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Found 171 results

  1. BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - BuWizz 3 (basic support) - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors - Sequences (like for flashing light) BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
  2. Hello everyone! Before I start I want to wish all of you to stay healthy, survive and win the disease! Today at my birthday I decided to share with you my latest MOC. This is a brand new Liebherr LR 11000. From the previous model, it took only some boom sections and proportions. The chassis and superstructure built from nothing and were rebuild several times. Below please let me share with you some dry specifications of the model: - Crane is about 2 meter high - weights 5 kg - requires at least 5 big battery boxes for been fully operated - can be managed by 3 sBrick units. - has 10 PF motors (4 are in the chassis) - Has 9 pneumatic cylinders + a pump - Has a full-size V6 diesel fake engine like the real crane - Has 6 winches, 3 of them are installed to the boom like in the real crane, but none of the motors are on the booms. - Crane is able to assemble and disassemble back from horizontal to working condition without any human help. - Has 4 pneumatic features, three of them are operated from the cabin, two of them are operated from the operators work seat Now is hte time for it's features: - Driving and steering - one XL motor per each track. Torgue increased 1:25 - Slewing by 2 M motors - L Motor for SA Frame winch - L Motor for the Main boom winch - M motor for the luffing jib winch - M motor for the secondary hook winch - L motor for the main hook winches - Pneumatically adjustable operators cabin - Pneumatically adjustable derrick counterweight horizontally - Pneumatically adjustable derrick counterweight vertically - Pneumatically rising chassis for (dis)assemble. - L motor for the pump and V6 engine - Individual Sbrick custom profile - 3 Pair of lights: - Front LED - Cab LED - Main hook winches LED Here is the link to photos, I'll post some directly here: Bonus: Here is the performance of the superstructure stability without boom and without counterweight(!), only one battery box insalled for fotors activity. Boxes are full with batteries (24 pcs) Easy to fix the front suspension: 1,5 kg load. Please enjoy and feel free to ask any questions.
  3. Hello everyone! This is my latest creation. ICARUS Supercar Introduction The name comes from a man who desired to fly higher using his technology. Many times I have tried to realize the speed what supercar MOC should perform. I needed “wing” called buggy motor, but all I had is a bunch of PF motors. So I connected motors together using “wax” called SBrick. Like Icarus of Greek myth, higher speed and torque may be lethal for the model itself... The result is here in the video! Weight: 1760g Propulsion: 4x PF L motor for rear wheel drive Steering: PF Servo motor Front and rear lights: 2x PF light Powered by: 2x SBrick and 2x 8878 rechargeable battery box Features: independent suspension for all wheels working steering wheel manually adjustable rear spoiler opening doors, hood, engine cover, glove box Drivetrain You may think it is not fast enough, but for me it was a relatively success. Surprisingly, gears and CV joints have never damaged or popped out even at the time of maximum acceleration. Although I had designed its drivetrain carefully, I was not sure if small bevel gears in differential withstand the load. Two 20T bevel gears of each side divide the load from differential equally. In this setting differential doesn't move back and forth easily. That means differential and 20T bevel gears hardly ever disengage. So they keep rotating smoothly even under high load. In this MOC there are three L motors (and two SBricks, two battery boxes, bunch of wiring) on the supposed location of V8 engine. So if someone build manual version with gearbox, there would be enough room for it. Body design As expected, building 1:10 scale supercar was very hard. Especially the body work. I've built one three years ago, but it was primitive MOC in every way. New MOC is heavily inspired by modern McLaren supercars. I tried to build their curved shapes using rather technic panels than flex axles. Front and rear light section happened to become different from the original mainly because of the positon of LED. Though finished model is not a copy of P1, I am happy with the result of realizing proper mid-engine proportion. Building instructions: http://rebrickable.c...icarus-supercar I hope you like it!
  4. squall87

    [Moc] The Lego Fire Station

    Hi everyone. I show you my project of a fire brigade barracks. The first three renderings date back to March 2016. It took me a few months to recover all the necessary pieces. Over time there have been several changes, including the addition of a courtyard with several other small buildings and a maneuvering castle (the building that use firemen to practice). The original idea was to replicate an existing barracks located near where I live, in fact, soon the project was transformed into something certainly simpler trying to bring together in the same building an office area and a car storage area. Currently I'm working (through 2) to version 3.0 of the barracks, you see the first renderings in the last two photos in this topic. Version 2.0 was made with the use of a Sbrick, I leave videos demonstrating how it works. And next next step... Fire Station 4.0 powered up by PFX Brick. Fire Brigade by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr Fire Station by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr Fire Station by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr Fire Station 3.0 by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr Fire Station 3.0 by Ario Gaviore, su Flickr
  5. Hi everyone Last weekend the Bricking Bavaria 2022 took place in Fürth, Germany. LEGO builders from around Europe travelled to Fürth to show their models. This year large cranes, lang heavy load transporters and even a technic locomotive in scale 1:17 were shown. It was really inspiring to meet other builders and learn about their building techniques, concepts and how their model work. For all people who had not the possibility to come to BB22 I cut a video with as many models in action as possible.
