bluetooth disconnected - Ran until I stopped it. 2. (Android device) Ran Croc using custom program and timed how long it took for Bluetooth to disconnect - Disconnects in about 30 seconds. 3. (iOS) Ran the custom program with my iPad and Bluetooth stayed connected longer, but still disconnected after about 2 minutes. 4. Got a reply from Lego Tech Support - Mostly checking settings, etc. (I checked settings and didn't find anything I needed to change). 5. Did some more testing - Verified with Android and iOS that the Lego crocodile program will run without Bluetooth disconnecting. Works perfectly (Ran the train for >5 minutes) 6. I tried putting iOS and Android device in different locations to see if that would make a difference; it didn't. I am <5 meters away from the hub. 7. My Android is up to date and so is the Powered Up app. I've probably tried some other things that I forgot to list. I've searched for others with the similar problem but I haven't found anything that matched. Any guidance on why the Bluetooth works fine when using the Lego crocodile program, but when using a simple custom one, it loses connection within minutes? I am planning to run a multi train set up with programmed stops, etc. Thank you in advance for any replies!
  3. Hello everyone, I ventured a bit into lately and wanted to have Technic planetary wheel hub 46490c01 from set 42099 so after some investigation and suggestions from facebook and instagram I managed to create three separate parts with all connections between them and "the outer world" as well. Feel free to check it out in my bricksafe folder. I suggest putting all three parts together and group them. The hub and the socket can be rotated independently. I hope you find it useful and would appreciate your opinions, especially if you do find any mistakes in geometry or connections. All credits for creating *.dat files for the parts for LDraw go to @Philo - thank you very much. Best regards, Miha
  4. Hello to all, It's been a long time since I was in the forum, therefore I do not know ( I did a research but couldn't find one) if a similar topic was opened before. Since the powerbanks have started to be able to give 9V outputs 2 amperes, Even 12V 1,5 amperes with a rated capacity of 12.000 mAh and a total capacity of 20.000 mAh or more, I started to think about using powerbanks instead of 1,5V*6 AA or AAA type batteries in powered and/or lit-up sets. These batteries clearly create a battery pollution after losing their full power or all of their power, thus needed to be replaced. This means money, toxic waste, corrosion of the hubs, unplayable/unusable sets. Corroded batteries create health problems, performance problems, usage problems. (i.e. Haunted House Set with "Powered Up". If the AAA batteries lose power, then the lift in the set immediately start to have problems. First of all, I believe the set's lift system using "Powered Up", has clear faults. Because the motor used to operate the lift is timed and its speed is also cleverly calculated. The lift's wheel system has problems. Many times, it is stuck, doesn't reset properly or because of the wheels slowing down the lift when falling do not act properly when the lift is going up, I tried taking off the side walls of lift, touching the wheels. This made the lift work properly but alas, when it did the panic fall, the wheels did not slow the lift down, so it had a "free-fall". Furthermore, if the batteries lose power, then the lift can not operate properly.) From what I see, at least in Turkey, LEGO is working with VARTA. VARTA has very durable and powerful powerbanks reaching up to 18.200 - 20.000 mAh. Yes, it is large but the technology is improving more and more. The price of the powerbanks? Well, even the VARTA ones are less expensive than the battery hubs sold by LEGO. The outputs can be various (USB-C, USB, micro-USB etc.) and they can simply be adapted to LEGO motors with some modifications. And after a 5-6 hour recharge after full depletion, voila! No waste, no power loss, no unnecessary battery buying/storage and thousands of reacharges only with a smart USB adapter. So? Why not? The powerbanks do not lose their full power at all until they are totally depleted. Because I am not an expert in battery hubs vs. powerbanks in means of generating power to the motors, kindly please warn me if I am talking nonsense. Best of health and Regards, Idris
  5. Modern LEGO wheel hubs are known to suffer from a lot of slack. Other drawbacks are that you can only use them with CVT joints - not with the stronger and more angleable U-joints - and the section inbetween the pin holes of the hub is wider than 1 stud. While playing with one of them I noticed that part of the slack is because the DBG pins don't sit very tight in the wheel's pin holes. It helps a little if you have an axle running through the wheel which extends into the DBG-part of the hub. Now I know @nicjasno sells modified wheel hubs based on small turn tables, which have much less slack than the original wheel hubs. But than you still can only use them with the weak CVT joints. And you have a modified part. So I looked into using a turntable as wheel hub for the 15038 wheel (with 6 pinholes) without modifying it and it gives quite a good result. Better than the LEGO wheel hub: The turn table is attached to the wheel with 2 3L pins. The assembly inside the wheel makes sure the turn table's pinholes are attached to a pin and not to an axle (which would give slack) and sits tight against the inside of the wheel to give stability. Finally an extra belt wheel is attached to the wheel to give even more stability to the 2 3L pins that connect the assembly to the wheel.
  6. I was wondering if these parts: Could connect with this part: I want to know if we can use these wheel hubs for smaller wheels that don't have those 3-pin connections, such as these:
  7. Spook Central! The scary headquarters for this Monster Fighter extravaganza! Avatar Contest R&D Entry Thread Scary Monsters R&D Entry Thread Voting Ghoul Busters R&D Entry Thread Voting Creature's Lair R&D Entry Thread Voting Monster Bash R&D Entry Thread Voting
  8. With the hubless wheel post in the back of my mind and some 56x28 ZR Street tires on my table next to some old-style track links, something clicked in my head. 22 of the track links fit perfectly in the 56x28 tires. More interestingly, if you put 4L tiles or plates on alternating links, they also fit the inside of the Unimog tire. Of course you'll need more than 22 - probably between 40 and 50 - to fill the Unimog tire. The tracks can be driven by spur gears, so you could make a planetary reduction hub which could also be a portal hub. I don't plan to make any large trucks any time soon, but figured I'd post this in case it's useful to those who build trial trucks and other large vehicles.