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Showing results for tags 'custom parts'.
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Custom Dark Blue Train Windows for OE and Other MOCs
SerperiorBricks posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
I've custom ordered a batch of Dark Blue 1x2x3 Train Windows for us Train Folk. Trying something out with getting parts custom ordered in useful colors (that LEGO won't make for us). I've got 500 in this initial batch, for sale from my store, SerperiorBricks.space Some pictures of the physical parts. Unfortunately around the same amount of scuffs/scratches as we get out of LEGO these days, so they're not perfect. But they fit the standard glass and LEGO bricks just fine. Color is pretty much spot on as well. I've got them for sale as low as $.50/pc, but those prices may be able to reduce in future batches depending on demand. 1 2 3 4 I've got a batch of Tan windows on the way as well, hopefully they should arrive in by the end of the month. -
Eagle V2 an RC Trophy Truck [MOC]
Daniel-99 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello, EuroBrickers! I am pleased to present to you the second version of my RC Lego Trophy Truck EAGLE. To be more specific, this is the third deep modification of the second chassis. Not surprising, as I've been working on this project for over three months now. For a better understanding of this topic it is worth reading about the first version. A better quality photos could be found on my BrickSafe. And a video: First looks: Features Independed suspension at the front with positive caster angle. 4-link solid axle suspension at the rear with anti-roll bar RC shocks (80 mm at the front and 110 mm at the rear) Brushless motor A2212 1200 kv for propulsion, Geek Servo for steering, 1500 mAh 3S Li-Po for power Strong and efficient transmission with metal U-joints and metal bearings. 95 mm RC wheels Light-weight bodywork Main goals "It's never a good idea to stop if you have something to improve." With these thoughts I was preparing a post about my Eagle a month ago. Here's a list of things I wanted to improve: Weight distribution: the heavy electronic components located in the cab loaded the front suspension more than the rear suspension. Rear axle geometry: due to triangulation on the rear axle, the driveshaft and lower suspension arms were located very high off the bottom of the truck, which limited the maximum compression angle of the rear suspension, and the entire chassis was not set to the horizon. Rear suspension setup: a true trophy truck requires a suspension with progressive stiffness. Front axle: steering was very sensitive, rather unusual front triangle shape and tilted lower suspension arms. Overall bulkiness of the chassis. Electronics The Eagle V2 utilizes the same electronic components as the Eagle V1. The story of my choice of such components is given in the post about Eagle V1. Therefore, I will be brief here. Motor: A2212 1200 kv Battery: 3S Li-Po 65C (30C is more than enough) 1500 mAh Controller: 2-3S 35A Transmitter: FlySky FS-GT5 Pros: Brushless motors last longer than brushed motors. High speed and torque in a compact size (about 3 BM in an XL motor) Radio control (best for fast RC cars) Cheap components (compared to Lego electronic components) available at local RC stores. External Li-Po battery allows for different layouts and unlimited power flow. Cons: Requires advanced techniques to build strong transmissions (requires lubrication) Otherwise can easily damage plastic parts. Not an easy decision for purists. Difficult to share instructions with others. Have to take care of tangling wires (same goes for large Lego-is designs). Non-universal solution, suitable mainly for RC Lego machines without a list of additional features. Frame & layout The Eagle V2 has a new "tube frame" (or chassis). This is why I decided not to call it a modification of my Eagle. Let's take a look at it from front to back. All important terms in this section are marked with bold text. In addition, this terms are highlighted on pictures. The front triangle uses the same "almost right" triangle with 14,15 and 6 stud lengths as the Eagle V1. The lower tube of the front triangle is made of two flip-flop beams that have been stacked together. This solution provides a sufficient level of stiffness and resistance to torsion. In addition, I was able to bring the suspension arm mounting points as close to the center as possible. The lower tube of the front triangle is adjacent to the flat bottom made of panels. The upper tubes of