  6. hi all. i recently decided on buying an SBrick to compliment my 12 existing lego PF motors. but.... i was exploring their website to find out more about the SBrick, and went to the (support hub) section, clicked on the SBrick and scrolled down to (technical info) and it gave me this information Casing material: ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) Operating temperature range: -20°C – 60°C Operating voltage range: 3V – 5.5V Maximum continuous current total: 500mA Maximum continuous current per channel: 500mA Range: up to 50 meters. It depends on the controlling device, the SBrick’s distance from, and the electrical properties of the ground, and the orientation of the unit. Deep “null” areas might exist closer to the SBrick than the maximum range. what i dont understand is how can the operating voltage range be 3-5.5 volts if you're supposed to power the SBrick with a PF battery box (they suggest this), that contains 9 volts? so im worried that if i buy an SBrick that its not going to have enough output power, compared to the IR receiver i use. so my questions are 1: can someone who has bought an SBrick in the last 1-2 years, please tell me what the output voltage is when powered by a PF battery box containing 9 volts? 2: would u still recommend buying an SBrick? 3: and is this information above, correct?
  7. Hello all, I'm glad to introduce my project I spent approx one year to work on. Those who follow my railway MOC model topic here, on Eurobricks, should be familiar with my work, and could know I do own a big station with additional storage yard (fig.1.) to store all my long, 1:45 scaled railway models. Fig.1.: My train station in BlueBrick layout software 1. Why and what? My station displays a renovated mainline station - not a dedicated one, just a station, which looks quite average on refurbished Hungarian double-track lines. A modern station comes with working light signals - and this need started my project. I owned two completed mainline signals back in 2013 (fig.2.), using polarity reversal bricks to switch four pairs of modified PF ledlights (modification allowed that only one of the ledlights turned on, depending on the applied voltage's polarity, this modification was nicely described be Viktor Péter Kovács in RailBricks #9). These signals were operated by hand, both turning them free and red after trains, which could cause a lot of error, leaving them accidentally free after a train passed. Also my station needed 5 entry signals, 11 exit signals and one shunting signal for my storage yard. It is easy to see, that without some automatisation these can't be handled light by light. It is important, that my project is about making a system which handles my station, giving play experience by setting routes and managing train traffic, but it is not about automatisation of the trains. Train drivers should drive their own trains (9V, PF, PU, custom) according to the appearing signal aspects set by the "station driver". Fig.2.: My old signals - both of them powered with two pairs of PF ledlights. 2. The real life prototypes Before continuing, I need to explain the Hungarian signalling system in short - and also the logic behind it, and the difficulties it causes. Excluding any branchline special signals, focusing on mainline block signalling, there are two types of signals - main signals (red-white-red pole, they give a speed order to pass and forecast for next main signal) and repeat signals (yellow-white-yellow pole, forecasting only if the corresponding main signal is free or not, these are used where the tracks' curvature doesn't give enough distance to note the signal aspect of main signals). Three colours are used - green, yellow and red. Red always means to stop, giving no forecast of the next main signal. Yellow allows to pass at the maximum speed permitted for the train by other conditions (track, vehicle), forecasting next main signal will be red. Blinking yellow allows to pass at the maximum speed permitted for the train, forecasting next main signal will be allowing passing by 40 km/h (speed for normal switches in turning direction). Green indicated to pass at the maximum speed permitted for the train, the next main signal will be also allowing passing by maximum speed permitted for the train (so it forecasts next main signal being yellow, blinking yellow or green) Yellow-yellow (two lights) allows to pass with the maximum speed of 40 km/h (implying some switches in turning direction will be ahead), next main signal is expected to be stop. Yellow-blinking yellow allows to pass with the maximum speed of 40 km/h, next main signal will allow also passing by 40 km/h. Yellow-green allows to pass with the maximum speed of 40 km/h, next signal will allow maximum speed to pass by. As you look at my track configuration, you may see, that all these variations mentioned above should be considered when putting ledlights to my signals. Fig.3. shows my station with installed signals and the secured neighbouring blocks. This signalling logic also means, that I should know if zero, one or two sections are free after a main signal, including the route (turning on points, or not). Fig.3.: Shematic track layout of my station including the neighbouring signalling blocks, too. 3. System components Why are the neighbouring openline tracks considered? When I allow a train to leave my station (setting a free exit signal for it) it should mean that at least the first section is free and no other train is there. So I should have control over that section - detecting trains entering and leaving them from both direction. Train detection was also needed to turn the signals automatically back to red when a train passed, reducing the chance of accidentally