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G'day from Australia everyone! This is my first topic created on Eurobricks and my first serious MOC since the end of my "dark age". I'm seriously super glad to be here and keen to share my Technic creations with you all from now onward. With this in mind, if there's any way I can improve how/what I post, by all means let me know so I can keep everyone (including staff) content. I am committed to giving this site the full respect it deserves. :) As a few of you have suggested, it's a good idea when coming out of your dark age to develop designing/building skill by drawing on other people's MOCs for inspiration and guidance for different building techniques... Partially inspired by SevenStuds' recreation of Tim Cameron's rock bouncer "Showtime", I present my own 4x4 Rock Bouncer. Features.. Drive: 2 PF XL motors (1 per axle). Final ratio is 3:1. Steering: 1 PF Servo motor with rack and pinion Suspension/axles: Full-time locked solid live axles with portal hubs (geared 3:1), suspended by 9.5L shock absorber (soft) (2 per axle) and stabilized by a double triangulated four-link setup. Tires: Third party scale RC tires similar to the "Rock Crusher" by RC4WD. Battery: 1 x PF AA battery box Receiver: 1 x PF V2 I initially began designing some kind of rock crawler which was to include PF XL motors, third party tires of some description and (after quite a while researching suspension design) double triangulated four-link suspension. This kind of suspension is ideal as it provides maximum articulation and strength of the axle while eliminating the requirement for a Panhard Bar or Watts Linkage because the triangular positioning of the upper and lower control arms oppose each other, eliminating sway and allowing all desirable movement. By far the most difficult part of designing was the requirement for a steering shaft which moved harmoniously with the suspension cycle of the front axle. Because the upper control arms are shorter than the lower ones, the angle of the axle relative to the chassis changes through it's cycle and this means that when positioning the steering shaft, it must be such that the radius of it's motion doesn't change (due to angle change) as TLG doesn't offer any part which works purposely as a slip joint to negotiate the effect of plunge. After many, many, many... many attempts, a sweet spot was discovered which offered a negligible discrepancy. (This was a happy moment). It's biggest performance drawback would have to be that when the angle of climb and drive torque applied is too great, the rear lower control arms buckle and the rear axle begins to walk under the chassis. Trust me, it's cringe-worthy. With 15L beams instead of 16L links and consequently different suspension geometry, however, this could be resolved. The turning circle also suffers due to the wheel base. Overall, I am reasonably happy with the final product as it is capable of most of the things I intended it to be and in my opinion, the body could look worse. ;) I unfortunately don't have video footage, but I do have photos (see below). Enjoy! All comments welcome. :D
Now not to be confused with this thread here (Third Party Tires for Lego Technic Rims by Efferman), This Thread is Different in the Sense that I developed LEGO Modification instead of just wheel swapping. Now it is RC Tires Mods for Lego Technic Axles. Here below is a Rubber RC Tire. The Wheel does not fit over Lego Axles to begin with. Its hard to tell from picture but trust me the hole on the RC wheel is too small to fit around the LEGO Axle. And that is where the First Modification begins. In this picture Below is the aftermath of the first Wheel Modification. Now because I live in U.S and measurements are defined in standard I'm using a 3/16 drill bit to make this hole which is 4.7 mm for those who know metric.I used a Drill Press for a center and aligned hole for it. Just take Note that the Drilled Hole is little smaller from the patented LEGO Technic Hole so the Lego Axle will have nice tight fit with it naturally if you use a Standard drill bit to do this. Now Once the hole was drilled my next step was attaching it to LEGO Axle Bushing. This is where the Challenge is because I needed to somehow fix this Axle Bushing inline with the Hole. Now I made this LEGO Wheel Stand here to fix the Lego Bushing inline with the RC Tire. I placed the busing on top of the Axle to show you what it looks like with out the tire. With the Tire sitting level on the Lego Part, I used Super Glue for a quick bond between the LEGO Bushing and the RC tire. Now the Super glue is just there to make a nice initial bond. The real Holding bond will be done with JB weld filling in the 12mm Hexnut wheel mount. Take note that the Pictures Below are with out the Lego Bushing and only relying upon the natural hold between the tire and the axle. I took these pictures because there will be plenty of pictures when the RC Lego Tire Mod is finished.
Hey everyone, Here is a new rendition of a crawler I built years ago. Re-did the whole model in the old, first generation slotted pins www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=115080&hl=molds and also used a variety of other methods to strengthen the model. Check out my mocpages for more information. http://mocpages.com/...hp/422162����It is a little bit of a read but I think well worth it. Quickly, the goal of this model was to make it strong enough to really utilize all the power PF XL motors provide. I think often we get caught up in complaining that they are too weak.... when actually, I think they are fairly strong, slow, but strong. I think the real problem with lack of power in some builds is simply not using the power effectively. A lot of power can get lost in bad Technic connections and /or the axles. Regular video: Blooper video: http://youtu.be/b_lgMkH-zKO