the front triangle intersect with the front wall. Further they pass into the side tubes of the cockpit. These tubes are made with flip-flop beams, which allowed me to secure them in place with a 15L front cross-brace (the Eagle V1 cockpit was 2 studs thinner). It's worth noting that the GeekServo motor squeezed perfectly between the lower front triangle tube and the cross-brace of the front wall. Thus, it practically reinforces the front triangle. The cockpit ends at the rear wall, which is reinforced by a rear triangle and structure around the transfer case housing. The side tubes pass into the rear H-tubes (horizontal). At the same time, the rectangular rear triangle is mirrored to form another rectangular triangle at the very back of the truck. The cross-brace on the rear wall is made using L-beams and 3D printed motor housing. Now let me describe the layout of the electronic components. Using a custom transfer case housing, I was able to move the brushless motor out of the cab. It is now located directly behind the rear wall. More importantly, I was able to move the Li-Po battery out of the cab. It is now located above the motor. It is true that this solution increases the center of gravity, but on the other hand it provides excellent weight distribution, which is very important for a trophy truck. The controller is located in the cab next to the driver's seat. Both battery and controller have no pin-holes, but I was able to fix them in place quite greatly. To load the rear axle even further, I added the spare wheel. Bodywork My main goals with bodywork of Eagle V2 were the following: keep it light keep the original shapes of Eagle V1 improve the proportions As a result I made the whole truck one stud longer and two studs wider than the first version. Now cockpit is wide enough to fit the driver`s seat. Also I changed the bonnet and the front grill. Finally I changed the very back of the truck to make it closer to real prototypes. I have to add, that not only the bodywork make the car look good. More importantly to keep the proportions in the chassis. The authentic look of the Eagle V2 is achieved with the proper settings of the suspension. Transmission I'd like to make a 3D model of my truck and show you a nice rendering of the drivetrain, like some great technical builders do. However, the Eagle V2 has a lot of custom parts and a bunch of "illegal" techniques like "almost rectangular" triangles. So I will just mark out the transmission components: Brushless motor with custom housing with planetary gear inside (1:4 gear ratio) Central transfer case with 28:20 gear ratio Rear differential with 12:28 gear ratio The transmission is built on carbon fiber axles and metal U-joints. It is separated from the frame by metal bearings. Metal bearings are used in the center transfer case, in the 5x7 frame that holds the differential, and in all the wheel hubs. I also lubed the planetary gear inside the engine case. Suspension geometry As I've said before, trophy trucks are all about suspension. So the main reason I did a V2 of my Eagle is to try and improve the suspension (both front and rear). Front suspension: Truth be told, not all custom parts turn out to be universal. On the contrary, the idea of efficiency in certain places and the idea of universality are not compatible at all. The Eagle V1 front wheel hubs are a prime example of this principle. They were originally designed for IFS street cars with smaller wheels. Therefore the basic ideas are present in their geometry: An inverted ball joint for the lower suspension arm (which is great in general). Combined with the tilted front suspension, they looked nothing like real trucks. The steering arms were 0.5 studs long, which resulted in very sensitive steering. I also didn't really like the 8 stud length suspension arms, which required custom of steering links to work properly. So I designed a new front suspension system that includes: 9 stud length suspension arms. New hubs (originally designed for live-axles) with 1 stud length steering arms. Thus hub does not use the ball joints! The new design is a deep modification of the Falcon trophy truck front suspension, which has proven to be reliable. In the V1, I used 8-studs suspension arms to fit within a certain chassis width and maintain a strong lower tube of the front triangle. However, by using stacked flip-flop beams, I was able to keep it 1 stud wide without losing stiffness. Rear suspension: It won't surprise you that the Eagle V2 has a new rear suspension. Here's a list of the changes: A new rear axle has been