leaving them free by manual operation. I chose the products of SBrick mixed with LEGO-elements. SBrick offer very nice, Bluetooth-controlled light hubs (SBrick Light), which can control 24 independent channels or 8 RGB channels, changing light colours. Since I didn't need the RGB-option (different colours are at different points in the real signals), I could use all the 24 channels of each hub (and since my signals needed 3 or 4 lights each and I have 24 of them, it was quite useful). The other SBrick product, the "+" smart brick can handle inputs and outputs - only for the Power Functions era. But besides train motors, technic motors, ledlights the PF-era had two types of sensors and I used the distance/moiton sensors to detect trains. These were never really put into commercial, the WeDo 1.0 elements were available for schools for education purposes. Fortunately Bricklink and eBay had them... And all these inputs (distance sensors) and outputs (SBrick light ledlights, PF M-motors to set points) are connected through the surface called SBrick Pro. I connect to the SBrick hubs with my PC, running the code simply from browser. You can write all your code on this surface, using some Scratch-based language (before this project I never did any programming). You can add scripts to different events (like if the distance sensors' values change, on stratup, pressing virtual buttons you added to your "remote control"), writing texts, and of course, managing the outputs. Each physical ledlight, motor or sensor is paired in the code with different variables (like strings describing the signal aspect, number values for distance sensor measurement, logical variables to store occupation of segments, etc). And yes, it took one year to write the code from zero (as I said, I never wrote any code before I started this project), collect the physical elements and building them into my layout. It was tested at five events this year, these events brought a lot of problems (and I had no option to test it before events since my layout is 11+ meters), but for the last event, our lugs annual exhibition at Martonvásár city (Hungary) finally it worked 2×10 hours at opening days without any major issue, so now I can finally proudly present it (fig.4.). Fig.4.: The remote control created in SBrick Pro for my station. I used the following components: 4 SBrick+ hubs + 2 WeDo 1.0 sensor on each 2 SBrick hubs + 5 PF M-motors on them 6 SBrick Light hubs + 88 SBrick leglights on them for different signals some PF extension wires 3 9V speed regulator to power SBrick+ and SBrick hubs from 230V AC. 4. How does it work? a) Setting a route Routes can be set selecting the big metallic buttons on the remote control surface (one button for each neighbouring openline section and one for each station track), while direction is selected with the top corner buttons (from left to right, or from right to left). If the route can be set (no occupied segment is involved and it is not conflicting any other existing route), the program: set the points via SBrick and PF M-motor, it virtually locks the points (no other routes can be set including the locked points), and after this sets the corresponding signals free. The buttons of sections involved in the locked route stay red. Removing a route (if you don't want it or the train already passed it) can be done with the bright blue buttons next to each route displayed the bottom left corner. Removing a route can't be accidental, for safety it requires "two-hand operation", keeping spacebar pressed while saying okay to the warning message. After this is done, a counter start giving safety time before the route and the switch locks get cleared. b) Motion sensors Sensors of WeDo 1.0 can detect objects in front of them from approx. 15-20 cm. For the largest distance they have a value of 10, while if you put something very close (<1,5 cm) it gives the value of 0. Since they are mostly placed 2 cm from the tracks (to make sure wide steams can also pass), a value of 3 is set at treshold value, if the value given by the sensor goes below this value it is counted as detection. For first, the code checks if a train is expected to be there. All sensors check one position, but trains could arrive from both direction, the sensors can't decide, which direction the train came from. The program evaluates the logic variables - direction set for the section, is any route set for the involved sensor and the neighbouring signal aspects - if it finds out that the train shouldn't be passing the sensor, gives a high pitch warning on the PC, and also resets any free signals back to red which would possibly let a train to the section where an another train violated the red signal. If the train is expected to be in front of the sensor, the signal belonging to the route and direction will fall back to red. After the train passes the sensor, there is a safety checking - seven detection cycles ran with timing, all should find the sensor value above treshold before saying the train really passed. If the automated looping mode is turned on (letting trains go through the station), after the train passed the sensor and clearence timer is also out, the cleared section's signal will automatically set free. All routes can be resetted in once with the bottom right bright blue button. This is necessary if some errors pop up, or someone passes a red signal - in this case to clear the error message reset must be performed. A reset has also a clearence time, and all sections' must be checked if they are occupied or not and this information is asked by the software. Setting a section clear is also a "two-hand operation" to avoid making a section accidentally free while there is a train on it. 5. Experiences