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Showing results for tags 'Sbrick'.
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Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr The Churchill AVLB (armored vehicle-launched bridge) has been one of my projects that I have wanted to see operational in Lego form. It is a rather unusual vehicle, as it's task is simple, no bridge, no problem, it brings a mobile bridge to where bombed out bridges are. There are many different bridge layers built in lego, though most rely on having power being routed to the bridge to unfold it. I wanted to replicate the original mechanics of the real vehicle because the vehicle utilizes a single large hydraulic cylinder to move the bridge into position. This cylinder is retracted for one full stroke to transfer the bridge, from the vehicle to at 90°, and then locks a lower carriage, and the cylinder extends for a full stroke. This mechanism is rather simple, but with the Lego system, this was a difficult challenge to solve. Lego's current array of pneumatics and linear actuators are too small and weak for this task, as I attempted to build this vehicle two years ago, but abandoned it, because two linear actuators weren't powerful enough to lift it. A custom brick-built linear actuator was utilized with a rack and pinion, powered by a L motor with a 1:24 reduction. This provided sufficient power to lift the ≈1kg bridge, though because of the length of the arm, the mechanism has to lift ≈9 kg. This required a robust design for the actuator, and it had to be rigidly connected to the hull. I am very pleased with the results of this model, and it performs great, and looks much better than my old Churchill VII. This is because I changed the spacing between the road wheels to 2.5 studs, instead of 3.This was the biggest issue with my old Churchill, I wanted to build another churchill, but build a different variant. I originally wanted to build a AVRE (armored vehicle royal engineers) with the spigot mortar, and small box girder bridge, thought that variant was too similar to the Churchill VII. I had thoughts of building the model at the same scale as Sariel's Churchill, as it would be a fun, compact build that could use linear actuators for the hydraulics. Though a larger scale version would be more of a challenge, and be more impressive, as the model can lift a 73 stud long bridge. This vehicle is based off of the hull of the Churchill IV, it has some minor external differences, the most noticeable is the crew hatches on the sponsons are square. One of the minor issues is that the tank is unable to cross the bridge, but that isn't a flaw with my model, it's just a lack of traction in Lego's tracks, maybe the rubber pads from the nexo nights would work, though It's inaccurate for most vehicles, as few vehicles had rubber tracks at the time, and it makes the tracks too bulky/expensive. This model may be my last model in light blueish gray, as I recently aquired a large purchase of DBG parts from Bricklink for future models, also this model used almost all of my light bluish gray tiles and 1x plates, for the bridge and sponson details. The old abandoned version from 2014 Lego Churchill Bridgelayer 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill Bridgelayer 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr lego churchill Bridgelayer 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Yes the bridge is strong enough to hold a variety of Allied armor. Lego Churchill bridge layer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr My next MOC to present, though college has arrived, and I have a lot of editing to do for that model. I have to figure out how to get unofficial ldraw parts into my parts library, as I want to do some renders of the internals, and make instructions... it's packed inside with stuff. -
Like I said in my last topic, I’m a big fan of Japanese cars. Today I’m bringing you a new MOC based on a popular off-roader. Inspiration & Goals This MOC was inspired by the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado series. I didn’t want to make an exact copy of the original car, but focused on the chassis and drivetrain. Also it should have a full-length body with five openable doors. Specs / Features / Functions Dimensions: 420mm(L) x 210mm(W) x 190mm(H) Weight: 2.1Kg Parts count: 2700 pcs Propulsion: PF XL motor x 2 2-speed gearbox Working steering wheel / headlights / taillights Rear alxe: live axle with diff lock Front axle has independent suspensions with positive caster angle. More Details Compromises & Inperfections 1. The model has about 2700 parts. Given the functions that I achieved, that’s a huge number. I was expecting it to be around 2000. 2. It is WIDE. Even with those beveled window frames it looks wide. (It is wide. The body covers the whole tyres from top view) 3. Gear ratios are 5:1 at 1st gear and 5:3 at 2nd gear(differentials not included). Safety fuse kicks in quite often when steering at full speed on 2nd gear(As shown at the end of the video). I have to use 9V AA battery pack instead of Li-Po and stick to 1st gear most of the time. 4. A real Land Cruiser Prado has central differential & central diff lock. They were on my prototype. Rear diff lock and central diff lock work simultaneously. But they are quite unreliable. 12-teeth half bevel gears inside the central diff got damaged after only a very short period of test drive. I have no choice but to remove them from the drivetrain. A short video showing the prototype: Anyway, I’m basically satisfied with the overall performance and looking. Building instructions will be ready in a while. Hope you enjoy! -