designed (again with a different set of custom hubs). It's more compact than the one the V1 had. The upper triangle of the suspension arms has been inverted (to match the real-world examples). New lower arms have been build. Now the live-axle was given the necessary degree of freedom. The attachment points for the suspension arms were lowered by two studs. This modification was possible due to the changes in the drivetrain described above. The anti-roll bar has been redesigned to match real prototypes. It resists to the twisting effect of the rear axle that appear in the acceleration. Shocks "Once a perfect suspension geometry is achieved, one may look for a proper set of shocks springs" The best springs Lego ever made are the hard 9.5 L springs, because they have a good amount of travel and responsiveness. For example, the 9.5 L soft shocks are not as good because the spring force has a hard time overcoming internal friction. On contrary, the 7L hard shocks have little travel and not enough stiffness to work properly with the hard springs. So I used 9.5L hard springs in the Eagle V1 and early versions of the second chassis. I tried to build a progressive rear suspension using Lego springs, but was not successful. The resulting design was either too unreliable or too bulky. I guess I lacked luck and skill, but I couldn't build a suspension that was both soft and shock resistant. It was either too stiff to absorb big bumps or too soft. So I decided to use RC shock absorbers to properly address this issue. RC shock absorbers have different springs that allow you to adjust SAG and progression without having to move the shock absorber mounting point along the suspension arm. I once tried to adapt RC shock absorbers to Lego, but couldn't find a suitable way to attach them to the Lego pins. Fortunately, a working solution was offered by Ryokeen in his Generic Brushless Trophy Truck. I again had to modify the chassis to fit 1:10 scale RC shock absorbers. Front suspension has 80 mm shocks with 2.5 studs travel. I mounted it behind the suspension arms as it is done it real Trophy Trucks and many RC scale models. There was a way to place it through the upper A-arm, but such solution required 4L liftarms. In addition it had not freedom in the choice of mounting points. Rear suspension uses 110 mm shocks with approximately 3 studs of travel. Additionally they have a dual spring setup, which give the desirable progressive hardness to the rear suspension. Again, I tried to mount rear shocks in the same way it is done in real Trophy Trucks. Developers diary. 3-7 Sep An Eagle V1 was finished. The driving tests started. Front wheel hubs are the same as in Hornet 4x4 Buggy. 11-15 Sep The new front triangle has been built. Now truck has a tilted lower tube and positive caster. The differential has been changed from yellow to red one. 17 Oct I stated developing a new chassis with a different set of ideas behind. (mostly with the triangulation in the rear axle removed and central transfer case added). 24 Oct First prototype of the new chassis has been built. In addition to the redesigned rear axle, I made a new front axle with a shock coming through the upper A-pillar. 27 Oct I started building a bodywork for a new chassis. 1 Nov The first modification of the second version of Eagle has been finished. I started the driving tests. The rear suspension has a new idea if mixing anti-roll bar with additional shocks to achieve progressive suspension hardness.... that was a total madness... 8 Nov The whole chassis has been widened by 2 studs for better proportions. 14 Nov A new rear suspension ideas has been applied. The back of the Truck has been changed. Now the rear suspension has two sets of hard 9.5L springs on each side. Progressive stiffness... Bulky realisation. 25-28 Nov RC shocks has been added. For that reason both front and triangles has been redesigned. -
Took this time some inspiration from @johndrinkin and his art deco/retrofuturistic trains and some existing trains with smooth "bathtub" cowl appearance. Here few versions of it with a slight forward and backward cowl and with standard parts and customs wheels that suits better With custom wheels that are slightly bigger XLL https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=440333 With standard partlist https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=439655 Due too similarity of them here some other photos and angels Hoses job (it was painful and full of struggle but I`ve made it! ) Size comparison between desighn with custom wheels and sandart(sorter) Been working on this for way too much time but got a few new ideas and some of them use as improvements for PRR GG1 family Maybe will try to make a "tank version" based on some German/Dutchland streamlined train (if not fall fully insane)