a) Problems I used this setup on five different events from this year's April. At the first three events there were too much false error detections - these were related to bugs in the code. Sometimes the routine for checking a train started twice or more times thus leading to "redrunning" errors. To find out, where my code runs into a bug, I started to write some values on the remote and also making error codes and messages for different events to spot out my errors. Later I left this parts in, since now these error messages clearly can point out, where and what happened in a case of redpass. The varying width of different trains and setting sensor cycle time was also hard to do - I must deal with 12 wide steams (with rods) and sometimes 6 wide short sets. The steam engines always crashed into my sensors, so I put them more far away from the tracks, resulting in non-detection of 6 wide trains. And if the sensor doesn't catch a train at all, it will go on error at the next sensors, since it won't expect the train to be there, if the previous one haven't counted it before. The code issues have been solved, but I don't now what to do with different widths - at least at our own events we have train varyings between 8 and 10 studs of width, there are no oversized models and no original LEGO set trains. Also setting too frequent sensor value writing to variables lead to out of memory error, while setting it less frequent brought the possibility of missing short and fast trains. b) Play experience It is really nice to manage the traffic! When it finally started to work properly (at the fifth event), it was really cool to leave it in automated mode (it lets trains going through the station, and if a section get's free, it lets the next train) or set an ending or starting route for arriving and departing trains. The best part was BSBT 2022 in Schkeuditz, most of the participants really liked, that they need to drive their own trains according to the appearing signal aspects and not only following an another train as close as possible. :P I also created a loop-operation mode for myself if I'm not collaborating with someone else to create a layout. In this case the two group of block signals are logically connected, forming a third section between themselves (fig.5.), creating a double track loop, with four sections of each (three openline, one station section). Fig.5.: My Stadler KISS EMU on the outer loop, between two block signals. The inner loop's block signal gives one green, indicating that the following two sections are clear. You can note the SBrick Light hub and SBrick+ blocks in the middle, the WeDo 1.0 sensors on the sides of track, between the signals of the group. c) System components Bluetooth has is limitations, and pushing 12 different hubs to this project was quite overkill and unexpected even from the SBrick-team - but it works. For first I had many connection issues, it was really lucky moment when all the 12 hubs went online and connected to my PC, but later I found a "wizard" option, which seemed to be doing nothing, but after quitting from it all connections got resetted and all hubs went online instantly. So no more angry waiting, pairing and swearing at it. SBrick lights are really nice, they can be powered both from internal batteries or 230V AC with power supply cable, for a use like mine the plug-in power supply is preferred. The option of programmed handling of 24 different channels is superb. SBrick hubs are now well-known over the world, they do well, the SBrick+ hubs can handle the input, unfortunately the newer sensors have no more PF-connectors, so these SBrick+ hubs work only with the rare WeDo 1.0 units, it is quite a hard limitation. You can see my system in action in the following video: ...and I felt really honored to have a mention from @michaelgale and Enrico Lussi at their articles from BSBT 2022: Michael Gale's article at BrickNerd Enrico's article at BMR 6. Future plans The system will be fully done, when the P40 switches of FXTracks will come out and I can replace all my old R40 9V points to fancy new R104 ones (fig.6.). I am too lazy to motorize all my 9V points currently, and when I competely rebuild my layout to incorporate the new points I'll do the missing motorisation progress, too. Fig.6.: Comparison of my current layout using R40 switces (bottom) and the future layout with FX Tracks R104 switches (upwards). Your comments and critics - as always - welcome. Feel free to share your impressions! :)
  8. Hello! We are ethusiastic adult LEGO fans and we have developed this new remote technology ( We know that lego is not just a toy, but an expression of the passion of creation. We are very interested in your opinion! Once upon a time there was a group of LEGO fans that had a dream, namely the dream of not simply taking readily existing building blocks to create a new model, but rather to create something that would take the LEGO experience to an entirely new level. They started their journey half a year ago but in order to fully realize their dream they now need your support. Take a look at what they’ve achieved so far and play your part to help turn what was simply a dream six months ago into a reality today . What they have produced is the SBrick, a universal remote control unit that slots simply into your existing LEGO models and allows you to control up to 64 Power Functions® units using your smartphone or tablet. This is just one of the very many things it does (there is a full list of the features listed below). If you browse any of the LEGO forums worldwide, it soon becomes clear that this is something that this is something fans have wanted for a very long time and the good news is that this very product is here now.
