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Found 7 results

  1. Hello everybody, I'd like to recolor some Bionicle pieces to make some 2003 style Matorans (Kongu, Tamaru, Onepu, Damek). However, because there are socket balls articulations involved, I thought it might be better to dye the parts instead of painting them. I've seen some videos about dyeing LEGO using Rit dye (this video was most helpful). I was wondering, though, if anybody ever made a guide on how to obtain results as close to the actual LEGO colors as possible (brands, ratio dye/water, timing etc). I'm mostly interested in Teal, Purple (the old one, prior to 2004) and Lime, but I think any information would be interesting for the community. Thanks!
  2. I'm a big fan of the classic Blacktron II color scheme (back, white, trans neon-green). I have spent sometimes to customize some Starwars Sets (X-Wing, Y-Wing, A-Wing, B-Wing, Z-95 Head Hunter, Tie Fighter, Tie Interceptor) with this color scheme. The hardest thing for me is to find the appropriate trans neon-green windscreen for each set. Since Lego does not produce some windscreen in this color (for example Windscreen 7 x 4 x 2 Round with Handle 92279), I need to produce them by myself by painting on trans-clear parts. I have tried many techniques, acrylic/enamel paining with model paint (very easy to find or to obtain the neon-green tint) but it tends to obfuscate the windscreen. The real hard part is to keep the windscreen transparent. I've read on some forum that some folks successfully get the color using permanent marker on trans-clear parts. It does work indeed. I tried a neon yellow Sharpie marker on a sample canopy. The problem is it is very hard to get a regular paint on your part and the color is not that bright. I was thinking then about Highlighter like Stabilo. Their Yellow ink get me almost the right tint but the ink itself is easily removed from the polycarbonate surface of trans Lego pieces. I then need some lacquer/vanish/coat to keep the ink on the pice. I tried acrylic/enamel lacquers again but the ink creates a chemical precipitate as soon as you mix it with the varnish. The only lacquer that can be mixed with Stabilo ink is StarWax Floor Bright Renovator (not sure it's available outside of France though). It's a product to renovate your vinyl floor. The product will create a thin layer of plastic on your floor while drying. This is the perfect fixer for Stabilo Ink. Any ninyl floor bright renovator should work I think. After a successful experiment with some sample, I just order 20 Stabilo Yellow Ink Refill on Amazon ( and then mix them with the renovator. To apply the color, just dying the windscreen inside the solution for a few second, take it out and let it dry. Since the liquid is very fluid and takes 4h to dry, you should be super careful not to let it dripping otherwise you'll end up having a flat surface with ugly dripping effect. Depending on the shape of your windscreen, you should tilt it around while the solution is drying to have a regular application on all the surface. It tooks me 5 mins tilting around before the renovator starts to dry. If you want to accelerate the proces, do it on a sunny and hot day to that it dries quicker I attach some pictures links of the solution and some results. Please notice that the color is not exactly the same as the original trans neon-green but it's very close. For a home-made dying, it's satisfactory. Starwax : Stabilo Ink Refill: Preparation: Solution Jar: Result: A-Wing with trans neon-green Windscreen 7 x 4 x 2 Round with Handle: Preview:
  3. im so sick of red and black -.- i want, i dont, dark green, white, rusty red, someone of you will say "there are parts with those colors!" but ill answer: no! there arent enough coloured parts compared to red and black ones :\ so has anyone of you tried to spray some parts? what kind of colors did you use? is it something acceptable by the lego purists?
  4. The gold pieces of my Bionicle sets from 2003-2005 in time "tarnish" and I don't know what to do to stop or revert the process. I tried bicarbonate, lemon juice, ammonia, peroxide, soap, salt, leaving a piece in the sun for a couple of hours, casting it in boiling water, putting it in a peroxide glass and leaving it in the sun. No results at all. I was considering painting my Avohkii, but I don't know how to achieve the perfect color. Do you know what paint/dye I might use? I want the piece to match the original 2003 gold from LEGO. Thank you :)
  5. agoodfella77

    Dyeing Basics...?

    Are there any useful guides / guidelines regarding dyeing LEGO parts? In particular Minifigure parts? Any products to avoid? Any methods better than others? Thanks!
  6. While looking over the parts list that would be required to build my Space Police I T.A.R.D.I.S., I realized that, although most of the parts exist/ed in the colors I used, there were two that do not. http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=60601 - Glass for Window 1x2x2 Flat Gront, I need 8 of them in Trans-Red. http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=43888 - Support 1 x 1 x 6 Solid Pillar, I need 3 of them in Blue. I was wondering if anyone could perhaps tell me what the best paint/dye for each of them would be, and what would be the best color to buy the parts that will be dyed in*? I want the window to stay transparent, even after having been painted/dyed. Reference Image: Thanks in advance! *I imagine that the best color for the window would probably be Trans-Clear and the Pillar White?
  7. I'm looking to make a custom of Amaterasu from Ōkami, so I looked on bricklink for the part I need (pic below, if my tablet doesn't glitch up), but they don't make it in white, so I'm wondering, does vinyl dye work to lighten pieces? And do you need to use 2 coats to dye them bright white? The aformentioned piece.