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Wilde Beast 4x4 Pickup [MOC]
Daniel-99 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello everyone! I am glad to introduce you my new Lego MOC. It is called "Wilde Beast" and it is a 1:10 scale 4-wheel drive pickup truck. Technical characteristics 1:10 scale, 1.630 kg of total weight All wheel drive with 4 x Buwizz motors powering each wheel separately 2 x Geek servo for steering 3S Li-Po for power RC radio + Wixy units for control Full independent suspension with customizable hardness Custom wheel hubs with metal bearings RC wheels 90 mm (12 mm hexes) Metal U-joints in the transmission Robust 3D-printed steering bones Positive caster angle on all wheels Back to the beginning The main Idea behind the build was inspired by real e-cars. This cars has no gearbox, and each wheel gets connected to an e-motor independently. I tried to replicate this principle with Lego bricks and some custom parts. Bodywork This car has is a 1:10 scale pick-up truck body, Though it is a bit too short for a normal pickup. The body was made to be light and it is build on the chassis with a half-stud off-set in order to make the wheels seating symmetrically in wheel arches. (It was an obligatory decision due to the positive caster angle). There are many things that can be improved in the bodywork, but the current one perfectly satisfy my needs: it is light but make the car somewhat recognizable as a car. Hope to find white fenders to the front wheels some time! All the driving elements are located in the lower 5 studs of the car, so it is very stable. Suspension Wilde Beast has a full independent suspension with positive caster, which is very unusual for pickups. Moreover it was made to be customizable for different purposes. 9L shocks connected to the lower bones of the suspension play main role. At the same time upper bones of the suspension has their own set of shocks which can be customizable! Custom wheel hubs provide a natural King-Pin Inclination. Transmission "A good transmission - is no transmission"... This was my main philosophy for this car. The car has 4x Buwizz motors for propulsion, each motor is connected to one wheel of the car via half-axle (which uses metal U-joints). "Gear Ratio": Slow output of Buwizz motor -> 95 mm wheel. Such solution has its own positive and negative aspects. Positive: extremely low friction stiffness fast cornering (e-differentials) High maximal speed (over 13 km/h) Negative: Too big stress on motors (a smaller wheels would work well) Car does not go straight due to the difference in motors Let me explain the last "problem" in more details. The motors used in the car are "the" same from the view-point of a lego builder. Though they are "different" from the physical view point: each motor has individual characteristics, such as resistance, max power, max rotation speed and so on... This difference can not be seen in slow models (with max speed under 7 km/h) but they became critical at speeds over 10 km/h. As the result, car is always turning to one side and the driver need to correct the trajectory with a steering. There are only two ways to fix this problem: either to make a mechanical balancing via differentials, or to test each motor separately, and make individual power curve to it. A steering system with build-in hygroscope might also help. Controls The car is controlled via RC radio. The whole system is very similar to RC car setup. 3S Li-Po is used for power, it powers controllers for driving motors (called Wixy). The controllers provide the power to Buwizz motors by a signal of receiver. The model is steered with 2 x GeekSevo, though one would be enough here. To see a detailed description of the system, see here: Conclusion The Wilde Beast was a great research project for me. I tried to replicate a real e-car layout and my goal was achieved. Car is very fun to drive, but the driver needs to pay a careful attention to the road. The main problem of the car is the lack of the e-brains which would allow to calibrate the driving motors... P.S. I will definitely make another car with same chassis on smaller wheels to reduce the load on motors. -
PSA: this model features a number of custom parts made with Stud.Io Part Designer. They do not exist in real life, and were made as a proof of concept for this particular model.