  9. Hello everyone, let me introduce my latest creation. Ever since I get 42093 corvette I had an idea to disassemble it and use all this parts to create something playable and offroad capable. This 1:15 model of legendary F-150 truck was made with Power Functions elements and Sbrick for future truck trial competion or just for indoor fun (because of the weight (1250 g) I think this is not very competitive truck). It was a long project for me because of time constraints so I had started it before LEGO release their bigger one. This model has 4WD transmission with 2 L-motors driving each axle separetly (driving ratio - 3,5:1), servo motor for steering. Front suspension is independent double wishbone, rear is live axle with panara link. The model has openable doors, sunroof, hood and tailgate. Instructions in pdf were made in Stud io (my first experience with this software so it took a long time). Link for instructions: Also I created some additional color options with available parts. I hope to add instructions for those and the video with the orignal orange one later.
  10. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  11. Hello everyone! Since TLG released 76023, I had been waiting for affordable Technic set which includes so-called Tumbler Tires. So I jumped at 42050 Drag Racer. I also bought some extra tires separately, then revived old project which had failed three years ago. Avtoros Shaman 8x8 Building instructions: Rebrickable Weight: 2550g - 4x L motor for 8 wheel drive - 2x Servo motor for 8 wheel steering - M motor for switching steering mode (AWS and crab) - M motor for winch - 3x LED for front and rear lights - 2x SBrick powered by 2x 8878 rechargeable battery box - Independent suspension for all wheels - Working steering wheel - Openable hood, doors and roof hatch Back in 2013 As you may know, real Shaman is which can go through almost any kind of terrain. It has three steering modes and can scale 45-degree incline. On top of that it is amphibious. Seeing pictures and videos, I instantly fell in love with it.When I started the project, I was too ambitious to realize all features above. Sadly I could not build even steering mechanism while keeping all wheel drive and independent suspension. So I changed the project to building another 8x8 vehicle. It ended up as my Tatra 813 Trial Truck, but that is another story. Focus on characteristic features Two months ago, I suddenly came up with an idea that enables both normal AWS and crab steering. In the case of four-wheeler, you can do it by switching rotation of second Servo motor for rear axle. But in eight-wheeler like Shaman, you should change turning radius of second and third axle. In normal mode, the steering angle of inner two axles is smaller than outer axles. But in crab mode, all axles should be steered at the same angle. This is the basis of steering idea. I used the way of fixing/moving pivot of steering linkage. A: There are two 7L steering racks connected to 7L beams. Front rack is connected in the middle of beam, rear is one stud backwards. Both ends of beams are connected to steering arms of each axle. B: In normal mode, rear rack is fixed by 12T bevel gear. So the fixed pivot of 7L beam is its 5th pin hole. Which makes front end of beam moves twice as rear end does. That means the steering angle of 1st axle is twice as 2nd axle. C: In switching crab mode, 12T bevel gear moves one stud forward and fix front rack. Fixed pivot is 4th pin hole of beam. Which makes both ends of beams move equally. That means the steering angle of 1st axle is the same as 2nd axle. And there is one more twist. D: I put main steering rack (moved by pinion gear) on one stud forward of 7L beam's front-end (which means 9L beam’s front-end). Seeing from the pivot point, this rack is connected to farther than the point of front steering arms connected. So front steering arms always move slightly shorter than main rack does. When Servo fully turns 90 degrees, pinion gear moves the rack in one stud sideways. Steering arms move less than one stud. This was necessary for keeping CV joint (connected to steering hub) rotate smoothly even when fully steered. Challenge and compromise First of all, this MOC is NOT amphibious. It is too heavy to float. And because of driving motors of low position, chassis is not waterproof at all. So it is not recommended driving it through even shallow water pool. My aim was to achieve decent crawling capability. But I had to lower the bar because there was no room left for portal/planetary hub reduction. Without them, heavy load from 81mm tires directly goes to 12T half bevel gears. First attempt was using two XL motors geared 25:9. I put each motor for left/right side of axle. The result was unsatisfied. Even when climbing over small obstacles, bevel gears often slipped and got damaged. So I replaced them with four L motors geared 3:1. Each one drives a pair of half axles. Thanks to their good speed and smaller torque, new drivetrain proved to be more reliable. Although bevel gears were still slipping a bit, I accepted overall performance. The picture above shows two L motors for driving right side of axles. The power functions switch for changing rotation of rear Servo motor is synchronized with moving steering pivot mechanism. In crab mode, rear 4 wheels steer opposite the same direction as front wheels. As always I used few of non-Technic parts. Big roof tile was used for saving weight, curve slope parts were better choice for filling the gap. LBG axles sticking out the roof are visible indicator for steering mode. They are mechanically connected to switching mechanism. In the video you can see how they work. Instructions available at Rebrickable. Building it in red is possible by using red parts instead of white. I hope you will enjoy building!