This MOC has been a long time in the making. It started about a year ago, when I saw a video by Sariel, called Leviathan Airboat. In that video Sariel speculated about the possibility of using LEGO sails for building an actual LEGO sailboat. At the time I thought that was a wonderful idea, except that I wouldn't use LEGO sails but my own custom sails. During the weeks that followed the idea of building a LEGO sailboat stayed on my mind, and soon after I started ordering parts from bricklink. There were some crucial components that were difficult to get, namely the sails and the Sbrick. Finally, when the MOC was done, the winter cold kept me from trying it out on the water. I have made two videos, the first is a simple video showing it in action on the water the second video describes the building process. Enjoy! Action footage: Building process: -
Hi all, This is one of my first MOC's after a dark age. I'm really excited about the sbrick, and though it looks like serious competition, I thought I would still enter and complete my project as a personal goal. We have a 1966 Chevy C-10 Truck on air ride suspension. Loosely based on a real 'rat rod' truck. The model is 'bagged' on air ride pneumatic suspension. 4 motor functions: 1. L for Drive 2. M for Steering 3. M for Air Pump 4. M for Ride height via air switch. I worked really hard on trying to get fancy with a transmission, but they are either too big for the limited space I have or just aren't robust enough. In my pictures you can see that I tried various setups based on some notable Technic builder's models. Ultimately, they just didn't function as smoothly as I had hoped. I did have fun building them though. :-) With the frame on the ground, and it being a short cab, I didn't have room to implement the transmission with PTO to control the air pump (as originally planned) so I'm scrapping the transmission and just simplifying so I can make the deadline. First Transmission 4 speed, using a small LA to shift And here is the LA installed on top: The shifting was rough and the resulting transfer to the wheels was sketchy at best. I tried a two speed robust from Sariel and also one of Sheepo's 4 speed compact transmissions that uses rubber band tension. Sheepo's transmission is really clever. I tweaked it and had modest success but overall it was too complicated for my model.The real truck was supposed to be a '3 on the tree' so i might work that in after the competition. Here we have slfroden's linear gearbox. It uses a large LA and works very well. It's just huge. It can fit sideways in my model behind the cab, but the height is 4 studs too tall. Also getting it transferred to the drive train seemed overly complicated considering the placement. I think in a future moc, i'll start with the transmission and build the car around it. The LA is under the M motor. It's a WIP at the moment so keep that in mind. I do have a servo motor, but I JUST built lucio switch's awesome white 4WD truck. It used up my two XL motors also so I planned to use the L motor I have to drive this moc. It's probably not enough, but being as it is a 'cruiser' with air ride suspension, it certainly isn't built for performance. Stay tuned for more body work and a video. Thank you for any suggestions or comments. -
My first MOC in far too long! It will be a Katipo spider, the NZ version of the Black Widow. Now on Rebrickable! Functions: Left legs - L motor Right legs - L motor Winch ("silk") - XL motor Jaws - M motor WIP shot: Final model! Katipo - 3/4 view by bachaddict, on Flickr Katipo - top view by bachaddict, on Flickr
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My latest MOC. Wangan Midnight Devil Z. Power: 2 RC motors and 2 88000 battery boxes. PF servo for steering and Sbrick for control. Full Independent suspension. Link to video -
Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr This model was a rather interesting challenge to build, as the independent suspension took up a majority of the internal space. It features all-wheel drive with differentials, traversing turret, and gun elevation. mounting the m motors for the turret was the most challenging part of this build, as they are placed in-between the first and second axle. This is also my first model to use an Sbrick to control it. Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car (SBrick) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