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Custom Pneumatics and Air-powered Motors Idea
powerwindows83 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello all! I don't know if this is in the right place or not, but it's quite an outlandish topic so I'm gonna assume this is right! The pneumatics system has gone through many part additions and changes over the decades. One component that never showed up is the hydraulic motor. Now, I'm aware that hydraulics and pneumatics are very different things, but the operational differences would fade in higher speed applications. What I mean by that is if there were to be a very high speed (due to the differences in how air and liquid drive these motors) gear type or axial piston type motor for example, and you coupled them to the existing planetary gear trains found inside most PF motors, the results in theory would be fairly decent torque and roughly normal lego motor speed inside of a roughly lego motor-sized housing. So why haven't they done this? And how come no one else has done it on the internet so far as I've seen? I know you can make rotary motion using pistons in an "engine" application, but that method has some obvious limitations barring it from actual use in an MOC usually due to size and/or switching inefficiency. Let me know what you all think of this as an idea, and fill me in if you know why this wouldn't work in practice if it doesn't! -
Good evening cognoscenti I am working on a (roughly) 1:12 MOC of a Massey Ferguson 6716S tractor, and need a bit of help with getting some custom / 3d printed rear wheels. For the front wheels I'm using the Claas / 6x6 tow truck tyres 23798 with light grey six spoke 15038 56mm D x 34mm wheels (although loader style solid wheels would be better if i can find some). For the rear i have bought some RC4WD ZT0129 2.2" mud basher tyres (https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=401784), which fit pretty neatly (with a bit of fiddling) onto the Porsche rims 23800 62.3mm D x 42mm. However, I would really like to get some custom or 3d printed wheel loader style (ie solid dish) rims with an axle connection, six pin holes and a more neutral offset to match the real tractor for the reat tyres. Any recommendations on whether anyone has already made such a wheel, or who could make one? I have already had a look at the third party tyres for technic rims thread, but not found quite what i am after yet. It would be even better if i could also get solid dish loader style wheels in 56mm D x 34mm to go on the front. I think the simplest fix would be a combination of the Porsche rim and a solid dish. However, a neater solution would be to mimic the 'beadlock' arrangement that the RC models use, but make in lego technic - ie a main dish & rim, a slide on collar, and a locking rim (which pins the tyre in place against the slide on collar and the main rim) held in place with eg 6no 3/4 pins (RC beadlock uses tiny screws here). beadlok by hpil 102, on Flickr# Creating a beadlock type technic wheel would then open up a whole range of RC wheels fitting better onto lego (or lego compatible) rims... So, any suggestions of offers to create some 3d printed rims for me? hpil -
Third Party Elements - Your Opinion
legostarwars1425 posted a topic in Minifig Customisation Workshop
Okay, so if you have ever looked up "Custom LEGO pieces" you find some cool parts. I was wondering if anyone has tried making their own, and out of what material? Does PVC release bad chemicals? Was it hard or time consuming? And most importantly, what are your opinions on third party pieces like brickarms, brickforge, brickmania, Crazy bricks arms and cactuses, etcetera? I have not tried too many custom pieces so far. So, that being said, I am interested in your responses. I did another one, like this, so here is the link to the original: Thanks in advance, Legostarwars1425 -
I was sure that I've already shared it on weekend, but seems that it was lost ... I've published a book with a complete set of table about the Austrian army during Napoleonic wars. Base for that were the decal set I started years ago on the base of Mosana's designs. They get a complete relaunch with all the necessary changes to be as historical accurate as possible representing the different Austrian Units. See here the decals used for the Austrian Landwehr and partly a s base also for other units: . The 2nd topic were all the custom hats and helmets for the Napoleonic times where the first item ever done in the 3d printing technology was started here after a longer discussion how the rare shakos can be recreated with other means. The 3rd part were all the renders I can do now with LDD, LDD2povray, stl2povray and povray. During Christmas I recoded a bigger part so that doing these tabels with figures in diferent positions can be done more easily. See one of the results here (Hungarian insurrectio troops): Finally I have added some textual clue mainly referencing some historical or military explanations (with references to the text in Wikipaedia) resulting now in the book published by tredition.de .... Since a lot of topics and techniques created for this book were first discussed here I want to thank all the member which have contributed with their ideas ... Woody64