  12. I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt
  13. Hello everyone. This is my second Tatra model.Comparing to previous Tatra 813 Trial Truck built in 2014, it is bigger, heavier and a little bit faster. Weight: 3810g Length: 62.4cm Width: 24cm Height: 25cm -Powered by 2 SBricks -6 L motors for propulsion -2 M motors for steering -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -Working steering wheel and V12 engine -Openable doors, front grill and roof hatch The model was specifically inspired by a unique truck of Jansa Team participating at real truck trial events. I tried to replicate overall look as possible without using any stickers. The cabin became one stud longer than it should be. Also using many system parts was somewhat compromising as a Technic builder. This time I omitted offset axles because symmetrical structure was more robust and efficient. Each side of half axles are independently driven via two parallel drive shafts. That enables slightly smoother turning than previous one adopted single drive shaft. Body parts are removable by pulling out both seats and two 5.5L axles behind the rear bed. When I completed the chassis early in 2018, it never came to my mind that LEGO would officially release "game changing" planetary wheel hub. Admittedly those bulky half axles using portal hub look outdated in 2019. The core of chassis contains bunch of L motors which I called 'Six Pack Abs'. The gearbox is simple yet packed 16 gears into tiny space between L motors. Although suspension mechanism is not like real Tatra, pairs of swing half axles move like real one. That realizes good off-road capability. The steering angle of 1st axle is twice as 2nd axle. Two hard-coupled M motors move 13L gear rack via dual pinion gears. For more powerful steering, I did not use white clutch gears. Consequently geared down motors keep rotating and make clicking noise when gear rack reaches end position. After all, this MOC ended up to be just a big truck driven by old technology. (Strangely it sounds like aged Tatra 813 in modern truck trial events...) Still I am happy with the result and sharing another massive 8x8 model. If you like it, feel free to put colorful stickers on it, make alternate cabin design or build more accurate chassis with new hub parts. Building instructions available on Rebrickable.
  14. Hey, Eurobricks! It’s been a long time. And for me it’s been a really tough time. Actually I’ve been suffering from anxiety disorder and OCD for a long time. It seems I can just handle it and not let it affect my life (which I did also for a long time) but things got out of control in the past few months. It’s the darkest time in my life and basically I lost interest in doing anything. God knows what I’ve been through. Luckily I got my family with me all the time. More importantly I didn’t do anything bad & stupid to myself. It is still a recovery process for me, but I think I’m well enough to pick up some unfinished LEGO projects, something I love to do, and something that will make me feel better. So today, I’m bringing you one of those projects - a LEGO version of the SHERP ATV. Parts count: 1374 pcs Weight: 1420 g Dimensions (Length x Width x Height): 232 mm x 195 mm x 178 mm / 9.13 in. x 7.68 in. x 7 in. Exterior I like this kind of compact vehicle, especially with massive tires. While building this model, I have a single goal for the exterior: full enclosure. It all started with the mudguard. I tried to use Technic parts to build the middle section but it’s nearly impossible to recreate the curves with no gaps. So sloped bricks become the best choice. To compensate a little bit on the extra “unnecessary” weight, the enclosure is also used as part of the gear housing. Drivetrain Instead of putting two identical motors on each side and making it skid-steer drive, I decided to make a drivetrain based on a subtractor. It made precise steering possible, and can be controlled one-handedly by Sbrick, which something I prefer when I drive the model while holding the camera on the other hand. This is a prototype: It’s a failed attempt. Knob wheels not only cause unsmooth power transmission, but also take the space of a 5x7 frame, which is supposed to be a sturdy housing for the lower differential. As a result, the lower diff got damaged from gear slipping after 5 minutes of test drive, the whole model couldn’t move completely. After several tests, I replace the knob wheels with 16-tooth clutch gears. it only introduces very little frictions and it’s very reliable. Here is the final version: Performance I made a short video (4K): More Details Hope you like it. Feels good to be back
  15. This is the first non-contest MOC that I have posted. It started out as @Madoca 1977's Baja Trophy Truck. I think I originally got as far as mounting the engine when I first started. As I only have the long shocks in soft, I decided I needed to redesign how the suspension worked. I also added all-wheel drive, which significantly complicated the front end. As well as kingpin inclination. I spent a good amount of time trying to get Ackermann geometry, but could not get anything sturdy. That was almost a year ago. I shelved this project. Then my wife got me the Porsche, Claas, and a second SBrick.. And this is the result. The main frame and roll cage are the most similar to Madoca's. Since I have taken these pictures, have redesigned how the battery boxes are mounted. They attach to the frame and sit much lower into the truck. It is possible to take off the bodywork and roll cage and drive. I redesigned the rear axle so that the power sent to the front was from both sides, so that one set of l-motors was not power 3 tires. There is still some clicking in the front, but only when not driven on a flat surface. I had to reduce the gear ratio to 1:1.667. The differential at the rear acts as an adder and sends power to the front differential, and fake engine. The rear wheels are still driven directly by one pair of motors, each. I could not figure out a way, without buying shocks, to suspend the rear axle on the smaller shocks and still have plenty of travel. Until I found some small springs in my junk drawer. I have no idea what their strength is, but they get the job done. At full compression and fully turned, the front tires will touch the body. The body itself comes off in 4 pieces: each side, roof/hood, and front bumper. More pictures can be found in my Brickshelf folder at: I will leave you with my favorite picture