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Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr With all of the posts about the new Porsche set, this vehicle would be considered the Porsche or supercar of tanks (it's a tank destroyer), this vehicle was the fastest armored vehicle used by the Allies in WWII. It can travel at 55 mph (88 kph)... now that's not some lightweight sports car that packs a 1000 hp engine, this is a 19.5 ton AFV with a 9 cylinder 400 hp radial aircraft engine... and a high velocity 76mm gun. This impressive weapon allowed the Allies to combat the larger and later war German vehicles such as the Tiger II and Panther. It was known to be the most effective Allied tank destroyer fielded, with higher kill to loss ratios than other Allied tank destroyers. With my model I attempted to copy the drive train and focus on the aesthetics of the vehicle. The most challenging parts of the model would be the upper glacis (topmost armored plate in the front of the vehicle), as where this part met with the "cheeks" above the sponsons. I think a brick solution would have worked here, but I lacked the pieces to build it and all of the available parts wouldn't have been steep enough to work. The open topped turret was also a challenge, as everyone who builds with lego will know round shapes aren't easy. I decided to omit some features on the turret, as they didn't look correct and they effected the smoothness of the turret. The open top allowed me to use an interesting compact turret traverse/gun elevation unit that is rather compact and functions decently (I would like to add more reduction to the traversing gears). This was difficult to mount into the hull, as it is already packed with full-length torsion bars, the torsion bars are 10 studs long, this allows them to be softer for the light model. Overall I am pleased with the amount of SNOT work on the hull and turret. I think I replicated the model to the best of my abilities, though I wish more detail could have been added to the turret, as the massive breech guard limited the gun elevation, and took up lots of space. I also compared the model to the blueprints, and it seems to be mostly faithful to the real counterpart. The most impressive part about this model is the size, I was able to put most of the functions of some of my larger tanks into a footprint smaller than a 32x16 baseplate. I wish Lego made parts for radial engines, as it is very difficult to build a functioning one at such a small scale, as I wished I could have included that in the model too, The only case where I was able to mount one was in my M6 heavy tank. Another interesting engine that would be very difficult to replicate is the Chrysler multi-bank, a 30 cylinder engine mounted in later versions of the Sherman. I would like to sometime replicate that and put it in a M4A3E8 "Fury" tank. I had a lot of fun with the editing, my new photography backdrop makes it easy to clean up photos, just by adjusting the RAW exposure, you can get a pure white. It also rained today, so no outdoors footage, but I had some fun with photographing the model in puddles, as there are interesting reflections. Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr A comparison with blueprints, there are some minor perspective differences, but it is relatively close for Lego. Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr an underside shot... not too much here to see, but you can see how the swing arms alternate between half-stud offset, and full stud offset, this allows for a 5.5 stud space between road wheels. Also note how the left side torsion bar is leading in front of the right side. Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr A couple renders of the traverse/elevation mechanism, instructions for that will be comming soon. Lego M18 Hellcat turret traverse/gun elevation mechanism. by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M18 Hellcat turret traverse/gun elevation mechanism. by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr The unit markings for the Hellcat are from "Black cat" both of my cats were wandering around when I was filming. Lego M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer (Sbrick by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr IMG_1591 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Turret details IMG_1597 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr IMG_1601 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr IMG_1602 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Suspension Lego M18 Hellcat suspension by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
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I have always wanted to build a 8x8 or 6x6, I recently acquired 10 62.4x20 tires, so now I can get to building a multi-axle vehicle. I also purchased a Sbrick, this will allow me to control my models at a greater distance outside. So I wanted my first model with a Sbrick to be special. The M8 Greyhound is a light armored car, that is mainly for scouting roles and mounts a 37 mm gun for supporting fire. When designing the drivetrain, I wanted a functional suspension system, and differentials. I attempted to replicate the real setup with staggered differentials, but this failed as there wasn't enough space, so I was forced to use a similar axle setup of the Arocs, as this is rather compact, but because of the height of lego springs, this made it very difficult to mound more than one L motor. I initially wanted this to be powered by two L motors, with a 1:1 ratio between the driveshaft and the differentials. Because of the height of the suspension, the roof of the engine deck will be very close to the top of where the shock absorbers