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Custom 40.5mm x 10.5mm wheels + tires
jamesonk83 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello, I have created a better scale tire & rim for trucks and light industry vehicles with a proper rim offset. The proportions allow for dual tire mounting and single. Is there any intrest within the community to have something like this produced? (in low volumes) I would look forward to hearing any insight/ feedback - purists need not respond! :) The tire would be a flexible rubber like material, rim would be SLS printed or ABS. -
I've just finished the last of the ME Models track parts in LDraw: R40 + R56 + R72 + R88 + R104 by Duq, on Flickr The available parts are: 8x2 Connector (for curves) 8x3 Connector (for straights) 8L Straight rail 32L Straight rail R56 Curved rails (Inner & Outer) R72 Curved rails (Inner & Outer) R88 Curved rails (Inner & Outer) R104 Curved rails (Inner & Outer) I've also created 'shortcut' parts for complete sections of each of the curves as well as the two straights. All parts are available for download from Github. ME Models Half Length Track by Duq, on Flickr
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As you likely know, I have been fabricating custom rods for lego steam locomotives. Now I have great news for the digitally inclined steam engine builders, I have just added LDraw files for most of the common custom rods listed in my store. Ronald 'Duq' Vallenduuk developed the LDraw part design and subparts for his own use (e.g., here) based on the physical rods. He has graciously allowed me to share these files. I've merely expanded his template to use my own naming scheme and include many of the rod designs I've fabricated. You can find examples of the physical rods here and the LDraw files here. I'm planning on adding less common rods soon and then eventually the valve gear bars. Make beautiful virtual models and be sure to visit Duq's Flickr page or Bricklink store.
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[full gallery] I have modified the locomotive from the Lone Ranger, Constitution Train Chase (Lego set 79111) to add working driver rods. I had to completely rework the pilot to make everything work, but I think the final design is pretty good. The new model is the same width as the original, one stud longer, and it has working rods. The mechanicals are packed in very efficiently. The front wheel just barely clears the cow catcher, the side rods just barely clear the crossheads, I came up with a clever bearing to fit over the moving pilot axle, etc.. With the moving rods I think this engine is shaping up to be pretty sharp. A larger tender would be nice, and one of these days I'll take a stab at that. The one tradeoff (and I'm not sure it is much of a tradeoff) is the fact that I had to convert it from a Ten Wheeler to a Mogul. Here's a shot of the modified engine on a curve I've prepared instructions for the modification and have already uploaded jpegs to brickshelf (I'm working on finding a good home for the .pdf version). There are two versions of the instructions: V1 is for building the modified model from scratch, V2 is for retrofitting the completed model after it has been built. To build this modified model you will need the parts that come with Lego set 79111 and the additional parts listed on the last two pages of the instructions. Note that this build requires 4 non-Lego pieces for the driver rods, available here. [full gallery]
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As I mentioned in my post about the GN S2 MOC, I have slipped one step further down the Lego purity slope and made my own ladders. (click on the image or here to see the full gallery) You can see examples of the short ladders clipped on at the front of the tender and the long ladders clipped on at the back of the tender. If you look closely at the ladders on the front of the tender, you will see that the surface is matte (they will not be mistaken for shiny bricks), but some of the lego bars have a similar matte surface. The spacing between rungs is similar to the lego bars, but I've made the holes square instead of rectangular. Probably not something a minifig would want to put their foot in. I think the dimensions look a lot better for my rolling stock and it is definitely a heck of a lot easier than trying to do a brick built version. This past week I've retrofitted one of my earliest MOCs with the new ladder- original in back and new in front. Click on the image to see more, including the smaller ladder on the other end of the car. I like the proportions a lot better. After doing this change, I see a lot of other tweaks that I will do to the boxcar, e.g., using grilled cheese bricks for the running boards leading to the ladder, removing the buffers You can see photos of all four sizes that I've fabricated so far here. And for those of you who want to be tempted down the purity slope, you can do so here. Enjoy!