  16. Hello! This is my new Moc: a Scania S730 tractor unit, in 1:17 scale. It was built during free time between march and october. It is full RC with an XL motor for driving, and Servo for steering, and a Sbrick to remote control. It has opening doors and detailed interior. On the rear axle there are pneumatic suspensions, controlled with a manual pump at the back of the cab. The model has a "showtruck" look when suspensions are raised: Stickers are self made, printed with different shades of white ink on black vynil. Tyre badges are directly printed. The most challenging part of the model was to create the steps to access the cabin... and the cabin itself! It is 18 studs wide (cab and front bumper), but the roof, on the front, is 17 studs. The wheelarches and sideskirts are 19 studs wide. The cab can be romoved, to access to the battery box. I'm considering put this model on Lego Ideas. I'm not able to make instructions so if somebody would like to build it, they must vote for it! (just joking ) A trailer is also under costruction!
  17. Hi, I bought s couple of sBrick plus some time ago, and used them in few MOCs. The last MOC was the Madoca's Avtoros Shaman. In that one I clearly see repeatedly the same two issues: -after 1-2 min of continuous use, the power output drops. If I keep using it, it keeps reducing until completely stop. -sometimes, there's a lag. I mean, in the Avtoros, there are 2 servos to control The 2 front and the 2 rear axles. Sometimes, the front axles turn (or return to original position) but the other 2 axles don't turn until I stop the vehicle. In all cases, the power supply are 2 battery boxes with full charged 2400 mA AA batteries. Any idea? Thanks in advance!
  18. Robust working 1:12 RC model of the 6x6 rocker-bogie mobility system used in Mars rovers Perseverance and Curiosity... Tons of play value. Works well over most neighborhood surfaces and terrains, but sometimes gets stuck in loose sand. What you put on top is up to you. NB: The NASA rovers are 6x6x4 platforms, with 6 wheels, all 6 driven, and the 4 corner wheels steered. At 1:12 scale, steering individual wheels with LEGO motors is out of the question. So this model is necessarily a 6x6x0 platform — but one with reasonably effective skid steering. Several years ago, made a pretty faithful working 1:12 model of Curiosity with more emphasis on visual realism than on mobility system performance. The current model vastly outperforms the old one... Purist alert: SBrick RC receiver, non-LEGO elastics used to suppress wheel spread.
  19. Hi everybody, I always wanted to make Madoca1977’s Baja Trophy Truck or something similar…. Well here’s my result. Now here you can see it in action…. I wanted to use buggy motors to drive the Baja buggy. (Unfortunately I only have 1 Lego Buggy motor, but for this model I bought 2 buggy motors from CADA). The front of the Baja Trophy Truck's chassis is the same as Madoca. The rear wheel drive is my own design. This also applies to the seats and cabin. The cabin is not as strong as Madoca's and also lacks the roll cage. I wanted to see if this model has a bit of speed and agility. As it turns out, I can barely drive the model because it is so fast. It drives on all kinds of terrain. The buggy drives fine with the normal 1.2 volt rechargeable batteries. But driving through the grass is a bit difficult. I once read a topic on this forum about lifepo4 batteries and thought let's give it a try. And to my surprise, it really drives everywhere like crazy. Topic "do-you-use-12v-or-15v-batteries" The buggy has : 1 Servo motor for steering 2 Buggy motors for driving (1 on each rear wheel) SBrick for control Battery box with 3x LiFePo4 and 3x dummy batteries (Work also fine with normal (reachable) batteries but has not much speed when driving through grass or very rough terrain) Building Instructions Nowadays I want to be able to rebuild my own models when I break them down, so I make a digital copy of the model. I always did this in LDD but since it is no longer updated I switched to It took some searching but now I am able to build the models and making the instructions is also easy. Here are some examples Since Madoca has provided his Baja Trophy Truck with free instructions, I want to share my Baja Buggy's instructions with everyone for free. Here you can find the Building Instructions and Studio file I'm not good at designing beautiful bodywork, but building this Baja Buggy has given me hours of building fun. Making the instruction toke me a lot of evening hours, but I like the result. Sorry for the experienced builders, the instructions are step by step as Lego does nowadays, this means that there are a total of 663 steps (about 500 pages). It is certainly not a professional design, there are some steps in the Studio file that do not fit completely, but it fits perfectly when building. Some work in progress Compare Here are some pictures showing the model compared to the famous 8466 4x4 Off-Roader and the 42110: Land Rover Defender. And a few renders of the Baja Buggy More pictures can be found here.