are mounted. This has created a very interesting challenge, The low profile of the vehicle severely limits the area where I can mount power function elements. My progress over my short easter break is shown in the images below, I won't be able to continue progress on this model until the end of April, as that is when college is finished. Real vehicle Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car WIP (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car WIP (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car WIP (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car WIP (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car WIP (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car WIP (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego M8 Greyhound 6x6 Armored car WIP (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
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I prepared this model for Brickworld Chicago couple weeks ago. It is quite playable on a table, and was a great show material. I build a slope with books and make it go up and down. The winter livery was due to limitation of available Lego pieces. However few stickers I made are based on my memories of a monument I saw in Russia, rather than pictures online. The model has 4 motors and Sbrick for smartphone control. RC functions: drive left and right track, turret rotation and gun elevation. Also the model features authentic Christie suspension. Video on youtube
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After the idea for the Sbrick contest was announced, I downloaded the app for ios. Even though I don't own a Sbrick ( I plan to buy one in a couple months), I felt like playing around with the controls and seeing if modifications would be possible with a file viewer. So after some messing around I found the images and created my own profile with a custom skin, it was based off of Sariel's and it has images for the controls that will match my [TC6] entry. Sariel's original profile Sbrick app custom skins by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr screenshot from Ipod 4th gen (part of it is cut off because the app recognizes it as a Iphone 5 Sbrick app custom skins by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr my new profile Sbrick app custom skins by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr screenshot from the app (I didn't really bother to create new images for the joysticks, I just changed the hue) Sbrick app custom skins by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Ok now onto modifying the profiles yourself. 1 download a file viewer for a IOS device, there are many different ones, I used Ifunbox to edit my files http://www.i-funbox.com 2 connect device to computer with Sbrick app installed 3 Open Sbrick app contents on file viewer 4 open documents folder Sbrick app custom skins by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr The profiles folder contains all the .json files for the setup of the profiles. The resources folder has all the images for the profiles 5 renaming profiles open profiles folder, and select the profile you want to rename. Then you can copy the .json profile to your computer, then open it with a text editor. Then change the names to whatever you want, then drag it back into the profiles folder in the file viewer. Sbrick app custom skins by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 6 creating new skins open up the resources folder in the documents folder Sbrick app custom skins by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 7 select all files from the resources folder and copy them to a new folder on your computer. 8 open up the files with a image editing software of choice, I personally prefer GIMP http://www.gimp.org/ 9 edit the photos or create a new image of the same size After editing the photos keep the original name of them and export them as a .png file, with some cases in gimp it has a bug where it will give a error message, but to solve this export the file as a .sgi and then reopen it in gimp and export as a .png 10 Remove the .png extension If this is not removed, the app will not use the files 11 place edited files back into the resources folder This will replace the original images for the profile you just edited, to back up the original files, just make a copy of the resources folder that you copied from to your computer and if you want to revert to the original skins in the app, just replace the new files with old ones. here's a video for just one file, I didn't bother to actually place the edited file back in the resources, but this covers everything else. (sorry no commentary I was using quicktime screen recorder). https://flic.kr/p/qiFBXB other thoughts I think it is possible to change the position of the joysticks or the skin. the coordinates for them are viewable in the .json files. the frame is where the image is located at in the corner. Sbrick app custom skins by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr It might be possible to customize the profile further, possibly by copying slider/ joystick from another profile into the new one. Though I don't know if this works so back up the .jason profile if you plan to do this as it may mess up the profile.