  20. I'm thinking of getting a Lego device that will give my models more power and allow me to control them outside and from long distance using my smartphone. As far as I am aware the best two options are BuWizz and SBrick, however I am not sure which option is best, as comparisons I have seen have never determined a clear winner. SBrick is way more affordable, more compact and seems to be popular in the Lego Technic community. I only learnt about BuWizz recently, it seems to generate an insane amount of power but it costs over twice as much as an SBrick and is bulkier, plus I already have 6 Battery Boxes and it would be a complete waste not using them. Of course they are both clearly better than the Official Lego PF IR Sensors I am currently using, which are god awful past a 2m range and are useless outside, however I would like to know people's thoughts, opinions and experiences to help me decide which is best value for money before I blow loads of cash on a toy. Currently I am leaning towards SBrick, but from what I've seen online, BuWizz looks like a viable option also. Cheers
  21. You’re stuck inside, we’re stuck inside Build us a B-Model to win an AWESOME prize! Whilst we’re all stuck inside we want to see what you can build with your LEGO pieces locked-down, whilst in lock-down! That means creating a new vehicle from only the pieces found within an existing official LEGO set. There are some incredible prizes on offer from the awesome guys at SBrick, the leading remote control solution in the building toy market, allowing you to control your models remotely using a smart device like a phone, tablet, gamepad, or even Chromebook, MAC or PC! The Rules Build us a B-Model from only the pieces found within a single official LEGO set. The set can be from any era or theme, including Technic, Creator, Town, Space, Pirates… everything except Galidor. You may also choose to use the pieces from two official LEGO sets if the RRP of each set was below $25. Photograph and upload your B-Model to Flickr, MOCpages, Brickshelf, or Eurobricks between May 1st and June 30th 2020. You must include the words ‘TLCB Lock-Down Competition’ or a link to this page somewhere in the creation’s title or description, so that we know you’re entering it. You don’t actually have to be in Lock-Down to enter, although do please abide by whatever the COVID-19 advice is in your country of residence. How to Enter If you upload your B-Model to one of the free-to-use creation-sharing sites above with ‘TLCB Lock-Down Competition’ in the title or description our Elves will find it. You can also contact us in the usual ways or post a message on our Facebook page with a link to your creation if you want to make sure we’ve seen it! You may enter as many creations as you like and the winners will be chosen based upon the designs that best meet our usual Submission Guidelines and our completely subjective opinions on what we think is cool. Prizes! Winner: SBrick Pro Pack; Includes SBrick Plus, Wire, 2x Lights, Servo, L-motor, Battery Pack, & colourful cases Runner-up: SBrick Starter Pack; Includes SBrick Plus, Wire, & colourful cases Legal Stuff TLCB Lock-Down B-Model Competition runs from May 1st to June 30th 2020 GMT, and no late entries will be considered. All entries must be your own work and be built and photographed during the eight-week competition. If you’re under the age of 18 you must get parental permission before entering the competition, as winners will need to provide TLCB and SBrick with their contact details. TLCB and SBrick are not responsible for any additional tariffs, taxes, customs, bus tokens, or traffic tickets your country may impose on you when claiming your prizes. Good luck to all our readers, and don’t forget you can join the discussion, ask questions, submit complaints etc. via the comments here at TLCB or via our Facebook page. You can find TLCB’s Facebook page here, SBrick’s Facebook page here, and you can read our 5-star review of the awesome SBrick bluetooth brick by clicking here. Stay Safe, and Happy B-Model Building!
  22. Hey guys, so I made a custom SBrick profile for an upcoming MOC and I need to log into the SBrick app to use it. I haven't really used the app for about a year now, and since then I had switched to a new device (iPhone X from iPhone 7). Today I tried logging into the app, but when I put in my email and password a popup says "login failed". I then changed my password and was able to log in with it in the browser, but in the app it still says "login failed". When I hit "connect with Facebook" a popup tries to come up but disappears almost immediately. I also tried creating a new account with a different email, but even that says "registration failed". At this point I feel like it may be a problem with the app rather than my account, as I figure it would at least let me register. I emailed SBrick at about the issue but not sure if I'll get a response from them. I wasn't able to find much help online regarding this either. Any help is appreciated